Hey all, just wanted to let you guys know I just finished installing an ATF cooler. I followed the DIY and bought the B&M 70264 model as suggested. A few things I like to point out. It's easier to remove the banjo on the the back of the transmission then remove that stubborn factory hose clamp. The other end has another clip, that connects to the filter and is easier once the other banjo bolt is removed.

The cooler heated up quick, it was cold to touch and within less than a minute, this got too hot to touch so I can only imagine what the temps are. On the box of the cooler it said in big letters that 90% of transmission failures are related to heat so I don't know how true that is but like I said, this thing got hot quick. I kind of regretted not getting a slightly larger one because I think it would be more beneficial and actually make more of a difference. I seriously doubt you can overcool your transmission. This thing is not that big. I am on the DW1 fluid and haven't had problems. I poured in a little less than 1/4 of a quart to make up for the cooler capacity.

Another thing that I did, which I should have made a diy but forgot was relocate the door lock horn chirp thing, the one with the smooth tone after you click the lock button on the key remote twice. It's usually hard to hear as your walking away but remember reading about someone relocating it to the front. So while the bumper was off I took off a few more of those annoying black clips and found that it was held by one 10mm bolt, took it off, put the bolt back so I wouldn't lose it and moved the horn to the front. I did this by clipping the wires and extending them with more wire (2 wires). There is a perfect place to mount it, right underneath the driverside headlight on the bumper support is a 10mm bolt, I just used pliers to unbend the little tab on the horn bracket and bolted it to the bumper support on the side. Now I can hear it loud and clear, not having to worry if I locked my car or not. I recommend everyone spend the money on the cooler as safe insurance as it's cheap. $70 for the cooler and 10ft. of 3/8ths hose (which is all used).

 

Awesome info, been thinking about installing one as living down in Miami its hot all year around and I put many miles on my car. Will take your tips!

 

I'm thinking about running two transmission coolers now hmmmm.

 

If you guys don't have a transmission cooler you should definitely get one. In my 2001 Accord my transmission failed at 32k miles, after it was replaced under warranty I installed a B&M cooler + magnafine filter. I did a 1x3 + magnafine filter every year and no problems from my transmission at 146k, I drove the car pretty hard, too.

 

^^^ That's great to hear! Which model did you use and how's your car holding up?

 

I can't remember which one it is, but it looked exactly like the one on the DIY floating around. My car was totaled earlier this year but it was 100% fine before that happened, I was using Honda Z1 fluid, too! I would have eventually changed it out to DW1 but never had the chance.

 

Ok folks, thinking 1 wasn't enough, I went back and installed another making it 2 total.

Here you can see that the B&M 70264 is not that big, in comparison to my hand.


Setting them in place so the lower grills can have airflow directed towards them.


Here's all the plumbing hooked up, piggy backing off the other.


And here is where I relocated my alarm chirp horn, right underneath the driverside headlight on a 10mm bolt at the end of the bumper support.



I started up the car and in matter of minutes both units were hot to touch. I'm going to add a mageline filter later as well. As for flow restriction concerns, I don't think there will be a problem as both untis heated up FAST. And the lines seem to be under pressure when lightly squeezed. This is in hopes to prolong my tranny as long as I can. I will also do a fluid change every other oil change and pressure switches once every year. Someone I know has a second gen TL and his tranny failed at 100k or so. He now has 275k (175k on tranny) while on the z1 fluid with no cooler. He tells me he just changes the fluid every 15k and has been fine for this long.

 

Ok folks, Urgent update. Everything is fine however I am worried about the hose clamps not standing up to the psi levels during hard driving. After research it seems there is a better option. The Tru-cool oil cooling units have nptf fittings on the end which allows AN fittings that will securely fasten to the cooler. Now I'm going to order those and sell these units. Just thought people should know.

 

The existing clamps should be fine for this application. Do not tighten them too much or you may crush the inlet piping. Tighten them snug and give it another 1/4-1/2 turn.

I'm not sure why you decided to go with 2 coolers---there is already an OEM cooler internal to the radiator. The one you added should be fine for a supplement.

As for your friend, I also had a 2G (2000) with a tranny failure at 98K (replaced under warranty). When I traded it for my 3G (2006), I was a bit paranoid about the transmission. I checked the fluid and it was horrible---brown with a heavy burn odor. I immediately did a 4X3 with Z1 and replaced the stock filter. I also changed the pressure switches at ~30K. I have since done 1 3X3 and 2 1X3s with D4 to remove the Z1. I added the cooler and Magnefine at ~75K. I'm now at 98K and checked the fluid yesterday---nice red color and no burn smell. I am due to replace my switches again (purchased on BM from another member) and will be doing that soon. I may also put in some of the Type-F to cut down on the friction modifiers in the fluid. My car shifts perfectly and I have no worries about it.

I guess my point is its the fluid that makes the biggest difference to our cars' transmission health. There is also evidence that the switches physically deteriorate over time and go out of spec. Heat is a secondary factor. While your install is clean, I question the need for it. I temper that by saying I don't know where you drive the car nor how you drive it. Mine is my DD with a 40 mile one way commute.

I say spend the money on quality fluid, install the Magnefine and you should be good to go!

 

Thanks. This is my preventative tranny destruction project. I have already did 2 pressure switch replacements along with a 3x3 of redline type f (noticed problems) then did a 3x3 with the new DW1 fluid. I DD my car as well and as for the oem cooler, my 05' doesn't have one that goes into the radiator, there is one on top of the tranny that is liquid cooled and serve as a heater but is not even barely enough to make a difference. The reason I have two coolers installed is because after seeing how hot just one gets I start to question if it's even worth it, the cooler doesn't hold much fluid, it's not that big and it heats up quickly, by the time the fluid returns through the engine bay and back to the transmission, I wonder if the money and effort spent is worth it, so I decided I'd get two coolers and have them piggy backed for twice the cooling. After searching again I don't know if I'll spend the time, money and effort to buy another two just with threaded fittings, I calculated the costs of AN fittings and braided hoses, it will cost too much to even notice a difference. I am really concerned with it leaking that's why I wanted a threaded inlet/outlet so I can use solid AN fittings. I don't know if the worm clamps are sufficient.

 

How hot were they after you drove down the highway for a prolonged amount of time? Idling they will provide some dissapation for heat, but fresh moving air will probably cool them down a considerable amount. Probably still hot to the touch, but I think transmissions are in the 245-280° F range under normal conditions.

If you were wanting to test your double piggy back theory, you could always plumb a mechanical temp gauge up and see what its showing. It may be more accurate than just going by touch. After all, at a certain point hot is hot to our human hands.

 

After highway driving both of them were hot but not too hot to touch. Within a minute or so temps starting rising by the feel of my hand. As for idling, that's when it gets the hottest it seems, too hot to touch, like a minute or two after starting the car. Since I'm so concerned about the clamps and the psi level I went and ordered a special tool called clamptite which I think everyone should look into.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAKaBVl_9o0

It seems great!

 

i think youre just over paranoid. lol

 

^^^ That sir is correct. I'm terrified of a $4500 bill if I can prevent it. I'm concerned with driving one day and the hose pops off of the little nipple and I don't notice it right away and keep driving until boom!

 

2 coolers is overkill and not needed. Depending on where you live, you dont want your trans temps to be too cold. As long as your tq converter is locking up then your fine.

I was monitoring temps in my car for a while and here is the info I put together. (taken from another post I made)

"These temps were taken in 55°-70° weather according to the MID on several different days

Starting trans temp were between 57°-70° (depending on the outside temp) and each reading was after a cold start of at least 8 hours

Cruising on the highway for 5 or 50 minutes and the temp is always between 154°-156°

Stop and go traffic on the highway and city was between 195°-200°. It takes about 15 minutes of traffic/idling to get up to those temps. I haven't seen anything higher then 202° and that was in 50 minutes in traffic

To reach a temp of 155° (which seems to be my normal temp on the highway) only takes about 3-4 minutes max

When reaching temps close to 200° followed by a straight drive on the highway, temps will drop down to 160° within 3-5 minutes

WOT in any gear raises temps no more then 6°-10°"

 

Thanks Libert! Now did you attach a gauge to the supply or return line for these numbers? Also do you know what the psi level is about?

 

where did u order the atf cooler from?

 

Fuel line hose clamps would probably work well on the tranny cooler lines.

 

supply side. No idea about the psi