Just did my timing belt today *good quality pics!*
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Just did my timing belt today *good quality pics!*
I just did my own timing belt change after 121k miles. I figured I was a good amount past the 105k already so it was about time. It was my first time so I followed the DIY here on the azine garage and also bought the ericthecarguy video showing the timing belt on the 6th gen accord J30. I am pretty mechanically inclined but it was well worth the $16 to have an extra piece of mind.
3 things I want to note:
1. there is the battery tie down that was referred to in the DIY but it took me forever just to find the threaded hole for it, and when I did, it wouldnt even thread in all the way, after like 60% threads in, it got too hard to turn, I resorted to using a 21mm socket to hold the hook but that only got me slightly farther. So that was like an hour wasted for me. I suggest not even bothering with it at all.
2. The grenade pin on the hydraulic tensioner gave me a lot of trouble. I think it's because I didn't pull it fast enough so only 1 side got stuck. I started using pliers to twist it out and here is the result:
So I ended up pulling until it broke off the hole. I'm sure it doesn't affect the operation of the tensioner whatsoever though.
3. When lining up the front and rear cam marks, sometimes the pulley will not want to spin a certain way, I realized that it's okay to use a wrench to turn the pulley and force it in position.
Here are some pics of the process:
The bolt was definitely on very tight, this was my setup at first, and when it didn't work I used the bottom end of the jack handle to get another extra 2' length. Don't use any weak tool here. I used a 19mm impact deep socket, and an impact extension, all 1/2" drive.
I even thought about using the starter method but I realized the 07+ auto start feature makes it kinda risky.
because I had to support the engine when removing the side engine mount, the jack was positioned right under the water pump, so my pan only caught like 10% of the coolant, and the rest spilled on the floor
Line up timing marks:
Total process took me about 8 hours, not bad for my first time. If I were to do it again I can probably do it in about 6 hours.
3 things I want to note:
1. there is the battery tie down that was referred to in the DIY but it took me forever just to find the threaded hole for it, and when I did, it wouldnt even thread in all the way, after like 60% threads in, it got too hard to turn, I resorted to using a 21mm socket to hold the hook but that only got me slightly farther. So that was like an hour wasted for me. I suggest not even bothering with it at all.
2. The grenade pin on the hydraulic tensioner gave me a lot of trouble. I think it's because I didn't pull it fast enough so only 1 side got stuck. I started using pliers to twist it out and here is the result:
So I ended up pulling until it broke off the hole. I'm sure it doesn't affect the operation of the tensioner whatsoever though.
3. When lining up the front and rear cam marks, sometimes the pulley will not want to spin a certain way, I realized that it's okay to use a wrench to turn the pulley and force it in position.
Here are some pics of the process:
The bolt was definitely on very tight, this was my setup at first, and when it didn't work I used the bottom end of the jack handle to get another extra 2' length. Don't use any weak tool here. I used a 19mm impact deep socket, and an impact extension, all 1/2" drive.
I even thought about using the starter method but I realized the 07+ auto start feature makes it kinda risky.
because I had to support the engine when removing the side engine mount, the jack was positioned right under the water pump, so my pan only caught like 10% of the coolant, and the rest spilled on the floor
Line up timing marks:
Total process took me about 8 hours, not bad for my first time. If I were to do it again I can probably do it in about 6 hours.
Last edited by paperboy42190; 12-29-2012 at 02:27 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by paperboy42190:
#2
Suzuka Master
nice DIY.
#3
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
Nice job. I too have never tackled the TB service but if I had a garage i believe i could do it. ( I do all my "cars" work outside on my gravel driveway FML)
...and I use large cardboard boxes to lay all over the ground when working.
...and I use large cardboard boxes to lay all over the ground when working.
#4
Instructor
Great job and pics. I did mine about year ago and had no problems other than lining marks up again which was not bad. I am planning on doing valve adjustment because it just seems its louder now and already bought the stuff for timing belt job, maybe ill do a diy of it. You planning to do valve adjustment, you think you need it?
Great job again
Great job again
#6
Race Director
Why not just append this to the existing DIY instead of starting a separate thread??
#7
Safety Car
Nice job Seems like a pain in the ass though.
Trending Topics
#9
Drifting
#11
the overexplainer
It is indeed a pain in the ass. But if you have a free saturday and want to save $500+ (for those people not around Hamilton), it's worth it. Plus you can feel good about changing the infamous timing belt.
to be honest, I would say this is easier than modifying the suspension, since everything is bolted on and not under tension, really. If you can do your suspension, you can do a timing belt. Y'all just need to get over the fear of messing up and just double check everything. It's actually straightforward once you get the motor mount, CP bolt, and covers out of the way.
grats on the completion.
to be honest, I would say this is easier than modifying the suspension, since everything is bolted on and not under tension, really. If you can do your suspension, you can do a timing belt. Y'all just need to get over the fear of messing up and just double check everything. It's actually straightforward once you get the motor mount, CP bolt, and covers out of the way.
grats on the completion.
Last edited by ez12a; 12-29-2012 at 11:46 AM.
#12
Nice work! I did mine in the spring (2012) @ 102K; I have a garage, though.
How did the old pulleys/bearings feel compared to the new parts? Water pump bearing?
I spun that lock-pin/grenade pin to make sure it wasn't sticking in the bore before I bolted it up. It looks like yours was sticking inside the bore.
How did the old pulleys/bearings feel compared to the new parts? Water pump bearing?
I spun that lock-pin/grenade pin to make sure it wasn't sticking in the bore before I bolted it up. It looks like yours was sticking inside the bore.
#15
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
Received 6,470 Likes
on
5,162 Posts
Well done, young squire!
#17
Good job! I did this about 2 years ago and hardest part was removing the crank bolt, oh and I had to replace all the engine and trany mounts which was a pain in the ass, especially the back mount. It took me longer to get that one out then anything else, but it sure feels good when your all done. I think it's a man thing, well thats what the wife says.
#19
A wire wheel on the battery tie down before you thread it in helps quite a bit. I didn't have a problem with mine and I did it at 170k. Only issue I had was the crank bolt. My Snap-On gun couldn't do it by itself. Oxy acetylene to the rescue! I think I did mine in 4 hours, but that was with taking my time and being anal about everything. I do this for a living though.
Excellent job doing it yourself. It's a good feeling when it's done.
Excellent job doing it yourself. It's a good feeling when it's done.
#20
Race Director
1. there is the battery tie down that was referred to in the DIY but it took me forever just to find the threaded hole for it, and when I did, it wouldnt even thread in all the way, after like 60% threads in, it got too hard to turn, I resorted to using a 21mm socket to hold the hook but that only got me slightly farther. So that was like an hour wasted for me. I suggest not even bothering with it at all.
Nice photos! What camera did you use?
And again a note to the MODS, I recommend merging this with the other DIY thread. Don't really see any new info here and don't really see a reason to get info fragmented between two separate TB threads..
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-30-2012 at 09:38 AM.
#21
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Thanks for all the compliments guys I'm glad I did it myself and saved couple hundred dollars!
well my motor runs and sounds fine so i dont think i'll benefit from a valve adjustment.
the adjuster and pulley felt the same to be honest, and so did the water pump, the water pump pulley spun the same as the new one IMO. The only thing that really needed replacing was the hydrualic tensioner as it was leaking. still, im sure its a good idea to change them all out.
Dam I should have spun the pin first, too late now lol
a transmission rebuild? lol
The video is great, he showed a new method of loosening the bolt without the crank pulley holder tool, which was very interesting. He shoved a long piece of rubber tube with screwdriver in cylinder 1 through the spark plug hole to hold the pistons in place so the crank pulley wont move. he did say its risky and should only be used as a last resort. Other than that....it was pretty much the same, but I'm sure it would feel more assuring for a first timer to see the video than a few pics because eric goes through pretty much every bolt and nut.
Yea maybe this thread should be merged with the timing belt DIY thread, you're right.
Pics taken my iPhone 4S camera
Great job and pics. I did mine about year ago and had no problems other than lining marks up again which was not bad. I am planning on doing valve adjustment because it just seems its louder now and already bought the stuff for timing belt job, maybe ill do a diy of it. You planning to do valve adjustment, you think you need it?
Great job again
Great job again
Nice work! I did mine in the spring (2012) @ 102K; I have a garage, though.
How did the old pulleys/bearings feel compared to the new parts? Water pump bearing?
I spun that lock-pin/grenade pin to make sure it wasn't sticking in the bore before I bolted it up. It looks like yours was sticking inside the bore.
How did the old pulleys/bearings feel compared to the new parts? Water pump bearing?
I spun that lock-pin/grenade pin to make sure it wasn't sticking in the bore before I bolted it up. It looks like yours was sticking inside the bore.
Dam I should have spun the pin first, too late now lol
a transmission rebuild? lol
Good to know. I was wondering if his video offered anything beyond what is covered in Majofo's DIY and the SM. Anything in particular that you learned from the video that wasn't covered in the DIY? I may consider buying that video before I do my second TB change, it's only 80K miles away
Nice photos! What camera did you use?
And again a note to the MODS, I recommend merging this with the other DIY thread. Don't really see any new info here and don't really see a reason to get info fragmented between two separate TB threads..
Nice photos! What camera did you use?
And again a note to the MODS, I recommend merging this with the other DIY thread. Don't really see any new info here and don't really see a reason to get info fragmented between two separate TB threads..
Yea maybe this thread should be merged with the timing belt DIY thread, you're right.
Pics taken my iPhone 4S camera
#22
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#23
TLicious Type S
Impressive job. This one scares me though. I've done lots of valves on Hondas, but am intimidated by timing belts. This might help me gather up the courage to try. Thanks.
#24
the overexplainer
just double check your work, imo.
The following users liked this post:
dannyz (01-15-2013)
The following users liked this post:
paperboy42190 (01-16-2013)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
asahrts
Member Cars for Sale
0
09-04-2015 05:55 PM