Reading up on Transmission Fluid Change has gotten me confused!
Reading up on Transmission Fluid Change has gotten me confused!
Ok, so I have a 2004 Acura TL that I bought a little over 1.5 years ago and I've done my oil changes every 6k miles and I bought the car with 65k miles and now I have 106k miles. Accessory belt is making the squeal so I'm taking it to my mechanic to have timing belt, coolant, water pump, accessory belt, transmission fluid and spark plugs changed. I have NEVER done a transmission fluid change on my car and my car always shifts hard but I thought that was normal until I've been reading up on how often people change their transmission fluid. My mechanic said he might use a machine, however from reading I believe that is not the best solution? I also read that if your car has more than 100k miles on it you should do the 3x3 method. So should I just do a simple drain and fill? I also was thinking of using RedLine however, many here believe Acura's ATF is better? What should i do about my transimssion? Should I get Acura's ATF and do a simple drain and fill? or is the 3x3 method the best? Can using a machine potentially harm my transmission?
Ok, so I have a 2004 Acura TL that I bought a little over 1.5 years ago and I've done my oil changes every 6k miles and I bought the car with 65k miles and now I have 106k miles. Accessory belt is making the squeal so I'm taking it to my mechanic to have timing belt, coolant, water pump, accessory belt, transmission fluid and spark plugs changed. I have NEVER done a transmission fluid change on my car and my car always shifts hard but I thought that was normal until I've been reading up on how often people change their transmission fluid. My mechanic said he might use a machine, however from reading I believe that is not the best solution? I also read that if your car has more than 100k miles on it you should do the 3x3 method. So should I just do a simple drain and fill? I also was thinking of using RedLine however, many here believe Acura's ATF is better? What should i do about my transimssion? Should I get Acura's ATF and do a simple drain and fill? or is the 3x3 method the best? Can using a machine potentially harm my transmission?
Your best bet is to change it at least once and see how the car reacts. The problem is that if in 100K miles if the fluid has never been changed that clutch particles are in the fluid, and those are helping the transmission shift without slipping. However if you remove them all then the transmission might start slipping. Doing it once will remove about 1/3 of any stuff in it, however it'll help provide some lubrication to the parts that need it.
If the car stays shifting well, or they improve (wait about a week), then change it once more and see how the car reacts. If it reacts well or if the shifting improves then change it once more, now about 60% of the fluid will have been changed.
Doing it a third time in such a short period with that many miles may cause an issue, just wait and see how the car reacts and post back with the results.
Using the Acura maintenance schedule, 100,000 mile change is the recommended change interval, so contrary to the belief of the transmission exploding, do the change and you'll have no problems. Have done it many, many times with cars well over 100K, and even 200K, and no problems.
My mechanic said he might use a machine, however from reading I believe that is not the best solution? I also read that if your car has more than 100k miles on it you should do the 3x3 method. So should I just do a simple drain and fill?
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Should I get Acura's ATF and do a simple drain and fill? or is the 3x3 method the best? Can using a machine potentially harm my transmission?
...
Should I get Acura's ATF and do a simple drain and fill? or is the 3x3 method the best? Can using a machine potentially harm my transmission?
+1 on the 1 x 3 drain-and-fill to see how things go, too.
hello all, just went to my mechanic and got my whole service done today. He did a simple drain and flush. I am surprised by how uninformed the service technicians at Acura of Denville are. First off, the guy never heard of a 3x3 method. Then he said I only needed 3 quarts of Honda's ATF if I'm doing a drain and flush. Turns out when I got to my mechanic I need 12. Car seems to drive and idle the same. By the way, Timing belt, water pump, Spark Plugs replaced with NGK, transmission flush, and accessory belt replaced all for $636. Is that a decent price?
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Delta, I changed my transmission oil by doing the 3x3 method at 107k miles and it helped the shift of my car. Make sure to measure the oil you drain because I overfilled my transmission and when it down shifted pretty hard. Also, hard shift can be related to motor mounts, have some one sit on your car, engage the emergency break and hold the break and then accelerate a bit to sit how much the motor moves, do this in reverse and drive. It shouldnt move more than 2 inches from what the acura tech told me if i remember right. If your doing the timing belt then its the best time to replace the mounts since they have to disconnect the motor from the mount to do this. I paid about $800 except spark plugs.
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if u guys can change your own oil then you can also do the transmission oil change. it's the same exact thing except with 2 different bolts, one in the driver's side engine bay and one underneath the car.
He did a simple drain and flush. I am surprised by how uninformed the service technicians at Acura of Denville are.
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Car seems to drive and idle the same. By the way, Timing belt, water pump, Spark Plugs replaced with NGK, transmission flush, and accessory belt replaced all for $636. Is that a decent price?
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Car seems to drive and idle the same. By the way, Timing belt, water pump, Spark Plugs replaced with NGK, transmission flush, and accessory belt replaced all for $636. Is that a decent price?
Unfortunate to hear about the lack of knowledge of the "service techs" though.

You got a great price on that B4/105K service w/timing belt and water pump! It's usually $1400+ at the dealer and close to $1000 at many independent shops.
did they replace the tensioner pullies for the timing belt? thats really important to make it another 100kmiles IMO, and shops try to save you money (get the job thru low quote)by not replacing those,,,months later one goes and its new engine time
Ive never heard of replacing motor mounts unless its broken
the dealer tech doesnt know 3x3 because the book says you only need to do that IF you added Dextron3 fluid to top off fluid level `in an emergency`
Why you would need trans fluid (major leak problem) and still be able to drive it is beyond me,,, but thats what they say
In order to remove all 7.3 qts of the now contaminated fluid- you must drain and refill 3 times (with 5 minute drive between to force old fluid forward to drain point)= 12 qts
For normal service of trans acura says drain and refill 3 qts is all you need- at least to satisfy warranty
Ive never heard of replacing motor mounts unless its broken
the dealer tech doesnt know 3x3 because the book says you only need to do that IF you added Dextron3 fluid to top off fluid level `in an emergency`
Why you would need trans fluid (major leak problem) and still be able to drive it is beyond me,,, but thats what they say
In order to remove all 7.3 qts of the now contaminated fluid- you must drain and refill 3 times (with 5 minute drive between to force old fluid forward to drain point)= 12 qts
For normal service of trans acura says drain and refill 3 qts is all you need- at least to satisfy warranty

Are you really sure that he installed a new water pump, new plugs, etc ? That price is way too good to be believable.
yeah, i've been going to him for years so I trust him. I stopped by and they had to take the right wheel off and I guess that's how they access the timing belt? It took 2 people to work on it and about 6 hrs. I'm not sure about tensioner and pulleys. When I asked the acura dealer whether they replace those and they said no. So idk what justifies the $1350 price. However, I thought it would fix a moaning problem that I was getting however, after during a search on this forum, it was the power steering O ring. I just replaced the O-Ring today myself and hopefully tomorrow on a cold engine I won't hear it.
hey guys after week of my service, I noticed this morning that I was barely getting heat in my car. I cranked it to high. It was 25 degrees, I remote started my car for 10-15 min and it was blowing luke warm air. I'm worried it may have to do something with my coolant?
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