Morimoto LED 2.0 dim
#1
Great Northerner
Thread Starter
Morimoto LED 2.0 dim
Just put them in and am underwhelmed by the light output. I understand that LED’s can’t really compete with HID’s at this point in time but these are abnormally DIM. Does the 06’ TL use a CANBUS system? I have 9006’s in the fog/driving lights and they are so bright I actually seem to be using them for my headlights now. I just upgraded the front bumper to the 07-08 so I can have factory driving lights down below but haven’t wired them yet. But the difference between the D2S’s and the 9006’s is huge. I’m not sure what to do besides put my HID’s back in and call it a day 🤷♂️
#3
Great Northerner
Thread Starter
That’s exactly what I’m thinking—HID’s are definitely the way to go. I already miss the range, power and not having to worry all the time some little fan at the end of the LED is going to crap out. Unfortunately, unless you own a high-end Merc, BMW, Audi, or Maserati the technology for aftermarket LED’s just isn’t there. I’m still bummed I’m out $120. It’s just strange how the driving lights are crazy, very white and very bright. The D2S’s...I might as well use 3 year old halogens. No joke, they are that dim.
#4
Suzuka Master
That because the project never intended for LED purpose, every reflector/ projector is designed to optimize maximum light out put as intended. Halogen/ HID/ LED..... different bulb has different light beam arch, this is why HID is not recommended using Halogen reflector.
The main problem is that 3G TL getting so cheap now these day on the use car market and people so cheap (just in general). they refuse to buy a good pair of HID like CBI/CBB/Night Breaker/ Vison (which not even expensive anymore) etc... and put in a cheap no name China bulb. The projector in the TL isn't exactly the best within Acura line up either, the TSX and RL from the same era will put the TL into shame in term of light out put.
The main problem is that 3G TL getting so cheap now these day on the use car market and people so cheap (just in general). they refuse to buy a good pair of HID like CBI/CBB/Night Breaker/ Vison (which not even expensive anymore) etc... and put in a cheap no name China bulb. The projector in the TL isn't exactly the best within Acura line up either, the TSX and RL from the same era will put the TL into shame in term of light out put.
#5
Great Northerner
Thread Starter
I appreciate the input! I do indeed have the CBB’s that I ordered from TRS. Great company btw and highly recommended. I’ve been dealing with this for a couple of months now however. I first bought new factory/OEM HID ballasts and igniters. It worked very well for about a month. Then they started to dim again. The CBB’s are about a year old. I keep them on during the day too because I don’t have a proper (ie decent looking) set of DRL’s yet. I heard someone using a set of Audi S6 DRL’s and having good luck.
I’m on the road a lot and am usually listening to deafening levels of Rammstein lol. My amps aren’t doing my alternator any favors. I’ve checked the alternator with my digital ohmmeter and am still getting a consistent 14V (w/o everything going, A/C, loud Rammstein).
I bought a new alternator just in case but haven’t put it in yet. I don’t experience light flickering which is usually a sign the alternator is going bad, no dimming during loud punches of the amps...
As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator. Perhaps that’s my issue...idk. I’ve had lights dim before with halogens but not with HID’s. I do have a comparison to go by though. About two years ago I had the Morimoto 1.0 LED’s and I was very impressed with the light output. The d@mn drivers kept dying though so I gave up and went back to my CBI’s at the time.
Something isn’t right with the power output...just not sure where. I’ve slowly been eliminating the variables but no luck yet.
I’m on the road a lot and am usually listening to deafening levels of Rammstein lol. My amps aren’t doing my alternator any favors. I’ve checked the alternator with my digital ohmmeter and am still getting a consistent 14V (w/o everything going, A/C, loud Rammstein).
I bought a new alternator just in case but haven’t put it in yet. I don’t experience light flickering which is usually a sign the alternator is going bad, no dimming during loud punches of the amps...
As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator. Perhaps that’s my issue...idk. I’ve had lights dim before with halogens but not with HID’s. I do have a comparison to go by though. About two years ago I had the Morimoto 1.0 LED’s and I was very impressed with the light output. The d@mn drivers kept dying though so I gave up and went back to my CBI’s at the time.
Something isn’t right with the power output...just not sure where. I’ve slowly been eliminating the variables but no luck yet.
#6
Suzuka Master
I appreciate the input! I do indeed have the CBB’s that I ordered from TRS. Great company btw and highly recommended. I’ve been dealing with this for a couple of months now however. I first bought new factory/OEM HID ballasts and igniters. It worked very well for about a month. Then they started to dim again. The CBB’s are about a year old. I keep them on during the day too because I don’t have a proper (ie decent looking) set of DRL’s yet. I heard someone using a set of Audi S6 DRL’s and having good luck.
I’m on the road a lot and am usually listening to deafening levels of Rammstein lol. My amps aren’t doing my alternator any favors. I’ve checked the alternator with my digital ohmmeter and am still getting a consistent 14V (w/o everything going, A/C, loud Rammstein).
I bought a new alternator just in case but haven’t put it in yet. I don’t experience light flickering which is usually a sign the alternator is going bad, no dimming during loud punches of the amps...
As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator. Perhaps that’s my issue...idk. I’ve had lights dim before with halogens but not with HID’s. I do have a comparison to go by though. About two years ago I had the Morimoto 1.0 LED’s and I was very impressed with the light output. The d@mn drivers kept dying though so I gave up and went back to my CBI’s at the time.
Something isn’t right with the power output...just not sure where. I’ve slowly been eliminating the variables but no luck yet.
I’m on the road a lot and am usually listening to deafening levels of Rammstein lol. My amps aren’t doing my alternator any favors. I’ve checked the alternator with my digital ohmmeter and am still getting a consistent 14V (w/o everything going, A/C, loud Rammstein).
I bought a new alternator just in case but haven’t put it in yet. I don’t experience light flickering which is usually a sign the alternator is going bad, no dimming during loud punches of the amps...
As far as I can tell it’s the original alternator. Perhaps that’s my issue...idk. I’ve had lights dim before with halogens but not with HID’s. I do have a comparison to go by though. About two years ago I had the Morimoto 1.0 LED’s and I was very impressed with the light output. The d@mn drivers kept dying though so I gave up and went back to my CBI’s at the time.
Something isn’t right with the power output...just not sure where. I’ve slowly been eliminating the variables but no luck yet.
since you living in the snow state, have you checked all the connections and terminals make sure it not corroded? This is my 1st time heard HID getting dim. May be you can get someone with a more electrical knowledge to see where the dip (if there is any) in your power supply.
#7
LED won't compare to HID. My suggestion to get rid of the dim LEDs, is to get rid of the dim LEDs. Put them on eBay for someone using halogens, you'll never achieve the same light output with a single LED socket as you will with an HID in that socket.
High Intensity Diodes = Light Emitting Diodes + High Intensity Output
You're trying to solve a problem that isn't there. Use your CBBs, there are no higher output bulbs on the market.
I can't make sense of the rest of your post, are your lights flickering? HIDs don't "dim" like halogens/LEDs with lower voltage, they flicker on and off. What exactly is the problem you're trying to solve here?
I can tell you running your headlights 24/7 as DRLs... is a terrible idea if you pay for your own car. Expect to buy a new set annually.
High Intensity Diodes = Light Emitting Diodes + High Intensity Output
You're trying to solve a problem that isn't there. Use your CBBs, there are no higher output bulbs on the market.
I can't make sense of the rest of your post, are your lights flickering? HIDs don't "dim" like halogens/LEDs with lower voltage, they flicker on and off. What exactly is the problem you're trying to solve here?
I can tell you running your headlights 24/7 as DRLs... is a terrible idea if you pay for your own car. Expect to buy a new set annually.
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#8
Senior Moderator
They're DIM because the optics aren't properly suited for an LED headlight diode, switch back to HID.
#9
Mr. Detail
I swapped out the halogens for 9006 LED bulbs before I did the right thing and got retrofits. Other than the light being whiter (which was nice), there didn't seem to be much gain in overall visibility even though the LEDs were supposed to be designed with halogen reflector housings in mind. Beam pattern was wider but didn't seem to reach quite as far.
The lights I use when I road and MTB though, they are absolutely nuts. But the housings are designed specifically for LED bulbs. 2000 lumens on my handlebars, 1500 on my helmet.
To MI6: there are HID bulb upgrades, Osram are really good. And Morimoto projectors are great. One or the other or both and you'll have a ton of light.
The lights I use when I road and MTB though, they are absolutely nuts. But the housings are designed specifically for LED bulbs. 2000 lumens on my handlebars, 1500 on my helmet.
To MI6: there are HID bulb upgrades, Osram are really good. And Morimoto projectors are great. One or the other or both and you'll have a ton of light.
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