Is there a minimal thickness requirement when it comes to resurfacing the rotors (brembo 6mt) on the front of the vehicle? I've heard it needs to be at least 25mm. Just looking for more insight from someone who knows for sure. Thanks.

 

Brembo
Standard 24.9-25.1 mm
Max refinishing limit 23.0 mm

Non Brembo
Standard 27.9-28.1 mm
Max refinishing limit 26.0 mm

Not much material to play with. Max cut would be 2 mm (.08"), or 1 mm (.04") each side.

Most shops will take more than the allowable limit off and think nothing of it as I've not seen any that will mic the rotor.
Better off just buying new rotors.

 

I assumed that a machine shop would only mill around .005"

Thanks for the info.

 

Any rotor recommendation for the 6MT Brembos?

 

StopTech or Racing Brake.

 

You can get 2 resurfacings from these rotors if you get it done right, like at the stealer, where they'll cut the rotors while they're still mounted on the hub. But, keep in mind...these rotors warp very easily.

 

They don't warp, they have pad build up deposited on the hot rotor that causes the high and low spots.
In fact our '08 knock around car with 72k miles was pulsating badly when stopping, replaced the pads and after a period of time, no vibration. Now at 105k and smooth as silk.

They should only take off what is needed and still be above the minimum, but the shops I've been involved with won't even mic the rotor to see if its been turned before, just throw it on the lathe, cut, then collect the money.

Mic them yourself, maybe 6-8 times around the rotor then have them cut and check again to be sure.

 

That's the RIGHT way to do it because the new rotor surface will be perfectly perpendicular to the vehicle's wheel hub & spindle.
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I try to keep my vehicle out of the hands of someone else as much as possible. I was hoping to take the rotors off the car and to the machine shop myself.

 

 

Turbonut,

Why were the pads replaced instead of getting the buildup off the rotors ?

 

I believe the new pads would scrap off the buildup from the rotors.

 

why resurface....IMO its just waste of money....

 

^ I agree. I'm going to give it a shot though and see what happens. I'm purchasing the StopTech rotors when I find a decent price on them.

 

I agree with you there, my rotor are warp but I still drive it until the pad need to be replace then I will replace everything at once. Resurface the rotor only solve the problem temporary and soon or later the vibration will come back, its a waste of time and money.

 

Had new rotors in the garage, but was in a hurry to do the job as the pads were in need of replacement and wanted to do away with that low pad metal sensor screeching noise, but as the rotors were in great condition with no surface imperfections, just replaced the pads and would do the rotors at a later date. After a period of time the pulsating got less and less noticeable until it was gone completely. This was a first for me, as when I usually replace the pads, if there is a rotor related problem, I'll just install new rotors, or have them cut depending on the situation and rotor thickness.
This was done Feb. 2011 at 72K miles and the car now has 105K miles and still on OE rotors and no pulsating.

Before people start throwing pads on rotors that are out of tolerance, got to believe this was a very unusual situation and purely coincidental with the intallation of the Raybestos pads. Must say, I have never tried this before, but maybe will again in the future with another "test" vehicle if the rotors are in good condition.

This was just an example to show that the rotors have an uneven surface buildup of pad material rather than as most believe, warped rotors.

 

You can get the same rotor without the slots in it for a lot less money. It's called Centric "High Carbon Alloy" rotor. It has the better chemistry of the Powerslot rotors and cost almost half at $55 each. The part number for the high-carbon alloy is 125.40062 ("premium" rotor is 120.40062).

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1...=1443&bih=1015

And here is some literature on the High Carbon alloy (replaces the older "Power Alloy"): http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...266&Itemid=246

 

Given the following situation, what should one do ?

Say TL has symptoms of "warped rotors" and the rotors have not been cut before:

Pay $199.99 for new OEM pads and rotor surfacing ?
Pay $419.99 for new OEM pads and new OEM rotors ?

 

^^^buy new pads and rotor because resurface rotor only solve the problem temporary and soon or later that rotor will warp again this time you will have to paying twice the original cost.

 

eff both those options and buy Stoptech pads & Centric High Carbon rotors for $170 and put them in yourself. lol But if you can't do it yourself, pay someone else the $100 to do it for you. Lots of shops let you bring in your own parts.

 

I understand that Carbon alloy are harder than regular alloy because the carbon atom that got jam between the alloy molecule, but my question is how much higher temp it will resist warping?

 

Totally agree.

 

I am fine with a temporary fix to be honest. I just need it to be smooth as silk for my trip to deals gap next week (the vibration is so very slight and I am being very over-anal about it).

Going to get them resurfaced on saturday morning, will glaze the pads so they are flat as well and put it all back together. Even when I throw new rotors on it, I'll probably keep using these pads if they still have life in them. They are friction performance pads.. I was a bit skeptical at first, and they dust a lot but they bite HARD when they're hot and they last longer than the bremblos.

 

Got the rotors resurfaced this morning. They took off .007 and the brakes are as smooth as silk!! Took some 100 grit sandpaper and glazed the pads a bit to ensure further success.

I plan on purchasing the friction performance pads again to pair with my stoptech rotors the next go-round.

 

You're not reading what turbonut and others have posted. It's very rare to actually warp a rotor. 90% of the time it's just pad deposits on the face of the rotor causing the warped rotor feel.

If you continually have this problem, switch to a more aggressive pad that's not going to leave uneven deposits on the rotor.

I wouldn't even consider OEM for rotors or pads. Go aftermarket with some aggressive street pads and you'll likely never have a "warped" rotor again.

Stoptech suggests you can switch to a race pad that will have high abrasive friction since it will never get into it's operating temp on the street and it will clean the rotor surface. If you don't have the time for that, replace the rotors.

 

IHC, what pads would you recommend for the stoptech rotors?

 

I've only got 3 weeks on them but so far I absolutely love the Stoptech street pads. They don't have a super aggressive initial bite like many do but they're consistent from cold to hot and with pedal pressure. Good modulation, they feel a lot like stock pads except they won't fade as easily. It's hard to comment on dusting. After 3 weeks and no car washes my rims are getting a little brake dust. But this was after bedding them in and doing more than 10 60-0 stops to measure stopping distances. If you wash your car at least every 3 weeks, dusting shouldn't be an issue.

It really comes down to personal preference. If you want a good consistent pad with stock like feel and good fade resistance, stoptech is the way to go. If you want a pad with aggressive initial bite like many people do, these probably aren't the ones for you. Nothing wrong with either. I had to get used to them at first because the Rotoras I had been using had a much more aggressive bite. FWIW, ABS seems to work a little better with the less aggressive setups.

 

This is because Stoptech pads have the same friction rating of FF found on the OEM Brembo & non-Brembo pads.