You're a psychic time traveler also? That's the only way you could claim to know that. I know you said you were in the "communications" field, but damn, that's impressive

And for anyone watching, go watch the ericthecarguy.com video on J-series valve adjustment. That TL was running Mobil 1 and his comment was that it didn't look like it had run 10 miles less 100K.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=OnyqVg3nWRk

 

Wait, you said yours was as clean as mine without seeing it and somehow that's acceptable, wow. Here you go trying to trash each one of my threads, you're like the little kid saying "look at me".

The car guy has a few mistakes. The TL does not have a MAF sensor. He states he does not know the mileage of the car, some people bring them in at 60k for the timing belt. He states that someone has been in the engine before so you have no idea if the heads are even original, the intake had been off before. I can't find anywhere that he states the car was run on Mobil One or even the interval. Where does it show this is a Mobil One car?

My car has 113,000 miles, I'm the original owner and no one has ever been inside the engine. I believe that's better than an unknown on a video by some guy on the internet. I guess it's also acceptable to drive someone's car with your dirty work gloves on as long as you saw it on the internet. The rear valve cover was somewhat close to mine and it should be, that's the fresh air side but the front valve cover is not even close to as clean as mine. Maybe the rear head was replaced lol.

Now that we got that out of the way, show me how Mobil One outperforms any other oil. Give me a single fact, even a theory with some technical basis would do. Show me how Mobil One outperforms a good dino..... You can't because it is a good dino and performance is the same, only the price is different.

Once again, show me how you know yours has little wear. I have a way to tell, let's see what you have.

You weren't hiding any info, were you? Here's your first valve adjustment:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...18&postcount=1

Every single valve needed to be adjusted. Guess what that is? It's wear lol. What was the title of your thread? "Valves still noisy after adjustment" lol. You didn't do it right! Yet you also state that you did it because it was overdue, not because it was excessively loud or anything.... well which is it?

Mine is quiet as can be, I mean perfectly quiet, what happened to yours since you seem to know everything? My valves aren't ticking, why are yours?

 

Nope, unlike you, I didn't make that claim. Go back and reread what I typed...

I'll give you a hint (sound familiar? bwahahaha). Think: "Forums"....

Ahh, what? Hmmm, where did I say that? There you go again...

No way of knowing for sure if it's wear or just like you claimed, being mis-set at the factory. Oh wait, I'm sure in your case it was mis-set and in my case and all the other cases it was wear. Bwahahahaha.

The notorious J series "noise" is indeed not loud or excessive, nor is it always present. My point being that I confirmed that the notorious J-series "noise" isn't due to a misadjusted valve train and that's what the thread was about. But of course, you'd have to read the whole thread, not just selected snippets from one post. Nice try

For everyone, here's the whole thread, not just selected snippets from one post:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8#post12624318

And yes, as much as you'd like to think otherwise, everything was done perfectly. But then you're psychic, you should have already known that. Looks like your psychic powers aren't all they're cracked up to be. That's a shame.

 

 

It wasn't done perfect or you would have no noise. I have no noise, maybe you should try again. The only thing you confirmed is you can't do a proper valve adjustment.

I guess my car just happened to have all but two perfect by chance and yours just happened to have all of them mis adjusted from the factory. That sounds likely.

There is a way to know if it is wear or not. Were all of your exhaust tight and intakes loose? That's what I thought. The reason I said my two exhaust valves were misadjusted from the factory is the car has always had a weird noise from the exhaust that went away when I adjusted the valves. Common sense tells me it was probably a factory defect. This was stated already, you chose to ignore it.

Nice copout on the Mobil One. You're encouraging people to use an oil with n o technical knowledge of the oil based on your low standard of what clean is even though every valve was out of spec, wow. You paid $10/qt for a Dino oil that only did one portion of its job and failed the most important function. At least you got out of any technical discussion and instead rely on assumptions.

 

Remember this post? You said yours was "every bit as clean running just M1 for 106k miles". When I called you on it you backtracked and said "as clean as you describe". Man up and take responsibility instead of bitching out.

 

Bwahahaha. Whatever makes you feel good, big fella.

I guess you must be one of the rare J-series owners that doesn't have the notorious J-series "noise". Good for you.

The majority of J-series owners (except you of course) will readily confirm and acknowledge what I'm talking about. It has nothing to do with a mis-adjusted valve train. As many suspect, it may indeed be the injectors.... Again, read my whole thread and the various discussion/replies from other TL/J-series owners.


OK, since you apparently don't want to search, here's Eric's reply and the direct link to the question of if that TL was running Mobil 1:

"Yes he runs Mobile1 however it's not required to get an engine to look this good. From what I've seen as long as you change your oil (it can be regular oil) on a regular basis say every 3-5K that your engine will look like this in 100K."

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/...t-videos#34060

Your mis-representations just never stop, do they? It's a syn blend, and I never (nor do most people) paid more than $5 quart...


Nope, because you weren't able to figure it out, I merely clarified what should have already been obvious. Your description is all I or any of us have to go on and yes, based on that, my engine was just as clean...

Oh, and when do we get to see your pictures???

 

Had the timing belt replaced, along with other necessary parts, at the 92,000 mile mark because the car was one month away from being eight years old. The plugs were pristine, and they were the ones that left the factory in the engine. The timing belt also looked nearly new. But with those, you just don't know what the internals look like unless you cut into them.

What I can see through the oil filler opening looks VERY and what one would expect.

 

 

IHC and others: Slightly off topic question...
I just purchased an '05 base TL w/105k. Sort of a time pressure, impulse buy so I didn't check it throughout like I normally would've. Can't tell how well it was maintained.

Carfax says the timing belt and water pump were replaced around 100k.

The car idles rough and I get the vibration, especially at 70+ speeds. So far, I've changed the air filters and put in new spark plugs after a can of Seafoam in the gas tank. The new plugs seemed to increase the mpg and reduce the rough idle and drive, but not completely.

It's got Michelins on stock 17" wheels. At first the car shook hard when driving, more so at higher speeds. So I swapped the front wheels to the back and that helped tremendously. The had the rears balanced (not road force) and they said they were only slightly off. Not sure if the balance would show if a rim is bent?

The (automatic) trans shifting feels decent but not great. I've noticed a little hesitation in the downshift while braking between (I think) the 3rd to 2nd gears. Like if you were to press the brake harder for just a second. You feel your body just slightly pull forward.

Coming next is replacing the 3 & 4 trans pressure switches (just ordered) and doing a 3x3
trans fluid swap. I'm hoping that fixes that hesitation.

Then in the spring when it's warmer, I'll do the lower control arm bushings (split) and a full balance/alignment. I'll read up on the valve adjustments and hopefully can do that myself. At least check them.

Anything else I should be doing maintenance-wise right now? Any advice on the vibration/rough idle? Check for bad motor mounts? I'm working out of my garage so no hoist.

Thanks!

 

First thing I would check is the mounts. Also make sure the vacuum line going to the mounts is hooked up. You can find it on the mount and just follow it up to the intake manifold.

Does it have more vibration in either reverse or drive or is it about the same in either? If it has significantly less vibration in one, it's probably the mounts. You can have someone stand there with the hood open and look at the engine as you powerbrake it gently in drive and in reverse, looking for excessive movement.

The forward jerk when braking is just the car downshifting. It has "grade logic" which is designed to keep the car at a steady speed when going downhill but I suspect the real reason for this feature is the fuel injectors are shut off when it downshifts and your foot is off the gas. In other words if the rpms are above about 800-1,000rpm and your foot is off the gas, you're using zero fuel. If it's downshifting hard, replacing the switches will help a lot. They will also slightly help with the hesitation going from park to drive. Run a good Dex III fluid like Redline D4, Amsoil "ATF", Mobil, etc. Both the upshifts and downshifts will be quicker and at the same time not as noticeable.

Getting into the engine to do the valve adjustment is easy. Having a good feel for the adjustment, knowing the right amount of drag the feeler guage should have on it when adjusting comes with practice and isn't always easy as nfnsquared learned the hard way. I agree that it might not be a bad idea to go in there and check the valve lash. Too loose won't hurt anything, it will just make noise. Too tight can cause idle problems and eventually burn a valve. Exhaust valves are usually the ones getting too tight. If you find some that are way too tight, you can take it to a Honda dealer and have them adjusted. Valve lash does not affect performance much at all unless it's grossly off bad enough to cause a misfire which prety much never happens. It can cause a rough idle but I would probably look at the valve lash last. You can hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and idle vacuum will give an indication as to what kind of shape the engine is in, including the valves. You can also hook a scanner up to it and read off of the MAP sensor, same thing more or less.

 

What's funny about screwing up your valve adjustment old man? If you have excessive noise, you screwed up period. You broke a valvecover bolt by your own admission while installing your valvecover. How is that even possible? And you think you're qualified to adjust the valves, comment on wear and cleanliness, and to question me in any way when you can't even tighten a valvecover bolt? I'm surprised you were able to at your age, lol. You need to learn your place.

I'm sure I'm in the majority of TL owners with little to no valvetrain noise. There's no reason why they HAVE to be loud. There are a couple TL owners in my area, have them come by and take a listen.

If you can't tell the difference in injector noise and valvetrain noise you shouldn't be working on your own car... And you wonder why you screwed up your valve adjustment. Way too much confidence, no skill to back it up. Injector noise has the same timing as valvetrain noise but the sound is completely different. The Tl does not use some kind of special injector that makes more noise than any other injector. I'm sure the Tl's injectors are in use on other cars as well, made by one of the big manufacturers for Honda, I'm guessing Bosch, Denso, Siemens, or Keihen. Blaming your noise on injectors is a copout.


Ah, he knows now but he didn't in the video. I still didn't see a mileage on the car mentioned. You still didn't acknowledge that he said someone had been in the engine before which makes this null and void.


No misrepresentations here, that's all you. I just had to get a quart of 0w-40 to top off another car until I could get around to changing the oil. It's $10 at Autozone here.
If you look through this site at any thread I posted pictures, you'll see they're all gone. My host disappeared. You'll have your pictures soon enough and I can email them to anyone that wants them. It doesn't matter what the pictures look like, you've got your mind made up already.

I'm not used to liars so I guess it wasn't immediately obvious to me what you meant. Get real, you're backtracking. I'm still waiting for anything technical or meaningful from you besides trying to prove me wrong. If you could just realize you know nothing we could move on. Instead you focus on the price of Mobil One which no one cares about except for you and how clean you think your valvecovers are.

 

i too noticed some kind of thumping noise coming from the exhaust when i was bleeding the cooling system after I did my timing belt. I wonder if my exhaust valves need some minor adjustment.

in my case if i listened at the tailpipe it sounds like random "bumps" in the noise (hard to explain), or like small bursts of air. No backfiring/misfires though, car runs fine otherwise. I almost thought it had something to do with the air escaping from the cooling system but i figured it was improbable for that to be the cause.

 

Thanks so much for the info. I wouldn't know what's excessive as far as the motor mounts so I posted it on YouTube for those who might know.

https://www.youtube.com/my_videos_ed...id=xPlEQQPZoRQ

The rough idle is a lot better than it was. The old plugs were relatively clean but a bit worn. There was a larger gap than the new ones.
Little by little I'll get this mofo running smooth.

 

sub'd to read from home

 

I have been encouraged by you IHC to start reading and studying the WHITE PAPERS over at BIOG. I might have to sell off my Schaeffer's 9000 5W-30. I did my TB change about a year or year and half ago and skipped on the Valve adjustment due to NO noise in the valve train and everything ran great afterwards. I still have everything needed to do it just no need. I agree on knowing the "DRAG" on adjusting the valve lash, it is an experience thing, specially with solid cams I helped with all the time back in the day. I might just tear into my TL just to see my wear or lack of and cleanliness of overall valve train. My curiosity is definitely up. Thanks again IHC for your knowledge and sharing it with others, I know I appreciate it.

 

That's EXACTLY what mine sounded like and I'm pretty sure it was there from the beginning, since it was brand new or at least very early on. You're the first I've heard of with this sound. I'm very interested to know if it goes away after you do the valve adjustment. I've sort of got a theory but its just a guess as to why it happens. If a valve adjustment cures yours too that would be interesting. Usually there's a suck or a pop. This seems like its somewhere in between.

 

One other thing, my brakes feel like they have more vacuum assist. I noticed this right away but it's nearly impossible to gain enough vacuum from a valve adjustment to feel it in the brakes. Maybe those exhaust valves were really hurting me. I guess I'll never know since I didn't monitor vacuum beforehand and its too much of a stretch to chalk better brakes up to two tight exhaust valves.

 

These air bumps... do they sound/feel like a pulse noise almost? With mine, it's light but sounds like the opening drum roll from "Wipeout". I think that's where the rough idle feel is coming from.
Same thing, no backfires or misfires, just a pulsing effect. Wonder if that's the exhaust valves?

 

Thats another great way of describing it. If I had known others had this noise I might not have investigated. I REALLY wish one of you guys would do a valve adjustment and see if it goes away.

 

i'm only at 73k so it'll be another year or two until I "need" one

GoodsTL, how many miles on your TL?

 

Let me know if you need any help when you decide to do it. I know it's a long way off but it would be interesting to know if the same ones are tight.

 

I hate cars

quick question because I got lost in the thread - so what oil were you using for the engine? Royal Purple?

thanks much.

 

Redline 5w-30 for most of its life at roughly 5k intervals and a Royal Purple filter.

 

IHC...as usual, great thread....very informative....

I am at 167K miles and recently I started hearing some ticking (primarily from the rear heads)....I will be doing a valve adjustment very soon....

I recently replaced my intake manifold and the old ones EGR was nasty !!! when i switched the manifold, I also put a EGR block off plate and I have been pretty happy since...until you mentioned about detonation....can you please elaborate on that?

 

I've got 105k. Purchased the car about a month ago.

 

The EGR valve allows a small amount of exhaust gases to be introduced into the intake system and as a result, reduces the combustion temperature along with a reduction in the pollutant nitrogen oxide. Without the EGR valve, the combustion temp rises as does the NOX content and the possibility of detonation.

 

I've also removed my EGR and have noticed no adverse side effects. Tim also reported no side effects. I've been debating reinstalling it though since it didn't add any significant output and detonation isn't always noticeable.

 

Thanks Turbonut....I understand about the NOx but how does it reduce the combustion temps? The exhaust gas temp is higher than intake temp and hence it rises overall temps and hence higher cylinder temps....is my theory right?

From what I understood one of the primary function of the EGR was to help the engine to warm up quicker....by circulating hot exhaust gas in cold intake air, it raises the cylinder temp and hence warms the engine up quicker....

I have not been monitoring knock but I do not see/feel any adverse effects....i would like to be CEL free as the EGR CELs are the only 2 CEL which am getting....

I know Paul made a little bypass which incorporated a filter to suck in colder air rather than hot exhaust air...hence keeping you CEL free, lower engine temps....not sure about NOx there as well....

Logislow, if interested, I can have Paul setup some kind of a GB for few of us

 

 

Accuse IHC of using Robitussin in his engine.. you're lucky to be alive.

 

Great thread IHC.

 

This weekend, I'm doing the AT pressure switches and I'll check out the intake manifold and EGR to see what's doing buildup-wise.
Question... Better to clean the EGR valve if dirty, or replace? I've seen repair kits where you drill out and install a steel tube but I'm not clear of the point of that? Is that just if the port is clogged? Also, do I need new manifold and/or EGR gaskets or better to reuse em?
Thanks fellas, I've learned a ton about this car already from this board.

 

^Here you can see the EGR passage before the valve; this is what burned coolant in the EGR passage looks like:

 

Exhaust gas is inert which is how it lowers combustion temps. It's like taking oxygen out of the air. Is sort of like the reasoning for using nitrous instead of pure oxygen; the nitrogen serves as a buffer, keeping the oxygen from torching a hole in the pistons. The problem with eliminating it is the ECU normally bumps timing to make up for the loss of power when EGR is activated. With it blocked you can run into pinging from this additional timing. If others have done it without noticing any obvious pinging I might try it.

 

On a side note I'm close to pulling the trigger on a meth kit, it could easily be setup to trigger at a very low rate when the EGR is (supposed to be) active.

 

My TL does this as well. It became much more noticeable with the mid muffler delete. At 134,000 miles I am overdue for a timing belt change. Since I had no valve noise I hadn't planned on doing a lash job. I guess I need to add this to my "to-do" list. I am possibly purchasing a 2nd TL in the next few days. It's an 04 with 255,000 miles on it. It does have valve noise that quiets down somewhat after warm up. The car is also due for its 2nd timing belt. I'll probably cut my J series teeth on that one if I get it.

 

Hey Wacker how ya doin. Im down to help with those TB changes just give a shout. Im thinking to do my valves since i have everything. My shop could hold 4 TLs if we need be. It would be interesting to see 2 possibly 3 TLs down and compare visuals and audibles before and after. Lets work this out

 

To I hate cars,

Since you know so much, I hate to even ask since there are so many threads but you mentioned that valves should be relatively quiet, not noisy.

The reason I ask is that I took my car to get the valves adjusted at my local Acura Dealer in Ventura, CA around 124xxx this past September 2012 rather than doing it around 105k so I was overdue. Well after I got them done, there was still a ticking noise from the back of the motor.

Well fast forward to about a week ago, I get an oil change at my uncles independent general mechanic shop(cheap to do oil changes). Well he and a service tech(Had worked 10years on hondas/acuras experience) tell me there is excessive ticking noise in the back where the valve cover is located.

They asked if I had gotten a valve job done, I'm at 130xxx now.
ME: I said yes about 3 months ago
Why?
THEM: Come here and told me to listen carefully and you will hear a constant ticking sound, those are your valves and they need readjusting.

ME: I told them, the local Acura dealer noticed that they were out of spec and adjusted all in Sept. so I needed them asap. The first
service advisor told me they would be fixed after valve adjustment, well apparently they were still kind of quiet after but still noticeable, but they told me thats a normal sound. So I went one driving.

THEM: take it back to them because they should NOT be any kind of sound at all from the valves.

Called immediately to ask if they can do anything, service advisor told me that we can readjust them, lets make an appt. at no cost to you.

Fast forward to today.

Made appointment,
Took dropped my car off after at 8am-4pm

I get there to drop off loaner, pick up my car. And all they did was listen to the valves just to tell me there was nothing wrong. I was furious, why would I make an appointment to just be told there was nothing wrong.

IF YOUR STILL FOLLOWING
Their 40+ years experience service tech tried to reassure me that nothing is wrong, and its normal to make a ticking sound, its the injectors. He said its either an injecter or PCV plate that is making the ticking sound ??

Care to share some light, are these engines suppose to make slight ticking sound? I fought them on it, and they will readjust them like they promised(no written document; my bad on my account).

Just to prove that my car is running perfectly fine, they even told me they compared it to a black 06 with 84k miles and that one was way louder than mine.

Sorry for the long post. I REALLY NEED YOUR EXPERTISE

 

ticking noise from the back is from the heads...its def valves....

am not sure how and even if Honda performed the service....when you initially picked the car up from Acura/Honda, was there ticking???

I am at 167K and never had a valve job done...never had the need to.....recently I started hearing light ticking and its coming from the back of the motor....as the weather warms up, I have a laundry list of items to do on my car.....