Rotors covered under warranty?
10-05-2009, 12:39 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Rotors covered under warranty?
Just out of curiosity, are the rotors covered under warranty? I just got a used 2007 Acura TL Type-S, and the rotors have obvious indentions from the brakes(not sure of the exact terminology). Also, I changed the brakes and there is still an obvious squeaking/squealing noise.
I got the extended warranty and service package so the dealer will do oil changes, tire rotations, etc etc. So, basically I am wondering if the rotors are covered under warranty? I just got this car and I am disappointed with already having to replace parts on the car.
Thanks!
I got the extended warranty and service package so the dealer will do oil changes, tire rotations, etc etc. So, basically I am wondering if the rotors are covered under warranty? I just got this car and I am disappointed with already having to replace parts on the car.
Thanks!
10-05-2009, 01:24 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
You can call your dealer and ask. Usually a parts shop (oreillys) will machine them for like 10 bucks a rotor if it still has material to be machined. I am pretty sure the dealer will do it too but I dunno if they wil cover that. I would call them and ask.
10-05-2009, 02:59 AM
#3
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I can tell you from experience that they are not at all, I had an issue with one of my calipers which damaged my rear driver side rotor. The caliper was covered but the rotor was not...Even with that said you may be able to talk your way into it or have a more understanding dealership than the dealer I was dealing with best of luck
10-05-2009, 05:33 AM
#4
Racer
Brakes are a wearable part/system, and should not be covered, but if your nice the service writer might be willing to help you with the cost of cutting the rotors. As for the squealing, welcome to the wonderful world of having Brembo brakes on your car. They are noisy, but very good brakes.
10-05-2009, 07:29 AM
#6
Brakes are a wearable part/system, and should not be covered, but if your nice the service writer might be willing to help you with the cost of cutting the rotors. As for the squealing, welcome to the wonderful world of having Brembo brakes on your car. They are noisy, but very good brakes.
10-05-2009, 09:24 AM
#7
AZ Community Team
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Couple of points of clarificaiton.
As mentioned Rotors and Pads are wear items and not under warranty UNLESS the damage is caused by a mechanical failure, such as a stuck/broken caliper. Whomever got the caliper covered and was stuck buying the rotor got hosed.
If you turn/machine/cut the rotors (and that's a BIG "if"), Acura uses an on-car brake lathe to cut the rotor exactly perpendicular to the car. Most other shops (O'Reillys, etc) may take the rotor off the car to do this.
Do NOT machine/cut/turn the rotors if you don't have to. Unless you have clear signs of rotor warping you are just setting yourself up to have the rotors warp (again?) sooner. The more material removed, the less the rotor can deal with heat from braking. To minimize the risk of warping rotors make SURE your wheels are torqued to SPEC (80 ft/lbs).
Some people seem to have trouble with brake noise on the Brembo's. Other don't. Mine have been quite as a church mouse from day one. I've got 35k miles on the car and the original OE rorotrs (never turned) and am on my 2nd set of OE pads.
I do know this, when the pads were changed, everything was cleaned, properly greased and properly re-assembled. That was 10k - 15k miles ago. I have NO issues with these brakes.
As mentioned Rotors and Pads are wear items and not under warranty UNLESS the damage is caused by a mechanical failure, such as a stuck/broken caliper. Whomever got the caliper covered and was stuck buying the rotor got hosed.
If you turn/machine/cut the rotors (and that's a BIG "if"), Acura uses an on-car brake lathe to cut the rotor exactly perpendicular to the car. Most other shops (O'Reillys, etc) may take the rotor off the car to do this.
Do NOT machine/cut/turn the rotors if you don't have to. Unless you have clear signs of rotor warping you are just setting yourself up to have the rotors warp (again?) sooner. The more material removed, the less the rotor can deal with heat from braking. To minimize the risk of warping rotors make SURE your wheels are torqued to SPEC (80 ft/lbs).
Some people seem to have trouble with brake noise on the Brembo's. Other don't. Mine have been quite as a church mouse from day one. I've got 35k miles on the car and the original OE rorotrs (never turned) and am on my 2nd set of OE pads.
I do know this, when the pads were changed, everything was cleaned, properly greased and properly re-assembled. That was 10k - 15k miles ago. I have NO issues with these brakes.
Last edited by Bearcat94; 10-05-2009 at 09:26 AM.
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10-05-2009, 10:49 AM
#8
If you turn/machine/cut the rotors (and that's a BIG "if"), Acura uses an on-car brake lathe to cut the rotor exactly perpendicular to the car. Most other shops (O'Reillys, etc) may take the rotor off the car to do this.
Do NOT machine/cut/turn the rotors if you don't have to. Unless you have clear signs of rotor warping you are just setting yourself up to have the rotors warp (again?) sooner. The more material removed, the less the rotor can deal with heat from braking. To minimize the risk of warping rotors make SURE your wheels are torqued to SPEC (80 ft/lbs).
Some people seem to have trouble with brake noise on the Brembo's. Other don't. Mine have been quite as a church mouse from day one. I've got 35k miles on the car and the original OE rorotrs (never turned) and am on my 2nd set of OE pads.
I do know this, when the pads were changed, everything was cleaned, properly greased and properly re-assembled. That was 10k - 15k miles ago. I have NO issues with these brakes.
Do NOT machine/cut/turn the rotors if you don't have to. Unless you have clear signs of rotor warping you are just setting yourself up to have the rotors warp (again?) sooner. The more material removed, the less the rotor can deal with heat from braking. To minimize the risk of warping rotors make SURE your wheels are torqued to SPEC (80 ft/lbs).
Some people seem to have trouble with brake noise on the Brembo's. Other don't. Mine have been quite as a church mouse from day one. I've got 35k miles on the car and the original OE rorotrs (never turned) and am on my 2nd set of OE pads.
I do know this, when the pads were changed, everything was cleaned, properly greased and properly re-assembled. That was 10k - 15k miles ago. I have NO issues with these brakes.
If there are any grooves or warping of the rotors, I always opt to change rather than cut.
I always torque the wheel lugs evenly and haven't had any warpage problems on either of my Honda's. I'm actually on original pads and rotors on my Pilot with 78K.
10-05-2009, 11:47 AM
#9
the OP said they replaced the pads on rotors with some marking- I am guessing that means gouging-scoring not just the typical heat stripes and minor scrapes that the metal in the pads makes
If the rotors were damaged that way- new pads wont help and they dont like trying to bed in against a damaged surface!
Noises can be from that, or from failure to clean and lube a few things
Good idea to clean the rotors with sandpaper if not surfacing or replacing so the new pads have a fresh surface to mate to. Rinse with brake cleaner spray before new pads go in.
There are other pad options than dealer than are quieter- like ceramics
Best idea to flush brake fluid before working on brakes, so the crud is removed before pushing the pistons in and disturbing things
wiki hygroscopic for info
brembo bleed outer then inner nipple
overall order is special to the TL, driver front then clockwise- LF RF RR LR
If the rotors were damaged that way- new pads wont help and they dont like trying to bed in against a damaged surface!
Noises can be from that, or from failure to clean and lube a few things
Good idea to clean the rotors with sandpaper if not surfacing or replacing so the new pads have a fresh surface to mate to. Rinse with brake cleaner spray before new pads go in.
There are other pad options than dealer than are quieter- like ceramics
Best idea to flush brake fluid before working on brakes, so the crud is removed before pushing the pistons in and disturbing things
wiki hygroscopic for info
brembo bleed outer then inner nipple
overall order is special to the TL, driver front then clockwise- LF RF RR LR
10-05-2009, 12:03 PM
#10
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Wow, I've got 23K so I guess I'd better check my pads.
If there are any grooves or warping of the rotors, I always opt to change rather than cut.
I always torque the wheel lugs evenly and haven't had any warpage problems on either of my Honda's. I'm actually on original pads and rotors on my Pilot with 78K.
If there are any grooves or warping of the rotors, I always opt to change rather than cut.
I always torque the wheel lugs evenly and haven't had any warpage problems on either of my Honda's. I'm actually on original pads and rotors on my Pilot with 78K.
On my '02 (which is similar to the base 3G TL brakes and maybe to the Pilot), I got 65k and probably could've gone more.
10-05-2009, 12:09 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
I had some noises with my brembos and they kinda bedded themselves into the rotor. There were some marks so I machined my own at my friends shop. The stock brembo pads were a bit squealy under light braking until the pads warmed up which didnt take long. Usually by that time the sound was gone.
10-05-2009, 12:28 PM
#12
Full A-Spec 08 CBP TL-S
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yeah im at 16k and ill need brakes soon, im not using the car much during the week so i say I could get another 6 months out of them, already bought the new pads..... Brembos are expensive!!!!! Ahhh i recall the days of good ol $16duralasts for my 92 Maxima.
10-05-2009, 12:59 PM
#13
but the max- nice a car as it was ( I had one before the TL)--had nowhere near the stopping power of a brembod TL
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