I know the DRLs, switchbacks and turn signals do, what about license plate, reverse lights, trunk and interior dome/map/mirror/door/center console and glove box lights?

Thx in advance

 

Only the turn signals require resistors. I didn't think that DRLs did but I could be mistaken

 

Forgot to say specifically LED DRLs with the relay harness for full 12 volts. I ordered the resistors along with it.

Looking to make sure I don't need any for the interior, reverse and license plate lights. Trunk too

 

none of the interior plus trunk lights need a resistor.

 

Ah gotcha. The interior, reverse, and trunk lights do NOT require resistors.

 

Awesome thx guys

 

DRLs do indeed need resistors in order to trick the computer into thinking there is a bulb, else the infamous DRL light will come on at your dash.

 

Should take a look at this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/g-109-diy-eliminate-led-bulb-induced-hyper-flashing-without-load-resistors-815219/

Much better than installing load resistors that waste energy as heat, they have to be heat-sinked to protect them.

That thread shows you how to change the sense on the circuit to prevent the hyperflashing without using those resistors, much easier than installing those resistors as well.

 

I started reading that thread earlier

Currently on page 13, and so far it's a mixed bag, some work, some have electrical gremlins....we'll see what happens from pages 13-end of thread (26 pages I think).

 

I never read the entire thread lol..

I've changed the shunt for a .12 ohm resistor on mine though, I went with a wire-wound 3W resistor.

I have LEDs in all 4 turn signals and no issues at all.

Makes me wonder if maybe some guys tried to do it using LEDs in just the front or just the rear signals or if they left load resistors installed as well. With this there shouldn't be any load resistors installed and should have LEDs in all 4 turn signals.

 

I definitely agree for the turn signals to replace the shunt in the relay. I've done that as well and it works perfectly! For the DRL's unfortunately, there is no way around using resistors. If you're not comfortable soldering, you can definitely send it to me and I can solder for you and send it back but I'm in SoCal.. :/

 

I can solder, thx for the offer though, much appreciated!

I just don't feel it's a solid solution for all, and seems to depend on which led bulbs are used, they don't all draw the same amount of current. I don't see what the big deal is on load resistors for the back either, since these lights aren't on all the time, only when the blinkers are on, so it's not wasting energy to heat full time. The switchbacks yeah they're on all the time. But ultimately the circuit is designed for a certain load, resistance wise, and according to that thread the shunt resistor only changes the sensing point for hyper flash, but we're still changing the load impedance, and with all sorts of different LEDs in all 4 corners, that might be why things don't work right for all. I still have the last 13 pages to read through, but I want things to work right, regardless of other loads in the car, blinkers, hazards, A/C, etc.

I did the interior last night with vleds 5k 6led bulbs, all except glove box and center console. Those along with license plate and reverse are going on this weekend when I have more time. Still in research more on headlights and tail lights but I have vleds switchbacks on hand already, just need to decide which way to go on resistors.