OEM Brembo Rotors and Pads Bedding Procedure
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
OEM Brembo Rotors and Pads Bedding Procedure
Hi friends:
I searched a bit but found some bedding in procedures for aftermarket pads/rotors.
I recently replaced my Type-S Brembos with OEM Brembo rotors and pads. I'm starting to get some warping (shudder during breaking). Technician confirmed this. Unfortunately they are going to have to resurface the rotor.
I'll need to bed it in again properly. I was told to not do any high speed bed-in procedures when I first got the replacements, but obviously that didn't work so well.
I'm wondering what you all are doing (the ones that are just running Brembo rotors and pads) for bedding procedures. I did some searching but nothing came up specifically for this OEM Brembo set ups - is it all the same?
Thanks in advance!
PS - 94eg! I read a post of yours...thanks. I will be going with Centric pads and rotors next time, since they are essentially non-branded brembo rotors/pads!
I searched a bit but found some bedding in procedures for aftermarket pads/rotors.
I recently replaced my Type-S Brembos with OEM Brembo rotors and pads. I'm starting to get some warping (shudder during breaking). Technician confirmed this. Unfortunately they are going to have to resurface the rotor.
I'll need to bed it in again properly. I was told to not do any high speed bed-in procedures when I first got the replacements, but obviously that didn't work so well.
I'm wondering what you all are doing (the ones that are just running Brembo rotors and pads) for bedding procedures. I did some searching but nothing came up specifically for this OEM Brembo set ups - is it all the same?
Thanks in advance!
PS - 94eg! I read a post of yours...thanks. I will be going with Centric pads and rotors next time, since they are essentially non-branded brembo rotors/pads!
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Leaf 68 (08-03-2020)
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ChairmanKaga809 (09-18-2012)
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
#5
Drifting
from stoptech:
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
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Q_ShipTL (05-14-2017)
#6
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
i like bedding in new brakes/rotors. it's fun
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#8
Drifting
I did mine on the Interstate at 11:30 at night. Made sure nobody anywhere near me and was doing 65-10mph off to the shoulder just in case. Had a nice stretch of highway that was about 6 miles long with a nice clover-leaf interchange to get heading back home without coming to a stop.
#9
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
I did mine in a elementary school parking lot at 3:00pm just when school was letting out.
zero fucks given.
zero fucks given.
#10
Suzuka Master
yup after the bedding then just drive around for 10-20 mins to allow the rotor to cool down but like crab man said, you running into red light or a stop sign sometime .
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, got my car. Did the best I could considering it was a residential area where I picked up the car, no place to really get up to 45mph right away after braking. I did it as soon as possible. Braking feels solid again (also changed out the brake fluid) so hopefully it won't warp again.
If it does, I'll go with some centric rotors. Thank you everyone for their advice!
If it does, I'll go with some centric rotors. Thank you everyone for their advice!
#12
Suzuka Master
^^^I am agree with you there, BTW make sure all of the wheel nuts are set to 75-80 ft-lb to prevent hub run out which can cause rotor warp.
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