Sub in Rear Deck Question
06-27-2004 | 12:53 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 417
Likes: 0
From: Edmond, OK
Sub in Rear Deck Question
Hey im an audio noobie. I was thinking about replacing the sub in my deck and was wondering if I got 1 infinity 10" kappa perfect sub, would it fit in the read deck? I dont want an enclosures in my trunk or anything and would prefer for everything to look stock. Im also thinking about replacing the speakers w/ all infinity kappa perfect speakers and was wondering about the center channel? what kind of speaker is it? Its an odd shape and I would have to open the dash to look but can anybody just tell me off hand?? Thanks!
06-27-2004 | 01:15 PM
#2
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 1
From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by EggrollXpress61
Hey im an audio noobie. I was thinking about replacing the sub in my deck and was wondering if I got 1 infinity 10" kappa perfect sub, would it fit in the read deck? I dont want an enclosures in my trunk or anything and would prefer for everything to look stock. Im also thinking about replacing the speakers w/ all infinity kappa perfect speakers and was wondering about the center channel? what kind of speaker is it? Its an odd shape and I would have to open the dash to look but can anybody just tell me off hand?? Thanks!
Same thing here... can someone help? And also.. i see myself having to put the volume level at 30 everytime to listen to it, and even hard at times when on the road with windows open.. I feel my dadss 1997 Escort is louder. will the changing of speakers do it good? And watt size is the stock sub? I am asume putting a new one, will demand more power.... does our system provide this power?
06-27-2004 | 05:11 PM
#4
Not a Blowhole
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 3,045
Likes: 33
From: Virginia
I am an EE. And no bass addict - I keep the sub level at +2 or lower to avoid groos distortion and bass boom. To help answer your question, I would need to know:
1) The sensitivity of your proposed replacement speaker (SPL 1w/1meter in dB)
2) The nominal impedance of the existing woofer.
3) The nominal impedance of the replacement woofer.
4) The low-pass crossover frequency of the sub to mid drivers in Hz.
If the sensitivities of the OE vs. replacement are very different, you may not be able to get adequate output. Also, if the replacement has a low nominal impedance, you run the risk of overheating the bass amp due to excessive current. One would also need to know the low-pass, as the frequency may be higher than the replacement's frequency response, which would leave you with a glaring hole in the lower midrange.
I have the equipment to do these measurements, but I doubt many audio shops do. Point is, you may end up with bass out the wazoo, but you may muck up the linearity of the frequency response, which would change the carefull tuned stock system. IMHO, that would be a bad tradeoff.
1) The sensitivity of your proposed replacement speaker (SPL 1w/1meter in dB)
2) The nominal impedance of the existing woofer.
3) The nominal impedance of the replacement woofer.
4) The low-pass crossover frequency of the sub to mid drivers in Hz.
If the sensitivities of the OE vs. replacement are very different, you may not be able to get adequate output. Also, if the replacement has a low nominal impedance, you run the risk of overheating the bass amp due to excessive current. One would also need to know the low-pass, as the frequency may be higher than the replacement's frequency response, which would leave you with a glaring hole in the lower midrange.
I have the equipment to do these measurements, but I doubt many audio shops do. Point is, you may end up with bass out the wazoo, but you may muck up the linearity of the frequency response, which would change the carefull tuned stock system. IMHO, that would be a bad tradeoff.
06-27-2004 | 06:32 PM
#5
GÜNnµ ¡Ï
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 1
From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by Road Rage
I am an EE. And no bass addict - I keep the sub level at +2 or lower to avoid groos distortion and bass boom. To help answer your question, I would need to know:
1) The sensitivity of your proposed replacement speaker (SPL 1w/1meter in dB)
2) The nominal impedance of the existing woofer.
3) The nominal impedance of the replacement woofer.
4) The low-pass crossover frequency of the sub to mid drivers in Hz.
If the sensitivities of the OE vs. replacement are very different, you may not be able to get adequate output. Also, if the replacement has a low nominal impedance, you run the risk of overheating the bass amp due to excessive current. One would also need to know the low-pass, as the frequency may be higher than the replacement's frequency response, which would leave you with a glaring hole in the lower midrange.
I have the equipment to do these measurements, but I doubt many audio shops do. Point is, you may end up with bass out the wazoo, but you may muck up the linearity of the frequency response, which would change the carefull tuned stock system. IMHO, that would be a bad tradeoff.
1) The sensitivity of your proposed replacement speaker (SPL 1w/1meter in dB)
2) The nominal impedance of the existing woofer.
3) The nominal impedance of the replacement woofer.
4) The low-pass crossover frequency of the sub to mid drivers in Hz.
If the sensitivities of the OE vs. replacement are very different, you may not be able to get adequate output. Also, if the replacement has a low nominal impedance, you run the risk of overheating the bass amp due to excessive current. One would also need to know the low-pass, as the frequency may be higher than the replacement's frequency response, which would leave you with a glaring hole in the lower midrange.
I have the equipment to do these measurements, but I doubt many audio shops do. Point is, you may end up with bass out the wazoo, but you may muck up the linearity of the frequency response, which would change the carefull tuned stock system. IMHO, that would be a bad tradeoff.
tooo much stuff. i think i will keep it as is....
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