Serpentine belt
12-08-2010, 09:18 PM
#1
Serpentine belt
hey guys its time to change my serpentine belt! at 92k wow dont know what happened anyway whats a really good serpentine belt to get?
im sure its my serpentine belt because the wheel is squeaking can anyone help me out and tell me if its the serpentine belt thats causing the wheel to squeak?
im sure its my serpentine belt because the wheel is squeaking can anyone help me out and tell me if its the serpentine belt thats causing the wheel to squeak?
Last edited by tl_dinhsum84; 12-08-2010 at 09:21 PM.
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12-10-2010, 10:51 AM
#12
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that's a good amount of miles you put on before replacing it...dealer recommended a change in mine b/c of cracks at ~57k...anyway, went to my local shop and they replaced it w/the oem.
12-10-2010, 07:00 PM
#13
wow i didnt know lol soumds like i must change them right away any good tips on how to do it or maybe a diy? i tried and found nothing anything helps im planning on doing it myself and i havent before but sounds easy, an autozone guy told me to loosen the third pully down and moving that pulley to the right then pull off the belt and replace? might be the tensioner?
does that sound right
is this serpentine belt also called the drive belt?
Last edited by tl_dinhsum84; 12-10-2010 at 07:03 PM.
12-13-2010, 08:55 AM
#14
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http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060840-...2005&carId=002
I found this one on amazon. It says that it fits but is this the recommended one? Thanks
I found this one on amazon. It says that it fits but is this the recommended one? Thanks
12-18-2010, 07:43 AM
#17
I know most places quit carrying the gatorback cuz apparently it wasnt very good. They replaced it with the dayco brand and its pretty decent.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
12-18-2010, 07:10 PM
#18
I know most places quit carrying the gatorback cuz apparently it wasnt very good. They replaced it with the dayco brand and its pretty decent.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
and you cant make it sound simpler than you just put it thanks buddy!
i think i might go with oem you make it sound so much better hahaha
12-18-2010, 08:04 PM
#19
I know most places quit carrying the gatorback cuz apparently it wasnt very good. They replaced it with the dayco brand and its pretty decent.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
And if you can't figure out of to change a belt..... boy oh boy......
Slap a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the fire wall and pull it off the pulleys. Then reroute the new belt and compress the tensioner to get it on.
Last edited by BradE; 12-18-2010 at 08:06 PM.
12-18-2010, 11:56 PM
#20
The gatorback's were very good belts. Well built, quiet, and didn't jump or strech. The reason a lot of places stopped carrying them wasn't due to quality, it was because they were more expensive. You average job blow customer in a parts store just buys whatever is cheapest. The mentality is why should I spend $39 on a belt when brand x piece of shit is only $19? If you don't have high volume, you get pushed out of retail auto parts chains pretty fast.
So is gatorback a good belt I found it on ebay for 21 free shipping. Sounds good to me should I get this gatorback?
12-19-2010, 05:27 PM
#22
Autozone guy is full of shit. They likely went to a cheaper brand because they have a higher profit margin on those belts.
12-19-2010, 11:50 PM
#25
2005 AM at/navi
you can call honda dealer they do have it. and you should go oem man, i just bought a oem drive belt and timing belt kit. you have a luxury car that is very reliable so it deserves the oem stuff man, its not that expensive anyways and it will last for another 100k miles i say go OEM. good luck
12-20-2010, 01:18 AM
#26
here...read this before you order...may not be the belt, but changing the belt at the same time might be good. Whole install of new tensioner with both new pulleys (the reason for the noise for me) and a belt took me 30 minutes and ran me 160 from oemacuraparts dot com
Good luck!
Good luck!
12-20-2010, 12:14 PM
#27
here...read this before you order...may not be the belt, but changing the belt at the same time might be good. Whole install of new tensioner with both new pulleys (the reason for the noise for me) and a belt took me 30 minutes and ran me 160 from oemacuraparts dot com
Good luck!
Good luck!
12-21-2010, 09:19 PM
#29
Suzuka Master
I dont think the new belt will quiet things down for you, thats more than likely the tensioner or idler pulley makin noise
12-22-2010, 12:29 AM
#32
you think i can get away with just the tensioner pulley and belt ? because i really ont know what the idler looks like or where its located this will be my first time doing this i found the breaker bar at advanced auto parts for them to loan it to me.
so im going to take off the tensioner pulley and replace it with the new one then replace belt and reroute it correct?
so im going to take off the tensioner pulley and replace it with the new one then replace belt and reroute it correct?
12-22-2010, 12:31 AM
#33
^^ Attached the tensioner. Tensioner has two bolts that hold it onto the block as well as two pulleys. One pulley being the tensioner pulley, the other being the idler pulley. The idler pulley does not move where as the tensioner pulley is on the "spring-side" of the tensioner, and has all the tension on it lol
Not sure how else to explain it. IIRC, you CAN order only the pulleys.
Not sure how else to explain it. IIRC, you CAN order only the pulleys.
12-22-2010, 08:04 AM
#35
First off, don't be buying breaker bars at the autoparts store...a nice thick piece of PVC, or a 2 foot section of galvanized pipe for 5 bucks ell do you.
Ok, as explained above...if you purchase the tensioner assembly, it comes with the 2 pulleys mounted on it. In hindsight, probably could have done that, although, since it is a wear/tear item, I figured I should knock it out in one fell swoop and cover all my bases. Breaker bar on the bottom pulley bolt, push toward the car...bam...(it's not THAT tight)...then if you feel around under it to the left of it (once you receive the new one, it's easier to picture) there is a 10MM bolt that basically just holds it in place.
VERY doable...a few notes:
1. The long 14MM bolt has a plastic washer on the other side of it, when you loosen it, it won't come all the way out (because it doesn't fit between the fender wall and engine)
2. Do this with engine cold...or you may burn your hands (unless you live in freezing climate and a warm engine bay may be welcome)
3. Before ordering listen very carefully for where it's coming from...if you can take a long piece of metal (one that gets your head out of the engine bay) and touch the bolt of the pulleys in comparison to the power steering pump and the alternator...just to make SURE that's what it is. 4. Many people have had this problem...I hit it now...60K and a 2004.
5. Do yourself a favor, draw a diagram of how the belt is on there. I took it off first and freaked the first time no knowing how it went back on.
Just the pulleys would be about $50, plus 30 for the belt. Stick with OEM, nothing wrong with it. Your OEM belt is probably ok now...but if it's off, might as well change it too IMO.
I check AZ often, so if you get stuck, PM me...
Good luck!
Should take about 30 minutes, TOPS.
J.
Ok, as explained above...if you purchase the tensioner assembly, it comes with the 2 pulleys mounted on it. In hindsight, probably could have done that, although, since it is a wear/tear item, I figured I should knock it out in one fell swoop and cover all my bases. Breaker bar on the bottom pulley bolt, push toward the car...bam...(it's not THAT tight)...then if you feel around under it to the left of it (once you receive the new one, it's easier to picture) there is a 10MM bolt that basically just holds it in place.
VERY doable...a few notes:
1. The long 14MM bolt has a plastic washer on the other side of it, when you loosen it, it won't come all the way out (because it doesn't fit between the fender wall and engine)
2. Do this with engine cold...or you may burn your hands (unless you live in freezing climate and a warm engine bay may be welcome)
3. Before ordering listen very carefully for where it's coming from...if you can take a long piece of metal (one that gets your head out of the engine bay) and touch the bolt of the pulleys in comparison to the power steering pump and the alternator...just to make SURE that's what it is. 4. Many people have had this problem...I hit it now...60K and a 2004.
5. Do yourself a favor, draw a diagram of how the belt is on there. I took it off first and freaked the first time no knowing how it went back on.
Just the pulleys would be about $50, plus 30 for the belt. Stick with OEM, nothing wrong with it. Your OEM belt is probably ok now...but if it's off, might as well change it too IMO.
I check AZ often, so if you get stuck, PM me...
Good luck!
Should take about 30 minutes, TOPS.
J.
12-22-2010, 12:44 PM
#36
First off, don't be buying breaker bars at the autoparts store...a nice thick piece of PVC, or a 2 foot section of galvanized pipe for 5 bucks ell do you.
Ok, as explained above...if you purchase the tensioner assembly, it comes with the 2 pulleys mounted on it. In hindsight, probably could have done that, although, since it is a wear/tear item, I figured I should knock it out in one fell swoop and cover all my bases. Breaker bar on the bottom pulley bolt, push toward the car...bam...(it's not THAT tight)...then if you feel around under it to the left of it (once you receive the new one, it's easier to picture) there is a 10MM bolt that basically just holds it in place.
VERY doable...a few notes:
1. The long 14MM bolt has a plastic washer on the other side of it, when you loosen it, it won't come all the way out (because it doesn't fit between the fender wall and engine)
2. Do this with engine cold...or you may burn your hands (unless you live in freezing climate and a warm engine bay may be welcome)
3. Before ordering listen very carefully for where it's coming from...if you can take a long piece of metal (one that gets your head out of the engine bay) and touch the bolt of the pulleys in comparison to the power steering pump and the alternator...just to make SURE that's what it is. 4. Many people have had this problem...I hit it now...60K and a 2004.
5. Do yourself a favor, draw a diagram of how the belt is on there. I took it off first and freaked the first time no knowing how it went back on.
Just the pulleys would be about $50, plus 30 for the belt. Stick with OEM, nothing wrong with it. Your OEM belt is probably ok now...but if it's off, might as well change it too IMO.
I check AZ often, so if you get stuck, PM me...
Good luck!
Should take about 30 minutes, TOPS.
J.
Ok, as explained above...if you purchase the tensioner assembly, it comes with the 2 pulleys mounted on it. In hindsight, probably could have done that, although, since it is a wear/tear item, I figured I should knock it out in one fell swoop and cover all my bases. Breaker bar on the bottom pulley bolt, push toward the car...bam...(it's not THAT tight)...then if you feel around under it to the left of it (once you receive the new one, it's easier to picture) there is a 10MM bolt that basically just holds it in place.
VERY doable...a few notes:
1. The long 14MM bolt has a plastic washer on the other side of it, when you loosen it, it won't come all the way out (because it doesn't fit between the fender wall and engine)
2. Do this with engine cold...or you may burn your hands (unless you live in freezing climate and a warm engine bay may be welcome)
3. Before ordering listen very carefully for where it's coming from...if you can take a long piece of metal (one that gets your head out of the engine bay) and touch the bolt of the pulleys in comparison to the power steering pump and the alternator...just to make SURE that's what it is. 4. Many people have had this problem...I hit it now...60K and a 2004.
5. Do yourself a favor, draw a diagram of how the belt is on there. I took it off first and freaked the first time no knowing how it went back on.
Just the pulleys would be about $50, plus 30 for the belt. Stick with OEM, nothing wrong with it. Your OEM belt is probably ok now...but if it's off, might as well change it too IMO.
I check AZ often, so if you get stuck, PM me...
Good luck!
Should take about 30 minutes, TOPS.
J.
12-22-2010, 01:17 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
1. Jack up the car from passenger side.
2. remove passenger tire
3. remove plastic cover which will expose the crank pulley and lower idler pulley.
4. you do not need a breaker bar to push back on the tensioner pulley. Use a, believe it was 14mm wrench and place a pipe over it for leverage, then push towards the back of the engine. Slip off the belt from the power steering pump first and then release tension.
*..note...when placing the new belt make sure to put the belt over the P.S pulley last. It'll make it much easier.
Removing pullies from tensioner.
The upper most pulley you see has reverse threading. So you'll need to pull the wrench towards you to loosen the bolt holding the tension pulley.
The idler pulley is normal...righty tighty, lefty loosey.
You can remove the assembly from the top of the car but trust me, its a bitch. Actually, its tough even from the bottom.
Just remember to remove the upper pulley before you begin to unscrew the assembly
Dayco belts are just as good as OEM but, for the price. i'd rather just buy an OEM belt.
One thing I noticed with the Dayco belt, is that its a bit wider than the OEM belt. The edge of the dayco belt I bought was rubbing no the edge of my crank pulley which frayed it a little bit. My friend that works at Acura gave me a new OEM belt and I swapped it out in less than 2 minutes right in front of the dealership.
Just make sure to note down how the belts are routed back onto the pullies. I can scan my diagram for you when i get home.
hope you can understand my post. typing this on my iphone isnt that much fun. Nor is standing here on the train platform in 30 degree weather. lol
2. remove passenger tire
3. remove plastic cover which will expose the crank pulley and lower idler pulley.
4. you do not need a breaker bar to push back on the tensioner pulley. Use a, believe it was 14mm wrench and place a pipe over it for leverage, then push towards the back of the engine. Slip off the belt from the power steering pump first and then release tension.
*..note...when placing the new belt make sure to put the belt over the P.S pulley last. It'll make it much easier.
Removing pullies from tensioner.
The upper most pulley you see has reverse threading. So you'll need to pull the wrench towards you to loosen the bolt holding the tension pulley.
The idler pulley is normal...righty tighty, lefty loosey.
You can remove the assembly from the top of the car but trust me, its a bitch. Actually, its tough even from the bottom.
Just remember to remove the upper pulley before you begin to unscrew the assembly
Dayco belts are just as good as OEM but, for the price. i'd rather just buy an OEM belt.
One thing I noticed with the Dayco belt, is that its a bit wider than the OEM belt. The edge of the dayco belt I bought was rubbing no the edge of my crank pulley which frayed it a little bit. My friend that works at Acura gave me a new OEM belt and I swapped it out in less than 2 minutes right in front of the dealership.
Just make sure to note down how the belts are routed back onto the pullies. I can scan my diagram for you when i get home.
hope you can understand my post. typing this on my iphone isnt that much fun. Nor is standing here on the train platform in 30 degree weather. lol
12-22-2010, 04:35 PM
#38
^^^ exactly that...except I did it all from above, jacking or taking off the wheel. At least for me, like I said, 30 minute job.
That and yes, remove belt first...14MM and breaker bar and push toward car on TOP pully (of the 2), that gives and gives the belt slack...then you can slide it off the power steering pump.
That and yes, remove belt first...14MM and breaker bar and push toward car on TOP pully (of the 2), that gives and gives the belt slack...then you can slide it off the power steering pump.
