JuniorB513

Hey guys,

I am new to this forum and i just recently bought an 04' Acura TL. I have always loved the body line of the 3rd gen TL and i finally own one. First, I just want to say thanks to everybody for the great feedback and support I have found on this forum on some of the minor issues that I have experienced with my recent purchase. Every time I do a Google search for different things about this car, this forum is the first to show up in the results. You guys have saved my ass many times and I thank you for that...

Second, I am in dire need of new brakes all around. I have been looking at the RB Performance (Racingbrake) slotted rotors and their performance pads as an upgrade to the front from HeelToe Automotive. I love the way they look, however, I cannot find any reviews on them. I am also in limbo about what to do to the rear. I am pretty sure braking power is 70% front/30% rear (or somewhere around that ratio) and think that those same rotors and pads in the rear is just overkill. I was thinking stock would be just fine back their, but would like some feedback on what you guys think. Keep in mind that I am never going to race this thing and it is just a daily commuter. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

DMZ

Like the back inside cover of my favorite magazine says every month:
HERE WE GO WITH ANOTHER RIDICULOUS MAD FOLD-IN!

After 100's of threads on this subject, is yours 5AT or 6MT? Enquiring minds want to know!

Since you're new here, you need to learn that the automatic and manual transmission versions of this car have different front braking systems so you need to let us know which one you have so what we know what to recommend.

Congrats on your recent purchase and welcome to the forum.
.

JuniorB513

It is an automatic. How much do they differ from one another??

Also, I am not really trying to get recommendations one those specific rotors, mainly the company itself. I have heard of the norms like Brembo, Stoptech, etc. and i have used Brembo slotted/drilled rotors on other vehicles that i have owned in the past. Wasnt too happy with them...

truonghthe

AT put down 210 whp and MT put down 230 whp (stock) also the MT is about 170 lbs lighter than AT. As far as brake goes don't waste your time on looks and whatever they told you, just go with centric blank (made by stoptech) and autozone Duralast Cmax pads. 04-06 TL AT came with single piston front caliper and MT came with 4 piston Brembo caliper.

Drei

iTrader: (2)

Save yourself some money and go for the Autozone Duralast Gold pads and rotors bro, can't beat that 3 year warranty

DMZ

Unless you drive like a lunatic, this car really doesn't need drilled/slotted rotors. I use a rotor that has black E-coat on the non-braking surface to prevent rust and corrosion and Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads. More than adequate stopping power. Save your money!
.
.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

The way a person drives does not dictate if they should get slots, drills or blanks. Honestly the surface finish is nothing more than an aesthetic choice.

You want to look at real feature. 1-piece RB rotors provide the best cooling on anything this side of a two-piece rotor. The material is heat treated for increased wear resistance (meaning less dust, and longer rotor life). The hubs have a reinforced casting...they are nearly impossible to warp, crack, or wear out without having a seized caliper or tracking on race pads.

We put a set of RB rotors on a Subaru Legacy Outback in 2003 and the car still has them on it today after more than 100,000 miles. Never did anything besides pad changes.

So rotors can make a difference...beyond holes and paint.

thoiboi

But the holes and slots in the brakes help decrease weight on the car no?!?

The last time I had some drilled rotors was some EBC rotors. They warped and cracked so quickly, I just went back to stock brembo rotors. I think money can be better spent elsewhere than poking holes in your brakes. But like MyHeelToe said, it's purely aesthetic especially since you're saying it's simply a commuter car.

JuniorB513

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Thoiboi-LMAO!! Save weight?? Maybe an ounce or so...

Now i wish i had purchased a manual. Didnt know they added different calipers to those and i also wasnt aware that there was 20 more whp added.

I think i may go with some type of look up front, but will definitely stick with blanks in the rear and go with some that have black E-coat on the non-braking surface...

Hmmmm... Decisions... Decisions....

truonghthe

go with blank unless you decide to do Auto X or SCCA circut race then go with slotted. Drilled/ slotted just for looks and offer no real benefit.

ExcelerateRep

I recommend looking into the Stoptech packages we have available. You can get a full set of rotors and pads for all four corners at a really great price. Stoptech rotors have an e-coating to protect against rust and corrosion which makes them a great choice for a daily driver. The Stoptech Street Performance Pads are also a great lower dust option compared to other aftermarket pads, and offer increased performance over OEM pads.

Acurazine Brake Packages - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

Will Y.

Once the brake discs are upgraded (even if just slotted), the SCCA moves the car out of the stock class and into Street Prepared against cars with lots of mods for Solo/autocross events.

I don't recall the Club Racing rules on brakes, though.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Racing is a different animal. And really many people running at the track run cheap blanks anyway since people just torch and destroy them with aggressive pads.

JuniorB513

Yeah thats what i ended up getting. Stoptech had a package of 4 slotted/drilled rotors and pads for 375.00 shipped. Even with blanks with an E-coating, i still saved money. I appreciate all the replies and hope they look good and perform/last longer than OEM...

ExcelerateRep

As long as they are bed in and installed properly, I bet they'll exceed your expectations!

JuniorB513

I sure hope so. I think that was my problem back when i was younger with the Brembo slotted/drilled. I never knew there was a proper bed in process that i had to do. Do you know of a link that i can go to for that specific kit for the proper way to bed them in?? If not, i am sure Google has something that i can find.

ExcelerateRep

Stoptech actually has a brake bed-in procedure written up on their website, as well as a FAQ section. You can read it in its entirety on their website:

Bed-In Theory

"For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between."

truonghthe

Before doing anything make sure you have a Torque wrench to torque all five nut with 75-80 Foot pounds (this prevent rotor run out create warp do to material does not get deposit evenly).

bedding as follow.

1. BEFORE bedding tap your brakes mutiple time (gently to avoid thermal shock to your rotor).

2 starting from 60 mph stomp on the brake (not too strong to get ABS involve) until your car NEARLY came to a stop (but DO NOT let your car come to a stop) and let off the brake pedal COMPLETLY and acclerate.

3. Accelerate back up to 60 mph and repeat step 2 for 8 - 10 times.

4. After you done drive normal and try to go on the highway or somewhere you can minimize using the brake for awhile allow the rotor to cool off.

Notes: It's normal to smell pads and see material being deposit on the rotor.

JuniorB513

Awesome!! Thanks for the help guys. I will follow these steps verbatim!! I will keep ya posted on them and maybe post pics if i can by then, considering i am still new to this forum...

truonghthe

ExcelerateRep

We look forward to some pictures!

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

DIMPLED and slotted are the best, or just slotted. Slotted are actually functional while drilled are subseptable to cracking (rare and more than often on cheap rotors), but drilled was a think of the past and really just for looks.

I run hawk and stop tech as well as sell them. Never run a cheap rotor, they will warp in 5k miles and i've seen them crack from heat/excessive use etc….

BRAKES ARE YOUR LIFE, do it right the first time. check out the link below for packages and options as well as all of your other car needs.

94eg!

Centric High-Carbon blank rotors for me. Any part number starting with 125. They are the same upgraded alloy & casting as the Stoptech's but without the costly slots or holes. Pair them with Centric's 309-series Stoptech compound pads for performance or 106-series Posi-Quiet-Extended-Wear for longevity.

Perfect fit and price. I've used PartsBoss.com because they have free shipping over $75, and they are an authorized Centric dealer on the Centric website.