I have a one month old '05 SSM TL 5AT and have gotten in the habit of religiously applying the parking brake before I shift to Park and lift my foot off the brake pedal. All of the time, the car tends to roll a little bit before the brake catches (or at least that is what I hope is catching). I've asked the dealer to look at it and they said that no adjustments were needed. On my other cars, whenever I do that, they don't budge when I remove my foot from the brake pedal.

Anybody else have this problem?

I've already had to replace a transmission on a 98 blazer (due to similar problems - which is where I learned my lesson) and don't want to risk being in the same situation when the 100k warranty that I have expires (which is when the blazer tranny went south - after warranty expiration).

Thanks.

 

i noticed this too.... its normal in a way.... when your foot is on the brake pedal all of the calipers are closed on the rotors... so you pull up on the ebrake, think you have adaquate pressure and take your foot off the brake.... but as soon as the brakes release, and the fronts are no longer holding the car just the rear... they may need a little additional pressure to hold the car... just pull up a little harder.... its normal, mine does it to....

 

Thanks...I'll try a little more elbow grease next time....

 

I was surprised my 5AT's parking brake was not strong enough to hold the car on my driveway (rather steep). My previous MT cars would hold, even in neutral, though I wouldn't rely on it. I asked the dealer why my TL can still roll, even with a good tug on the handbrake and he said it was normal. Whatever.

 

you know, i do the same thing...after some time, i just felt that my parking brake got a little "loose"....does anyone have a problem similar to this? i found this out when i test drove a TL loaner....the loaner's parking brake was very strong (lot of resistance) when i lifted it up...on my car, there is less resistance...?????

 

I did the same thing since I learned how to drive. I guess ONAGER said it right. All my cars in the past would do like this. Somtimes I have to pull it higher in order to park on the slope, I think this is normal, too, as long as I don't over-tighten the brake... IMO.

 

That technique will prevent "torque lock" of the auto transmission. It eliminates the hard shift out of park when on an incline.

My 04 Tahoe has a section on torque lock in the owner's manual and advises it when parking on an incline to prevent wear on the transmission.

JZ

 

IMHO, I think you're talking something else... or I misunderstood what viper-tl said above. The tech new Tahoe provides is pretty good and save the Park gear since most of ppl in states never utilize the e-brake properly. Park-gear is their best stopper when parking.




viper-tl, you said "...applying the parking brake before I shift to Park and lift my foot off the brake pedal...".
Did you
1. apply the e-brake -> life foot off the brake pedal -> shift to Park?
or
2. apply the e-brake -> shift to Park -> lift foot off the brake pedal?

#1 will have your car weight relied on the e-brake. You will feel car "move down" when on the incline.

But, #2 could still have your Park gear worn.

What ONAGER explained above is more about #1 situation.

 

or if you have a manual and no park.... then again you could put it in gear.... make sure you put it in a gear opposite to the way it would roll too....

 

To me, you should let the car rest on the e-brake, then put the car in park. An e-brake cable is much less out of pocket to replace, compared to a tranny.

 

It's a great habbit to get into, In the TL you need to yank... that e-brake.

 

The park brake is actualy a little drum brake in the rear brake rotors. When you release the regular brakes the wheels will turn a little until the drum shoes rest on their mechanical stops.

 

I complained about this to Acura HQ in writing a while back (the dealer tried other cars in the lot and found they all worked the same), I found the roll was more evident when on a downhill slope (nose pointing down), where I found the car to rest on the parking gear of tranny before the parking brake (e brake) engaged, which I did not like at all, placing all that stress on the tranny and drive shafts (the car weight when on a down hill).

They even adjusted the parking brake 3 times to no avail.

Finally the regional told me not to worry about it, and that is what the parking gear is for. If you ask me, I think he was just giving me the brush off on this bigger problem.

The interesting thing was that when I drove the TSX loaner, it held tight, no roll, other cars were the same, it was just the TL that had an issue, IMO the TL has a tolerance issue that allows too much roll before the parking brakes catch.

I parked everyday on a downhill at work, and not believing the regional, I switched to the inconvenient method of setting the parking brake (if it worked right, I could have just set it and forget it):

1. Put car in neutral with foot on brake.

2. Apply parking brake and release brakes, let car roll and parking brake catch.

3. Apply brakes and shift car into Park

This allowed the parking brakes to do all the work.

 

I remember that thread, but it seems my e-brake is "only" rolling a little bit. As I said above, my other cars do the similar "move" on the slope. TL is a little more, and others two (Legend & GS) are less. If I pull up e-brake even more, my car would almost not roll an inch.


Since it's not rolling significantly, I use the way as you said above to park my car anywhere I go. I bet less than 1% of ppl in US use this method.


P.S. If my e-brake isn't working, I know how it feels while shifting out of Park. I would scream loudly...

 

Every time I've ever ridden in a car with an automatic (I seldom have reason to drive one), I've noticed that the car rolls slightly when driver sets the parking brake and then takes his foot off the pedal. EVERY automatic I've ever experienced does this, even on flat ground.

I have the 6MT and how I apply the parking brake depends on where I am--on flat ground I park, shift into first, pull the hand brake, then turn off the car. If I'm on a hill, I shift into neutral, pull the hand brake, then step on the foot brake and shift into first (if facing uphill) or reverse (if facing downhill), turn the wheels as appropriate (especially in DC where they ticket people who fail to do this) and then I turn off the car. I don't want all the weight being on the parking brake or on the gearbox. This might be overkill, but it's how I was taught when I learned to drive and it's stuck with me.

 

At what point in this sequence do you turn off the ignition?

 

Nope... E-brakes of all Hondas with rear disc brakes that I have worked on, actually pull the brake pads to the rotors, just like the normal braking action. There's no small drum brakes within the rear rotors. I know that some Toyotas use this method though.

Check out this image:

 

After #3...

 

You didn't look far enough. Here's the parking brake shoe for the TL

System Name / Component : PARKING BRAKE SHOE
RETURN TO CHOOSING A SYSTEM / COMPONENT FOR : TL

 

Thats interesting, every one, then why under identicle conditions did the TSX loaner, and TL loaner (2nd gen) not do it? My e-brake was adjusted three times, and no matter how high I pulled, it never would stop the car before the transmission kicked in (yes, most do roll slightly, but stop the car before the transmission kicks in like it should). The other cars that did not do this most likely had a streched cable.

 

I bet neuronbob would like to try this evil twin if this car still exists... this car sounded like the real defective. Sorry.

 

After setting the parking or e-brake the any car (manual or automatic) it can roll slightly and even more after sitting for a while. As the brakes cold the initial brake pressure applied is lessened as the brakes cool. Warm brakes equal thicker rotors. We park on an incline at work and at least 2 times a year someone's car rolls into another. Usually a manual with the parking brake set and out of gear.

 

Sorry it has been a few days but it appears I have started quite a discussion. #2 is more descriptive of what I did.

Would it make much of a difference if I applied the e-brake while still in Drive, then shifted to park? Or should I shift to Neutral, apply the e-brake, then shift to Park.

 

Same problem with my ebrake it canno't stop my car.

I think i m going to tell the dealer to fix it on my next visit. On my 2003 coupe accord it was perfect

 

what's the deal with using the ebrake for the 5AT? is it even necessarry?

 

I've done it on my old automatic when I was parking on a hill. When the car is resting in Park and not on the e-brake, it is horrendous when I get in the car again, start the car and shift to drive. There was a noticeable thunk and the it kicked into gear.

I just never liked the sound, or the concept of it, so I always shifted to Park, not let go of the brakes, and then pulled the e-brake. After I pulled the e-brake, I let go of the brakes, and turned off the car.

 

Oops, I really couldn't tell... so I asked.




I prefer to shift to Neutral first, then release the brake pedal after applying e-brake, then shift to Park. This would help me make sure the car has been stopped by e-brake completely prior to my shift to Park. IMHO. I don't want my Park gear getting any loads.

 

Whatever you apply e-brake before or after shifting to Park, the e-brake would at least be very helpful to prevent the Park gear getting worn/damaged, or stop your car moving down or having any accident when you're on the incline. IMO.

I hate to hear that "clunk" sound, too... lots of members have asked why their TLs have such noise when shifting out of Park, and most of them are parking on the hills.



You could try your TL or rental FWD car, and do the demo. You will hear that terrible sound for sure.

 

yeah i'm aware that you should use the ebrake on hills for autos just not familiar with using it when parked normally on the sidewalk.

 

For example, while the car is resting in Park, I'd hate ppl bumping my car and cause my Park gear damaged... but you know, for me, it's just the habit to use it...

 

Thanks everybody for the good insight. It sounds like I'm going to start disciplining myself to apply the e-brake in Neutral.

Now I just have to figure out how to back out of my driveway without hitting that air deflector on my apron....but that's another day, another thread!

 

I pull in to the spot ---> foot brake down, ---> tranny to neutral ---> park brake up ---> foot brake up ---(lurch)---> engine off ---> tranny to park ---> key out

Excessive, I don't care, i just want to be as nie as I can be to my baby! And if I don't do this (I pull in to the spot ---> foot brake down, ---> tranny to Park ---> engine off ---> park brake up ---> foot brake up), I notice it usually lurches until the transmission hits, even on calm hills. I took it to the dealer and they told me about the small drumb brake for parking, which I thought was BS until i read about it here. I told them it felt like it was awfully loose, and that it didn't actually keep the car from rolling until like 25 degrees up, but they said it was within the specified number of 'cilcks', so didn't do anything. Is there any way I can tighten the cable myself? I'm not a mechanic by a long shot, and it loosk pretty low to crawl under, so i might have to park ontop of a storm drain or smoething, but I really want to fix this.

Preferably, I'd like the handle to actuate the calipers for more responsive/gradual braking. Some day, when I buy that private controlled area to legally do stupid thigns with my car, I want to lock the back wheels while taking a tight turn. I've heard this can be fun in a FWD car, and would like to try it out someday, but while its as weak as it is now, i doubt it would be worth it, and I want better controll anyway.

Also, has anyone noticed their brakes squeeking in the morning, mine, usually in reverse only. My dealer said it was microscopic rust. I asked them where they keep their microscope. (no not really, but should have damnit!) Are brakes supposed to rust? They get wet at the car wash and all! If I got the brembos, would they rust too? Someone recommended carbon rotors instead of metal... Any thoughts/ideas?

 

The pads won't rust (.. shouldn't anyways) but the metallic components in the rotor will and they do it pretty darn fast. The brakes on my accord work really good after a car wash.. that is until the oxidation/'micro rust' wears off when I hit the brakes =p


Pads may move slightly when going into reverse and then back into drive, but it shouldn't be a constant squeak (one of my other cars had a very brief slight 'grind' when I went into reverse, the rear pad had some movement)