DCWnaptwn

anything I can do to crank out a couple more MPGs outta my 04 TL!?

TLAdvanced

iTrader: (4)

increase tire pressure. Mostly, just by accelerating slowly, and driving less aggresively.

Orlando TL

iTrader: (1)

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Q9npOYb_kg8

this has some really good info

SRT-11

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw2naDdfdwM&NR=1

here's another where the guy even has a TL! but I've been told that acetone will dick up your seals, and any rubber components in the fuel system. I used it for a while in my 350z and it really did increase the mileage but I didn't want to f up the internals. if I ever lease a car you can believe I'll be using acetone, lol!

Trew

iTrader: (1)

There has been some controversial talk about adding acetone to your gas - some have claimed that adding 2 ounces of pure acetone to every 10 gallons of gas will increase fuel economy by 25%. Something about the acetone allowing the fuel to fully vaporize in the combustion chamber, thus making it more efficient.

I'm not ready to try this, but if anyone has tried it I'm sure we'd like to know what impact its had on your fuel economy.

csmeance

doesn't work, mythbusters tested it. Also this kills your seals and may hurt you motor.

Best thing to do for better MPG, increase tires to 35PSI cold, change air filter, coast to lights, don't rev over 2.5K, and reduce some weight. I took out my spair tire, owners manuals (have digital copy) and someday will upgrade to a lightweight battery...

DCWnaptwn

ahh yes weight reduction, familiar with that when i used to go to the track with my old stang..same idea different purpose lol...what about C/A intake or even just a K&N filter?

also, how easy is it to change ur cabin filter?

SRT-11

get rid of the stock resonator and get a K&N, also the cabin air filter took me less than 10 minutes to replace

csmeance

takes about 10 minutes to change the interior one. But you need to change the ENGINE air filter... Or you could get the Cold Air Intake. From what I have seen, the intake causes some lower end HP and tq loss, so it really doesn't benefit anyone. In all honesty, get the J pipe or exhaust, you get a decent weight reduction and more low and high end HP and Tq.

1995hoo

Drive your car at the slowest speed that allows you to use your highest gear without lugging the engine or having to downshift. This principle applies to any car, not just the TL. I find that on most roads, that speed is around 65 mph in the TL with the 6MT, and certainly it's not less than where the 100 km/h mark is. I've gone 58 to 60 mph in 6th on flat roads, but with any sort of hill beyond the slightest minimal grade it needs to go down to 5th and then you start using more gas.

Also, use the cruise control if you can (recognizing that with ever-increasing traffic it can be very hard to do this). It will hold your speed a lot better than you can do on your own.

Walshstl

55mph@1500rpm for 5AT TLs. I think I read taht somewhere on here

Hokie TL-S

Trade it in for a Civic?

1995hoo

If that's true, I'd sacrifice some mpg in favor of getting to my destination in a somewhat reasonable time! 55.....ugh. (I'm not familiar with the 5AT TL, only driven one once on a test drive.)

TzarChasm

Accelerate slowly, coast as much as possible, and drive at the minimum speed supported by your highest gear. Thats about all you can do. Having a clean air filter is not important, and increasing tire pressure is minimal unless you do it to an unsafe degree. Although low tire pressure is definately bad. In general stick to the manufacturers specifications.

I am averaging about 28mpg on my 5AT and I drive about 60% town 40% highway. Really, thats damn good gas mileage for a pretty big car.

1995hoo

I don't know whether by "coast" you mean "coast in neutral" the way the so-called "hypermilers" like to do. I assume not, but if you do, note that doing this is illegal in most states for safety reasons. It's OK to coast up to a stop when you shift to neutral as you approach a red light, but the "hypermilers" advocate shifting to neutral on downhill grades and then rolling down the hill out of gear and doing other things like that.

jimsta

iTrader: (1)

I think when he says coast, he just means foot off the accelerator as often as possible while cruising around 30 MPH, or just coasting to a stop instead of gassing till the last minute and then breaking afterwards....which I think is retarded!

AcidHorse

Here's one:

Sit in your car and grab the steering wheel. Ease in your seat and close your eyes and pretend you have started your TL and youre driving it. Imagine all the scenery you pass by. If you are doing errands, pretend you are driving to the bank, grocery store, etc.

Repeat as necessary. If you want to go to Vegas, then ROAD TRIP! Imagine you have an endless tank of 93 and you're driving down the highway @ 130 w/ no cops.

The best thing here is you just did the maximmum MPG w/o spending a dime and your TL is newer because of the miles you didn't put on it.

PLUS you just accumulated a full tank of $6/gal of 93.

TL drivers never put 87 in their tanks, even if 93 goes up to $10/gal.

csmeance

jtkoo7

Getting an after market intake and/or getting a wider exhaust pipe with a racing muffler will help. However, either of these will also make the car run louder and void the warranty. Each one of them might give you a 1-2mpgs. I did both of them on my old grand am. Found the gas millage change as an unintended benefit.

jtkoo7

Does anybody know if this is legit? There's an add for it on acurazine.

http://slrmotorsports.com/shop/index...uct_detail&p=5

TzarChasm

that is absolutely what I mean. Coasting in neutral uses more gas than leaving it in gear.

TzarChasm

I have my doubts about anything that claims to give that much more HP AND mileage. Those two things are usually mutally exclusive.

jtkoo7

I looked into the slr chip. It seems to be another one of those things, that just tricks the car into thinking the air temp is colder than it is. It's amazing me how no one's come up with an actual ecu upgrade for this car.

csmeance

all of those "chips" for more power and more MPG are useless.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That hit the nail on the head. Cruising at 65 or less I'll hit 37 MPG on a long road trip. Speed up to 75 and it drops to 30.

DMZ

Not true, at least with a 6MT.

I shift into neutral and let the car coast whenever I see a red light up ahead. The RPM's drop to around 750 or so, the same as if I was stopped at a red light.
.
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phatbastard

Hypermiling


http://www.hypermiling.com/

DIRTYSOUTH_TYPE-S

No aftermarket mods void the warranty unless they're a direct cause of the problem.

Tripnbeats

get a hybrid

TzarChasm

Sorry but you are wrong. Shifting into neutral, besides being dangerous, causes the computer to have to inject fuel into the engine in order to keep the car running. If you just get off the gas, the transmission will keep the engine running and you will use NO gas.

sho_nuff1997

iTrader: (2)

so if I was getting pulled in neutral while my car is running for 60 miles, it would use more gas than somebody driving the same distance?

Tripnbeats

yea that doesnt make sense....it makes sense that u waste more gas when u have to match ground speed and gear speed when u go back into gear from coasting but not just coasting.

TzarChasm

Yes if you were being pulled while leaving it in gear.

TzarChasm

Look, this is really easy. If your car is in gear and YOU ARE NOT USING THE GAS PEDAL. The computer shuts down the fuel injector and you use NO gas. The engine is kept cycling by the TRANSMISSION. If you put it in neutral the fuel injectors have to put some fuel into the engine to keep it cycling since the transmission is not doing it.

sho_nuff1997

iTrader: (2)

now you are really not making sense. referring to 2 posts up

TzarChasm

read your owners manual.

sho_nuff1997

iTrader: (2)

I was referring to this comment

sho_nuff1997

iTrader: (2)

a car idling uses ~.5 gal/hr

if you are idling at 70 mph (coasting), you are using less gas than driving at 70 mph.

TzarChasm

if you want to talk about how much gas YOUR car will use when being towed, it will use LESS gas if you have it in gear when being towed. In fact if you leave it in gear while being towed you will use exactly NO gas. I explained it in my other post and used caps on the important words.

If you want to talk about net fuel usage while towing a car, I have no f'ing clue.

TzarChasm

you confusion seems to stem from the words driving and coasting. If you are holding your car at a constant speed by using the pedal to give it gas, then yes you MAY be using more than having it in neutral. If you just take your foot off the pedal, you are using NO gas at all. If you put it in neutral and take your foot off the pedal you are using .5gal/hr.

Its all about the pedal.