How would I go about removing a small scratch from my car?

Length of Scratch: The scratch is less than an inch long.
Width of Scratch: The scratch is as wide as a piece of paper is thick.
Depth of Scratch: The scratch is as deep as a piece of paper is thick.

When I run my finger across it I can't feel the scratch, but I can see it.

 

^^^^^photos would help, but I would say........meguairs scratch-x applied 3 times with passion

 

I'll try to get a photo of the scratch tomorrow because it's too dark now. Five quick questions:

1. Will Meguiar's ScratchX harm the paint on the car?
2. Does Meguiar's ScratchX work on any car color / paint type?
3. Do I need to do anything else other than apply Meguiar's ScratchX?
4. Will Meguiar's ScratchX permanently remove the scratch?
5. Is there any buffing involved because I don't have an electric buffer?

Thanks!

 

1. Will Meguiar's ScratchX harm the paint on the car? No...

2. Does Meguiar's ScratchX work on any car color / paint type? Yes...

3. Do I need to do anything else other than apply Meguiar's ScratchX? Depends on the depth of the scratch. You mentioned that the depth was that of a piece of paper. Not sure if I/we comprehend what you mean...

4. Will Meguiar's ScratchX permanently remove the scratch? Personally, I had no luck with ScratchX. I recently purchased a Porter Cable Polisher Sander and I was able to remove my targeted scratches with very little effort. I was unable to remove the same scratches with ScratchX.

5. Is there any buffing involved because I don't have an electric buffer? I have found that I am very limited in what I want to accomplish by hand, regardless of the product that I use.

Hope this helps!

 

The depth of the scratch is equivalent to the thickness of a single sheet of paper. Has anyone had success with Meguiar's ScratchX?

 

Also, is Meguiar's ScratchX sold in stores?

 

Yes it is sold in stores, i bought mine at the local Walmart!

 

Yes I have had great success. It works very well and you do not need a orbital to get great results. You will need to exert alot of pressure with it, thats where most people that think it does not work fail. Several of us acuraziners were treated to an all day hands on learning session up at meguiars and were shown how to use, among others, this product specifically. Everyone was amazed at the amount of pressure that our teacher used with the product. There is no way to possible harm your paint with the force needed to make the product work. also at least 3 applications will be necessary for the best results.

 

Awesome! Do you just rub the Meguiar’s ScratchX on with a soft cloth, let it dry, wipe off the dried film with another soft cloth, and repeat the process two more times? Is waxing necessary after the treatment because I never wax my cars?

 

You do not let it dry, you will see it change in consistency as you scrub it across the scratched area, and then wipe it off. you do not let it dry. yes you will need to apply whatever paint protection that you are using afterwards as this will have removed it. What do you mean that you never wax your cars?

 

I just wash my cars. I don't use wax, polish, etc. afterwards. I don't have any paint protection (i.e. wax?) on my car. I haven't done anything (i.e. washed it, waxed it, etc.) to my car since I got it last week. Will the Meguiar's ScratchX remove the clear coat from my car?

 

No it wont remove your clear coat! You should definitely clay bar your car and then apply some protection be it a sealant or a wax. These are sacraficial coatings that will protect your clear coat, without them it will be your clear coat that is being damaged by the bird crap and industrial fallout

 

personally I like 3m's Imperial Hand Glaze - it's really gentle on the paint and I get great results with it.

I agree with pohljm, alway have at least couple of layers of wax on the car. I winterize my car by waxing it three consecutive weekends to combat the road salt.

 

Imperial hand glaze is more of a pure polish, kinda like Meg's show car glaze etc, there is no paint protection in it. It is designed to be topped with some kind of paint protector, be it a sealant or a wax. It is not intended to be a final coat unless your indoors at a car show. You will want to add some protectant on top of it once you bring it outside.

 

I know... guess I did not make that clear.

 

What wax / type of protection do you guys recommend?

 

Whatever you feel comfortable applying, since the most important thing is getting it on in the first place! I use a paint sealant like Meg's #20 or #21 rather than a wax because I think I get a little bit more protection time out of it so I dont need to apply as frequently. I think that the single most important thing you can do for your finish would be to clay bar it before you worry about what product you use to protect it. I wash it with a good car wash soap, then clay it. then I will use #8 show car glaze, then #20 sealant.

 

Another decent OTC sealant is Meguiars ColorX .. it will remove oxidzation and leave a polymer behind .. not as good as a pure polymer like #20 or Glanz or Klasse etc but affordable and easy to use.

 

I would say that the color-x is more paint cleaner than what he needs on his new car paint, but appropriate for his older vehicles that have never been waxed

 

I don't know if you have ever used ColorX or not but as an OTC it is great for taking off oxidization ( which new cars do have because of paint curing ), has the abillity to remove very fine swirling and some filling capabilities. I use it all the time an was one of the first in Canada to recieve it for evaluation from Meguiars long before it was available on the market up here.

It also leave behind a very good polymer layer which will outlast most every OTC wax out there.

Saying ColorX is for older cars is like saying there is no need to Claybar a new car.

 

I have used color-x on my sons 91 explorer. And I would clay a new car first thing