According to Edumand's, the invoice price on the 2008 models isn't available yet. The 2007 invoice price is $30,848. I'm wondering what the best price I should expect to pay for a 2008 wo/ nav is... 1% over invoice? I know there is about 3 % of dealer hold-back in the invoice price as well.

Two questions:

1) Does anyone know what the invoice on a 2008 TL wo/ nav is?
2) What did other's in here pay for their 2008 TL (thought I say a thread about this but can't find it)?

I wanna know if I play hardball with the dealer exactly how low I can go without looking ridiculously.

 

This is the source I used for invoice pricing NADA GUIDES CLICK HERE

2008 TL Invoice: $30,991
2008 TL Navi Invoice: $33,283


This might help...

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=best+price

 

Thanks IBYFan. Now I wonder if that invoice price of $30,991 is padded (customary is 3 % dealer hold-back).

 

You should pay no more than $29,205. This is the price that you should begin bargaining from.

 

IMO...invoice should be the MOST you'd want to pay, as dahvaio said..you should aim nad realistically try to get it under invoice, heck I got my Mercedes truck under invoice

 

Darksky,

I just purchased a TL-NAV. The invoice price + destination for this car would be $33,998. I got mine with destination for $32,700 (before tax,title,registration). And got the special 2.9% financing on it. Dahvaio gave you a good bargaining price.

I'm in Jersey, the area I live around has about 4 dealers so I'd say get as many quotes as you can and go lower than the lowest one you got.


JUST get the TL-Navigation, you will NOT regret it. You are spending all that $$ anyways.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I dunno about the nav feature ($2,200 extra I believe). I just don't see myself using it.

Do you or others have a suggestion for how to approach this negation? In other words, "I'm going to write a figure on this piece of paper, this is the amount I'm prepared to pay for this car."

Since the invoice price is $30,991, how can I justify the $29,205 figure and how did you arrive at it? I would like to buy this car early this week so again, any advice is welcomed.

 

Tell them the number, when they say no.. Leave... If you have a check in hand or cash they will be alot more willing to work with you.

 

That is a good approach if done tastefully, as long as you are firm about it and they know you are ready to purchase with cash they will work with you. Like someone else mentioned, it is especially helpful if there are other dealerships in the area b/c they know what they will sell the car for (invoice) - I got mine at $500 below invoice in August this year, and I paid cash.

Just be patient and take your time. You will find the car at the price you want to pay, not what the dealership wants to make.

 

I might put down a chunk, but my expectation is to take advantage of the 2.9 % financing deal since I can earn over 4.5 % APY in my money market savings account.

 

In San Antonio there is 1 dealership (with 1 simple price... a bad one). I got my car in Austin after TT&L it was sticker price... It was my first real car and my dad sold cars (before I was born) and he helped me be mean to them. The consumer shouldnt have to pay for packing (which they tried to charge me) and there is more money on the dealers side if they sell x that month...

It also helped that my bank gave me a blank check.

Just need to time it right... The end of the year is one of the better times to do it...

I think you might have a little more trouble getting a great deal on an 08 in 07... But good luck to you.

 

what about lease deals on 08 TL-S?

i'm in the market for one. my local dealer said they would lease at invoice.

the MF on leases is .00081 which is GREAT. but makes me wonder if i really could get the car's cap cost UNDER invoice.

i know holdback is 3% of MSRP and there is 2k cash back... not sure if the dealer ONLY gets that on a cash sale..or if you can get that with a lease too?

i was under the impression you only get the curent 2k rebate i fyou just buy it, but if you use the 2.9% financing rates OR you use the special lease rates you LOSE the 2k.

is that true or BS.

i've seen invoice on the TL-S to be around 35800 or something like that.

so could I get them to sell me the TL-S at 33500 or 34000 and THEN use the .00081 MF or would they refuse.

 

btw OP welcome to acurazine!

^^^^^^^I'm with above stupid

btw, don't we have like 2083523598032803295.5 threads on this Lol

 

2008 INVOICE FOR THE FOLLOWING MODELS (NOT INCLUDING DESTINATION, add $715 for destination):

Base TL - $30,990.83

TL + Nav - $33,283.33

TL Type-S - $35,117.33

 

it's a bad decision to go without navi. HTH.

 

It's $2,500 for something I really don't need. Are you thinking for resale... or?

 

you don't need it, but once you have it, you'll never go back.

it's like a cell phone. you don't NEED it....but would go back to not having one?

 

@23109 - I actually don't have a cell phone because I don't need one I do appreciate your suggestion though, and I'll consider it moving forward... back to the topic though.... if anyone else cares to share negotiating gambits I am still all ears. Also, if anyone recently bought a 2008 TL, I would be interested in hearing what you paid.

Thanks all!

 

I realize you don't want to stay on this point, but I need to add my 2 cents. I'm not at all a Nav fan and am willing to take the resale hit and go without (my idea of navigation is a $5 map from Wal-Mart). That said, I'm afraid it really is becoming a "can't go without" item in near luxury cars like the TL (and the TSX for that matter). My reasons, in addition to yours, number a few; for one thing, I don't care for the looks of it at all, I don't like having virtually every electrical accessory tied in with the nav system (radio, CD, clock, etc.) so if that sh**ts the bed, so does everything else. And I'm afraid it's just one more distraction while driving. Anyway, don't let the nav proponents here sway you if you're willing to go without (and save $2500).

On the money thing, I'd like to comment also. I've bought a bunch of new cars over the years, and have come to a conclusion that many may or may not reach at some point too. That is, when you're buying a new car, digging for the last $50 or $100 (or $200 for that matter) may seem terribly important at the time, but a few years down the road it won't amount to a hill of beans. If you, like most, keep your car for at least 3 years, when it comes time to sell or trade it, you won't not only remember what you paid for it, you won't care. And though it often seems like every one you talk too paid less than you, you know that can't be true. Do pretty much what you're doing now; research, ask around, and settle on a price you'd be willing to pay. I'd suggest finding a good dealer and sticking with it, but many prefer to run around and play one against the other for the last $5. Whatever; do what suits your style. Buy the car and don't look back; it's too late to find a better deal or recriminate about how you should have done this or that. Just enjoy the new car smell and the realize how fortunate you are. Saving or spending a few bucks more won't change that.

 

as to negotiating tactics;

if you truly want the best deal possible - you don't go the dealer.

you find all the dealers within say 50-100 miles and you start calling them.

you tell them exactly what you want - confirm you have test driven the car and WILL buy it. tell them you will buy it THAT day - and you are calling to get quotes.

if you sound like a "for real" person - you may get some takers who will email or fax you written quotes.

i did that when I bought my MDX. i still had a few dealers that insisted I come donw. I politely told them I would not come down until they gave mea quote. some would play, some wouldn't.

once you get a decent quote in writing, you call the others back and tell them what you got offered.

I had one place, offer to meet that price - and I felt it was good enough. I had some still saying "come down and I can beat it" but wouldn't commit in writing so I didn't go down.

i got one dealer that said he could not match it, and he said, if you got it offered to you at THAT price, then buy it.

i agree with anothe rperson here, who said, if you haggle down to the last $5/month...you maybe spending too much time on the negotiating and wasting time. you want to get a good deal..and on say a 3 year lease, $5/month is $180. do you really want to blow a deal over $180?

when I get one deale saying MSRP is all we will do. we do not go below it. and I tell him I have already seen edmunds.com forums with people buying them for 500-1000 off MSRP and he says "no way, that's not possible, I have never done that and never will"...then you have to think maybe I'm getting BS. that same moron dealer was calling me up begging to sell me a car and MATCH my other offers of $2500 OFF MSRP.... gee...I thought you never did that....

once i got to about where i wanted to be, i didn't try to kill them for the last $5. but I sure as hell wasn't going to get ripped off..

the worst thing you can do as a car buyer is to go to the car lot, uninformed, and ready to buy. you will get taken. you need to do your homework first. the forums on inside line at edmunds are a great place to look for what deals are really like. once you are armed with the basic info on what others are really paying, what holdback is, what MSRP/invoice is, and how low are the dealers going now.... then you can negotiate. and be ready to WALK if you don't get what you want. the internet/phone negotiating helps there b/c the emotion is remoeved. you are not on their lot, they can't tag team you, etc.

good luck.

from my current research, if you buy/lease a TL right now you WILL get it at invoice. if you pay cash (don't use the special lease/finance rates)_ you can get it for probably close to $2k UNDER invoice.

the current lease deals are smokin' hot. MF = .00081 which is VERY good.

 

First off, thanks for all the replies, all. This is a great community. I'll be negotiating with them tomorrow afternoon and will post my final selling price here - I know you're all dying to know

 

...by the way, there is a $2,000 dealer rebate now through the end of the month. We buyers aren't supposed to know about it.

 

you can ONLY use the $2000 if you buy.

you CAN'T use that discount with a lease. I believe it's because THAT $2000 is effectively going toward the crazy low Money Factor on the lease.

the lease MF is .00081 which is essentially 1.9%

honestly...I think for this car, the lease is the way to go if you get one.

 

I was planning on going down to my dealer to talk in person. But now I think I will call them instead. So if I'm not as lucky, as some people out there, to get it for invoice then what is considered a decent price? What about $600 above invoice?

 

out here in la (where there are a ton of dealers), u can get a base tl w/nav for 31k. a type-s will run 33k and this is with zer0 haggling. the dealer i talked to said the base w/nav is by far the best selling acura in the socal area. if u ask me, a type-s for 33k is a steal. i'm pretty sure that includes destination and of course before ttl which will run 7.5-8.25% just for tax in this area.

 

Wow, it truly does depend on the dealer and their inventory as year-end approaches. One of my local guys told me $30,800+TTL on a TL+Nav and $29,705+TTL on the non-Nav. I bought the non-Nav That is a good price for the TL+Nav though... ($1,100 for the thing and back-up camera).

 

sorry to ask, but where are you located?
i am currently in market for TL-Nav and that is pretty good price imo...
i've been quoted around 32k for base TL-Nav model and i want it around 32k OTD...
if it is hard for you to disclose your location, just PM me.
thanks.

 

Can't send you a PM dude:

 

Welcome to the forums.

You can't send or receive PM's until you get 5 posts and have at least one day in the forum. When you get your 5th post, and it's at least your second day here, give the computer time to update, then check your profile under "Contact Info" and it should say "Send a private message to (your user name)", and then you can do PM's. One of you two will have to leave an email address if you want to get in contact with each other.

 

thanks ron for the welcome. yeah i forgot about that PM rule....

darksky can you send me an email to hellothere_sup@hotmail.com ? thanks a lot dude.

 

Done

 

Having sold cars in the past, all the previous posts point out some good suggestions when going to the dealership.

One i want to disagree with and is very annoying is the "I am going to pay cash for the car", i.e, i want a great deal since I am paying cash.

Well, how else were you going to pay for it? Car dealerships do not take monopoly money. See, whether you finance the car or you stroke a check for the full amount the car dealership still gets the full amount. You are not borrowing money from the dealership you are borrowing money from the bank and the bank cuts the dealership a check for the full amount.

So telling the sales person you are paying cash is stupid, also the dealership doesnt really like people that pay cash. They would rather have you finance it to make money on the back end. When customers would tell me in the past that, "they are going to pay cash for the vehicle", My reply was always "how else are you going to pay for it"? i know all this seems obvious, but mr. good deal must understand that by stroking a check for the full amount does not benefit the dealership one bit.

 

Never say you want to pay cash or have financing arranged. They actually make money from the finance company for setting it up (a commission of sorts). Always act like you are considering your options.

 

Hi Guys,
I am in the market for a TL+Nav to put under the tree for my wife. Right now leasing appears to be my best option. I own a '06 Ody touring and rather than take on another sizable monthly payment I figure I'll take my cash and pay off the Ody and then take a 36 month lease on the TL. This is going to be my first lease so any tips as to what I should be looking for? Should I assume that the lease amount for the vehicle should be around invoice or less? Starting with a invoice amount on the lease does my buy-out, if I choose to do so, also reflect the differance or do they hose me in the end? I suppose the only thing I really don't have going for me is that I have to go with a higher annual milage figure. Somewhere around 20000 per year. Where can I go to calculate exactly what price, monthly payment, and buy-out I should be looking for?
I am in southern NH if that helps.
Thanks in advance.

 

BTW, I already got a lease price at MSRP. 1300 down, 459 x 36 w/ 18000 mi/yr, 20,377 buy-out. Can I do better?

 

I haven't leased before, but I have a number of friends who do. I don't think you'll find one that'll allow for 20k miles/yr but I could be wrong. One of my best friends leased @ x miles per year (I forget the number) and she ending up exceeding the lease terms by 8,000 miles as I recall. The terms forced her to pay some awful amount/mile for every mile over the agreed amount as a plenty; it was clearly structured to force a buy out which is what she ended-up doing. Thing is, who wants to buy a 3-year-old car with tons of miles for the pre-arranged price....

Do you qualify for the 2.9 %/3 year or 4.9 %/5 year plan? There is also $2,000 dealer rebate; you should be able to out-right buy a TL+Nav for $31,500+TTL (included destination) with no haggling... just walk in, test drive, and tell them, "I'm willing to pay $31,500 for this car." Don't pay a penny more, walk away -- they will follow you (at least they followed me when I started to walk away). This is a GREAT time of year since 2007 has month-end targets for the dealerships and they want to meet them. Plus, Acura is giving out $2k in dealer rebates they'll pass on to you.

Just a thought...

 

Can't edit my post, but you can probably do invoice - $2000 which is 31,300, not $31,500.

 

In the past I have always been very opposed to leasing. The thing is the lease would keep me much more liquid. For example; I owe about 10k on my Ody. If I took 10k and applied it to a downpayment on the TL, I would end up finacing 22k. So now on top of my $460/ month payment on the Ody I would have to add another $420 or so. Ouch! I figure I would be better off paying off the Ody early (intrest savings there) then leasing the TL. So for the same outlay of cash I would still have a payment but one payment is better than two.
Yeah I know, I really take a hit on equity in the car. But how much is it really? I mean let's say I keep the car until the loan term is finished. I had a total outlay of maybe 36k on a 32k note. So how much is a five year old TL worth? Let's say 16k just for ha-has. Cost of that car is 4k a year. Now factor the maintenance and the fact that I have a 5 year old car, am I really so much worse off leasing?

 

5 minutes to edit?!? I just can't type that fast. I figure cost of ownership over five years going lease/ buyout vs. straight buy is only about 1k more. Not a big differance IMHO.

 

@BigDogues - No one knows your own financial situation better than you do... I just wanted to put the buy option out there to give you a set of choices, nothing more. Did you find out if they would allow your requisite 20,000 miles/yr on the lease? Seems to me that would be a major point of contention.