Stand by battery drain current?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stand by battery drain current?
i'm on my second battery for my 2005 TL. i replaced the OEM battery about a year ago. I'm not longer commuting to work in my car so it stays idle for weeks at the time.
I recently got a charger and currently charging a drain battery.
I decided to check stand-by current that TL draws while being off. It turned out to be about .65 amps for few seconds that later drops to .2-.25 amps. Which seems a bit high to me.
I remember there was a recall for a problem when central console would draw too much current that would result in a quick battery drain. I went to a dealer for that recall, but I vaguely remember being told that i was ok and didn't need anything done.
Does anyone know the stand by current by any chance?
I recently got a charger and currently charging a drain battery.
I decided to check stand-by current that TL draws while being off. It turned out to be about .65 amps for few seconds that later drops to .2-.25 amps. Which seems a bit high to me.
I remember there was a recall for a problem when central console would draw too much current that would result in a quick battery drain. I went to a dealer for that recall, but I vaguely remember being told that i was ok and didn't need anything done.
Does anyone know the stand by current by any chance?
#3
Desert Life Sucks!!
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I have a battery drain and my HFL is NEVER warm unless car is running. I check it constantly. I just put in a new battery due to battery draining a few times until it wouldn't hold a charge anymore.
Found out it was original battery (so 5 1/2 years old) which wasn't to bad.
With new battery that I have drove car once since putting it in, my car was sluggish to start the other day. I always feel the HFL before starting the car just to check.
I may have a faulty relay allowing battery power through??? But unlikely.
Post your results.
Found out it was original battery (so 5 1/2 years old) which wasn't to bad.
With new battery that I have drove car once since putting it in, my car was sluggish to start the other day. I always feel the HFL before starting the car just to check.
I may have a faulty relay allowing battery power through??? But unlikely.
Post your results.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
thank you, guys, this was helpful. it looks like the numbers i got .20-.25 amp are consistent with some numbers mentioned in the posts i found. i need to check if the draw drops to 35ma after 15 mins.
i might disconnect hfl since i'm not using it anyway. i found hfl TSB with instructions, this should be sufficient.
i might disconnect hfl since i'm not using it anyway. i found hfl TSB with instructions, this should be sufficient.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
it did drop to 35ma after 15mins, so i guess mine is working fine. at 35 ma it should take up to 3 months to completely drain the battery.
i will probably disconnect the HFL anyway to avoid 15 mins of 250ma draw
i will probably disconnect the HFL anyway to avoid 15 mins of 250ma draw
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sauceja (04-07-2013)
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#8
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1) Use a thin knife or feeler gauge blade to pop out the sunroof switch, which can then be disconnected from its multi-pin connector.
2) Then use your fingers to grab the rear of the hole left by the sunroof switch and just pull down to remove the overhead console containing the map lights, switch and Homelink before unplugging it from the multi-pin connector.
3) That exposes the four 8 mm bolts holding the HFL bezel/trim piece.
4) If the HFL connector is visible then, you can disconnect it. Otherwise, take off the four bolts, unplug the HFL unit and then reinstall the HFL unit & bezel.
2) Then use your fingers to grab the rear of the hole left by the sunroof switch and just pull down to remove the overhead console containing the map lights, switch and Homelink before unplugging it from the multi-pin connector.
3) That exposes the four 8 mm bolts holding the HFL bezel/trim piece.
4) If the HFL connector is visible then, you can disconnect it. Otherwise, take off the four bolts, unplug the HFL unit and then reinstall the HFL unit & bezel.
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Diver (04-07-2013)
#9
Race Director
The 15 minutes of HFL drain should not come close to draining a fully charged, good battery. Something else is going on...unless you are going months between charges...
Last edited by nfnsquared; 04-07-2013 at 06:17 PM.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
i drive about 3k a year right now. i barely drove it this winter since i was too lazy to clean full width of the driveway and used my wife's car instead.
bosh 78DT850B battery that i got last year has a capacity of 50 amph. 35ma drain would completely drain the battery in exactly 2 months. 15 minutes of parasitic 200ma drain due to active HFL would definitely not help.
bosh 78DT850B battery that i got last year has a capacity of 50 amph. 35ma drain would completely drain the battery in exactly 2 months. 15 minutes of parasitic 200ma drain due to active HFL would definitely not help.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Will Y,
Thanks for the instructions. i have a TSB for HFL replacement with the same instructions, but i was wondering if there was a fuse or something like that that would be easier to disconnect.
it looks like there isn't. thanks!
Thanks for the instructions. i have a TSB for HFL replacement with the same instructions, but i was wondering if there was a fuse or something like that that would be easier to disconnect.
it looks like there isn't. thanks!
#15
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
Where do you park it? Can you use a Battery Tender? My other car is almost never driven but the old battery in it works like new every time I take it out cause it's on a tender. Personally I would just invest in a better battery. Die Hard Platinum FTW!
#16
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
After I converted the 05 base to an 07 navi I have not had an issue with battery drainage.
08 S-I noticed if I leave the head light switch on AUTO the parking lights are on very very dim. Did not notice this until I switched to LED's all the way around. Maybe you just can't see the OEM bulbs? Even the bright LED's were very very dim. Took the switch off auto and they went off and no more sluggish battery in the AM's.
08 S-I noticed if I leave the head light switch on AUTO the parking lights are on very very dim. Did not notice this until I switched to LED's all the way around. Maybe you just can't see the OEM bulbs? Even the bright LED's were very very dim. Took the switch off auto and they went off and no more sluggish battery in the AM's.
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