dap0901

Hello 3G nation,

I am a long time TL owner, since 2006. I am finally ready to start modding my 04 TL 6MT with 170k. I wanted to get some general advice on where to start.

1. I used the search function and I have a list of mods that I already know I want (SC anyone?)

2. I am starting with price (low to high) for now on how I am going to mod.

3. I will be dynoing as I go so that I can benchmark.

4. This will probably be a 2 year project. I am estimating, but we will see if the wife gives me the green light to spend faster...

5. End goal is to have a car that is truly what I want and hopefully will turn heads.

6. My inspiration

TacoBello

Just as a heads up, the picture you posted is of a 07-08 Type S, meaning your 04 front end looks very different. It IS possible to make it look like the car you posted, but you gotta buy the parts (headlights, front bumper, front lip, fog lights, wiring harness, etc).

Personally, I think it may be advantageous to start with buying the expensive bits. Why? Many people buy the cheap stuff first and get all excited, but when it comes time to do some serious modding, that's where everything ends. If you want to SC your car, start saving and spending!

The good thing is, it seems the J32 engine seems to take to the SC better than the Type S J35. Not saying it can't be done, but I believe many guys have blown their J35s eventually after adding forced induction. I remember there being a thread on here discussing as to why this is happening.

Wheels can be an expensive option. If you want a comfortable ride and cheaper tires, stick to 18" wheels. 19" look good, but they come at a compromise. A good idea for wheels is to find what you like, find the size and offset you want, and then search for them used and in good shape. You can save a bit of money that way. Also, don't get nice wheels and then absolutely cheap out on the tires. Good tires are one of the best mods you can do.

The A-Spec kit is a very nice addition to the TL. It does zero for performance and the likes, it stings your pocket book, but once you get it on your car you're like "wow. Why didn't I get this sooner?!" It simply transforms the car.

Suspension can be expensive too. I'm guessing you're a bit older since you're married, and likely not into the bone jarring ride or slammed look either. I think a quality suspension upgrade is a must before you get wheels. You get what you pay for, so if you pay $700 for coilovers, expect everything about them to equal the price you paid.

Most importantly, before starting to mod, make sure all the maintenance is up to date on your car. It's silly to splurge on nice wheels, while knowing your fluids need replacing, or your clutch is toast, or your bumper is beat to shit. Take care of the shit on the car that needs work in stock form, before diving into other stuff.

Brake upgrades are more for looks than anything, unless you're spending some serious money on a big brake kit made for the car, and even then, unless your driving the car HARD, you likely will never notice the difference. The stock brakes are good for what they do. You can switch up the rotors and brake pads, but don't expect your car to become a brake monster. The rotors will do nothing besides look pretty. The pads will help. The best thing to do is put in a good brake fluid. You should replace it annually for best performance, because as it ages, it loses it's capabilities. Personally I think stainless steel brake lines are retarded and a safety concern (just had one fail a couple of days ago), but others will argue they are great. They are supposed to stiffen up the pedal feel, but I guess it's been tested and proven and the changes are near zero. It's more of a placebo effect.

If you want to turn heads, be prepared to spend money. On an old car. You can see why people back away from the expensive mods when they start considering them.

Burnsy95

I'm in the same boat as you brother. Just recently picked up my 2005 TL with 110k miles on her and have a list of everything I want done to her. Deciding right now on weather I should go with tinted windows first or a whole new sound system. I do like the idea that TacoBello stated saying that you should get some of the more expensive mods out of the way first. After reading that I might just go ahead and save for a few more weeks and end up buying something more expensive. BUT I'm also ready to lose my modding virginity!

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure my suggestion is opposite of what 99% of people do, but personally I think people do things backwards.

I think your single FIRST mod should be a Hondata. You can do a baseline dyno, and a tuned dyno. Now, not only do you have the car optimized as it sits, you have the ability to optimize EVERY single mod you do going forward. You add PCDs - you can tune it properly. You change cams, exhaust, intake - ANYTHING - you can make sure it is tuned properly.

I am utterly amazed that we are in the year 2015 and fuel injection has been around for 30 years and yet people will still modify a car but not properly tune it. I've seen so many heads/cam Mustangs from back in the day where jokers would slap parts on but wonder why it ran like crap.

Tuning will give better performance, fuel economy, and longevity.

The only way I would recommend not doing a Hondata first is if you are doing asthetic mods first.

For my car - I did coilovers, wheels, and ASpec lip first. My car was already tinted so I had that done. I would have done taillights and a paint job before the Hondata, but I got a STUPID good deal on it so I had to grab it. Since I already had the Hondata, I found a great deal on PCDs and snagged them as well - and I was able to fully optimize the tune for them.

usdmJON

Id typically suggest going with suspension first. Lowering any car a couple inches makes it look a lot more sporty.

After Im a bit lower I look at a few cosmetic things just to make me a bit more happy with how the car looks.

Then look at some performance.

Once I have touched base on suspension, cosmetics, and go fast parts I then just keep hitting all three categories.

dap0901

That was very insightful Sreaminz28... I never thought about it in that way. I actually was going to get the TL dyno'd just so I could have a baseline. I modded a 1991 Legend way back in my college days and I remember that was one of the things i forgot to do was to do a baseline dyno. After I modded it, I dyno'd it and didn't have a real sense of how far i had progressed. But I knew from my "butt" seat dyno it was all progress.

Thanks guys I really appreciate all the feedback. I will post my list later this week and let you know my progress as I go.

Sorry one "Noob" question what are PCDs?

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

if your going to do a j pipe or something like a supercharger, makes no sense unless you have a full exhaust. Usually I recommend starting back to front. if you have precats and intake on a stock catback, or staged catback, it creates the bottle neck effect, same with just a j pipe on a stock car, etc.

personally and hypothetically I usually ask my customers, "what are your goals?" and "how much do you have to spend?". The reason I ask both of those is because if your price point is 1k, the best gain would be for instance a catback, because adding the 500 j pipe to get little to no gains since your running a stock catback makes no sense.


If your getting a tune and sc, make sure its when your fully bolted because having a sc, adding a catback after a tune or other parts will throw it off..

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Our cars do not have a typical exhaust manifold or 'headers' like you'd see on most cars. The cylinder head merges all of the exhaust ports into a single opening and then the exhaust manifold also contains the catalytic converter. When you eliminate those cats, they refer to the pipe as a PCD or Pre-cat delete. I think it's a bit of a misnomer since it is deleting the main cat - not a 'pre' cat. The car has 3 catalytic converters - one off of each cylinder head and then one after the J pipe. The J pipe is the pipe that merges the two exhaust banks to connect to the exhaust system. It's call a J pipe due to the way it bends like the letter J.

Visual - typical car header/exhaust manifold:




3G TL Stock "exhaust manifold with integrated catalytic converter"




3G TL Cylinder head - single port:




3G TL - PCD / Pre-cat delete~3G TL 'header' so to speak:

TacoBello

Hondata is a good idea. In all honesty, squeezing more power out of the TL is a fruitless endeavour unless you're slapping on a SC or turbo.

With suggesting the SC first, I was thinking the Hondata would go along with it. If I'm not mistaken, you can't really have one without the other.

ExcelerateRep

I think starting with some supporting mods is a great idea, especially is you plan to supercharge down the road. Doing PCDs and a catless J-Pipe will provide some grunt while your naturally aspirated, and really shine once you supercharge the car. The modifications you do to the car should be aligned with where you want the car to be down the road. If you value power over aesthetic looks, a intake and J-Pipe is the place the start. If you'd rather have the car look and sound better, a catback and coilovers would be a great place to start.

I highly recommend starting with our V3 J-Pipe. It will provide a better growl to the exhaust tone, extra horsepower, and will help exhaust flow if you get a SC.
XLR8 J-Pipe - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

theoretically; modding begins with ideas.

if you're all over the place with your car, you'll be lost.

pick a goal and stick to it!

ExcelerateRep

Edit: V2 J-Pipe!

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I disagree. The restriction from the last cat to the tail pipes is minimal. It's been proven time and time again that modern cars only pick up 5-6 whp from a catback system. Stock setups are pretty efficient. Aftermarket setups make noise and unleash the last few horsepower. Exhaust manifolds, down pipes, stock cats are the biggest power killers.

Acura93

I vote for wheels, new wheels will give your car a different look!

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

Are you only going for visual or performance as well?

dap0901

Both really. I want a functional daily driver TL that is a sleeper to the untrained eye. Nothing flashy. I am also working with my son on this build so it is a Daddy/son project.

Below is my list of potential mods:

• LED interior lights dome lamp & license plate
• Trunk lip spoiler
• Brake caliper paint
• Type S badge
• Shift Nob
• Short Shifter
• Rear window shield spoiler
• Sport pedals
• ISIm (Ipod integration)
• Lug nuts
• Dynos (3 dynos at varying stages of my project)
• Brake lines SS
• Pulleys
• Interstate Smaller battery (MT-51R)
• Springs/Shocks
• Tint
• Air Intake
• Piaa high performance fog lights
• Rear lamps (TL type -S)
• Window Shield (mine is slightly cracked)
• EBC Brake kit
• J Pipe V2
• Sway bars
• Speakers & Sub (complete & install)
• Remote start and keyless entry
• Full Aspec kit
• Exhaust
• FlashPro and kit
• Upgraded Clutch
• Vossen Wheels (probably go cheaper now that I saw the price...)
• Super Charger (Yes; I want speed)

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Please don't put a Type S badge on a base model.

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

You don't need an intake, it does nothing for performance, trust me I know, you can just remove the resonator in the OEM intake for the sound.

I would invest in a J-pipe def.

Everything else looks good.

TacoBello

Do NOT put a Type S badge on your car. I repeat, do NOT put a Type S badge on your car.

TacoBello

Also, don't do the PIAA fog lights. It'll look like shit. Do the accord sedan fog lights. It'll look waaaaaay cleaner.

Sounds like you're planning to spend, give or take, 15+k on a car that's probably worth 8-10k. And you'll likely never sell the car for more than 14-15k after everything is all said and done. You sure you want to go that route?

Have you considered maybe just buying a 6MT Type S? You could likely find one with the aspec kit for 15-16k, and the car will be 3-4 years newer.

dap0901

Yea, I did a search on Auto-Trader only found one Type s for $17k within 500 miles of me.

My car is paid off and well maintained. I have my own Mechanic who works on my TL so I want to keep it as a project car. My next car will cost more than I can afford right now so I would rather make my TL all that I can for now.

LOL...yes no Type S-Type badge...but I heard it adds like 30HP to Base TL.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

And yet others have shown solid dyno gains with a 4" intake after being fully bolted with a 3.7 manifold and throttle body.

dap0901

I am actually looking at using the LED PIAA bulbs in the stock fog light housing.

here is a link to piaa

PIAA | 9006 (HB4) Performance LED Fog Bulb Yellow 2800k Twin Pack #17501 - 9006

foxriderar77

It looks like you want more of the type s look, it may be more economical to buy a used type s, it already has the lights and will be faster stock.

Jpro

Good deflection

dap0901

So started with some aesthetics. I have LED Reverse and License plate lights. I also have the PIAA Performance LED Fog lights 2800k. Gives the TL the throw back TL G2 HID/yellow fog combo (or the G1 RL). Will take some pictures in the morning.

Next will probably be sway bars, Flash Pro, and dynos....

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

I'd get the J-pipe first over the flash pro. But it's your car.

dap0901

Sorry for the delay here are the pics.
Day



Night

PIAA LED Fog Lights 2800k Yellow





Day light picture





Daylight picture

dap0901

Additional pic zoomed out. I can't get really good night pictures but the TL looks throwback JDM at night. Love them.




zoomed out

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

they look great

and wow they're crazy expensive

dap0901

Better night shots...also used the 3M Headlight cleaner...my headlights look like brand new...

ericcdong

170k miles or kilometres? just curious?

dap0901

Sorry 170k Miles.

Chad05TL

OP: I would avoid modding any electronics like navi or "in-cabin" items. Including bulbs, unless you go with OEM bulbs. The electronics on these cars are finely tuned and resistance wise, they are somewhat "balanced". If you add or subtract or modify, you may blow fuses and short circuit some things.. or pop the navi bulbs and/or screen. Its very sensitive.

dap0901

Hey Guys,

I quit modding...just couldn't wrap my arms around it.

@TacoBello was right...if you want a better TL you have to invest in one.


So I did... just purchased this.

Cars for Sale: 2008 Acura TL Type-S in Grand Rapids, MI 49503: Sedan Details - 409953152 - Autotrader

Separate post with details are forthcoming. Thank you all.

And I will continue to mod both TLs...

Majofo

Good grab OP, treat her right!

dap0901

Hello all, as you may know my TLS was Totaled a couple of weeks ago. So I wanted to get modding to get the loss out of my system. So I will be updating this thread with my Mod updates. Thanks and get ready for the ride and transformation.

danarrey562

Before you do any performance mods such as intake and exhaust I would recommend modifying the chassis and dialing your handling first. Something like some Michelin Pilot super sport tires or Bridgestone Potenza pole positions would be an excellent Tire which will already improve your braking and turning performance. Then I would say upgrade your brakes. And then get yourself some shocks and springs such as koni yellow shocks and H&R sport Springs which is a very popular and successful combo. Along with that get yourself a camber kit and you should already notice some major handling improvements pair that with a sway bar kit and the car should do exactly what you want in terms of handling unless you are tracking then I would suggest coilovers. See how that goes and then do your exhaust and intake engine mods

dap0901

Great suggestion. I can tell the difference in handling from my TLS and TLP. THe TLP floats more and can't take turns at higher speeds or agressive angles, but it feels lighter than the TLS and seems to breathe just a little better in the upper RPMs, but the TLS was just more spirited. Anywho....I will have some updates soon. Trying to wait for hurricane Irma to go about her way and for my insurance check to get in...

Thanks for the post.