kostya

Hello everyone! I need to replace my engine and transmission mounts in my 2008 TL. Anyone know of a good place to get these? Dealer is a rip-off and I would like quality mounts. Thanks!

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

excelerateperformance

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

if you're looking for oem comfort, then get oem mounts, but you can find lower prices from one of our acura vendors here.

if you're looking for more performance, get aftermarket from xlr8, but it will cause some vibration at idle.

comfort or performance. choose one and only one.

kostya

Thanks for the replies!
I checked out xlr8 and found motor mounts but not transmission. How bad is the rattle at idle? Also are Orileys/Autozone mounts a no-go? Heard they are really bad. From what I know the 2008 TL needs hydrolic mounts.

This is what I found at xlr8: http://hoa.excelerateperformance.com/xlr8_performance/xlr8_engine_mounts/xlr8mm0408tl/i-1804871.aspx

Is that the correct engine mounts? Thanks!

kostya

What acura vendors?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

the ones here on acurazine. they sell oem parts for a good price, without all those dealer markups.

however, first you need to make a decision. OEM for comfort, or xlr8 for performance?

Seems like you're still undecided.

kostya

I'd like comfort. However, how much of a performance toll would it take? Lets say the OEM Acura Vendor parts give 10/10 comfort, how much #/10 would the performance be? Will I feel the car shaking or just a light rattle with the XLR8 mounts? If you could give me some sort of ratings of both for comfort/performance I'd appreciate that.

Highly appreciate your help!

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

paperboy makes great points.

I'd also like to add that if you go with OEM mounts again, they could go bad again.
Our engine mounts are known to go bad pretty easily.

XLR8 mounts are built to last very long, but you do sacrifice that for a tiny bit of engine vibration when idling.

To me, the pros outweigh the con (notice con is singular).

I wish I bought the XLR8 mounts instead of OEM.
I paid about the same price or more for my OEM mounts =(

kostya

Alright, so a tiny bit of vibration while idling but much better performance. Seems like XLR8 is the way to go. Any advice on what transmission mount to get? I'm pretty sure mine is bad.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

transmission mount isnt as important, so I dont think any company makes a performance version of it. You can get aftermarket but they will all be oem replicas.

if you want to go with the xlr8 mount you still have to decide what stiffness you want. I would recommend the softest one(lowest durometer) so it'll only be a little bit of vibration.
I rode in an automatic with the stiffest motor mounts before....at idle your whole dash would buzz and vibrate, and your seats will give you a massage. Anything stiffer than the softest xlr8 one should be reserved for stick shifts since they shift to neutral at idle.

kostya

I was going to ask about what durometer to choose next, but looks like you beat me to it! So would getting an Anchor transmission mount be good enough? Also, is it true that Anchor motor mounts are terrible?

Thanks!

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

Im not sure but the transmission mount is just a piece of rubber so I dont see how bad it can be. if you want to save a couple bucks, go with the anchor one

kostya

Looks like Orileys and them only sell the top transmission mount, so hope thats the only one I need. I heard there is 3 AT mounts though.

kostya

So just to be sure, for my 2008TL I should be getting this: XLR8 Engine Mounts - Excelerate - HOA - Japanese Performance Specialist with the Street (62A) durometers, right?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

^yes

also, for the 07-08 automatics, there are only 2 mounts. The top one is the one that typically wears out. There is a bottom one however that one is a real pain to change. It requires removing all the engine and transmission mounts so you can lift the engine a lot(probably at least 2") to clear the lower mount. luckily, the lower mount is built pretty strong so even at 150k+ miles I dont see many stress marks, and definitely no cracks.

LP700-4

Are there any symptoms for bad mounts? Im feeling some shuddering here and there at idle and while shifting is that caused by bad mounts?

kostya

There could be all sorts of symptoms. There are ways to test them which is what I had done.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

I had a rattling sound on cold startup once . I thought the fan was clipping something. Turned out to be a worn mount. Cold start fan, really?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

could be a lot of reasons but its easy to see if its a bad mount. if its not torn visibly, then its fine. after all its just a piece of rubber.
the top mount is under the intake tubing.

as for the lower mount dont worry about it unless you have an 04-06

kostya

Do you use OEM mounts paperboy42190?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Yes, he does

kostya

Who here actually uses xlr8?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

yep!

I'm sure some of the more performance oriented guys here do. I'd probably consider it if I had a stick shift. I like my car to be super smooth at idle

IIDXholic

iTrader: (5)

I have the XLR8 62a bushing size. At first I hated the vibration, as it completely changed the interior sound of my car, especially with the A/C on. But I have grown to love it. Now my pre cat deletes and non resonated exhaust sound louder. If you dont want the vibration at all, I highly suggest getting OEM.

kostya

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

RUBBER ASSY., FR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (AT)
RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)

Am I looking at the correct OEM parts?

kostya

Do you suggest I just change out front & side mounts? My TL is 2008.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I have the xlr8 mounts with the lowest durometer. They greatly increase performance but I would advise you to get oem if you want any comfort. My vibrations were so bad with the AC on that I had to turn it off when people were in the car. I also had to stuff padding between the front windshield and the dashboard to stop rattles.

I ended up replacing the rear xlr8 mount with oem and the vibrations are at a good level now! So I have xlr8 side and front and oem rear. Rear provides the most vibrations.

Go oem if you're not after tons of performance mods

kostya

Think thats just what I'll do. My Acura is at 70k miles and I sell my cars before they reach 100k, so as long as OEM parts last me 20k miles I will be golden. Plus itll be easier to sell, since most will be scared by vibrations.

Can someone varify that im looking at the correct OEM parts in the link above? Thanks guys!

threetwentyfizzle

A quick bump on this thread, as my search for this topic brought this up as one of the newest threads..

I'm in need of new engine mounts myself. I've been reading extensively on the pros/cons of OEM vs XLR8 mounts.

I personally have a Type-S 6MT, and the benefits of the polyurethane mounts seem enticing to me. I'm prob not going to mod this car very much, if at all. I have CAI that came with the car, so I'm stuck with that, but these are my symptoms I'm experiencing:

1. SLIGHT VIBRATION AT IDLE- I'm guessing the failed mounts are causing the engine to transfer vibration through to the cabin?

2. CAR BUCKS PRETTY BAD WHEN EASING OFF AND ON THE THROTTLE IN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR (6MT), i.e. rush hour traffic and commuting driving- Its a pretty violent buck or bogging down, I'm guessing theres too much engine play, flopping around when letting off the gas, and when giving the car throttle? and I'm talking about feathering the gas peddle, not launching the car.

3. EXCESSIVE ROAD VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (60mph+)- I've been hunting down and trying to solve this issue for the last year and a half now. I've Replaced my tires, multiple alignments, replaced my control arm/"compliance" bushings, and roadforced my tires. none have solved this issue. None of my Waffle wheels are bent, I've inspected the rims thoroughly for any visible bends or irregularities, and the roadforcing proved the tires and rims to be in good order. The vibration is felt through the steering wheel, and seems to be intermittent at highway speeds, it comes and goes. I would't say it completely goes, the vibration fluctuates from being very light, to moderate at a consistent speed.

4. HEAR SOME LIGHT CLUNKING WHEN GOING OVER SPEED BUMPS OR CRACKS OR BUMPS IN THE ROAD- most noticeable at lower speeds. Doesn't seem to be audible from the struts or suspension per say, but I do notice the noise coming from the passenger area up front. Side engine mount? Maybe the sound is my engine rocking around going over bumps?

5. I have some auto technician friends (BMW Techs), so they helped me check my car recently. they inspected my suspension, and said it looked pretty sound, my struts weren't giving any excessive play when they busted out the pry bar checking ball joints and such, and the struts are not leaking any fluid. HOWEVER, we were rocking the motor by giving it throttle and playing with the clutch, and it looked like it was flexing around pretty bad.

I'm assuming that all these symptoms as a whole are signs of bad engine mounts, on top of the various other threads I've been reading on this forum. Please, someone correct me if I'm wrong on any of these warning signs and symptoms, or if there may be another area for me to address to fix the road vibration and engine bogging/bucking issues.

So with that being said, back on topic, I'm considering the XLR8 mounts with the softest bushing to bring as much comfort as possible to my ride. Regarding the vibration, is this only noticeable at engine idle, or would the vibration be consistent while driving such as the issue I'm trying to fix right now. I would be ok with some minor cabin vibration at idle as long as driving is smooth for me, and I dont feel like my car is a bucking bronco when letting off the accelerator peddle in 2nd gear. Secondly, I read in this thread that the idle vibration is not that bad in a 6MT? Can someone elaborate or give some personal experience who are using these mounts?

Thanks for the advice, I am possibly considering OEM mounts as well as I would like a nice smooth ride, and that's what I'm ultimately after. Could someone kindly provide the exact part numbers needed if I decided to go that route as well? I've been to Acuraoemparts.com, and looking at the parts diagram just gives me a headache, and I don't know if I need the brackets and all the other things they break down in the diagram. I just want to know what necessary part #'s I need for all 3 mounts.

Thanks again!

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

sounds like all your symptoms point to motor mounts

threetwentyfizzle

Thanks @paperboy42190, now the big decision is whether or not to get the XLR8 Mounts or OEM. I would like to stiffen up my ride a bit, but I don't want the vibrations to be excessive, I don't have a baseline to compare the "normal vibration" those mounts give. Like I said in my post, if the softest bushing insert only causes a minor subtle vibration only at idle, and if its a little less pronounced on a Manual Transmission sitting in neutral, I would pull the trigger on those mounts in a heartbeat. Maybe and hopefully an XLR8 Rep sees this thread and my post and can give me a little more info regarding their mounts.

I am on the fence though, I'm looking to buy mounts ASAP anyway regardless, but don't know what OEM part numbers need to be replaced if I go that route. I see the parts diagram pricing out brackets and rubber assy. and all these things I don't know if I need to replace or not, so if anyone knows the bare minimum part #'s that I would need for the OEM replacement for all 3 mounts, I'd greatly appreciate it

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I changed out my mounts for performance reasons and love the upgraded mounts. BUT when I replaced all 3 to the lowest durometer the vibrations are very noticeable. They are really bad with the AC on and I had to put foam strips between the dash and the windshield to stop rattles. The vibrations were kind of embarrassing with company in the car so I decided to change the rear mount back to oem.

Now the vibrations are much lower and are at a comfortable level. I love the mounts but changing the rear one back to oem was crucial to me. Some say the vibrations aren't bad but this is my personal experience. I've heard a few people on this forum that also changed back to oem for the rear one.

Some say the mounts will soften up as they are broken in, but the mounts I have were bought used so they were broken in already and the person I bought it from was selling them because the vibrations were too much