SpiderX1016

Dang, where do you live? I have like 5 around me lol.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Phoenix.

I hate cars

I lived in Mesa for a year. Surprisingly I never searched for an autoparts store the whole time.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

We have Kragen/Checker/O'Reilly depending on what they were prior to being bought. We have Pep Boys, Autozone & Carquest. I looked on their sites, none show GC.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Found it by searching Syntec European formula!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=551009

SpiderX1016

You know, I never thought of actually searching it on there site LOL.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Now my question is 10.xx for Redline (plus 10-15 for shipping) or 7.xx for Syntec? I have no problem spending the $ if it is warranted.

I hate cars

It's like I said earlier in this thread it's really up to you if you think it's warranted.

GC has a few pluses over some of the competition. It's a full grpIV synthetic. It uses very few VIIs so it's nearly a straight 30wt yet makes the 0w-30 qualification (this is a good thing). It has a high HTHS of 3.5 I believe and it's available on the shelves locally.

Redline is a grp V ester so it has a natural cleaning ability without as many detergents. Also due to the ester base it has a naturally high viscosity index. Redline's 5w-30 is a straight 30 with no VIIs added but due to the great base oil it makes the 5w-30 spec. It has an amazing (for a 5w-30) HTHS of 3.8. It has high ZDDP levels which lower valvetrain and piston ring/cylinder wear. It has lots of moly which is a friction modifier/reducer and also protects moving parts. Nothing will take the heat like an ester base oil. And again, it does not produce piston ring land deposits which no other oil, synthetic or not has ever done (that I've personally seen).

Both are great oils, both will take you well into the 200,000+ mile range. I believe Redline will have a slight advantage in wear and protection from "screwups". It will tolerate extreme heat better so if you ever go with a turbo or overheat the engine, it's chances of surviving are increased. If you track the car, you don't need to change it out after every outing.

Living in Phoenix either will work, you don't need a 0w-30 but it's a good year round oil. When I lived there I came close to installing a 40wt due to summer temps.

If you go with a lesser oil like Mobil One I would suggest nothing less than the 10w-30 in that climate.

I know I've probably confused you more than anything. Let me know if I can help some more. I just got a new computer so I'm having fun right now. It's nice to have instant loading, even acurazine used to take about 10 seconds for a page to load.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, I really appreciate it, that is exactly what I needed to know. I have been running 4500-5k intervals & have three changes (and 2k+) left on the RP that is in there now so I am not in need of oil today but I always like to be ready for the next thing I am doing.

I'll buy the Redline next time I buy.

Thanks again!

S PAW 1

This is an EXCELLENT point, and I would like to re-ask it if I may.
Does anyone have much experience with using extended intervals with these high tech oils?
AMSOIL promotes 35,000 mile intervals when using SSO and Absolute filters!

We believe AMSOIL on most every other aspect in their literature, should we put faith in this one?

I mean, if it's true...we are all wasting one hell of alot of money by not using the extended intervals.

Izzy-Type-S

iTrader: (1)

I just did Mobil 1 full synthetic based on everyones recommendations for the first time...I'm at about 45k miles.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

I live in the desert. The only area my Blackstone tests have been abnormal is silica (go figure)

I do not care if I am wasting 300.00 a year on oil, I have the peace of mind my engine is safe and protected. I do 4500-5000 mile intervals and am fine doing it.

I hate cars

What kind of air filter are you using?

I hate cars

No trouble at all. It's good to have different opinions.

I'm guilty as you say of running a conventional OCI on a synthetic oil. I believe Redline specs an 18,000 mile interval for this oil.

My reasoning is that you have the contaminate load which has nowhere to go, it just sits in the sump and gets circulated. The oil will keep it in suspension but it's still being circulated. So while the oil has plenty of life left, it's "dirty".

I do enjoy seeing others do extended OCIs but I can't bring myself to do it at least not with the TL.

I know I'm very conservative. I've watched my friend not change the conventional oil in his Mustang for over 80,000 miles. He just added oil when it was so low that it would start making noises. He drove the heck out of it and traded it in still running at 120,000 miles. But if I tried that, I would have massive engine failure if I went a mile over 5,000 with my luck.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Currently I have a K&N on my P2R CAI. It happened with the OEM filter as well. We have pumice looking super fine sand in the air, I see it when I empty the vacuum canister.

I hate cars

That sucks. We have a fine sand around here too. That's why I only run the 3 stage factory filter. If you ever replace the K&N, Amsoil makes a cone filter that flows about as good but filters better than a paper filter. No oil reqired and it's washable.

94eg!

I hate cars:

How can I make it financially break even to run the redline oil and rp filters in my cars? I own 4 cars that I run the cheapest walmart synthetic (~$23/5qt) and M1 filters (~$13). I like to change oil between 6 months and 1 year depending on mileage.

- 89 CRX gets 210k ~4000 miles a year (M1 High Mileage)
- 94 Civic w/ Type R motor unknown mileage ~4000 miles a year
- 05 TL 6spd 52k miles ~8000 miles a year (follow MID for OCI)
- 03 Element AWD 5spd 85k miles ~8000 miles a year (change every 6 months)

So if I switch all cars to 5w20 or 5w30 redline and RP filters, would I be able to make it cost less by extending the change intervals further? Is there any way to justify the jump from $36 an oil change to $65 (plus shipping of oil)?

BradE

I’m not sure I could call Mobil 1 “lesser” oil. It’s no worse than most of the synthetics on the market. The biggest advantage it has would be vast availability, and price. You can get a 5 quart jug of M1 for around $22. For an oil in that price bracket, nothing wrong with it, IMO.

What pisses me off the most is the fact that most major oil companies have diluted the meaning of the word synthetic. Nearly every major brand of “synthetic” oil is just Group III. Its marketing bullshit designed to trick people into buying something, then delivering a product based on semantics. Most group III oils have some synthetic characteristics, but the reality is they are nothing but highly refined petroleum basestock.

On top of that, a lot of them are charging high prices (close to group IV PAO prices) for a product that is “synthetic” in name only.

Just because you throw a kit car body on your Ponticrap Fiero doesn't make it a Ferrari, and just because you put a label that says "synthetic" on a group III oil doesn't mean it's synthetic.

My 2 cents.

I hate cars

I see many people extending the OCI out to 15,000 easily on Amsoil, Redline, and sometimes Mobil One. Your change interval is very conservative already, I don't think it would hurt a thing to double it and wait a year between changes, but I can't recommend something I'm too afraid to do lol.

Over at bitog I was made fun of for changing at 5,000 miles. It seems like 7,500-10,000 is just the starting point for synthetic users.

That M1 high mileage is good stuff though, one of the better M1 products. It sounds like you're doing something right with 210,000 miles.

I hate cars

That's really my whole problem with them. Most Mobil One products are great grp III oils. I just hate the "fully synthetic" label which misleads people.

However, their 0w-40 is a full grpIV with a little grp V and the High Mileage and some EP is mostly grp IV with some grp III. In fact, the M1 0w-40 almost went in my TL a year or so ago. Very, very good oil. There's a guy in Canada running it in his 5.4L Expedition that spec'd 5w-20 and he's had very good things to say.

Oh, and I had a friend with a Ferrari bodykit on his Fiero back in the late '90s that really tried to pass it off as a Ferrari. The bodykit was aweful, it had the 2.8L V6 with exhaust and he even tried to sell it as a Ferrari.

But this was the same guy that put AMG emblems on his stock CL500, GT3 emblems on his 944 turbo, M3 emblems on his 328i and so on.

BradE

Most of the HM and EP oils are pretty good, but then you run into the price problem. I have a hard time finding either in 5 quart jugs in my area. The per quart price at Walmart is $7. If you have to buy at an auto parts store, they run $8-11 per quart. If you are paying that, you are in Amsoil or Redline territory.

WRXtranceformed

It's been a LONG time now, but IIRC the first few oil changes at 100 miles and 300 miles were just some off the shelf junk dino oil to get the motor broken in and the metal shavings cleaned out. After that it was Motul 15w50 and then I believe I switched to Amsoil 20w50. I ran M1 for just one oil change and quickly drained it out about 1000 miles later because it was just burning up way too fast.

As far as M1 damaging Suby engines I'm not sure, I don't remember specifically hearing anything about that when I was active in the community, but it could very well have been an issue.

fsttyms1

See post 32.

94eg!

So then let me ask this. Is there any downsides to running an HM oil in cars that aren't experiencing any leakage issues (like my Civic, TL and Element)? The thing that worries me is that the additives cause your seals to swell a little. Would you be stuck running HM from then on? What would happen if you switched back to regular oil?

I ask because our local walmarts carry M1-HM for the same price as regular M1. I also noticed they just released a 5w30. If it's really as good as you guys say and there are no issues, I might think about using it in all my cars...

winkyyy

thanks for all the information and input. especially from i hate cars. im still deciding one which brand oil i should use. cause i hate cars made a really good point on the way they test the oils. if im feelin cheap ill just go with mobil 1 and if i got some extra money ill give RP, redline, amsoil, etc a try.

SpiderX1016

You will be fine with Mobil 1.