My Venture for A 6mt (Type-S)
#81
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No harm with downshifting as long as you rev-match properly... I always downshift before coming to a complete stop usually - I get to hear some nice burbles and pops from the exhaust from the back-pressure too haha.
Rev-matching in the TL/TL-S is pretty easy too IMO.
As long as engine RPM's match the speed of the gearbox (hence the term rev-match), there are absolutely zero side effects on your gearbox components (clutch, syncros, etc.) from downshifting. It's a more efficient way of driving too.
Rev-matching in the TL/TL-S is pretty easy too IMO.
As long as engine RPM's match the speed of the gearbox (hence the term rev-match), there are absolutely zero side effects on your gearbox components (clutch, syncros, etc.) from downshifting. It's a more efficient way of driving too.
Yeah, if you have experience driving stick, there's no harm at all and the oem clutch is pretty robust...don't dump it though, go easy on it...like a new girlfriend. It'll last you.
I would look into removing the slave cylinder checkvalve though...I do recall having a bitch of a time taking off smoothly originally even with a lot of years of experience driving manual Hondas.
I
#82
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Yeah I have been driving like this for years, I usually only rev match when I'm know I'm going to be gunning it in the gear I downshift too, just for the extra torque to pass or whatever. But for now, I will continue to slow the car down by downshift a gear or two, depending on how fast I am going, and then just resorting to applying brakes only and leaving the car in neutral (especially when I know I will be coming to a complete stop)
yeah that first gear on these cars is a biiiiiaaattcchhh. I will look into the slave cylinder check.
I
yeah that first gear on these cars is a biiiiiaaattcchhh. I will look into the slave cylinder check.
I
#87
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
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Joecop67 (12-21-2017)
#91
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I will look into taking the slave cylinder out. But for right now I plan on leaving it. Still have some issues with first, especially on a incline but for the most part im ok with it. Good to kno there is an option down the line though!
#95
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So a little update...
I've been driving the 6mt daily to work and back, and after I got the fluid swapped out to GM Synchromesh Friction Modified, the shifting is much smoother and no more 3rd gear pop out symptoms.
I also added tint, sadly weather has been crap here so still haven't gotten around to taking any pictures, will create a new photo thread here once I do though.
Reason for posting today is my check engine light came on last night on my way home from work. I had just pulled out of the lot and driven less than 2 minutes when I noticed the light was on. I was not able to get a scanner yesterday, but I just pulled the codes and these are the results: (see pics)
As far as my understanding goes, the P0134 code is for a bad O2 sensor.
(1) is it safe to drive the vehicle with this error code? It will be about a week or so before I get a new sensor in
(2) since there are a few sensors on these vehicles, is it confirmed that this is the bank 1 sensor (according to results on azine)
(3) is there a recommended brand of 02 sensors?, or is OEM fine?
a P0134.
as per this second code, I've looked and haven't find any answer as to what it could be.....anyone ever seen this before???
I've been driving the 6mt daily to work and back, and after I got the fluid swapped out to GM Synchromesh Friction Modified, the shifting is much smoother and no more 3rd gear pop out symptoms.
I also added tint, sadly weather has been crap here so still haven't gotten around to taking any pictures, will create a new photo thread here once I do though.
Reason for posting today is my check engine light came on last night on my way home from work. I had just pulled out of the lot and driven less than 2 minutes when I noticed the light was on. I was not able to get a scanner yesterday, but I just pulled the codes and these are the results: (see pics)
As far as my understanding goes, the P0134 code is for a bad O2 sensor.
(1) is it safe to drive the vehicle with this error code? It will be about a week or so before I get a new sensor in
(2) since there are a few sensors on these vehicles, is it confirmed that this is the bank 1 sensor (according to results on azine)
(3) is there a recommended brand of 02 sensors?, or is OEM fine?
a P0134.
as per this second code, I've looked and haven't find any answer as to what it could be.....anyone ever seen this before???
#96
Advanced
With the O2 sensor did they happen to replace it? Because I had mines replaced before I bought mines and u have to drive it daily to make the code and check engine light to go off.
#97
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
not sure what you mean by having to drive the car daily to make the CEL go off, but it can be easily cleared by using a code scanner...
#98
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Did some more research and realized its not a huge deal :P
Light actually went away on its own too.
Still wondering if OEM is the waaaay to go?>
Light actually went away on its own too.
Still wondering if OEM is the waaaay to go?>
#99
Suzuka Master
I would use OEM supplier or good name brand like Denso.