paint question
#1
paint question
I used the touch up paint and now my car looks worse than with scratches...posted in wash and wax...but not that many replies..someone help me...i put on touch up paint then let it dry then tried to buff it out with MF towel...it's still bumpy and color is not same...
sorry if I wasn't suppose to post here
sorry if I wasn't suppose to post here
#6
A post a while back said to use a paper match to apply the paint instead of the brush that comes with the bottle (the ripped part not the sulfur ).
That little trick worked like a charm, I didn't have a match but used some light brown paper, rolled a small piece and ripped it to get more texture on one end, then applied in many (i.e. 5) coats to build up slowly. Then rubbing compound, wash and wax like Lore suggested.
Looks pretty good.
That little trick worked like a charm, I didn't have a match but used some light brown paper, rolled a small piece and ripped it to get more texture on one end, then applied in many (i.e. 5) coats to build up slowly. Then rubbing compound, wash and wax like Lore suggested.
Looks pretty good.
#7
Originally Posted by Brewmaster
A post a while back said to use a paper match to apply the paint instead of the brush that comes with the bottle (the ripped part not the sulfur ).
That little trick worked like a charm, I didn't have a match but used some light brown paper, rolled a small piece and ripped it to get more texture on one end, then applied in many (i.e. 5) coats to build up slowly. Then rubbing compound, wash and wax like Lore suggested.
Looks pretty good.
That little trick worked like a charm, I didn't have a match but used some light brown paper, rolled a small piece and ripped it to get more texture on one end, then applied in many (i.e. 5) coats to build up slowly. Then rubbing compound, wash and wax like Lore suggested.
Looks pretty good.
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#9
You may want to consider using a clay bar first to remove the excess paint. Clay is commonly used to remove debri, and overspray from the mfg.
I would then apply some rubbing compound, or a good cleaner wax. Be CAREFUL with the compound!! Some compounds contain more grit than others, and on dark colors can destroy the finish! I would strongly recommend testing the compound in an inconspicuous area (such as a door jam) before the major areas.
Good Luck!!
I would then apply some rubbing compound, or a good cleaner wax. Be CAREFUL with the compound!! Some compounds contain more grit than others, and on dark colors can destroy the finish! I would strongly recommend testing the compound in an inconspicuous area (such as a door jam) before the major areas.
Good Luck!!
#15
Originally Posted by acura_service
use 2000 grit sandpaper (its almost like a sheet of regular paper) wet, lightly sand over the area you touched up, use a buffer to bring out the shine
any recommendations on the type of buffer I should use? or is a MF towel good enough? and any idea where i can buy all these items...thanks
#17
Originally Posted by acura_service
just a orbital or standard type buffer, use a mild compound then go over with a polish
sorry, didn't answer my question regarding the sand paper and where I can purchase it. thanks.
#18
You can get 2000 grit sandpaper (the stuff I have is charcoal color) at auto parts stores that have auto painting supplies. My NAPA store has this (for example), but a check of the phone book under auto painting supplies should turn up something in your area.
I also recommend 2000 grit after building up the paint, followed by rubbing Dupont #7 polishing liquid, and finishing with a coat of good car wax. You should let the touch-up paint sit in the sun for a few hours to harden before working it.
I also recommend 2000 grit after building up the paint, followed by rubbing Dupont #7 polishing liquid, and finishing with a coat of good car wax. You should let the touch-up paint sit in the sun for a few hours to harden before working it.
#19
ok before anyone uses sand paper make sure you know what you are doing. although a very fine sand paper used with water does not do alot of damage, you can end up f'cking up your paint pretty bad. i would practice on something else first before i try it. i don't know where you can practice but you don't want to make this worse than it is.
#20
Originally Posted by caball88
ok before anyone uses sand paper make sure you know what you are doing. although a very fine sand paper used with water does not do alot of damage, you can end up f'cking up your paint pretty bad. i would practice on something else first before i try it. i don't know where you can practice but you don't want to make this worse than it is.
And PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not try and put the sandpaper on the polisher. Your touch up paint isn't really set up yet, so extremely light hand sanding with a fair amount of water should be all you need.
#21
Yeah, using sandpaper can get nasty really quickly. I would just dab drops of touch-up into the scratches and let them dry a few days and then clear coat it. Bring it to a shine with rubbing compound.
#23
sorry, but I used sandpaper to sand down excess layer of touch up paint and rubbing compound to do stuff and now..it looks kinda dull and the paint scratch doesn't match and paint looks dull..any idea on what i should do or know anywhere in LA area that I can get it fixed for cheap..
#24
Where is the scratch? How big is it? Describe exactly what you did. What grit sandpaper, how much did you sand, what compound, how did you buff it? Did your touchup paint include a clearcoat? Where did you get the touchup paint from?
If the dmage is too extensive, you may have to have it airbrushed back to life. I wouldn't think it would be too expensive, but you;ll want someone who knows what they are doing do it or your blemish will just get bigger and uglier.
If you post pics, perhaps some of the more experienced paint toucher uppers can give some more detailed help.
If the dmage is too extensive, you may have to have it airbrushed back to life. I wouldn't think it would be too expensive, but you;ll want someone who knows what they are doing do it or your blemish will just get bigger and uglier.
If you post pics, perhaps some of the more experienced paint toucher uppers can give some more detailed help.
#25
Originally Posted by terse
sorry, but I used sandpaper to sand down excess layer of touch up paint and rubbing compound to do stuff and now..it looks kinda dull and the paint scratch doesn't match and paint looks dull..any idea on what i should do or know anywhere in LA area that I can get it fixed for cheap..
You'll need to use the rubbing compound to bring the clearcoat back to its original shine. Make sure you let it fully dry or else your application of the rubbing compound will take it right off.
Go read the HOW TO that Paintscratch.com has on their site. It gives a lot of good information.
#26
Originally Posted by hypertech
Where is the scratch? How big is it? Describe exactly what you did. What grit sandpaper, how much did you sand, what compound, how did you buff it? Did your touchup paint include a clearcoat? Where did you get the touchup paint from?
If the dmage is too extensive, you may have to have it airbrushed back to life. I wouldn't think it would be too expensive, but you;ll want someone who knows what they are doing do it or your blemish will just get bigger and uglier.
If you post pics, perhaps some of the more experienced paint toucher uppers can give some more detailed help.
If the dmage is too extensive, you may have to have it airbrushed back to life. I wouldn't think it would be too expensive, but you;ll want someone who knows what they are doing do it or your blemish will just get bigger and uglier.
If you post pics, perhaps some of the more experienced paint toucher uppers can give some more detailed help.
i used it semi wet...i don't think it had a clear coat on it...i got my touchup paint from acura of pasadena. I will take pictures of it when I get the chance...but i work and don't get off til late..so I'll try to post some by this weekend at the latest..thanks to all of you guys for helping...
#27
See my avatar? that's a guitar I finished myself. I refinish guitar bodies as a hobby, and i wet sand them from 400 grit to 2000 grit, and then polish them up.
having said that, I'd be real nervous with sandpaper in my hand trying to clean up a touch up on my car.
having said that, I'd be real nervous with sandpaper in my hand trying to clean up a touch up on my car.
#30
Originally Posted by acura_service
after its wetsanded it has to be buffed with a mild compound, then buffed with polish and prefferably a foam pad
sorry for constant questions, but can you tell me which type of polish i should purchase..
or is the polish the foam applicator?
this is my first new car that I've ever cared for...never fixed a scratch before on my POS cars...so please give me information as if you were telling a...child..thanks a lot..for everyone that's been helping..I've been giving rep points..
#31
any kind of a machine glaze polish, the foam pad is the buffer wheel its pad instead of cotton, probably if your dealership has a detail and polish shop, you can probably just stop by and see if someone can just hit it with the buffer, i had a scratch in the clear the other day on a new odyssey, sales called me i took it in to the sanding/polishing department in the body shop, dipped the sandpaper in water, a few cicular strokes on the area, light compound then buffed with the foam pad, scratch was gone, it was deep enough to catch your fingernail in it, but it was only in the clear, took just a couple minutes, but these are people who do this everyday, i would stop by the dealer, see if a polish guy has 5 or 10 minutes to help you out
#32
terse-
I wasn't sure if the question was directed at me, but I'll answer anyway. After finish sanding to 2000 grit, I buff with 3M Finesse-it, then 3M Perfect-it, then polish with 3M show car glaze. I spray the guitar bodies with nitrocellulose lacquer, so I can't use anything with silicones in it. Silicones will penetrate the nitro and cause adhesion problems.
I wasn't sure if the question was directed at me, but I'll answer anyway. After finish sanding to 2000 grit, I buff with 3M Finesse-it, then 3M Perfect-it, then polish with 3M show car glaze. I spray the guitar bodies with nitrocellulose lacquer, so I can't use anything with silicones in it. Silicones will penetrate the nitro and cause adhesion problems.
#33
Originally Posted by Bluenote
terse-
I wasn't sure if the question was directed at me, but I'll answer anyway. After finish sanding to 2000 grit, I buff with 3M Finesse-it, then 3M Perfect-it, then polish with 3M show car glaze. I spray the guitar bodies with nitrocellulose lacquer, so I can't use anything with silicones in it. Silicones will penetrate the nitro and cause adhesion problems.
I wasn't sure if the question was directed at me, but I'll answer anyway. After finish sanding to 2000 grit, I buff with 3M Finesse-it, then 3M Perfect-it, then polish with 3M show car glaze. I spray the guitar bodies with nitrocellulose lacquer, so I can't use anything with silicones in it. Silicones will penetrate the nitro and cause adhesion problems.
out of all the products you've mentioned, I can use all of them on my car?
#34
Sure. They're all made for bodyshop use. I've found all 3 at Pep Boys. They can be difficult to find, though.
I have some pics of my guitar work at www.pbase.com/bluenote
I have some pics of my guitar work at www.pbase.com/bluenote
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