Need some help
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Joined: Mar 2020
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From: PDX
Need some help
Hello to everyone!
Bought my Acura TL 2005 two weeks ago. It's my first Japanese car. Before I had Mercedes-Benz and I knew all about it and could give many advices. But now I'm like a pupil again
Please help me to figure out which brands of spare part I need to chose. What store I need to go to buy these parts? What web-site I need to use to find part numbers? I had an EPC program before for Mercedes-Benz and I could find any detail's number and buy it online. Can I do the same with Acura?
Will be grateful for any help.
Bought my Acura TL 2005 two weeks ago. It's my first Japanese car. Before I had Mercedes-Benz and I knew all about it and could give many advices. But now I'm like a pupil again
Please help me to figure out which brands of spare part I need to chose. What store I need to go to buy these parts? What web-site I need to use to find part numbers? I had an EPC program before for Mercedes-Benz and I could find any detail's number and buy it online. Can I do the same with Acura?
Will be grateful for any help.
Here is one Acura parts online vendor:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
Racer
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 338
Likes: 152
From: DFW TX
The biggest difference between Japanese and German cars is that the Japanese engineers know the value of simplicity and serviceability, whereas the German engineers firmly believe the more complicated the better and do not give an Fk about how difficult it is to service. This is slightly offset by the Germans knowing how big a hand is when they do deign to make something accessible, while the Japanese assumed we all have tiny hands to reach things.
However wrenching on my Acura I do see that the Honda engineers who designed it were in fact aware that they were competing with BMW, and had to step up their complication game a bit.
However wrenching on my Acura I do see that the Honda engineers who designed it were in fact aware that they were competing with BMW, and had to step up their complication game a bit.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 7,967
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The biggest difference between Japanese and German cars is that the Japanese engineers know the value of simplicity and serviceability, whereas the German engineers firmly believe the more complicated the better and do not give an Fk about how difficult it is to service. This is slightly offset by the Germans knowing how big a hand is when they do deign to make something accessible, while the Japanese assumed we all have tiny hands to reach things.
However wrenching on my Acura I do see that the Honda engineers who designed it were in fact aware that they were competing with BMW, and had to step up their complication game a bit.
However wrenching on my Acura I do see that the Honda engineers who designed it were in fact aware that they were competing with BMW, and had to step up their complication game a bit.
you think the TL is somewhat complicated? wait until you work on the RL lollolol.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
The biggest difference between Japanese and German cars is that the Japanese engineers know the value of simplicity and serviceability, whereas the German engineers firmly believe the more complicated the better and do not give an Fk about how difficult it is to service. This is slightly offset by the Germans knowing how big a hand is when they do deign to make something accessible, while the Japanese assumed we all have tiny hands to reach things.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
Here is one Acura parts online vendor:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
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Sure. Search car-part.com, with your vehicle criteria, for a salvage yard in your locale. You might get lucky and find a similar vehicle you can harvest parts from. In addition, google your area for LKQ 'pick and pulls', they may also have similar cars as well.
https://www.lkqonline.com/?ref=g-ppc...SAAEgJ0EPD_BwE
https://www.lkqonline.com/?ref=g-ppc...SAAEgJ0EPD_BwE
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
Sure. Search car-part.com, with your vehicle criteria, for a salvage yard in your locale. You might get lucky and find a similar vehicle you can harvest parts from. In addition, google your area for LKQ 'pick and pulls', they may also have similar cars as well.
https://www.lkqonline.com/?ref=g-ppc...SAAEgJ0EPD_BwE
https://www.lkqonline.com/?ref=g-ppc...SAAEgJ0EPD_BwE
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
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From: PDX
Thanks!
And do you use https://www.acuraoemparts.com/ and https://www.hondapartscheap.com/ too when looking for new parts?
And do you use https://www.acuraoemparts.com/ and https://www.hondapartscheap.com/ too when looking for new parts?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
Here is one Acura parts online vendor:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Part #'s you find for your Acura can sometimes be cross referenced to Honda parts online vendors for additions savings:
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/
^
I would go with the current 'SKU' part number listed when doing comparative searches.
For example:
Acura p/n 91212-5MR-A01 is for the pulley side crank seal, $6.84 before shipping.
Honda p/n 91212-5MR-A01 is for the pulley side crank seal, $6.38 before shipping.
The older seal part numbers, you have highlighted in red, have most likely been superseded by 91212-5MR-A01 and are listed for reference.
They are the same seal used for certain Acura and Honda models.
I would go with the current 'SKU' part number listed when doing comparative searches.
For example:
Acura p/n 91212-5MR-A01 is for the pulley side crank seal, $6.84 before shipping.
Honda p/n 91212-5MR-A01 is for the pulley side crank seal, $6.38 before shipping.
The older seal part numbers, you have highlighted in red, have most likely been superseded by 91212-5MR-A01 and are listed for reference.
They are the same seal used for certain Acura and Honda models.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 498
Since nobody mentioned the service manual I will.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16017697
Take a look at post #31
There is also bunch of not Honda branded parts that are considered OEM. For example most of us are using Aisin timing belt kits, Denso radiators or sensors, NGK spark plugs.
And since you are coming from Benz, and are probably used to Bosch parts, I tell you to don't use Bosch for your TL. It will save you a headache later. No idea why but Japanese cars don't like Bosch parts at all.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16017697
Take a look at post #31
There is also bunch of not Honda branded parts that are considered OEM. For example most of us are using Aisin timing belt kits, Denso radiators or sensors, NGK spark plugs.
And since you are coming from Benz, and are probably used to Bosch parts, I tell you to don't use Bosch for your TL. It will save you a headache later. No idea why but Japanese cars don't like Bosch parts at all.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
Since nobody mentioned the service manual I will.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16017697
Take a look at post #31
There is also bunch of not Honda branded parts that are considered OEM. For example most of us are using Aisin timing belt kits, Denso radiators or sensors, NGK spark plugs.
And since you are coming from Benz, and are probably used to Bosch parts, I tell you to don't use Bosch for your TL. It will save you a headache later. No idea why but Japanese cars don't like Bosch parts at all.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16017697
Take a look at post #31
There is also bunch of not Honda branded parts that are considered OEM. For example most of us are using Aisin timing belt kits, Denso radiators or sensors, NGK spark plugs.
And since you are coming from Benz, and are probably used to Bosch parts, I tell you to don't use Bosch for your TL. It will save you a headache later. No idea why but Japanese cars don't like Bosch parts at all.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 498
About your question on PM.
For brakes I used "gold" rotors and "cmax" pads from Autozone. That's the stuff that we use in the shop most of the time and I have no complains. Recently they changed from "Cmax" to "Elite" and I'm not sure if they are as good. Need to do more brake jobs and see if there are any problems. A lot of people go with gold pads and they are also fine.
Brakes aren't rocket science. Just pick something decent - cheapest stuff is bad. Whole kits from ebay for ~$100 are also bad. You don't have brembos on the front, right?
There's no much gaskets and seals that you will change. On Hondas either go OEM or there's no gasket (like for oil pan or oil pump) and you use silicon. In the shop we usually go with "gray gasket maker" from Permatex or JB weld. They have longer drying times but are easier to work with. Hondabond is OEM but it dries faster,
For "low duty" gaskets like valve cover gaskets going from whatever Autozone / Napa / etc. offers is probably good enough. Or OEM.
For fluids;
- transmission use only Honda/Acura DW1 (OEM) (~$10 / qt?) (you have auto trans, right?)
- PS fluid either OEM or get one from some shop that is "Honda" compatible and doesn't have any sealers or conditioners. Usually they have similar prices so OEM better.
- for coolant use OEM, as "Japanese" coolant from AZ/Napa etc. is about the same price and OEM is probably better (we pay ~$20 for one gallon from the dealer, but we have a shop discount). At least I used OEM and if we are doing t-belts that what we use.
- motor oil and filters - use whatever you want. Just make sure that it's changed on time and that you have enough of it. I go either with Mobil1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 0W-20 or 5W-20.
For chassis I try to stay OEM. For example OEM small parts like tie rods or sway bar links are sometimes cheaper than autozone parts. So you can either have $40 OEM tie rod end, or $30 Autozone tie rod end.
If you need something like bushings, OEM, if you need motor mounts, OEM, if you need upper control arms, OEM, etc.
For shocks go KYB from rockauto (they are either considered OEM equivalent or very close to OEM), or search the forum as there is couple alternatives.
Overall, OEM parts are cheaper and more available on hondas than they are on Euro cars, so that's what I usually pick for mine.
For brakes I used "gold" rotors and "cmax" pads from Autozone. That's the stuff that we use in the shop most of the time and I have no complains. Recently they changed from "Cmax" to "Elite" and I'm not sure if they are as good. Need to do more brake jobs and see if there are any problems. A lot of people go with gold pads and they are also fine.
Brakes aren't rocket science. Just pick something decent - cheapest stuff is bad. Whole kits from ebay for ~$100 are also bad. You don't have brembos on the front, right?
There's no much gaskets and seals that you will change. On Hondas either go OEM or there's no gasket (like for oil pan or oil pump) and you use silicon. In the shop we usually go with "gray gasket maker" from Permatex or JB weld. They have longer drying times but are easier to work with. Hondabond is OEM but it dries faster,
For "low duty" gaskets like valve cover gaskets going from whatever Autozone / Napa / etc. offers is probably good enough. Or OEM.
For fluids;
- transmission use only Honda/Acura DW1 (OEM) (~$10 / qt?) (you have auto trans, right?)
- PS fluid either OEM or get one from some shop that is "Honda" compatible and doesn't have any sealers or conditioners. Usually they have similar prices so OEM better.
- for coolant use OEM, as "Japanese" coolant from AZ/Napa etc. is about the same price and OEM is probably better (we pay ~$20 for one gallon from the dealer, but we have a shop discount). At least I used OEM and if we are doing t-belts that what we use.
- motor oil and filters - use whatever you want. Just make sure that it's changed on time and that you have enough of it. I go either with Mobil1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 0W-20 or 5W-20.
For chassis I try to stay OEM. For example OEM small parts like tie rods or sway bar links are sometimes cheaper than autozone parts. So you can either have $40 OEM tie rod end, or $30 Autozone tie rod end.
If you need something like bushings, OEM, if you need motor mounts, OEM, if you need upper control arms, OEM, etc.
For shocks go KYB from rockauto (they are either considered OEM equivalent or very close to OEM), or search the forum as there is couple alternatives.
Overall, OEM parts are cheaper and more available on hondas than they are on Euro cars, so that's what I usually pick for mine.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: PDX
About your question on PM.
For brakes I used "gold" rotors and "cmax" pads from Autozone. That's the stuff that we use in the shop most of the time and I have no complains. Recently they changed from "Cmax" to "Elite" and I'm not sure if they are as good. Need to do more brake jobs and see if there are any problems. A lot of people go with gold pads and they are also fine.
Brakes aren't rocket science. Just pick something decent - cheapest stuff is bad. Whole kits from ebay for ~$100 are also bad. You don't have brembos on the front, right?
There's no much gaskets and seals that you will change. On Hondas either go OEM or there's no gasket (like for oil pan or oil pump) and you use silicon. In the shop we usually go with "gray gasket maker" from Permatex or JB weld. They have longer drying times but are easier to work with. Hondabond is OEM but it dries faster,
For "low duty" gaskets like valve cover gaskets going from whatever Autozone / Napa / etc. offers is probably good enough. Or OEM.
For fluids;
- transmission use only Honda/Acura DW1 (OEM) (~$10 / qt?) (you have auto trans, right?)
- PS fluid either OEM or get one from some shop that is "Honda" compatible and doesn't have any sealers or conditioners. Usually they have similar prices so OEM better.
- for coolant use OEM, as "Japanese" coolant from AZ/Napa etc. is about the same price and OEM is probably better (we pay ~$20 for one gallon from the dealer, but we have a shop discount). At least I used OEM and if we are doing t-belts that what we use.
- motor oil and filters - use whatever you want. Just make sure that it's changed on time and that you have enough of it. I go either with Mobil1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 0W-20 or 5W-20.
For chassis I try to stay OEM. For example OEM small parts like tie rods or sway bar links are sometimes cheaper than autozone parts. So you can either have $40 OEM tie rod end, or $30 Autozone tie rod end.
If you need something like bushings, OEM, if you need motor mounts, OEM, if you need upper control arms, OEM, etc.
For shocks go KYB from rockauto (they are either considered OEM equivalent or very close to OEM), or search the forum as there is couple alternatives.
Overall, OEM parts are cheaper and more available on hondas than they are on Euro cars, so that's what I usually pick for mine.
For brakes I used "gold" rotors and "cmax" pads from Autozone. That's the stuff that we use in the shop most of the time and I have no complains. Recently they changed from "Cmax" to "Elite" and I'm not sure if they are as good. Need to do more brake jobs and see if there are any problems. A lot of people go with gold pads and they are also fine.
Brakes aren't rocket science. Just pick something decent - cheapest stuff is bad. Whole kits from ebay for ~$100 are also bad. You don't have brembos on the front, right?
There's no much gaskets and seals that you will change. On Hondas either go OEM or there's no gasket (like for oil pan or oil pump) and you use silicon. In the shop we usually go with "gray gasket maker" from Permatex or JB weld. They have longer drying times but are easier to work with. Hondabond is OEM but it dries faster,
For "low duty" gaskets like valve cover gaskets going from whatever Autozone / Napa / etc. offers is probably good enough. Or OEM.
For fluids;
- transmission use only Honda/Acura DW1 (OEM) (~$10 / qt?) (you have auto trans, right?)
- PS fluid either OEM or get one from some shop that is "Honda" compatible and doesn't have any sealers or conditioners. Usually they have similar prices so OEM better.
- for coolant use OEM, as "Japanese" coolant from AZ/Napa etc. is about the same price and OEM is probably better (we pay ~$20 for one gallon from the dealer, but we have a shop discount). At least I used OEM and if we are doing t-belts that what we use.
- motor oil and filters - use whatever you want. Just make sure that it's changed on time and that you have enough of it. I go either with Mobil1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 0W-20 or 5W-20.
For chassis I try to stay OEM. For example OEM small parts like tie rods or sway bar links are sometimes cheaper than autozone parts. So you can either have $40 OEM tie rod end, or $30 Autozone tie rod end.
If you need something like bushings, OEM, if you need motor mounts, OEM, if you need upper control arms, OEM, etc.
For shocks go KYB from rockauto (they are either considered OEM equivalent or very close to OEM), or search the forum as there is couple alternatives.
Overall, OEM parts are cheaper and more available on hondas than they are on Euro cars, so that's what I usually pick for mine.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 498
Seems like your inbox is full so I can't send you a message (what is it, early 2000?). Ask questions here. Chances are somebody will be looking for same stuff and might find answers here.
About fuel filter, It is build-in into the fuel pump so no there's no need.
Honestly I'm not even sure if you can buy the filter separate from the pump. Never needed to look for one.
About fuel filter, It is build-in into the fuel pump so no there's no need.
Honestly I'm not even sure if you can buy the filter separate from the pump. Never needed to look for one.
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