1 bottle is enough.. pour about 1/4 can in the motor, 1/4 like what that guy did in the youtube. And the rest in the gas tank..

you should pour a little in before your oil change, then the rest after.

 

what brand should i get?

 

seafoam is seafoam brand...google it bro

 

you guys are posting too much about things you could search on these forums or find in the 3g garage!!

 

yea mods close thread we are done!!

 

Does anyone recognize any of the retailers listed on that rebate? Maybe I need to get out a little more.....

 

Dont bother getting seafoam. There is no need for it unless for whatever reason your motor is clogged up with carbon. Just do the oil as recommended and be done with it.

 

i actually never heard of them lol!! they did that on purpose theyre prrob 1 of each in the middle of nowhere like "hills have eyes nowhere"

 

depends on how hard you run the car...
i change regularly at around 30% via mid...

 

I use Amsoil grade 4+ I think 0w-20, reset mid once and it cycles for a about 8-10K. Crazy, but if I changed at MID's suggestion I would be waisting my money.
PS My TL is commuter ride, no racing.

 

Do a search on this, there are many threads on oil on here.

I use Mobil1 oik abd filter and change it every 9k miles. My MID tells me around 6.5k miles. I also get an oil analysis done at every oil change and they say I can even run it longer - it looks good! I am from Germany, so I am used to longer oil changes (15k). Follow your MID and no worries mate.

Doing it every 3k is total overkill with today's oils.

Good luck and don't forget to get the crush washers and use a torque wrench.

 

how will the mid tell if u need a change. it actually can tell how thick it gets?

 

is there someway to tighten the plug without using a torque wrench? please help

 

Why does everyone insist the engine needs to have a cleaner run through it? This is especially true if you follow the maintenence schedule with a quality oil. A look under the valvecover of mine at 75,000 miles looks brand new.

A high quality oil will also keep the intake tract cleaner due to less voltility. There won't be as much "vapor" getting through the PCV and the stuff that does is less likely to form deposits.

A high quality top tier gas will have all the necessary additives to keep the intake ports and valves clean and also reduce carbon deposits on the pistons. Premium usually has 2-5 times the amount of additives With the new Shell nitrogen additives, it's rumored to really keep the intake tract clean because it helps some of the additives survive combustion and get recycled through the PCV. This gas was actually designed for the unbelievably deposit prone direct injection engines.

In other words, you're wasting money doing these cleanings of the oil and intake tracts if you're using quality oil and gasoline and the engine is under 300,000 miles.

I'm not sure if Seafoam is solvent based, I suspect it is and I recommend against using any solvent based cleaner. It can destroy the oil film on parts and thin the oil. If it is done, it should be for a short time with the engine idling, no load.

 

that doesnt solve my tighten the drainplug question lol but ok ill take that im going with the flow

 

I hate mis-information, had to clear that up first.

If you don't have a torque wrench, that best way I have found to get the right torque without overtorquing it is to take a 3/8 drive ratchet and hold it at the socket end and tighten with one hand so that it's snug. This way, unless you're insanely strong you won't be able to strip it.

I've always reused the original washer but if you use a new washer there's less chance of it stripping or coming loose if undertorqued.

 

No. It has no idea what type of oil is in there. It has no "oil sensors". It's calibrated for dino oil. The calculations are based on many factors such as number of cold starts (warm up cycles), total engine revolutions (not mileage, this takes into account idle time), Ambient air temps, driving style, run time between the cold start and shutdown, and more.

Mine will take me out to 11,000 for mostly freeway driving and as little as 4,000 in the winter time driving it just a couple miles to work every day. Being old school even with the top of the line "true" synthetic (unlike Mobil One) I change at 4,500 usually just due to contaminate load. Totally unnecessary but it makes me sleep better at night.

On a side note, anyone see that Mobil One failed the Seq. IVA wear test? This is not good at all as many cheap dino oils will pass this standard test. The jury is still out on whether it was only the 5w-30 or all of it.

 

Certainly you can tighten it by hand, but a torque wrench is always best. Remember, there are two different metals involved and one is softer than the other. Buy a torque wrench and torque to 29 flt/lbs (or 360 in/lbs) with a new washer to be safe.

 

dont mean to hijack this thread but what is the difference between M110 and M104 oil filter? can you also use either??? ty

 

They both fit. I believe the book calls for M110. I once ran the M104 by mistake (it was right next to the M110 and I grabbed it by mistake) and it was fine. I didn't realize my error until 7500 miles later at my next oil change. I think some folks on this board actually run the M104 because it's larger (I think).

 

what's a true synthetic that you recommend?

 

Also as a tip you may want to use a strong 1 gallon ziplock back to catch the oil filter and oil that may drain from removing it. Helps to keep it less messy. The oil change is easy, have fun!

 

awsome i cant wait till i change my oil lol i got so much AND i have a long ways to go until i can change it

 

Holy crap!! I looked up the results of the test on Google and Mobil 1 not only failed the wear test, they failed miserably. No more Mobil 1 for me even if is is only $22 for 5 quarts.

 

didnt he say that they are not certain which grade of mobil 1 that failed ? 5w 30 so on

 

Don't forget to start the car after the o/c, turn it off than check level (so you get oil into the filter).

 

If you do a little research you will find that Amsoil does better on all of the wear tests than any other oil period! They also have a guarantee. Does Mobil or anyone else have that? It will cost you less money and you have guarenteed protection for your car. What could be better than that?
I have used it long before I got my TL and I will use it long after this TL is gone. Nothing but the best for my cars!

 

I used Eneos 0W-20 oil. Good stuff...

 

At what point is the difference in price worth it, though? At some point, you're going to have spent enough money to pay for any repairs this 'deficient' oil caused. Motors failing due to other synthetic oils are few and far between.

 

"You are correct, it is a little larger, in diameter, not length;
I use the M104.

 

i was going to switch from mobil 1 synthetic to royal purple because it's been said that mobil 1 synthetic isnt a true synthetic anymore? it's called something like extended oil now

 

Somebody needs to send a letter to Mythbusters: Amsoil vs Royal Purple. or anything else like Elf and etc