Improve Stopping Power in 07 TL-S
#1
Improve Stopping Power in 07 TL-S
Well, I put out a thread a few days ago looking for a place to replace my brake pads/rotors. I have a question about that though.
Would I get noticeably better stopping power if I used something completely aftermarket or will I be fine just replacing stock components with new stock stuff (pads & rotors)? I don't know what to buy at all (i'm more of a computer person than I am mechanical). So if this sounds like a noob question; it is - the 07 TL-S brakes - is that considered a big brake kit?
I feel like I am constantly coming close to rear ending people because my brakes feel totally shot at this point.
Should I also look into upgrading the rear brakes?
Would I get noticeably better stopping power if I used something completely aftermarket or will I be fine just replacing stock components with new stock stuff (pads & rotors)? I don't know what to buy at all (i'm more of a computer person than I am mechanical). So if this sounds like a noob question; it is - the 07 TL-S brakes - is that considered a big brake kit?
I feel like I am constantly coming close to rear ending people because my brakes feel totally shot at this point.
Should I also look into upgrading the rear brakes?
#2
You do have a BBK, in the front. However, the rears are regular stock OEM brakes. You can upgrade the rear brakes which would improve stopping power. Replacing pads + rotors (to aftermarket) is the cheapest way, or you can actually get a rear BBK.
From my experience the stock BBK works just fine. Maybe your brakes are worn and it's time to replace the pads?
From my experience the stock BBK works just fine. Maybe your brakes are worn and it's time to replace the pads?
#3
Yes, the 07 TL-S brakes are upgraded brakes compared to the base models. I would recommend just changing out the pads and keeping the OEM rotors if u are not racing. Aftermarkets pads like the HAWK HPS are pretty good. I have used them before in my previous car and the braking power is noticably better.. But be sure to break them in properly!
#4
yes changing the pads/rotors make a noticeable difference. i just put in some hawk ceramics into my 07 WDP TL-S a couple days ago and i think they are wonderful! Adds a little more ummph to your stops than the stocks. And as stated above, break them in properly.
#5
Definetly that car has a BBK, only thing im not happy about are the rear brakes. Maybe you can upgrade your disc, to the ones that are perforated. Those have good stooping power and it will maintain the Brake pad colder.
#6
front vs rear brakes
The front brakes do the majority of the work in stopping the car; changing out the rear brake hardware will not improve your stopping distances by much.
The stock TL-S (and TL w/manual transmission) brakes are already quite good, I would recommend just staying with the stock setup.
Jason
The stock TL-S (and TL w/manual transmission) brakes are already quite good, I would recommend just staying with the stock setup.
Jason
#7
Do you guys realize that your rear brakes only do 15% of the braking?
If you really a better bite, you would need slotted rotors with good performance pads in a 4 piston setup.
Nyclio, what makes you think your BBK is inadequate?
If you really a better bite, you would need slotted rotors with good performance pads in a 4 piston setup.
Nyclio, what makes you think your BBK is inadequate?
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#8
Perforated rotors
Perforated rotors are overkill in street use; you're actually reducing the friction area available to the pads.
Been there, done that, with former cars...
They look cool but don't do much for you unless maybe you're using your car on the track.
Been there, done that, with former cars...
They look cool but don't do much for you unless maybe you're using your car on the track.
#9
Originally Posted by Opti
Perforated rotors are overkill in street use; you're actually reducing the friction area available to the pads.
Been there, done that, with former cars...
They look cool but don't do much for you unless maybe you're using your car on the track.
Been there, done that, with former cars...
They look cool but don't do much for you unless maybe you're using your car on the track.
D
#10
One shot stops using a TL, while yet to be fully tested, I suspect would yield close to 100% effectiveness.
Oops, you're talking about brakes.. not firing a TL at a perp.
(y'all gotta know I just couldn't resist this one)
Oops, you're talking about brakes.. not firing a TL at a perp.
(y'all gotta know I just couldn't resist this one)
#11
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
Do you guys realize that your rear brakes only do 15% of the braking?
If you really a better bite, you would need slotted rotors with good performance pads in a 4 piston setup.
Nyclio, what makes you think your BBK is inadequate?
If you really a better bite, you would need slotted rotors with good performance pads in a 4 piston setup.
Nyclio, what makes you think your BBK is inadequate?
Well, I actually don't know that - I don't know what the benefits are from one BBK to another. I saw a lot of guys using a Stoptech BBK - not saying that's better or worse since I don't know. I just know right now that my car never seems to stop quick enough. I was under the impression that rotors make a bigger difference than brake pads when it comes to stopping distance. I guess I'll get the pads changed and see the difference it makes.
#12
nyclio....
Let's say you are getting of the highway ramp, going 60mph, and if you depress the brakes moderately, you car doesn't drop to 30-40 right away?
What about on the street, if you are going 30 mph, and then you hit the brakes hard without locking your wheels, you car doesn't stop on a dime? It could be your tires too.
Tell us the symptoms
Let's say you are getting of the highway ramp, going 60mph, and if you depress the brakes moderately, you car doesn't drop to 30-40 right away?
What about on the street, if you are going 30 mph, and then you hit the brakes hard without locking your wheels, you car doesn't stop on a dime? It could be your tires too.
Tell us the symptoms
#13
I put on some stoptech drilled/slotted rotors(posi quiet pad) from excelerate...
ive put abt 1200 miles on them and i love them...
i wont know abt pad life for a while...but im not too concerned with that
sometiems i street race...well more often than not i'll pull up to a traffic light and see someone else and they always rev there engine and then i embarass them...its surprising how quick the TL is vs 90% of the cars around...
hence my stock rotors and pads are not meant for that so I changed it...
ive put abt 1200 miles on them and i love them...
i wont know abt pad life for a while...but im not too concerned with that
sometiems i street race...well more often than not i'll pull up to a traffic light and see someone else and they always rev there engine and then i embarass them...its surprising how quick the TL is vs 90% of the cars around...
hence my stock rotors and pads are not meant for that so I changed it...
#14
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
nyclio....
Let's say you are getting of the highway ramp, going 60mph, and if you depress the brakes moderately, you car doesn't drop to 30-40 right away?
What about on the street, if you are going 30 mph, and then you hit the brakes hard without locking your wheels, you car doesn't stop on a dime? It could be your tires too.
Tell us the symptoms
Let's say you are getting of the highway ramp, going 60mph, and if you depress the brakes moderately, you car doesn't drop to 30-40 right away?
What about on the street, if you are going 30 mph, and then you hit the brakes hard without locking your wheels, you car doesn't stop on a dime? It could be your tires too.
Tell us the symptoms
#15
Originally Posted by nyclio
My antilock brakes act up a lot and the pedal starts to shudder. When I put my foot down to stop the car, it slows down, but doesn't come to a complete stop until i really put my foot through the floor. I took it to the dealer (a month ago) and they told me I only had 1 mm left on the pad and it was very close to metal on metal.
well thats your reason...how many miles are you at? is this your FIRST pad change?
#17
as everyone put it...you can try new pads and just have your rotors resurfaced...or you can try a different method, new rotors(slotted or drilled/slotted)
i also have a 2001 CL type s and i have drilled slotted rotors on there also, and the braking is just better...
good luck on your decision
i also have a 2001 CL type s and i have drilled slotted rotors on there also, and the braking is just better...
good luck on your decision
#19
What in your head makes the brakes bad? Pedal feel? Percieved stopping distance?
The TL is a heavy car- and the Type S brakes do a good job of slowing it down. Pads + new fluild are the easiest upgrade but outside of that you aren't going to get much additional stopping distance. Big brake kits, upgraded lines and drilled rotors are the kinds of things that work well to reduce brake fade over time (like on a track), but on the street the actual distance over the OEM is going to be fairly minimal.
I'd put in some more aggressive pads (which will dust quite a bit more) and bleed with some better fluid if you need. If you need a car that slows down better consider something lighter ;-)
The TL is a heavy car- and the Type S brakes do a good job of slowing it down. Pads + new fluild are the easiest upgrade but outside of that you aren't going to get much additional stopping distance. Big brake kits, upgraded lines and drilled rotors are the kinds of things that work well to reduce brake fade over time (like on a track), but on the street the actual distance over the OEM is going to be fairly minimal.
I'd put in some more aggressive pads (which will dust quite a bit more) and bleed with some better fluid if you need. If you need a car that slows down better consider something lighter ;-)
#20
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,734
Likes: 11
From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
no question better stopping power will start off buy getting RacingBrake 2 piece Rotors for the fronts with the racingbrake pads
if your vsa ever engages where the road is dry, your pads are low... additionally there is a small tab that indicates where, this tab is activated when the pad is too low, you will hear a squeek... if the squeek goes away its because you wore it a point where ur metal on metal and the tab has no surface anymore
imo either get hawk hps pads on the stock rotors or upgrade the entire thing
if your vsa ever engages where the road is dry, your pads are low... additionally there is a small tab that indicates where, this tab is activated when the pad is too low, you will hear a squeek... if the squeek goes away its because you wore it a point where ur metal on metal and the tab has no surface anymore
imo either get hawk hps pads on the stock rotors or upgrade the entire thing
#21
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
Rotors/pads/lines and fluid should be sufficient.
Get some ROTORA slotted or drilled/slotted rotors, good ceramic pads, and some SS brake lines to firmen up the pedal with some MOTUL DOT 5.1 and your braking will be significantly improved.
Get some ROTORA slotted or drilled/slotted rotors, good ceramic pads, and some SS brake lines to firmen up the pedal with some MOTUL DOT 5.1 and your braking will be significantly improved.
#22
Rev High; Drive Happy
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,076
Likes: 398
From: Scarborough, Ontario
My brakes are all rusted looking but are fine looking on the surface...
Squeels a lot especially when going downhill. Sometimes when in neutral and I apply the e-brake.. the car will still roll back down [that's with the e-brake pretty far up]. Stopping power seems to have been loss while coming to a stop while going 60km/h.
Thinking about BBK slotted/drill like some of you as well.. and some bigger brakes in the back too.
Also wondering, is it possible to swap the 4piston to 6piston without too much hassle?
Squeels a lot especially when going downhill. Sometimes when in neutral and I apply the e-brake.. the car will still roll back down [that's with the e-brake pretty far up]. Stopping power seems to have been loss while coming to a stop while going 60km/h.
Thinking about BBK slotted/drill like some of you as well.. and some bigger brakes in the back too.
Also wondering, is it possible to swap the 4piston to 6piston without too much hassle?
#24
Originally Posted by BlacuraTL-S
I put on some stoptech drilled/slotted rotors(posi quiet pad) from excelerate...
ive put abt 1200 miles on them and i love them...
i wont know abt pad life for a while...but im not too concerned with that
sometiems i street race...well more often than not i'll pull up to a traffic light and see someone else and they always rev there engine and then i embarass them...its surprising how quick the TL is vs 90% of the cars around...
hence my stock rotors and pads are not meant for that so I changed it...
ive put abt 1200 miles on them and i love them...
i wont know abt pad life for a while...but im not too concerned with that
sometiems i street race...well more often than not i'll pull up to a traffic light and see someone else and they always rev there engine and then i embarass them...its surprising how quick the TL is vs 90% of the cars around...
hence my stock rotors and pads are not meant for that so I changed it...
I got these from excelerate last month...
#25
I don't believe the TL 6SPD or the Type S are under braked for the street. even very aggressive street use. Feel, balance, pedal modulation & stopping distances are all excellent.
I got there Brembo rotors when I changed the original pads (22,000miles) for another OEM Brembo pad set as a cosmetic change impulse buy.
I don't see any noticeable change in overall performance from the solid Brembo's to the drilled Brembo's. The whole swap has been pretty transparent as fas as driving the car is concerned.
My thought on a potential improvement would be to go to more aggressive stickier summer tires if you don't live in the Snowbelt.
I got there Brembo rotors when I changed the original pads (22,000miles) for another OEM Brembo pad set as a cosmetic change impulse buy.
I don't see any noticeable change in overall performance from the solid Brembo's to the drilled Brembo's. The whole swap has been pretty transparent as fas as driving the car is concerned.
My thought on a potential improvement would be to go to more aggressive stickier summer tires if you don't live in the Snowbelt.
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