Replacement Axle Brands/Quality
#1
Replacement Axle Brands/Quality
My TL has 104k miles on it now and it's starting to show a little.
First the one caliper needed to be replaced about a year ago and now the axle started clicking on the passenger side.
From my past experience with Honda remanufactured axles I've found that almost none of them are "good." Most would vibrate during acceleration from day 1... I lived with it in the past since I didn't drive that much, but that has changed lately.
Is it worth it to buy the OEM axle ($245) or is there a brand that makes a GOOD and lasting remanufactured version?
First the one caliper needed to be replaced about a year ago and now the axle started clicking on the passenger side.
From my past experience with Honda remanufactured axles I've found that almost none of them are "good." Most would vibrate during acceleration from day 1... I lived with it in the past since I didn't drive that much, but that has changed lately.
Is it worth it to buy the OEM axle ($245) or is there a brand that makes a GOOD and lasting remanufactured version?
#4
Racer
I've had very good results with the "new", not the rebuilt/ reconditioned that Orielly's sells on my family's Acuras & Hondas,
never a click or vibration. Can't remember the brand but you can
look it up on their website, cost is very little more with lifetime
warranty.
Also your car will go for a long time clicking if the boot's not ripped.
never a click or vibration. Can't remember the brand but you can
look it up on their website, cost is very little more with lifetime
warranty.
Also your car will go for a long time clicking if the boot's not ripped.
#5
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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dealer guys say go OEM for the axles. granted they might be biased. they said aftermarket axles won't last and have questionable quality issues esp the ones from china.
i got lucky, my axles were covered by my EW with my insurance. mine wore before 45K...finally replaced with OEM at 50K. the vibration was driving me nuts along with the click.
if you don't plan to keep the car long...you could go with aftermarket replacement...if you are keeping the car awhile...go with quality, ie OEM.
hope this helps.
i got lucky, my axles were covered by my EW with my insurance. mine wore before 45K...finally replaced with OEM at 50K. the vibration was driving me nuts along with the click.
if you don't plan to keep the car long...you could go with aftermarket replacement...if you are keeping the car awhile...go with quality, ie OEM.
hope this helps.
#7
2005 AM at/navi
man now i am also interested in this because my driverside boot has been leaking (very very little) from a really small hole and when i tried looking for it nobody carries the driver side boot and many have told me it is much easier to replace the axle than the boot. i will try orielly's like one member said above.
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#8
OCD
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I would go with http://www.raxles.com/ I have had good experience with them in the past very good quality much better then anything I have every bought locally. They cost a bit more but thats because you are getting a quality product. They are 145 per side I just emailed them recently for this quote.
#9
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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hence that's why i said they were biased. nonetheless, being a chick, they have been quite honest and upfront with me regarding the care of my car. they know i'm particular and they know i'm not the typical clueless girl rolling into the service bay. they actually respect me...now there's a thought. it took a while to find the right service advisor that i genuinely trust. granted i've never had an issue with my dealer. all i have to say, knowledge is power and if you respect and treat them the way you would want to be treated, they'll reciprocate that (as with any service industry).
#10
Suzuka Master
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I would go with http://www.raxles.com/ I have had good experience with them in the past very good quality much better then anything I have every bought locally. They cost a bit more but thats because you are getting a quality product. They are 145 per side I just emailed them recently for this quote.
If you desire a great USA built product over the retail outlets, Raxles is a good place to start.
#11
OCD
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I agree. Replaced my old OEM axles (CLS-6; 120K miles) with Raxles a few months ago. Marty will answer any questions one may have regarding axles etc. and builds them with the dampers if they are on your OEM's.
If you desire a great USA built product over the retail outlets, Raxles is a good place to start.
If you desire a great USA built product over the retail outlets, Raxles is a good place to start.
#12
Raxles is a good option... I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience with their parts. If their price is $145 I'll be ordering through them for sure. Saving about $100 and still getting a quality part sounds like a good option to me.
Thanks for your advice everyone!
Thanks for your advice everyone!
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efrainp (03-14-2016)
#13
Suzuka Master
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Raxles is a good option... I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience with their parts. If their price is $145 I'll be ordering through them for sure. Saving about $100 and still getting a quality part sounds like a good option to me.
Thanks for your advice everyone!
Thanks for your advice everyone!
#14
OCD
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FYI, That sounds like the price with you sending them back your old OEM axles as a core. The core charge when I did mine was $80 per side. Marty will provide UPS labels for the return and you can just place the old axles in the boxes that the new ones arrive in. If your cores are not original OEM axles, they may not take them in return. Call to be sure.
#15
I didn't know when I was going to get to install the axle so I just bought an OEM one along with my 105k mile parts. Turned out to be $200 for a new OEM axle...in my opinion it seemed to be worth the little extra cost for an axle that should last another 100k miles. Hopefully in a few hours it will be installed.
#16
Looking for how-to on replacing axle
I'm looking to replace the passenger side axle on my '04 automatic TL today. I've done a lot of work with civics, integras, and accords before so I think I'll be fine with replacing it after reading the Chilton's on the subject but I just wanted to see if anyone had a DIY/how-to on the subject since I didn't find one with searching and browsing.
My main question is what is the best way to get the suspension pushed out of the way/aside, while I remove the outer joint from the steering knuckle? The manuals always recommend to separate a ball-joint to do so but on all the Honda axle or trans replacements I've done I usually can get away with removing the upper or lower control arm and pushing things aside like that. It looks to me from the diagram that the upper looks hard to "get to" to remove, but I have to get under the car and see if it still looks that way.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
My main question is what is the best way to get the suspension pushed out of the way/aside, while I remove the outer joint from the steering knuckle? The manuals always recommend to separate a ball-joint to do so but on all the Honda axle or trans replacements I've done I usually can get away with removing the upper or lower control arm and pushing things aside like that. It looks to me from the diagram that the upper looks hard to "get to" to remove, but I have to get under the car and see if it still looks that way.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
#20
Racer
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I'm planning to pick up left and right for my 06 and can't decide to give the "new" ones a try from a local parts store, raxles, or just go oem. I can't imagine "new" ones from a parts store being bad. It seems like most places carry the A1Cardone New and remanufactured axles.
#21
Racer
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I just ordered two new axles and decided to go OEM as I found them for $180 a piece. COuldn't justify a savings of $40 and go with raxles or local parts store. Hopefully this will take care of my slight vibration and wobbling issue I've had for the past 12months.
#24
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scratch that...I realized after I placed my order that the part #s provided by the parts guy were for just the joints and not the entire axle. I thought it might be too good to be true. Looks like raxles it is.
#25
Senior Moderator
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Bumping this from the dead. My passenger side axle has gone to Went on Delray's site to check prices for OEM and WTF the prices have risen significantly!! Unless, I'm looking at the wrong part they are now around 520 bucks just for one side!
Raxles....here I come.
Raxles....here I come.
#26
Racer
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I've had good luck with the GSP axles from Advance. I've been running them for the past 4 years without any issues. IIRC, I used a coupon and got the pair for $110 and they had a lifetime warranty. Only thing is, I get a tiny vibration while accelerating around 25 mph, but then it quickly disappears. When I installed them, I noticed that they don't have the vibration damper like the OEM ones did.
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ggesq (03-07-2016)
#27
Suzuka Master
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That's insane....$1100 for both for the 5AT.
DRIVESHAFT - HALF SHAFT for 2006 Acura TL
But then, the 6MT's are only $156 each? Jesus, I'm extra glad I don't have an automatic.
DRIVESHAFT - HALF SHAFT for 2006 Acura TL
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ggesq (03-07-2016)
#28
-------Tim-------
I've had good luck with the GSP axles from Advance. I've been running them for the past 4 years without any issues. IIRC, I used a coupon and got the pair for $110 and they had a lifetime warranty. Only thing is, I get a tiny vibration while accelerating around 25 mph, but then it quickly disappears. When I installed them, I noticed that they don't have the vibration damper like the OEM ones did.
I have heard very good reviews on raxles, although haven't checked their prices....
#29
Senior Moderator
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Tim, 220 with OEM core exchange, 300 with no exchange per side. Spoke to Marty @ Raxles this morning. Nice guy.
#31
I'd recommend axles from Marty at Raxles over anything else. I used other axles before from Rock auto and had the same vibration issue at 25 mph others here are experiencing. After changing the axle to that from Raxles, never had any vibration issues since!
#33
need some help
I've had good luck with the GSP axles from Advance. I've been running them for the past 4 years without any issues. IIRC, I used a coupon and got the pair for $110 and they had a lifetime warranty. Only thing is, I get a tiny vibration while accelerating around 25 mph, but then it quickly disappears. When I installed them, I noticed that they don't have the vibration damper like the OEM ones did.
Quick question, I was wondering if you ran into any issues other than the tiny vibration or got any type of codes such as ABS codes? Because I noticed that these GSP Axles do NOT come with the ABS Rings... what did you have to do about that? My right side (passenger) has been clicking and needs to be replaced but I am not going to spend $520 per side for OEMs so I have been looking at these GSPs and seeing if they're worth it, I can deal with a little vibration if that is the only issue. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
#34
Three Wheelin'
Quick question, I was wondering if you ran into any issues other than the tiny vibration or got any type of codes such as ABS codes? Because I noticed that these GSP Axles do NOT come with the ABS Rings... what did you have to do about that? My right side (passenger) has been clicking and needs to be replaced but I am not going to spend $520 per side for OEMs so I have been looking at these GSPs and seeing if they're worth it, I can deal with a little vibration if that is the only issue. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
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AcuraGuy1059 (04-08-2016)
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Richard1head (05-03-2019)
#37
#38
Racer
iTrader: (2)
Quick question, I was wondering if you ran into any issues other than the tiny vibration or got any type of codes such as ABS codes? Because I noticed that these GSP Axles do NOT come with the ABS Rings... what did you have to do about that? My right side (passenger) has been clicking and needs to be replaced but I am not going to spend $520 per side for OEMs so I have been looking at these GSPs and seeing if they're worth it, I can deal with a little vibration if that is the only issue. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
#39
No issues other than the slight vibration at 25, and they also came with a lifetime warranty. When you install the new driver side axle, make sure to replace the axle seal since it plugs into the side of the transmission. I didn't do this at first, and I noticed I was dripping transmission fluid. As soon as I replaced the seal, it completely fixed the leak.
I think you were the one that mentioned this on a previous post, you were talking about using OEM seals...correct?...