I never had an issue with my brembo threads stripping even when I last touched my brakes. You dont have to he man those bolts but I did use a tq wrench for that one.

 

Count yourself lucky, there were quite a few people on here that had a problem removing the lower bolts on each side, myself included. Acura cross threaded the lower bolts into the Brembo calipers. It required a breaker bar just to get the lower bolts out (the whole way). There is a Brembo Brake write-up on here where the poster ran into the same problem.

Those Auto plants use tools that drive both bolts in at the same time to the correct spec, unlike the regular brakes, aluminum is pretty soft and those machines have plenty of torque to cross thread. The torque spec is around 125ft*lbs I think. That is more than your lugnuts, so very easy for the machine to cross thread without hitting the torque setting until the end. Whoever screwed up screwed up alot. May be the small number of 6mt that let the problem go for so long...

 

True. I can see how that works. I know on the older LS430s because of the aluminum caliper you have to replace the two caliper bolts everytime you take them out because of the different metals. I have done quite a bit of them and it states replace them. As for the acura ones I am not sure. I havent read in depth since I used the same bolt and didnt have much issue with it at all. The threads looked fine when I peeked in there when I was cleaning the caliper. I guess I was one of the lucky ones. It might also be where you are located too which could be a bitch.

 

What a PITA.. It's happened to me on the X. Tightening that last bolt to spec then.. nothing.. ffffuuuu!!! Luckily I'm well versed in Murphy's Law.

Are you using the locking helicoils? I've heard of several failures with the standard ones.



hmmm.. btw where is Trip?.. I haven't seen him post in a while.

 

 

No, I used the standard heli-coils with the M14-1.5 thread (same original thread). I have a drill press in the garage and when the bolt wouldn't torque to spec, I knew it was stripped. Pulled out the bolt and nothing but shavings in the hole. It was crappy coming out and I knew threads were being wrecked. Pulled the caliper, drilled it out, tapped the hole and placed the heli-coils without issue. Replaced the caliper, and the bolt torqued to spec without a problem. Had to bleed the caliper, that was the real pain, dealing with disconnecting the brake line. I think the cost of the heli-coils were around $60, that included five inserts, tap and heli-coil tool. Better than the $500 for a replacement caliper.

Not sure what kind of failure you mean. As long as you torque to spec (125 Ft*lbf), it shouldn't come loose (assuming that's the failure).

 

hey guys ive been haulin ass in work, been a long time since ive posted. im starting to pay attention to the forums again...... i have an engine on the side im going to do some things to, ill be posting info on it later.

 

I've had the opportunity to do the same but no space & no time right now.