Impact wrench recommendations?
Impact wrench recommendations?
I'm planning to get either an electric or cordless impact wrench soon for my timing belt change on my TL (to remove the crank pulley). I was wondering if anyone here can recommend one to me. I like to stay under $300 if getting a cordless one.
thanks
thanks
Many posts on doing the job, but in my opinion an impact wrench with the torque needed to remove that bolt is quite expensive for one time uasage, so use the breaker bar method with an impact socket rather than the regular run of the mill chrome socket. If you still want to use an impact, battery, large capacity e.g. IR or if air you'll neeed a large tank and large ID air hose to produce the needed torque to remove the bolt.
Honda Service Bulletin
Remove Stubborn Crank Pulley Bolts
Although our crankshaft pulley bolts are high quality,
they may stick to the crankshaft threads when properly
torqued. In fact, a properly torqued pulley bolt may
require up to two or three times the installation torque to
remove! (Now there’s a job for the proverbial two men
and a boy!) Here’s how we remove these stubborn
pulley bolts:
1. Insert the appropriate crank pulley holder into the
pulley. (See S/B 92-040, “Crankshaft Pulley
Holder,” filed under Special Tools.)
2. Support the crank pulley holder handle with a jack
stand or transmission jack to get the weight of the
car working for you.
3. Use a high-strength, long-handled, breaker bar with
an impact socket to remove the bolt (which has
right-hand threads). Try a 36-inch breaker bar if you
have one (though there may be times when a bar 48
– 60 inches long would be nice).
When you reinstall the bolt, lubricate the threads and
flange with motor oil, but don’t lube the washer or
pulley. Retorque the bolt to the specs in the appropriate
S/M. The torque is critical; don’t skimp just because you
had a hard time removing the bolt.
Honda Service Bulletin
Remove Stubborn Crank Pulley Bolts
Although our crankshaft pulley bolts are high quality,
they may stick to the crankshaft threads when properly
torqued. In fact, a properly torqued pulley bolt may
require up to two or three times the installation torque to
remove! (Now there’s a job for the proverbial two men
and a boy!) Here’s how we remove these stubborn
pulley bolts:
1. Insert the appropriate crank pulley holder into the
pulley. (See S/B 92-040, “Crankshaft Pulley
Holder,” filed under Special Tools.)
2. Support the crank pulley holder handle with a jack
stand or transmission jack to get the weight of the
car working for you.
3. Use a high-strength, long-handled, breaker bar with
an impact socket to remove the bolt (which has
right-hand threads). Try a 36-inch breaker bar if you
have one (though there may be times when a bar 48
– 60 inches long would be nice).
When you reinstall the bolt, lubricate the threads and
flange with motor oil, but don’t lube the washer or
pulley. Retorque the bolt to the specs in the appropriate
S/M. The torque is critical; don’t skimp just because you
had a hard time removing the bolt.
I did the timing belt last weekend.
I agree purchasing a compressor/pneumatic impact or a cordless just for this job is a lot of money to spend.
A big 1/2 breaker bar didnt work even with a 6 ft long pipe. I just twisted the setup 90 degrees with no avail.
I used the starter trick on the CP. It was my last resort, but it worked, and honestly would've saved me half an hour. If you go this route, I would unplug the fuel pump fuse and unplug all the coil packs before trying to crank it.
I agree purchasing a compressor/pneumatic impact or a cordless just for this job is a lot of money to spend.
A big 1/2 breaker bar didnt work even with a 6 ft long pipe. I just twisted the setup 90 degrees with no avail.
I used the starter trick on the CP. It was my last resort, but it worked, and honestly would've saved me half an hour. If you go this route, I would unplug the fuel pump fuse and unplug all the coil packs before trying to crank it.
I spent a VERY long time breaking tools trying to get the crank pulley bolt out on my Accord.
I finally resorted to the starter bump method, and it worked great the second time around. Super easy and fast, and you don't need the holder tool (that was useless on the aftermarket pulley anyways). It sure did shake the car a bit more than I anticipated.
I finally resorted to the starter bump method, and it worked great the second time around. Super easy and fast, and you don't need the holder tool (that was useless on the aftermarket pulley anyways). It sure did shake the car a bit more than I anticipated.
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I just got one from sears for 100$. It advertises 200 lbs of torque. Not sure if it will work for what you need it for but I got it basically just for swapping weeks. It's cordless with a battery.
I did the timing belt last weekend.
I agree purchasing a compressor/pneumatic impact or a cordless just for this job is a lot of money to spend.
A big 1/2 breaker bar didnt work even with a 6 ft long pipe. I just twisted the setup 90 degrees with no avail.
I used the starter trick on the CP. It was my last resort, but it worked, and honestly would've saved me half an hour. If you go this route, I would unplug the fuel pump fuse and unplug all the coil packs before trying to crank it.
I agree purchasing a compressor/pneumatic impact or a cordless just for this job is a lot of money to spend.
A big 1/2 breaker bar didnt work even with a 6 ft long pipe. I just twisted the setup 90 degrees with no avail.
I used the starter trick on the CP. It was my last resort, but it worked, and honestly would've saved me half an hour. If you go this route, I would unplug the fuel pump fuse and unplug all the coil packs before trying to crank it.
x2..thats what I did to remove my crankbolt from my accord.
Cordless impact wrench and Crank Pulley.

Good luck with that.
Try this thread (Kennedy's post on Page 1) instead:
A-098: DIY: UR Crank Pulley info
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153549
You can get a cordless impact IR (Ingersoll Rand) 780 ft lb reverse torque and 1000 ft lb nut busting torque.
Used the starter method many years ago on GM cars that needed the timing chain, cam gear, and/or camshafts replaced, never had a problem, but in retrospect would rather have used a tool to remove the nut but those cars had no tool to hold the crank from turning.
Used the starter method many years ago on GM cars that needed the timing chain, cam gear, and/or camshafts replaced, never had a problem, but in retrospect would rather have used a tool to remove the nut but those cars had no tool to hold the crank from turning.
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I just did the lightweight pulley on mine...
mechanic at work works on fleet vehicles...he hit my pulley bolt with his ingersoll rand 800 dollar gun with the proper sized air hose and it came right off...didn't even need to hold the pulley in place.
J. Good luck!
mechanic at work works on fleet vehicles...he hit my pulley bolt with his ingersoll rand 800 dollar gun with the proper sized air hose and it came right off...didn't even need to hold the pulley in place.
J. Good luck!
OP, rather than spend the money on an impact wrench (you'll need one with at least 400 ft-lbs of torque, but probably more like 600), just find a shop to pop the bolt for you, then retorque the bolt and drive home.
It will now come off easily... Shouldn't cost you more than $50, if that...
It will now come off easily... Shouldn't cost you more than $50, if that...
i use harborfreight impact gun for 100$ so far so good . takes out all the rusted bolts i throw at it..but you also have to match your compressor to match the avg output of the impact gun..rent a compressor n impact gun ...
Speaking of harbor freight impacts... I've always wanted to buy this because it is completely ridiculous. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-profe...vil-68429.html
My nitro cat pnuematic hasn't failed me yet. It is rated at I believe 1000 or 1100 ft/lb torque in reverse. I bought it for crank pulley and axle nuts specifically. I bought it while it was still under 250.00 now I think they are more. Snap-on is good also.
I have done several timing belt jobs in my garage and driveway.
I have not tried to remove the one on my TL yet though.
I have done several timing belt jobs in my garage and driveway.
I have not tried to remove the one on my TL yet though.
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