Mobil 1 recommends their 0w-20 for Honda and Ford engines. Their website confirms this, I called and they say no plans to release 5w-20 synthetic.

 

use amsoil then if mobil doesn't offer 5w-20. the price is about the same, maybe a dollar more per liter but amsoil is fully synthetic. there is some debate whether or not mobil 1 was fully synthetic.

 

Amsoil 5w-20 is a Group III based oil which would not be a full synthetic but a highly purified dino. Mobil 1 5w30 is a Group IV oil made with PAO which is considered a true synthetic. Check out BobistheOilGuy forums for more info on this.

 

is it true that once you use synthetic you cannot go back to regular non-synthetic oil?

 

I just changed mine at ~ 4500 miles. Felt that was long enough for the break-in oil interval (MID was 50%).... Decided to use Castrol GTX 5W-20. I would prefer Mobile 1 but not a fan of 0W-20 for 100+ temps here in TX. OK for winter but have my "fears" for summer - call me old school. Not sure of any issues with 5W-30 behond gas mileage either...
I'm hoping in the near future we will see more Synthetic Blends etc. in the 5W-20 vis. I've been a Valvoline and Mobile-1 user all my life.

 

I also went with Castrol GTX 5W-20 after much looking around. Full synthetic with the proper viscosity and certification seal.

 

GTX is a very good choice for conventional Oil. Can't go wrong there. I use Mobil 1 5w-30 with K&N Oil Filter. The oil cap says 5w-20 but the M1 5w-30 is thin compared to other 5w-30 oils and is borderline 5w-20 range.

 

Since the clearance specs haven't changed since Honda/Acura specified 5W-30 I believe their motive for the lower 5W-20 oil is purely for gas milage and faster warm up
times. While this is not a bad idea at all I will probably go with what I've been using for years now which is Amsoil's 100% PAO 0W-30. It is a very fuel efficient oil, is guaranteed for 35,000 miles or one year, has the best additives et. If the dealer gives me any problems I will go either with 0W20 Mobil 1 or Red Line 5W-20.
Craig

 

And how do you really know you are getting Acura Spec 5-20W oil, unless you buy it in the original containers and do your own oil change or watch it being done using those containers? Not that I don't trust dealers and their service departments, but I was a parts manager for 15 years and there is usually only one tube coming from the bulk oil container, meant for all the different and varied requirements of the cars being serviced. Not that an Acura dealer would be guilty of this.

 

RonA,
Yes usually dealers get their oil in 55 gal drums or a Tote which is 250 gallons. This saves them money by buying in large quantities and simply cost of individual quart containers. Honest dealers will get the factory spec oil but just in a larger container.
Yes and some will use one wt oil for all the cars they service regardless of what wt oil
the factory recommends for each engine they produce.

The important part is that they use the correct SAE/API rating. For example the latest
is SL, S stands for spark or gas engine, L is the latest and highest grade available now.
When the OEM's need better oil the next grade would be SM.
Craig

 

Where is the option for Valvoline SynPower synthetic oil?

 

Option?
If they blend a synthetic thats 5W-20, 0W-20, or IMHO a 0W-30
go with it if you prefer Valvoline.
Make sure it meets the Acura API spec for the oil.
Craig

 

Myth, go back and forth and in 99% of cases mix 'em in the crank case.

Vandy

 

Very true. Mechanics and servicing dealers don't want anybody using synthetic oil as
the wear factors are minmal compared to dino oils. They want you back for their services.

Chet03TLS,
It is true that the new class III oils are petroleum based stocks. However, they have
improved the additives to the point that they are very close to PAO (pure synthetic)
in performance but won't last as long as a full 100% synthetic.
Craig

 

I have used all the above mention including redline....

My favorite now is 10w40....somehow the engine likes it, it starts good, good power, no hard idle, quiet valves.

Remember my car has over 100k miles.

I also switched from the most expensive $9 a bottle synthetic 5w30 to the cheapest $84 conventional oil.....is just not worth it, except the redline I would switch every 5k-7k miles....this one I switch ever 2k miles.

 

Which K & N oil filter are you using ?

HP-1004 or HP-1005 (oversize) ?

Thanks

 

The HP-1004. I haven't tried the HP-1005. Also try M1 filters. They are great too. I would use them also but I can't find it locally in my area.

 

Thanks, for the update,

The M1,s are $12 + Tax here and I can get the K&N's for $8.97 w/free shipping from

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilters/search_vehicles

Have a few cars to do so it saves a bit by going with the K&N's

 

I have been told that the WIX oil filter is the best. Costs about $7.00. So for me its Mobil 1 0W-20 and the WIX oil filter. By the way just got the Mobil 1 at Strauss Auto Stores for $3.99/quart.

 

I use RedLine in everything, and it is by far the best oil I have every used.

-KeithT

2004 TL
2001 BMW K1200RS
1991 SpecMiata
1956 Porsche 356

 

I might try the HP-1005 next. Anyone with with any experience with this oversized filter?

K&N filters are built like a tank. Super hard and heavy. No orange cans for my car.

 

I'll be using Mobil 1 0W-20 and NAPA Gold (WIX) filters.

5W-20 is what Honda/Acura recommends, not requires. So long as you stay at or above the top number -20 - (within reason of course), and the oil meets API standards, there shouldn't be any issues.

Too many myths about oil, filters, and change intervals in the world.

 

For 2nd Gen 3.2 TL, Acura recommended 5w-30 then moved to 5w-20 in 2000, or 2001 for fuel economy purposes. Using 5w-30 won't damage your engine.