Race track fail.
07-17-2011, 11:54 AM
#1
Race track fail.
So yesterday I took my car (05, manual transmission, Aspec) to a race track for the first time. Being my first time at a race track I was extremely nervous, but I focused on shifting as smoothly and precise as possible. So...I turned off VSA, and I proceeded to do a little burn out to heat things up... immediately the adrenaline rushed in. Then I pull up to the start line, and rev my engine to about 5k rpms with the clutch pressed down. As soon as the light turns green, I popped the clutch and floored it! It took off like a beast; HOWEVER, when I shifted to 2nd, the rpms stayed at 7k and wouldn't take 2nd, then I shifted to 3rd and nothing, then finally it took 4th. Needless to say that time I did the 1/8th in 12+ seconds (major embarrassment). Then I pull up again with VSA turned on, AND I DID NOT BURN OUT BEFORE, and my car ran a 9.75 with my 250 pounds brother riding with me and a full tank of gas! victory!!-Then I tried again with VSA turned off and the same thing happens, as if the clutch stuck but the pedal didn't stick to the floor. I am amused at why the hell this would happen. On the way back my car drove perfect on the interstate so I don't believe that it is a clutch issue. Please if anyone can give me an idea of what is going on I would appreciate it. I am mortified about the thought of going to another race track 
I know my car can do better
I know my car can do better
07-17-2011, 12:44 PM
#5
Team Owner
Your first couple runs should be conservative. Don't go for the best launch or the quickest shifts, just roll off the line and floor it and concentrate on reasonably quick shifts at redline. Going crazy your first time at a track usually results in terrible times. My first time at the track in my bone stock car at 17yrs old was a 16.4@101mph smoking the tires badly. Luckily we rented the track so I had 20+ runs and burned through a whole tank of gas. I hit the 15s in 2 more runs, 14s all day, and the last 3 runs were 13.90s. No changes to the car, just learning how to drive it and calming down.
What you did on your bad runs is a mind game I used to play when racing people with quicker cars. I would talk trash about how they better beat me off the line or they have no chance or my car is all top end so they better make the shifts quick. You would be surprised how many people would screw up because they got nervous.
Cliffs notes: Take it easy, have fun, and once you're consistant, start trying to go faster.
What you did on your bad runs is a mind game I used to play when racing people with quicker cars. I would talk trash about how they better beat me off the line or they have no chance or my car is all top end so they better make the shifts quick. You would be surprised how many people would screw up because they got nervous.
Cliffs notes: Take it easy, have fun, and once you're consistant, start trying to go faster.
The following 2 users liked this post by I hate cars:
crazyasiantl (07-17-2011),
justnspace (07-17-2011)
07-17-2011, 12:45 PM
#6
Team Owner
07-17-2011, 12:46 PM
#7
The clutch wouldn't give two cents if the VSA was on or off. The ecu, abs and the engine will, but not the clutch.
Really no way for the clutch to be toast one minute with the VSA off and then be fine the rest of the day with the VSA on. What probably happened is with the VSA on, it recognized the wheel spin when he dropped his clutch and did it's usual momentary power cut to keep traction going to the front wheels. And without the VSA, he just didn't have the feel keep the traction up while launching and shifting.
Plus I know my tranny hated the slave cylinder check valve thing and would make really long,lazy shifts from redline sometimes on track (usually into 4th or 5th), could be some of that in there too.
Really no way for the clutch to be toast one minute with the VSA off and then be fine the rest of the day with the VSA on. What probably happened is with the VSA on, it recognized the wheel spin when he dropped his clutch and did it's usual momentary power cut to keep traction going to the front wheels. And without the VSA, he just didn't have the feel keep the traction up while launching and shifting.
Plus I know my tranny hated the slave cylinder check valve thing and would make really long,lazy shifts from redline sometimes on track (usually into 4th or 5th), could be some of that in there too.
Last edited by vill0169; 07-17-2011 at 12:54 PM.
Trending Topics
07-17-2011, 03:30 PM
#10
Your first couple runs should be conservative. Don't go for the best launch or the quickest shifts, just roll off the line and floor it and concentrate on reasonably quick shifts at redline. Going crazy your first time at a track usually results in terrible times. My first time at the track in my bone stock car at 17yrs old was a 16.4@101mph smoking the tires badly. Luckily we rented the track so I had 20+ runs and burned through a whole tank of gas. I hit the 15s in 2 more runs, 14s all day, and the last 3 runs were 13.90s. No changes to the car, just learning how to drive it and calming down.
What you did on your bad runs is a mind game I used to play when racing people with quicker cars. I would talk trash about how they better beat me off the line or they have no chance or my car is all top end so they better make the shifts quick. You would be surprised how many people would screw up because they got nervous.
Cliffs notes: Take it easy, have fun, and once you're consistant, start trying to go faster.
What you did on your bad runs is a mind game I used to play when racing people with quicker cars. I would talk trash about how they better beat me off the line or they have no chance or my car is all top end so they better make the shifts quick. You would be surprised how many people would screw up because they got nervous.
Cliffs notes: Take it easy, have fun, and once you're consistant, start trying to go faster.
The clutch wouldn't give two cents if the VSA was on or off. The ecu, abs and the engine will, but not the clutch.
Really no way for the clutch to be toast one minute with the VSA off and then be fine the rest of the day with the VSA on. What probably happened is with the VSA on, it recognized the wheel spin when he dropped his clutch and did it's usual momentary power cut to keep traction going to the front wheels. And without the VSA, he just didn't have the feel keep the traction up while launching and shifting.
Plus I know my tranny hated the slave cylinder check valve thing and would make really long,lazy shifts from redline sometimes on track (usually into 4th or 5th), could be some of that in there too.
Really no way for the clutch to be toast one minute with the VSA off and then be fine the rest of the day with the VSA on. What probably happened is with the VSA on, it recognized the wheel spin when he dropped his clutch and did it's usual momentary power cut to keep traction going to the front wheels. And without the VSA, he just didn't have the feel keep the traction up while launching and shifting.
Plus I know my tranny hated the slave cylinder check valve thing and would make really long,lazy shifts from redline sometimes on track (usually into 4th or 5th), could be some of that in there too.
07-17-2011, 07:45 PM
#11
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Not really sure what's going on here, but first off, you cannot launch a 6MT TL at 5k on street tires. You need to play with the rpm's a bit and slip the clutch, but nothing over 3.5k on street tires for sure. Depending on track conditions, I'd start at 2.5k and work up in 250 rpm increments.
Secondly, your 250 lb brother riding shotgun is really going to hurt your times/trap speeds.
Secondly, your 250 lb brother riding shotgun is really going to hurt your times/trap speeds.
07-18-2011, 10:55 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
I don't think there's anything wrong with your clutch. I think what you're experiencing was bad wheelspin, probably a one-tire fire. It can feel exactly like a slipping clutch and if the tire(s) are spinning so badly, it's hard to gain traction if you keep your foot in it. I've experienced this with my old Maxima and automatic G35. Sometimes you hit some oil or coolant on the track and that will spin the tires as well. If it happens again, just get out of the throttle. The run is wasted and there's no sense in risking damage to the car.
First rule in drag racing:
1) Friends and family stay in the stands. You came out to run a best.
2) Never pop or very quickly release the clutch, especially on street tires and high rpms. This launch techique can result in excessive wheel spin; significant wheel hop which can snap a half-shaft or take out a mount; a snapped half-shaft right a launch; and/or a smoked clutch. If you shock drivetrain, it will shock and spin the tires badly.
3) When you're first starting out, start with a low rpm launch. Something like a 2000rpms. The best way I've found to launch on street tires with FWD is to bring the rpms up and release the clutch right up until the catch point. When it's time to go, release the clutch to the point that you feel the car start to roll. Then fairly quickly release the clutch while feeding the gas to keep the rpms up. Don't go WOT until the tires are catching. Sometimes you won't be able to use full throttle until the very top of 1st.
Once you master this technique, you'll be able to keep increasing launch rpm and improving 60 foot consistency. I was able to launch my open diff 96 Maxima 5MT on balding Goodyear RSAs at 5000rpms. The car would come off the line close to 3000-3500rpms, spin and tramp a bit, and pull mid 2.1ish 60 foots. If I dumped the clutch, even at 2500rpms, it would blow the tires off and result in 2.4-2.5 60 foots. It takes practice.
First rule in drag racing:
1) Friends and family stay in the stands. You came out to run a best.
2) Never pop or very quickly release the clutch, especially on street tires and high rpms. This launch techique can result in excessive wheel spin; significant wheel hop which can snap a half-shaft or take out a mount; a snapped half-shaft right a launch; and/or a smoked clutch. If you shock drivetrain, it will shock and spin the tires badly.
3) When you're first starting out, start with a low rpm launch. Something like a 2000rpms. The best way I've found to launch on street tires with FWD is to bring the rpms up and release the clutch right up until the catch point. When it's time to go, release the clutch to the point that you feel the car start to roll. Then fairly quickly release the clutch while feeding the gas to keep the rpms up. Don't go WOT until the tires are catching. Sometimes you won't be able to use full throttle until the very top of 1st.
Once you master this technique, you'll be able to keep increasing launch rpm and improving 60 foot consistency. I was able to launch my open diff 96 Maxima 5MT on balding Goodyear RSAs at 5000rpms. The car would come off the line close to 3000-3500rpms, spin and tramp a bit, and pull mid 2.1ish 60 foots. If I dumped the clutch, even at 2500rpms, it would blow the tires off and result in 2.4-2.5 60 foots. It takes practice.
The following users liked this post:
TylerT (07-18-2011)
07-18-2011, 11:02 AM
#13
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
^ Couldn't have said it better myself.
Launching FWD with slick track conditions is no easy task.
Launching FWD with slick track conditions is no easy task.
07-18-2011, 11:34 AM
#14
Probably depends on the track and the liability. I know that here in Tucson at SIR passengers are allowed. They just have to sign the waiver form like the driver does and they will get the wristband. I have raced with my dad in the car! Much fun. Really didn't see any difference in the time either. Granted he only weighs 160lbs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
emailnatec
5G TLX Tires, Wheels & Suspension
29
09-28-2018 04:27 PM
lanechanger
Member Cars for Sale
4
10-13-2015 10:56 AM
