-I'm well into finding out how to get all the windows and the roof to close using the key fob.
-I'm not promising anything but this information that I lack will help me save time in determining whether it will work or not.
-Basiclly I'm simulating the key being turned in the lock position from the drivers side door, and held the second time, thus sending all windows and roof close.
-I've already located the wire in the drivers door that will perform this function.
-All I need to know is where is the pizeo (the buzzer that gives the confirmation tone) that beeps when you hit the lock button more than once from the key fob.
-It sounds like it is comming from the drivers side wheel well.
-Better yet those of you who have a manual, where is the pizeo wired to and what is the polarity (signal that it gets)?
-I know that this confirmation tone that it makes is driver programable which makes me wonder if this is multiplexed.
-Thanks for the help!

 

This was posted some time ago (I forgot to record the poster's name so I can't give him credit here) and will tell you where it is. It was posted in answer to a question on how to move it so it would be easier to hear it beep. I don't have the electrical service manual so I can't give you any electrical info.

Remove the front left tire and support the car with an approved jackstand. Remove the plastic rivet pins from the fender liner starting at the rear of the front fender. You don't have to completely remove the liner, halfway so be just enough to get to beeper horn located in the upper rear fender well. Unbolt the mounting bolts and extend the wiring by about 8 feet with 18 gauge wires. Look behind the front grille and tie wrap the beeper horn to a good solid spot. Mine is directly behind where the front plate would be and out of the way of the elements. Good luck. My work here is done.

 

chusteveb are you an EE, cuz this is one hell of an undertaking, i will be really interested to see what progress you make

 

Ok guys, thanks for the info! I've made progess today and found the other wire I needed that will act as the trigger to send the windows up from our key fob. It is the wire that feeds to the pizeo from the keyless module in our cars. I'll let you know how everything works out once the specific pulse timer relay I ordered shows up.

 

I think you have a good chance of having it work correctly. But don't forget that window up safety feature is bypassed when you use the key.

 

Chusteveb, how are you planning on getting another signal from the key fob? Or are you going to trigger some kind of relay with a delay on it to fire everytime you lock the doors twice. I'm guessing you are going to use the second lock pulse to roll up the windows and sunroof?

If you do figure this out, I would be VERY interesting in a schematic and wire placement as I'd love to do it also...

 

Wow I am going to have to keep an eye on this thread.

 

You can subscribe to it so you will never miss an update.

 

Ron, always taking care of the homies.

 

The Fed Ex guy is my friend, seeing his truck roll up my driveway always makes my day!

... Ok, some of the parts are here. Enough to know if this set up will work! Cross your fingers...

 

Great, post as much info as you can, i will be trying this too

 

keep us posted!

 

Good luck on your endeavor, although I am not quite sure what you are trying to do - I must be dense.

I do not think the audible indicator is a piezo* (certainly not a pizeo, whatever that may be) - it sounds to me like a small speaker, but couold be a piezo-based buzzer. Anyway, it is located in the left (driver side) inner fender area. It is heavily weatherproofed.

There is a 2P connector accessible by removing the driver's side door. The LED confirmation lights and the sound come from power applied to the #2 terminal (the "right side") and #1 is the ground. The resistance acrossd the 2 terminals is about 1.7 kOhms

*For the non-EE's out there, piezo-ceramic buzzers use an interesting effect of ceramics materials - they can be induced to make sound - pretty loud with little input energy.
Basically, the sound source of a piezoelectric sound
component is a piezoelectric diaphragm. A piezoelectric
diaphragm consists of a piezoelectric ceramic plate
which has electrodes on both sides and a metal plate
(brass or stainless steel, etc.).
A piezoelectric ceramic plate is attached to a metal plate
with adhesives. Applying D.C. voltage between electrodes of a
piezoelectric diaphragm causes mechanical distortion
due to the piezoelectric effect. For a misshaped
piezoelectric element, the distortion of the piezoelectric
element expands in a radial direction. And the
piezoelectric diaphragm bends in one direction.
The metal plate bonded to the
piezoelectric element does not expand. Conversely,
when the piezoelectric element shrinks, the piezoelectric
diaphragm bends in the other direction.

If one applies an AC voltage, the bending occurs so fast that we hear a continuous tone.

These systems are cheap and quite rugged - they also can extend well beyond the human audible range, making them useful for experiments. They are not too useful as high fidelity as they are undamped resonant transducers - thatmeans they "ring", or continue to make sound after the input signal stops.

 

Very well put RR, that was better than any textbooks i had in college

 

If I had to guess (and I'm by no means an EE), could he simply be using the current sent to the buzzer to trigger a Relay type device that would then hold down the electronics of the lock in the locked position for X seconds (whatever it would take to close all 4 being fully open).

I wouldnt have a clue even where to begin, but it sounds feasible to me.

 

Yup Casper42, you are the winner. lol
Except that the voltage going to the piezo is too low to trigger a relay so I'm using a low voltage remote power adapter in conjunction with a pulse timer to close everything up.

Alright here's the update, ...I have actually got it working and just took a few quick pictures. I'm testing out this set up so that I don't confuse anyone when I later try and explain how to do this. It took me 1 remote power adapter and 3 pulse timer's. I used DEI products since they are so readily available. I'm also looking at different relay timers that may simplify the set up. But so far everything is good. I had to mess with the timers a bit to make sure the relays stayed on long enoungh for the roof to close. For now, I've got everything to close up (all windows and roof) by pressing the lock button twice simutaniously on my key fob (when the confirmation tone is heard). I'll get back to you guys with more details

 

awsome job!

Can I make a suggestion though, can you set your switch to trigger only if the buzzer beeps twice within a certain time span? Because I (and I'm sure alot of others) always press the lock button twice just to make sure that all the doors and the trunk are closed.

 

Chusteveb, you should get a one-piece plug-and-play unit manufactured and sell it on ebay. I'm sure an enormous number of TL owners would want to add this functionality to our car, and be willing to pay at least 50 bucks for it. I know I would buy one.

If the relays etc are cheap, you could make alot of bank on this one.

Good luck.

 

MisterLawyer, I appreciate the idea however I'll decline at this time. I like to do modifications to my car because the end result is something I wanted in the car (personal preferance), and I'm glad to share this one with you and other TLer's. But I like your way of thinking!

Also, the relay module that makes installation a lot easier retails for almost $90. I'm searching for a cheaper way to do it or else I'll just post how I did mine which still costs me almost $70.

I guess I could get these in through my local shop and wire them together and send them out to whoever wants them for minimal money. I'll have to check with the rules and the MODS first to make sure everything would be cosure first. I'll still post how it is done so those who are more inclined to do this can do it themselves. Really after the prewireing is done all that is left to install into the car is B+, Ground, one wire under under the dash by the brake pedal, one wire in the drivers door that needs to be brought through the boot into the car. 4 wires total. Basiclly getting the one wire through the drivers door is the hardest part.

^^^^
Oil Fighter, I'm sorry to say that with my set up you can't do it on a second chirp or third press of the button simply because I'm using the wire that feeds to the piezo to trigger my pulse relay timers. However I will say that it will not hurt any of those timers nor any of the factory window moters if activated even though non of the windows are down or roof is open. All of our factory window modules are load bearing sensative by measuring resistance. This is how our one touch up and down, open and close, know when to quit. Botton line is that you can still press your lock button on your fob twice or how ever many times you want to get the confirmation tone that all is locked up and not worry about ruining anything even though all of your windows and roof is already closed.

I'll get something up here asap with pics.

 

chusteveb, I just wanted to say you rock and that I'm sure I'm not alone when I say I await your instructions with anticipation.

 

.

 

Once again I think it is a great idea. I had similar setup on my previous car and loved it. Here is some questions:

Do you know if the wire from key lock can be found inside the car? That is is it really necessary to take out the door?

Same question regarding the piezzo buzzer thingy.

What did you use to traslate the signal from the buzzer to 12V so that more realys can be used?

IDEA:
For easier setu-up and maybe lower cost, resarch timed relays from company called finder. Although they make relays for industrial HVAC most of the models come in 12V DC versions as well ( http://www.connex-electronics.com go to timer relays 86 series) Using one relay could lower the cost and get the timing perfectly.

Like I mentioned, when you use the key to close windows, they do not stop for any obstructions like your hand. So this mod poses a small safety risk as there is no way to stop closing preocess once it starts. (Unless you can click Unlock twice fast enough) Regardless of the safety I think you are right and the motors stop working once the window is all the way up. But I think it is sensed through position of the windows rather then load. If it was load alone then why could I pinch my whole hand in the window?

Anyway,

Great Idea

 

Ok I'm working on the schematics while watching football...

^
Unfortunately the wire from the lock core has a short run to the master window control switches in the drivers door, which is then multiplexed into the window modules in the car I'm not sure how the roof works but I'm sure it must be multiplexed in somehow. Don't quote me on this since I didn't see the need to do any further reasearch.

As to the safety issue, ... I guess do this at your own risk. I'm not to sure what MrBadGUy means but I think he's talking about the windows stopping when your hand is in the way of the window closing completely. If this is the issue, then yes you are right in the sense that the window has no way of knowing that something is in it's path (ie. garage door sensors) But the motor will stop once a certain amount of resistance is measured, this I know. If you were to stick an object in the path of the window closing all the way, it will physically hit it. However the motor will stop once the resistance value is met, it may hurt a bit because the motor is set for a higher resistance value than our pinching comfort level but it shouldn't take your hand off and once the motor stops if you were to remove the object that was in the closing path in a way without moving the window position, it will not continue to close. So in normal situations, the design is to make sure the window is shut tightly.
I know I've read or heard about some issues of people getting hurt or even killed from power windows. It was something along the lines of, ... a little kid sticking his head out of a vehicle with the window half shut and at the same time climbing on the seat and door panel combination, window goes up and kills the kid by pinching his throat or oxygen path way. Some version of this anyhow. I know they said that the kids had acidentally put his foot, knee, hand or whatever onto the window up switch and never knew to get off of it. In this case the window motor would not know when to stop. Please just excersie caution and more so common sense.

I do know that if your windows were on its way up and you hit the unlock button, all motion will stop.

One additional note is that the relays should only be set to be active for the duration it takes to close the sunroof as this is the longest span for full travel.

 

CORRECTION!
Thanks MrBadGUy for bringing this up.
So from further research, since the rear windows don't have the one touch operation feature, the rear windows WILL continue to try and close until the timer relay turns off or the unlock button is pressed. This is regardless whether or not something is in it's path or even if it is closed completely. All the others, front windows and roof, will stop by sensing load bearing, but the rear windows WILL NOT as they are not set up for this. They will stop after the relays have timed-out!!!

Thanks again guys, got me thinking!

 

It's way more fun to do it yourself.

 

The sequel to this thread, showing great great pictures and full instructions, are here https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/nj-area-detailers-101211/

This thread is now closed. Start filling up the new one with praise and positive rep points for chusteveb.