Is it okay if I wait overnight after sipping Seafoam?
#1
Is it okay if I wait overnight after sipping Seafoam?
Trying to be a nice neighbor, I prefer sipping the Seafoam from vacuum line at night. Is it okay to wait overnight and drive the car the next day? Or should I wait 5~15 mins. as recommended, restart the engine, and drive?
Doing Seafoam can be tiring due to our vacuum line is really tightened, and I prefer driving when I'm well rested and really have some places to go.
Doing Seafoam can be tiring due to our vacuum line is really tightened, and I prefer driving when I'm well rested and really have some places to go.
#2
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
Don't wait overnight. Go for a drive a few mins later.
Why are you doing the seafoam anyway?
Why are you doing the seafoam anyway?
#6
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Back when I had my accord, there was a few times that I put it in and forgot. I would get down the road a little bit the next morning and then it would go "spy hunter" once it got a little bit warm.
My accord had over 400K and the sea foam really did help to boost manifold vacuum - 3 treatments (1 can) allowed me to pull more than 1 lb more which helped the vintage MAP sensor take my MPG up quite a bit on that antiquated computer. Now, at 400K, I imagine that I had more carbon buildup that most of us have in our TLs. My Acrua does not blow as much white smoke as my Accord did. My olds with brand new heads blows none. I do think that it does something, but to varying degrees based on how much accumulation is in there. Results will vary.
My accord had over 400K and the sea foam really did help to boost manifold vacuum - 3 treatments (1 can) allowed me to pull more than 1 lb more which helped the vintage MAP sensor take my MPG up quite a bit on that antiquated computer. Now, at 400K, I imagine that I had more carbon buildup that most of us have in our TLs. My Acrua does not blow as much white smoke as my Accord did. My olds with brand new heads blows none. I do think that it does something, but to varying degrees based on how much accumulation is in there. Results will vary.
#7
Team Owner
First, you should never seafoam your car through the intake or the oil. Gas tank only and even then it's pointless if you've always run premium. Ask yourself why you're running seafoam in the first place and you will find it hard to answer. Unless your car has at least 200,000 miles on it, it's pointless to use it through the intake and even then I would not do it. If you've ever pulled an engine apart at that kind of mileage there's just not much carbon at all especially a modern EFI engine.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
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mcmguti (02-29-2012)
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#9
Instructor
#10
First, you should never seafoam your car through the intake or the oil. Gas tank only and even then it's pointless if you've always run premium. Ask yourself why you're running seafoam in the first place and you will find it hard to answer. Unless your car has at least 200,000 miles on it, it's pointless to use it through the intake and even then I would not do it. If you've ever pulled an engine apart at that kind of mileage there's just not much carbon at all especially a modern EFI engine.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
I hear both arguments (a. Seafoam is great; b. Seafoam is scam), but I have never found any research or rationale to support either arguments.
#11
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
#12
Team Owner
I had to stop reading that thread on the first page, too much BS. So one guy gained 100 miles per tank for 33% better mileage and another's car ran great AFTER PUTTING IT IN THE OIL! To top it off he had to add oil to "thicken up the mixture" and then claimed the newfound performance went away after changing the oil. It would be funny if it did not mislead those looking for facts.
The worst were the people seafoaming their almost new TL with 10,000 miles and claiming a difference. The best any product like this can do is restore performance to how it was when the car was new. People were seafoaming new cars, seeing some smoke from the seafoam burning and imagining a performance increase.
The worst were the people seafoaming their almost new TL with 10,000 miles and claiming a difference. The best any product like this can do is restore performance to how it was when the car was new. People were seafoaming new cars, seeing some smoke from the seafoam burning and imagining a performance increase.
#13
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
First, you should never seafoam your car through the intake or the oil. Gas tank only and even then it's pointless if you've always run premium. Ask yourself why you're running seafoam in the first place and you will find it hard to answer. Unless your car has at least 200,000 miles on it, it's pointless to use it through the intake and even then I would not do it. If you've ever pulled an engine apart at that kind of mileage there's just not much carbon at all especially a modern EFI engine.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
Too many things to go wrong from hydrolocking to killing a converter or 02 sensor. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.
If you must do it, do not let it sit overnight.
Last, the smoke you see is nothing more than the seafoam itself burning. It's not some magical buildup "burning" off.
Don't even like to reply to these threads, but as Matt jumped in, just thought I'd back him up.
#14
I'm not even sure seafoam does anything. Obviously, it's going to smoke like crazy because anything you pour into the engine will smoke. Then you have to change the plugs and the oil? Let me know if you notice a difference after.
#16
Dogmatic Dinosaur
I don't know anything about anything and I don't even care.
...but, if it is just the seafoam burning, how come you cannot get any white smoke out of a new car (I never got a new car or new engine to smoke), yet a car with lots of miles will smoke like crazy. Seems like it would smoke equally if it was the Seafoam burning. Has anybody actually seen a new car smoke with their own eyes? Mine would not.
Also, if there is a point where carbon buildup can start to become an "issue," what is the harm in doing it beforehand?
...but, if it is just the seafoam burning, how come you cannot get any white smoke out of a new car (I never got a new car or new engine to smoke), yet a car with lots of miles will smoke like crazy. Seems like it would smoke equally if it was the Seafoam burning. Has anybody actually seen a new car smoke with their own eyes? Mine would not.
Also, if there is a point where carbon buildup can start to become an "issue," what is the harm in doing it beforehand?
#17
Team Owner
I don't know anything about anything and I don't even care.
...but, if it is just the seafoam burning, how come you cannot get any white smoke out of a new car (I never got a new car or new engine to smoke), yet a car with lots of miles will smoke like crazy. Seems like it would smoke equally if it was the Seafoam burning. Has anybody actually seen a new car smoke with their own eyes? Mine would not.
Also, if there is a point where carbon buildup can start to become an "issue," what is the harm in doing it beforehand?
...but, if it is just the seafoam burning, how come you cannot get any white smoke out of a new car (I never got a new car or new engine to smoke), yet a car with lots of miles will smoke like crazy. Seems like it would smoke equally if it was the Seafoam burning. Has anybody actually seen a new car smoke with their own eyes? Mine would not.
Also, if there is a point where carbon buildup can start to become an "issue," what is the harm in doing it beforehand?
However, there's just so little carbon buildup in an EFI engine assuming it's running right that there's just not anything to gain by it. Sure, at some point in some extreme case I'm sure seafoam can help even though water does the exact same thing lol. I've never seen enough carbon to cause hotspots or to raise compression ratio. There are plenty pictures on this site of TLs with the heads off and you can clearly see the piston crowns and practically no carbon at all. Same with the heads.
I'm crazy about preventative maintenance. I know some of my oil choices and OCI are too conservative. I tend to be that way but using seafoam as preventative maintenance is taking a risk for little to no gain.
#18
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Ok, we were talking about two different thing.
I can totally see why the people think that the product has nothing to offer in the combustion chamber.
The benefit (perceived, or no) for me was always in the intake and valves to beat back the EGR residue on the areas where the injectors don't spray fuel. Of course, if this was happening, then it is necessary to put it in the intake.
I can totally see why the people think that the product has nothing to offer in the combustion chamber.
The benefit (perceived, or no) for me was always in the intake and valves to beat back the EGR residue on the areas where the injectors don't spray fuel. Of course, if this was happening, then it is necessary to put it in the intake.
#20
Team Owner
Ok, we were talking about two different thing.
I can totally see why the people think that the product has nothing to offer in the combustion chamber.
The benefit (perceived, or no) for me was always in the intake and valves to beat back the EGR residue on the areas where the injectors don't spray fuel. Of course, if this was happening, then it is necessary to put it in the intake.
I can totally see why the people think that the product has nothing to offer in the combustion chamber.
The benefit (perceived, or no) for me was always in the intake and valves to beat back the EGR residue on the areas where the injectors don't spray fuel. Of course, if this was happening, then it is necessary to put it in the intake.
A little off topic but I like to run an oil with a super low NOACK value so there's less PCV crap coming though there. I wish there was a way to disable the EGR and not run into pinging without buying a $2,000 ECU.
Way off topic but I've always had plans to tear the engine down once this car is ready for the junkyard. Only two different oils run for it's entire life and no seafoam ever added. It's only seen regular fuel once since new and only run fuel injector cleaner once when it was new and I thought I got a batch of bad gas. So one day, maybe in the next 5 years I'll be able to open it up and see what it looks like inside.
I'm not trying to discredit or argue with anyone, especially yourself, I just don't see any real value to this stuff. My main problem as always been the guys that claim 100mpg and 100hp increase lol.
#21
Dogmatic Dinosaur
You will need 15-20 years before your TL is ready for the junkyard. Even with 450K, I had somebody give me $1,000 for my 92 accord. I hope that you don't ever find out by needing a head gasket or anything.
One day, if you start to get MAP CEL lights, give it a try. Of course, not too many of us are near that kind of mileage, but some day...
I am going with "it might work" still. It really helps clean out gummed up carbs on my lawn equipment from sitting over the winter - I mean it works in like 5 minutes rather than a few tankfuls like using gas alone.
One day, if you start to get MAP CEL lights, give it a try. Of course, not too many of us are near that kind of mileage, but some day...
I am going with "it might work" still. It really helps clean out gummed up carbs on my lawn equipment from sitting over the winter - I mean it works in like 5 minutes rather than a few tankfuls like using gas alone.
#23
Team Owner
You will need 15-20 years before your TL is ready for the junkyard. Even with 450K, I had somebody give me $1,000 for my 92 accord. I hope that you don't ever find out by needing a head gasket or anything.
One day, if you start to get MAP CEL lights, give it a try. Of course, not too many of us are near that kind of mileage, but some day...
I am going with "it might work" still. It really helps clean out gummed up carbs on my lawn equipment from sitting over the winter - I mean it works in like 5 minutes rather than a few tankfuls like using gas alone.
One day, if you start to get MAP CEL lights, give it a try. Of course, not too many of us are near that kind of mileage, but some day...
I am going with "it might work" still. It really helps clean out gummed up carbs on my lawn equipment from sitting over the winter - I mean it works in like 5 minutes rather than a few tankfuls like using gas alone.
I agree, a solvent like seafoam works great in carbs especially with questionable gas. It has it's place, it's just that top tier fuel has all the detergents you'll need. Good oil and regular changes will leave no deposits in the crank case. Fuel feedback EFI has such precise fuel metering that combustion chamber deposits are not an issue for a very long time. That leaves EGR and PCV deposits in the intake tract or a batch of bad gas or a car that was run on cheap regular fuel or not driven much by the previous owner.
Was your Accord a 4cylinder or V6 model?
#24
Dogmatic Dinosaur
I had the 4. It was so old that you had to use a paper clip and count the flashes when the CEL went off. Your TL will go as long as you want - I imagine that a few radiator fan motors, wheel bearings, main seals, etc. won't be any trouble.
Last edited by jda123; 02-25-2012 at 10:13 PM.
#25
Team Owner
I've been lucky so far, 107k and I've only replaced a battery and headlight (and many cosmetic wear items). It's been a great experience so far. I'm actually looking forward to doing the timing belt (I'm late, I know) and pulling the valve covers for the valve adjustment. It looks brand new under there, like I poured oil over a brand new head. Can't wait to post pictures of it with the cover off.
Anyway, back on topic.
#26
I would never use seafoam in my TL since it uses premium gas. However, with a vehicle that uses regular gasoline do you think seafoam poured in the gas tank will benefit (I have 91' Accord with 400k)?
#27
I really like seafoam BUT
1: it seems like a waste in my cars i never can see or tell any difference
2: my 30yr old 2 stroke sthil chainsaw idles when it didn't and runs a lot better after running some in the gas.....
3: use your own judgment with the stuff its pretty pricey.
1: it seems like a waste in my cars i never can see or tell any difference
2: my 30yr old 2 stroke sthil chainsaw idles when it didn't and runs a lot better after running some in the gas.....
3: use your own judgment with the stuff its pretty pricey.
#29
Team Owner
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