westas2

I am replacing pads and brake fluid this weekend on my 04 6MT. Does anyone know what size tubing I need to attach to the bleed screw? Tech manual does not contain info and a quick call to Acura didn't help either. I saw a post that mentioned 1/8", does that sound right?

01tl4tl

iirc its 1/4 id but a quick look will tell you
The bleed order is LF driver front, then RF RR LR
and do the outer bleeder then the inner on the front brakes

westas2

Thanks 01tl4tl - you posts are always very helpful. I plan on using your bleed method described in a different thread.

01tl4tl

Its not my method- thats per Acura shop book and must be followed

I think its the same tubing as fish tank air pump, ask at the parts store
I have a few different sizes on hand for different cars and the bike, and none are marked with size-sorry

Clear tubing will make the job easier- just to be able to see the new clean fluid coming thru

On the back of the Brembo calipers are 2 allen head bolts- do NOT touch those- they hold the caliper together!!!!, To remove caliper its just 2 normal bolts
Never hurts to pull the rotor off and grease the rotor to hub center hole- prevents sticking in a few years.

Trew

iTrader: (1)

Interesting that Acura would have this method. I was taught to always start with the bleeder furthest away from the Master Cylinder, and work my way toward it.

Any idea why Acura recommends the opposite?

Adobeman

FWIW/ - I used one of those one man vacuum bleeders to do mine. A bit of a pain to keep emptying it's collection chamber but I really didn't want to be pushing the break master cylinder past it's usual stroke. If you do pump the breaks to bleed I'd resist the temptation to push it to the floor. I'm in the camp that says you will be pushing the seals through potentially corroded bore.

And, don't forget to bleed the clutch. A vacuum setup is really helpful there (wouldn't use the pump method for a clutch).

01tl4tl

The special bleed order is because the ABS system and how its plumbed with lines going across and back and thru a controller- all things nowhere near the Master-
cars are way different than when I first turned a wrench!
No other order/method works- end of story

Since you are not bleeding, but rather just flushing the old fluid out- its a really easy job.
For safety of the seals (if smartest helper not available)- place a small piece of 2x4 under the brake pedal to limit its travel to 3/4, like a normal brake stroke

The clutch master is designed to work farther- to the floor, so thats ok on its flushing

IMO on TLs - it takes 1 master cyl full to flush each brake caliper fully, then refill and move on. I tried a vac bleeder and the 4 oz container was too much hassle

What I use is a turkey baster to remove MOST -not all the old fluid- do not uncover the holes on the brake line fittings or air gets in- now its a bigger job~
If you place a few shop rags around/under the master and hold a plastic drink bottle next to it- then suck old fluid out -immediatly transfer to bottle and repeat several times till level is low-now gently pour in new fluid- do NOT shake the bottle !!!
The new fluid will sit on top of the old and push the old forward as it makes its way thru the system

DO flush the fluid BEFORE brake job so you dont backwash old crud in the lines
Leave the master at half full after flush- then do brake job- as you push the pistons in, the fluid level will rise
Top off Master as needed when done
Cap Master tightly after each refill, also cap new fluid bottle or it will get knocked over for sure
DOT3 or DOT4 fluid for street drivers,,,5.1 for racers
I buy 1 qt, 2 to be safe- and have extra to do helpers car in return~

Trew

iTrader: (1)

Dude, I agree with this one thousand percent! Like 01tl4tl said, I usually put something under the brake pedal to prevent full stroke when bleeding with a buddy.

I NEVER allow fluid to get pushed back into the master. What I do when retracting caliper pistons is take a screwdriver and put it between the old pad and the rotor and pry. While prying, I will open the bleeder and allow the pressurized fluid to escape. Then I close the bleeder valve while still applying prying force to the caliper, and finally release the pressure when the bleeder is completely shut. After that, a quick 30 second gravity bleed will get any air that might have gotten in, out.

westas2

Thanks for all the info. Saturday will be a busy day:

1. Change transmission fluid to GM synchro (oddly enough purchased from my Acura dealer).
2. Change brake fluid
3. Install EBC Ultimax pads

Since I am replacing the brake fluid and not bleeding, do I still need to have brake fluid in the container that I am draining the old fluid into?

Adobeman

You mean the container on at the end of the tubing connected to the bleeder nipple ? If so then yes. That minimizes the possibility of air being sucked back through the tubing into the caliper when your assistant is pumping the pedal.

Also, make sure you keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder reservoir. It will suck big time if you let it go dry during the bleeding.

mmade22

Great advice everyone. 6MT owners need to bleed there brakes once a year. The Brembos hold so much fluid in them, that the fluid gets hot a lot and breaks down quicker. Better safe than sorry!

Adobeman

What am I missing ? More fluid volume should absorb more energy for a given temp increase than a smaller volume. That would lead me to believe that for the same driving methods the Brembos would stay cooler inside. Not only since there is more fluid but since the calipers are bigger and the swept area is a bit larger. Plus there is negligible weight difference between the TLs with and without the Brembos.

Are you assuming we all push our MTs or TL-S that much harder than the other versions ? Or what am I missing.

I absolutely agree all brakes should be flushed periodically but just don't follow your logic of why Brembos need any more than a usual 2 or 3 year schedule. "Better safe than sorry" is OK but cause it's cheap enough to do but where's the science ?

01tl4tl

Acura book schedule says start brake fluid change at year 3 and then every year forever
Many things heat brake fluid- and moisture gets in- which is the real threat, and reason I talk about backwashing crud and how to avoid at all cost!
Even using the open the bleeder trick still allows crud to get pushed up the line and around the oring seals inside- rather that push it out first~

Its just safer to flush it all out-
then if you want to follow the real brembo factory directions- you need to cycle the pistons all the way in and back most of the way out- then back all the way in---to keep everything supple--once a year!!!!
And use the right tool to expand push the pistons in (or open the bleeder)

01tl4tl

btw- backwashing brake fluid would hit the abs controller before the master cyl- that sucker is a over a $grand! and not something you want any micro sized rust particles getting into.

Wiki -- hygroscopic
for the scientific explanantion of whats happening to brake fluid
It also occurs in the other fluids- but they all get to circulate and get heated to remove moisture- the brake fluid moves a few MM with the pedal motion, and then returns to its original position

westas2

Finished the job, everything went pretty well. Thanks for all the info. There was some serious crud in the old brake fluid. Had a slight problem with the inside bleeder valve on the passenger side. I think it was cross threaded or something. Tightened it up and still had fluid coming out when brakes were applied. Had to really really torque it down to get it to stop. Front pads were SUPER easy. About to go for a drive and see how the tranny feels with the new synchromesh fluid.........

01tl4tl

When you open the bleeder-its about 1/4 to 1/2 turn only- and as fast as you can get it open, the fluid should come out and you are immediatly reversing direction and closing the valve.

If it was cross threaded there would be fluid still coming out.
We should add to the DIY- clean area on top of bleeder nipple and surrounding area where it goes into the caliper with brake cleaner
Any grit can get into the threads and cause a problem

I get the bleeder open and closed once, so I know its working and how it tightens up, then have the helper pump the pedal 3-5 times and hold..