mn2trance

I'm having a problem trying to figure out how these things are suppose to be installed. I had purchased 2 resistors that look exactly like this http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf. I don't know where the blue part is suppose to be connected to. Am I suppose to hook one end where the resistor is already cut and then snap it into the wires? Or am I suppose to snap those blue things to an uncut part of wire and then put the T-Taps at the end of the part that's been cut?

I've found the thread on how to install these in the car, but not been able to find one that actually shows you how to connect them in the beginning . . . if that makes sense.

powerflow

I'm confused too. The linked document shows how to wire and connect.

Personally I wouldn't use those in line, push Taps. I would solder, or use crush connectors.

Be careful where you mount these. If you ever leave the hazard flasher/blinkers on for a longer duration of time, for an emergency situation for example, these resistors get super, super crazy hot. So hot, they can easily melt stuff.

mn2trance

I'm glad I'm not the only one. By looking at the diagram, it looks like the end where it's already been cut goes in one end, then you'd place the blue part over the wire that needs to be connected to and then snap everything shut. However, if I do that, wouldn't that cut into the wire when the diagram said not to do so in the first place? Thus, my confusion.

And I plan to mount these with velcros to the metal part of the car. Hopefully, they won't get too hot where it'll melt the glue from the velcro as these are the 50 watts 3 Ohm ones.

EVOLICARUS

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637923

powerflow

It says do not cut, since your only tapping into the wire, not cutting/ re-routing it.

That wire only needs to pass through the push tap.

They probably think dump people will jump the gun, and just start cutting up the wire. Seems like a "dump ass disclaimer" so to say.

mn2trance

^ Yeah, that's the one I had referenced with my install, but he has a different resistor than I do and he had used T-Taps whereas the ones I had gotten had included those blue things. Am I suppose to snap the turn signal wires and resistor wires in all at once or am I suppose to snap the wire from the resistor to the blue thing first and then unsnap them to snap the turn signal wires in?

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

4 Resistors?!!!

powerflow

I wouldn't use Velcro either. I've seen how hot these things get.

I would only mount to metal in a safe area.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

See how there are two "grooves" in the blue tap. One of those "grooves" does not go all the way through, the other one does, lay the wire from the resistor in the "groove" that does NOT go all the way through, lay the vehicle wire in the "groove" that DOES go all the way through, Close the top and press the metal down with pliers and then close with the cover.

I would put some electrical tape over it as well

Got it?

mn2trance

No . . . only 2. One on each side.
Yeah, but that would mean drilling and I don't have one of those nor do I want to drill into my car again. Having to do that when I had installed the lip spoiler was painful enough.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Self Tapping screws?

mn2trance

OK . . . thanks. I was thinking along that line, but the disclaimer of the install threw me off.

One more thing. I saw in your How To that you said to tap into the black with silver dashes and white with silver dashes on the passenger side. However, I see 2 black with silver dashes . . . one is a single dash whereas the other one has 2 silver dashes on it. Do you remember if yours has that?

Trew

iTrader: (1)

that diagram is very easy and straight forward.

The T-Taps have 2 sections:
1 for the existing vehicle wire (turn signal) that goes into the tap,
1 that accomodates the resistor wire. Connect the resistor to the section that does not go all the way through the tap.

Once both are placed in the tap, then squeeze the metal piece with a pliers. There is no need to cut any wires when using a tap. the metal piece will shave off the insulation and make contact with the bare wire without you having to cut anything.

Lastly, don't even think of using velcro or double-sided tape to mount these. get yourself a small self-threading screw and screw the resistor into a metal panel, ensuring that no wires, upholstery or anything else can make contact with the resistor. The metal to metal contact will help dissipate the heat generated by the resistor.

Trew

iTrader: (1)

thanks Fulani. I like your explanation better - lol

mn2trance

Thanks for the explanation. When I saw the metal part protruding out, I thought it would cut into the wire, not splice it. I'll pick up some self tapping screws afterwards. Thanks again Fulani and Trew.

powerflow

To install screws, you will need to drill. Self tapping screws will only self tap threads, not actually drill through the metal efficiently.

Get a marker, center punch, hammer, drill and a drill bit. Mark where to drill the hole. Punch a slight divot on the mark, to guide the drill bit. Then drill the hole on the divot.

01tl4tl

drill a smaller hole than the screw you are putting in
a piece of masking tape on the metal to be drilled -keeps the drill bit from skipping around

01tl4tl

if you do get stuck at a long left turn stoplight-turn off the turn signal-
the person behind you WILL appreciate it--go take a look at how bright LEDS really are

and it keeps the heat down in the resistor

mn2trance

Woo hoo!!!! Load resistors have been installed and no more hyper flashing! Thanks again to everyone! I will have to do the drilling at a friend's house who has more power tools than I do.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

I think, it was the one with the single dashes. Best way to make sure, look at the wires that go into the connector right by the turn signal bulb, what color are those? Thats what you want

NVM you already got it