Redline 5W-20/30+Royal Purple Filter users - how many miles do you go before change?
#1
Redline 5W-20/30+Royal Purple Filter users - how many miles do you go before change?
Running the Redline 5W-30 + Royal Purple Filter combo ()
Going on 10k miles right now, (first 1,750 miles were a road trip to the Outer Banks and back).
How far do you feel comfortable going running Redline and a good quality filter? The filter is the bottleneck here obviously.
Over the course of 10k miles, is it okay to have a slightly lower oil level than when your first did an oil change?
Going on 10k miles right now, (first 1,750 miles were a road trip to the Outer Banks and back).
How far do you feel comfortable going running Redline and a good quality filter? The filter is the bottleneck here obviously.
Over the course of 10k miles, is it okay to have a slightly lower oil level than when your first did an oil change?
#2
Burning Brakes
Running the Redline 5W-30 + Royal Purple Filter combo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o02_s00_i00)
Going on 10k miles right now, (first 1,750 miles were a road trip to the Outer Banks and back).
How far do you feel comfortable going running Redline and a good quality filter? The filter is the bottleneck here obviously.
Over the course of 10k miles, is it okay to have a slightly lower oil level than when your first did an oil change?
Going on 10k miles right now, (first 1,750 miles were a road trip to the Outer Banks and back).
How far do you feel comfortable going running Redline and a good quality filter? The filter is the bottleneck here obviously.
Over the course of 10k miles, is it okay to have a slightly lower oil level than when your first did an oil change?
My last change I got roughly 8k miles out of Redline 5W-30 oil w/ RP filter. The shop I called who sells Redline, got my order wrong. They apologized and I needed to get the oil change done so I just bought it and got it done.
Last edited by MandoTL; 10-23-2012 at 12:52 AM.
#4
Instructor
I would go 7500 I know you hit vtec lol
IHC only goes 5000 max and reuses his filter
for me since I go Mobil 1 ep / and purolator synthetic I get oil change around 5000 because I got sweet deal I think Mobil 1 ep Walmart $29.99 / psl advance auto 7$ or so ea with coupon
IHC only goes 5000 max and reuses his filter
for me since I go Mobil 1 ep / and purolator synthetic I get oil change around 5000 because I got sweet deal I think Mobil 1 ep Walmart $29.99 / psl advance auto 7$ or so ea with coupon
#7
Intervals are going to depend greatly on usage, and your particular vehicle to some extent.
Since people don't understand this, you often hear blanket statements that suggest somewhat short intervals. It's hard to change the oil too often, but can get pointlessly costly if you use top end oil and filters.
You need to do a few UOA's with TBN's to start to characterize your vehicles wear patterns. If you do lots of extended highway cruizing, you can typically expect much more out of oil, you just need to start worrying about the filter at very extended intervals.
Since people don't understand this, you often hear blanket statements that suggest somewhat short intervals. It's hard to change the oil too often, but can get pointlessly costly if you use top end oil and filters.
You need to do a few UOA's with TBN's to start to characterize your vehicles wear patterns. If you do lots of extended highway cruizing, you can typically expect much more out of oil, you just need to start worrying about the filter at very extended intervals.
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justnspace (06-04-2013)
#9
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i ran mine close to 8k and had it blacklabs tested and it the reports showed i could have gone longer.
BUT...greatly depends on your driving style, highway/city, climate, altitude, etc.
i still run the above mentioned oil/filter combo and i'm averaging about 7500 no problems.
BUT...greatly depends on your driving style, highway/city, climate, altitude, etc.
i still run the above mentioned oil/filter combo and i'm averaging about 7500 no problems.
#11
Drifting
I was told to follow the MID, I do mostly highway miles with my car. Ive gone 5000 miles now and it reads 40% so ill change it at 7500 miles most likely.
#12
Suzuka Master
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I actually went 12k this past change on Redline 0w-20/Royal Purple filter. I didn't even realize I was that high since I change it every spring and usually only do 8-9k a year. I really wish I'd sent a sample of this last change to Blackstone. Definitely going to do it next time.
BTW, I'm usually down about a half quart at 3k miles. I ordered 7 qts this last time. That's not huge consumption, but I'll probably switch to at least 5w-20 next change and see if that lessens.
BTW, I'm usually down about a half quart at 3k miles. I ordered 7 qts this last time. That's not huge consumption, but I'll probably switch to at least 5w-20 next change and see if that lessens.
#17
Team Owner
I'm not sure I would want a 30 micron stainless filter. That's something more for racing when using a high volume pump, high rpms, and thicker oil.
#18
Racer
That's interesting, Blackstone Labs is in my city but I'd never heard of it until reading these boards. It looks like you pay $25 to test to see if your oil still had life to it? Are the results easy to read?
#20
Team Owner
Use Blackstone for what it's worth but pay no attention to the wear metals section.
Redline being an ester oil will show a low TBN. As long as it's not at 0 it's fine for continued use. It will show higher wear metals especially if it's the first change or two since it cleans well and oxidation shows up as wear metals which is one of the many reasons the wear metals portion is worthless.
The oil retains it's HTHS better over time than just about any other oil. It has a very healthy additive package that's not going away in a 10,000 mile OCI. The filter was designed just for extended OCIs.
The oil and it's additives will go a lot of miles but that's only part of the story. You still have the contaminate load which needs to be dumped periodically. That's why I stick with 5k OCIs even though the oil and filter can go much longer. If I couldn't change it for another several thousand miles for whatever reason, I wouldn't be worried at all.
If you're wanting to go 10,000 miles between changes I wouldn't waste the money on a kit. The oil and filter will do that easily as long as you have nothing wrong with your engine.
Keep in mind that engine turns roughly 6x more revolutions per mile in the city than on the freeway. That's why 10,000 miles is not hard on the oil at all on the freeway but it's a lot around town. Trip duration is another big factor. If the oil is not getting hot enough to burn off contaminates it's not going to last long.
Redline being an ester oil will show a low TBN. As long as it's not at 0 it's fine for continued use. It will show higher wear metals especially if it's the first change or two since it cleans well and oxidation shows up as wear metals which is one of the many reasons the wear metals portion is worthless.
The oil retains it's HTHS better over time than just about any other oil. It has a very healthy additive package that's not going away in a 10,000 mile OCI. The filter was designed just for extended OCIs.
The oil and it's additives will go a lot of miles but that's only part of the story. You still have the contaminate load which needs to be dumped periodically. That's why I stick with 5k OCIs even though the oil and filter can go much longer. If I couldn't change it for another several thousand miles for whatever reason, I wouldn't be worried at all.
If you're wanting to go 10,000 miles between changes I wouldn't waste the money on a kit. The oil and filter will do that easily as long as you have nothing wrong with your engine.
Keep in mind that engine turns roughly 6x more revolutions per mile in the city than on the freeway. That's why 10,000 miles is not hard on the oil at all on the freeway but it's a lot around town. Trip duration is another big factor. If the oil is not getting hot enough to burn off contaminates it's not going to last long.
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DuoDSG (06-10-2013)
#21
Been running Amsoil 0W-20 with an EAO filter since I bought the car with 14k miles. It currently has 138k and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I check it every weekend. I also change the oil every other time the MID hits 0%, which is around 14-15k miles between oil changes. It's run at about 75% highway and 25% city.
#22
Team Owner
The EAO is a great filter but I personally wouldn't do that kind of OCI on that particular oil. Even with their SSO oil I would be a little worried and there would be oil analysis performed at least once during the interval. This is the part I don't understand though, doing a super long interval but paying at least $20 during the interval for an analysis when that would just about buy you a Walmart Mobil One oil change.
#23
Team Owner
Since this thread is a little off topic anyway, maybe this is a good place to ask a few questions. I noticed Redline has changed a couple of their formulations and added a couple "European" oils. The 5w-30 I use now has a 3.7 HTHSV compared to 3.8 previously. It's still very high, no big deal but I'm thinking about changing viscosities.
The 0w-40 has a very high viscosity index of 190 especially considering an HTHS of 4.0. I believe that the HTHS viscosity supersedes kinematic viscosity in importance. So its going to behave somewhat similar at full temp to the old 3.8HTHSV 5w-30. It will be thicker than the 5w-30 at full temp (100c) and at 40c which is a typical summer time starting temp. At 32F the 0w-40 and 5w-30 are very close in viscosity. At 68F the 10w-30 and 0w-40 are nearly identical in viscosity. At 59F the 0w-40 is thinner in viscosity to a 10w-30. So its not that thick and as temps drop, the 0w-40 will eventually be thinner than the 5w-30. The 0w-40 thickens less when cold and thins less when hot.
What I think I can get is better hot protection with equal or better cold start performance. I don't need more protection, this oil is already overkill but sometimes I get bored. I also do a lot of idling which can increase fuel dilution. The car occasionally sees heavily loaded freeway use at times where the additional HTHS is welcome. I mostly do very short trips to work and back, 1.5 miles each way and the last thing I want to do is make things worse. This is the one thing that might stop me from switching.
Judging by the good HTHS, the evil viscosity index improver level has to be pretty low. ZDDP and moly levels look about the same as the 5w-30 which is good. Decisions decisions. Has anyone run this oil in their TL?
The 0w-40 has a very high viscosity index of 190 especially considering an HTHS of 4.0. I believe that the HTHS viscosity supersedes kinematic viscosity in importance. So its going to behave somewhat similar at full temp to the old 3.8HTHSV 5w-30. It will be thicker than the 5w-30 at full temp (100c) and at 40c which is a typical summer time starting temp. At 32F the 0w-40 and 5w-30 are very close in viscosity. At 68F the 10w-30 and 0w-40 are nearly identical in viscosity. At 59F the 0w-40 is thinner in viscosity to a 10w-30. So its not that thick and as temps drop, the 0w-40 will eventually be thinner than the 5w-30. The 0w-40 thickens less when cold and thins less when hot.
What I think I can get is better hot protection with equal or better cold start performance. I don't need more protection, this oil is already overkill but sometimes I get bored. I also do a lot of idling which can increase fuel dilution. The car occasionally sees heavily loaded freeway use at times where the additional HTHS is welcome. I mostly do very short trips to work and back, 1.5 miles each way and the last thing I want to do is make things worse. This is the one thing that might stop me from switching.
Judging by the good HTHS, the evil viscosity index improver level has to be pretty low. ZDDP and moly levels look about the same as the 5w-30 which is good. Decisions decisions. Has anyone run this oil in their TL?
#25
Team Owner
It's based on a lot of factors but it does not "detect" oil quality or the life remaining. It doesnt know what kind of oil you put in it. It's calculated based on lots of things with total engine revolutions (not mileage) and climate and trip length being the big ones.
#26
takin care of Business in
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I am bumping this month old thread....
I think am ready to make a move back to Redline...guess I will be going with RP oil filter....
IHC/Anyone using RP filters, can you confirm the part#? IHC are you not using the filter that fits the S2000?
Royal Purple 10-2808 Oil Filter is for 2006 S2000
Royal Purple 10-2867 Oil Filter is for the 3G TL
Also, I will be bumping up the OCI from 5000 miles to 7500 miles....
Since cams and revving a little bit higher are in the near future, I would like the oil to have a little more ZDDP and Zinc which I think the 5w20 Redline has (more than M1 EP or Penn Ultra) Correct me if I am wrong IHC....
Currently the car has 175K miles on the odometer....here is how the heads look:
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/9224469179_5799803fc6_c.jpg)
![](http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/9224467595_4b3bb54414_c.jpg)
Finally, IHC have you take a look at the RP Racing oil?
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/produ...xpr-racing-oil
I am hearing mixed opinions about it....I am not a fan of the oil but they have some nice additives to it...
I think am ready to make a move back to Redline...guess I will be going with RP oil filter....
IHC/Anyone using RP filters, can you confirm the part#? IHC are you not using the filter that fits the S2000?
Royal Purple 10-2808 Oil Filter is for 2006 S2000
Royal Purple 10-2867 Oil Filter is for the 3G TL
Also, I will be bumping up the OCI from 5000 miles to 7500 miles....
Since cams and revving a little bit higher are in the near future, I would like the oil to have a little more ZDDP and Zinc which I think the 5w20 Redline has (more than M1 EP or Penn Ultra) Correct me if I am wrong IHC....
Currently the car has 175K miles on the odometer....here is how the heads look:
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/9224469179_5799803fc6_c.jpg)
![](http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/9224467595_4b3bb54414_c.jpg)
Finally, IHC have you take a look at the RP Racing oil?
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/produ...xpr-racing-oil
I am hearing mixed opinions about it....I am not a fan of the oil but they have some nice additives to it...
#27
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Royal Purple 10-2867 Oil Filter
^that is what you want swoosh.
pep boys has them locally, for around $13.
^that is what you want swoosh.
pep boys has them locally, for around $13.
#28
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Aaron, I have been using a S2000 filter since it is a little big bigger than the TL filter...I never questioned when Inaccurate told me to go that route....
Since am switching to RP, am thinking of switching to the same (S2000) RP filter....which is the 2808 model....I thought IHC was using the same and hence wanted his views before I end up buying either or....
Amazon Prime has it for 13.49 and free shipping and no tax
Since am switching to RP, am thinking of switching to the same (S2000) RP filter....which is the 2808 model....I thought IHC was using the same and hence wanted his views before I end up buying either or....
Amazon Prime has it for 13.49 and free shipping and no tax
![Woot](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/woot.gif)
#29
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AMAZON PRIME FTMFW!!!
![Rock On](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rockon.gif)
#30
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#31
Either filter will work fine, and you won't notice any difference.
FYI: I saw a video interview where the owner of Spoon Motorsports (Japanese semi-OEM Honda tuner company) mentioned that they only use the smaller filters due to a reduction in oil-pressure fluctuation (from the can swelling). On top of that they always run a hose clamp around the filter can to increase it's rigidity. Of course this on 9000rpm road-race motors.
Anyone have any input on this?
FYI: I saw a video interview where the owner of Spoon Motorsports (Japanese semi-OEM Honda tuner company) mentioned that they only use the smaller filters due to a reduction in oil-pressure fluctuation (from the can swelling). On top of that they always run a hose clamp around the filter can to increase it's rigidity. Of course this on 9000rpm road-race motors.
Anyone have any input on this?
#32
How does the rear head look? I know these motors vent the PCV fumes through the front cylinder head. I believe the brown-ness is caused by a buildup of hot fumes in the venting head. My wife's 04 Pilot had the exact same dark coloring in only the rear Cyl-head which is where that older J-series motor vented it's PCV fumes.
Last edited by 94eg!; 07-12-2013 at 04:04 PM.
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