TVL65

Well a few months ago it was the radiator blowing at 105,000 miles, now it was rear brake caliper locking up & destroying the disc, which the other disc was also worn, I'm on my 3rd set of front discs too on the car, when the brakes wear out the discs are worn out too and cannot be resurfaced. When the car was under warranty they fixed a rear main seal leaking and now the leak has started again, every time I bring it in for an oil change the dealer finds a new problem, worn front suspension parts, bushings, control arms, ball joints on and on. The 98' accord I had went 289,000 miles and not one single front end suspension part needed changing. At 119,000 my TLS is a money pit.

TVL65

BTW I told the dealer I'm not fixing it anymore, if the car rolls forward & stops thats all it needs to do.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Do yourself and others a favor, fix all the safety related issues. Take it Paul, hes in Clifton

https://acurazine.com/forums/ny-nj-3...rth-nj-883797/

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

or sell it. You post a "problem" thread regarding your car a lot.

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-tal.../#post14893071

6spd-GERCO

It's cheaper than blow and hookers.

Adobeman

And this surprises you why? They are tasked with making revenue for the dealer. This often involves using the practice of fixing things at the earliest onset of the slightest issue and/or recommending more maintenance than the manufacturer recommends. The justification most will use is they "don't know when they will see you again so it could be more expensive to fix if you let it go" Sometimes that's true, most often I find it's not.

I'm not saying your car has no issues. How could I know for sure. But at 119Kmi it's unreasonable to think you shouldn't have to do some maintenance/repairs. How many, I don't know. Probably TB and Water pump. Also, 3 sets of rotors? You did that...it's not typical. I get insane mileage out of my brakes (>80K) but I drive an MT and often lift and coast (in gear) rather than brake hard and late.


And - My guess is that 98' accord you had for 289,000 miles absolutely needed some suspension work of some sort whether or not anyone told you so. No way it didn't have "worn front suspension parts, bushings, control arms, ball joints on and on"...

GreenSpades

Stop taking it to the dealer. Learn to DIY more, this car is very easy to learn on. Or if you cant or wont or dont have a garage etc, then find an independent shop you can build a trusting relationship with.

beastUA6

Sounds like OP gets taken for a ride every time he takes it to the dealer. I can almost guarantee your rear main seal was created by the techs at the dealership and not an actual problem. Seen it with my own eyes as I used to be a tech at a dealership. As far as your brakes go...sounds like you neglect them or don't realize u need them fast enough until it's too late and ur pads start eating your rotors. Brakes are some of the easiest maintenance items to do at your own home. Good indicator of when u need pads other than the obvious brake squeal....check ur brake fluid level. If it looks low, good chances are ur pads are about done. You honestly should never have to add brake fluid unless ur flushing it all out. Just my opinion based on my experience...

Ernest72

A new one is 45k. A lot more expensive than your current car. They call them stealerships for a reason.

wackjum

I guarantee you are being taken by the dealer.

My mom was taken by a local dealer when she was basically spending $800 per oil change. One day I got wind of this and took a look at the receipts. I saw all sorts of crap work being done.

YeuEmMaiMai

get an honest shop...Whitebear Acura/Subaru is very honest. Been using them 10 years.

Sure let them tell you what is wrong. if you are even SLIGHLY mechanically inclined you can YT a lot of those repairs

rear brakes are a cake walk especially if your parking brake does not need to be changed.

1. Loosen lugs on rear tires
2. jack car up and support rear on jack stands
3. remove wheel lugs
4. remove wheel
5. looses caliper guide pin bolts and remove
6. remove caliper from bracket and using a bungee hang it from your rear spring
7. remove pads
8. remove caliper bracket bolts and bracket
9. if they are present remove screws from rotor
10. remove rotor and discard if it is badly worn ( I would just replace it anyways)

Now for the actual work part
11. put copper based anti-seize on hub where it makes contact with rotor
12. remove caliper guide pins, clean and apply generous amounts of caliper grease to them.
13. inspect guide pin boots and replace if needed otherwise use brake clean and spray out inside of guide pin holes, remove shims and clean the bracket.
14. install guide pins and seat them on the boot making sure they move freely, if they bind at all, replace the bracket
15. install new shims and coat them with copper based anti seize where they make contact with the pad ears
16. reinstall/(install new) rotor. install screws after coating them with anti-seize
17. reinstall bracket
18. put copper based anti-seize on pad where it contacts caliper and on the pad ears where it touches the shims
19. install pads with the low brake warning on the inside pad
20. using a small C clamp SLOWLY push piston back into bore. coat the piston with copper based anti-seize where it touches the brake pad.
21. reinstall caliper and then install caliper bolts
22. get your friend to pump the brakes as you loosen the bleeder and let some fluid out (to make sure there are no air bubbles), tighten bleeder as friend presses down on brakes.
23. make sure when friend presses brake pedal you cannot move the wheel hub.
24. reinstall wheel and hand tighten lugs in a criss cross pattern until the wheel is snug against the rotor.

repeat 4-24 for other side

lower car, tighten lugs to spec and then re check 1 week later

Rotors are about $40 each and pads are $60. the rest of the stuff you need is less than $20 including anti-seize, brake clean, rags, etc

pohljm

I get 80K mileage on factory pads in so cal. with auto. 110k now, no need for rotors in sight. your service advisor loves you.
brakes and a radiator at +100k is great in any case.

truonghthe

radiator could be leak as soon as 75k miles, the rotor and seize caliper actually a easy fix (for those who choose to rebuilt them instead replace), OP you living in the northern state where the rear caliper will seize every summer (if your car is DD). During the winter salt got into the caliper cause corrosion you can only help it slow down by applying silicon paste around the dust boot. I had my fair of share of constantly rebuilding caliper summer after summer. The rear main seal leak? how bad is the leak? did you jack the car up and go under to confirm this? most of the time dealer will tell you that its leak but if you go under you will never find the leak unless you park over night and there is a puddle of oil on the ground. At this point keep ignore the dealer "leak" and move on. The suspension issues, did you got a independent shop/mechanic confirm this? looks like you need another dealer for service. BTW is this Springfield Acura, Bridge water Acura or open road Acura. To be honest when I shopping for my TL almost every dealer in NJ is shady to me.

shownfu

Have another place look at your car and see if they report the same issues.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Rear calipers seize on these cars because people neglect the basic maintenance of pulling the slides and cleaning and greasing them. Northern state cars are more prone to this issue. The boot can become dislodged and allow salt and sand to seize the slide.

More details on the radiator. Did a rock take it out?

And I guarantee they're BS 'ing you on not being able to turn your rotors.

As far as "worn" suspension parts, they all wear. They make a car lose that "new car tightness". Doesn't mean you have to start replacing them. Again, dealerships are generally crooks and like to instill a false sense of urgency in people who may not know any better.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

The dealer is playing you because they know they have a good chance you'll fork over your money.

DMZ

I do too! What's amazing is the # of drivers out there who get pissed off when I coast to a red light and honk because they're too stupid to realize that. Seems almost everyone is in a hurry to get to a red light!

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erg69

^^ This happens to me at least once a week. They honk and cut me off only to slam on their brakes and wait at the same light. People are dumb.

polobunny

I coast even with my AT whenever I see a yellow or a red and often the car behind will ride my trunk like it makes sense to brake hard once you're at the light. IDGAF

jeepthing

☝agreed.
I do the same with my 5speed MT Jeep Comanche. Lots of coasting and down shifting...
also...
Doesn't matter whether or not you drive and AT or MT, you need to down shift appropriately to help you slow down and not put forth all the work and effort on pads and rotors. The transmission can withstand so much more abuse than two little pads...

polobunny

I'd rather go through pads than the transmission on the TL. Because downshifting to slow down on the TL AT is going to kill it eventually. Pads are cheap, transmission rebuilds not so much.

DMZ

By all means, TAKE IT TO PAUL! No one else is allowed to touch my car.
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erg69

Is that the Paul that specializes in MT swaps? Too soon?

polobunny

Not too soon and not the same Paul.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Why turn rear rotors at all? New ones are $35 bucks.

TacoBello

cuz you need dem $90/side cross drilled speed holes to brake faster, yo. Rotational mass, dawg.

Cuz less surface area means you brake faster. Or is that break faster? I forget.