New StopTech rotors shaking
#1
New StopTech rotors shaking
Recently had a friend install new front and rear StopTech slotted rotors (non cryo-genic treated), as well as new front and rear EBC redstuff pads and the brakes shake like when rotors are warped. Wondering if anyone knows what might be causing this?
07' Acura TL Type-S (Brembo front brakes)
126K
H&R wheel spacers
About 1200 miles on brakes
He didn't clean the rotors when installing, but he doesn't think that would cause a problem. I was going to do the recommended bed-in process but haven't done it since the brakes have not seemed right.
Rotors:
StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors Regular or Cryo FREE SHIPPING!
07' Acura TL Type-S (Brembo front brakes)
126K
H&R wheel spacers
About 1200 miles on brakes
He didn't clean the rotors when installing, but he doesn't think that would cause a problem. I was going to do the recommended bed-in process but haven't done it since the brakes have not seemed right.
Rotors:
StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors Regular or Cryo FREE SHIPPING!
#2
Rotors are covered in oil when they're shipped. He didn't clean that off??
Were the previous brakes shaking? Did the new brakes shake right away? Or did they just now start shaking.
Were the previous brakes shaking? Did the new brakes shake right away? Or did they just now start shaking.
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sockr1 (09-13-2017)
#5
Rotors are covered in oil when they're shipped. He didn't clean that off??
No. Could this create hotspots, or another issue that could cause the brakes to shake now? If so, is it likely or unlikely?
Were the previous brakes shaking? Did the new brakes shake right away? Or did they just now start shaking.
No. Could this create hotspots, or another issue that could cause the brakes to shake now? If so, is it likely or unlikely?
Were the previous brakes shaking? Did the new brakes shake right away? Or did they just now start shaking.
Which is doing what? Not sure what you're suggesting.
Thanks for the replies
#6
Your friend really should have cleaned the rotors, and you really should have performed the correct break in on the pads.
These proceses can make or break whether you get brake pulsation.
Brake pulsation most commonly happens because the pad over heats and smears the rotor with uneven amounts of pad material.
But sometimes, the caliper alignment or other mechanical failure can cause this.
Did you torque the lug nuts properly? Are the wheel spacers torqued (if they have their own nuts)?
You have a lot going on.
-Your friend did not clean the rotors (what kind of friend is this?!!). Are you sure he installed the rest of the parts properly?
-You didn't read/follow the pad instructions.
-You have wheel spacers.
You don't need special rotors to avoid pulsation. And no...the car's brakes aren't designed to pulsate. Something is wrong with your installation, procedure, or related parts.
Or maybe some other unrelated part is failing. A wheel bearing, ball joint, etc.
We can't do this over the internet. You should have it inspected.
These proceses can make or break whether you get brake pulsation.
Brake pulsation most commonly happens because the pad over heats and smears the rotor with uneven amounts of pad material.
But sometimes, the caliper alignment or other mechanical failure can cause this.
Did you torque the lug nuts properly? Are the wheel spacers torqued (if they have their own nuts)?
You have a lot going on.
-Your friend did not clean the rotors (what kind of friend is this?!!). Are you sure he installed the rest of the parts properly?
-You didn't read/follow the pad instructions.
-You have wheel spacers.
You don't need special rotors to avoid pulsation. And no...the car's brakes aren't designed to pulsate. Something is wrong with your installation, procedure, or related parts.
Or maybe some other unrelated part is failing. A wheel bearing, ball joint, etc.
We can't do this over the internet. You should have it inspected.
#7
Former Sponsor
The first thing to do before you take anything apart would be to do a proper bed-in , since unless there truly as an install error, you're most likely feeling pad deposits on the rotors like Turbonut had mentioned.
If you're constantly easy on the brakes and you don't generate enough heat to "burn" off the previous deposits from the pad, then the new deposits build on top over time as you use the brakes, and eventually you can feel it in the pedal.
You can StopTech's bed-in procedure here: Stock Brake System Bed-in
Good luck!
If you're constantly easy on the brakes and you don't generate enough heat to "burn" off the previous deposits from the pad, then the new deposits build on top over time as you use the brakes, and eventually you can feel it in the pedal.
You can StopTech's bed-in procedure here: Stock Brake System Bed-in
Good luck!
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#10
before you do any of the above, do this...
Un-mount the tires remove the spacers and then mount the tires back on and check under same conditions....Spacers can cause all kind of issues...that would be your first step.........
Then do all of the above....
Sandan
Un-mount the tires remove the spacers and then mount the tires back on and check under same conditions....Spacers can cause all kind of issues...that would be your first step.........
Then do all of the above....
Sandan
#13
Instructor
LOL
#15
All iron rotors are bagged covered in some sort of anti-rust solution. It a slippery/waxy/oily substance. Its not water soluble...because that defeats the purpose. So, "oil".
#16
Senior Moderator
All the rotors I've had have been covered in a bag and some residue as well. I've always used brake cleaner on the entire rotor prior to installation