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I might buy one on Saturday.. have a few questions

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Old 11-03-2010, 07:31 PM
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I might buy one on Saturday.. have a few questions

hey guys,

I think i'm going to buy a TL.. my s2000 got totalled..

I found this 2006 White TL with Black Int. 71k miles.. auto with the NAV.

price after talking back and forth $16,000.. which is under kelly bluebook.. brand new tires (michelin) and new brakes...

Very nice color combo that seems to be rare..

what should i look for when i go take a look at this car? any advice would be a help. thanks!
Old 11-03-2010, 07:35 PM
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make sure it has a type s badge...lol..j/k....well the only thing i can tell you that when you start the car and it seems to be running rough at first that is normal...after it warms up it should get smoother
Old 11-03-2010, 07:42 PM
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i mean the usual things ... make sure fluids are good, how does it drive in general?, how does the interior look?, check all the panels for vin stickers?
Old 11-03-2010, 08:27 PM
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thanks for the advice guys. 07tl... I would buy a Type S if i can find a freaken 6spd manual in southern california... everytime one goes up for sale for the price around 22-25k its gone within 2-3 days.. haha i guess can settle for alittle less :p..

what do you guys think on the price? good? its a few hundred under KBB "good condition"
Old 11-03-2010, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by twiz03
thanks for the advice guys. 07tl... I would buy a Type S if i can find a freaken 6spd manual in southern california... everytime one goes up for sale for the price around 22-25k its gone within 2-3 days.. haha i guess can settle for alittle less :p..

what do you guys think on the price? good? its a few hundred under KBB "good condition"
The price seems fair to me...
Old 11-03-2010, 09:30 PM
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Going from an S2K, I think anything less than a TL-S might be less fun! Maybe search a little more to try and find a 6-spd TL-S!
Old 11-03-2010, 09:36 PM
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even if u dont get a type s ... i would say atleast go for the 6MT ... i regret it everday for not going with one
Old 11-03-2010, 10:49 PM
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I'm pretty settled on an Auto unless its a TL-S.. Manual in the s2000 was annoying sometimes because the shifts were soo short... i like the manual in my 2000 prelude... dont get me wrong, the shift was effortless and silky smooth in the s2000 it was just short... other cars i was looking at was the rdx or rl... i think the TL fits me well.
Old 11-03-2010, 11:00 PM
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i sold my 05 TL Nav 6MT with 58K miles to the dealer for 14K. They will mark it up 2-3 grand so the price you're being offered seems about right if not a wee bit more expensive than it should. You'd be able to knock some off that price though.

the 6mt has a different suspension and brembo brakes up front. the rear sway bar is also a bit thicker. I loved my acura 6MT but as it got older, it was time to replace a lot of things...well at least over the next two years so i traded it in and got a g37.

I would say get the 6mt if possible since the sportiness is way better. if you can't find one, and auto is not a bad deal

Good luck!
Old 11-03-2010, 11:07 PM
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this is just like any other car you shop for....
not really any problems per se. Only if the previous owner didnt care for it.

My TL on start up is not rough, like one poster stated. On startup its very smooth, and cant tell that it is on.

at 105k miles, you'll have to do the timing belt and water pump.
make sure A/C and heat work.

the auto trans has some probs with 3rd and 4th gear synchros. but if you throw in some redline ATF or another high quality ATF it should be fine.

other than that, the TL is bullet proof. theres one member on here with 200k+ miles.
Old 11-04-2010, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
this is just like any other car you shop for....
not really any problems per se. Only if the previous owner didnt care for it.

My TL on start up is not rough, like one poster stated. On startup its very smooth, and cant tell that it is on.

at 105k miles, you'll have to do the timing belt and water pump.
make sure A/C and heat work.

the auto trans has some probs with 3rd and 4th gear synchros. but if you throw in some redline ATF or another high quality ATF it should be fine.

other than that, the TL is bullet proof. theres one member on here with 200k+ miles.
Automatic transmissions do not have synchronizers. Perhaps you mean some other component here.
Old 11-04-2010, 06:41 AM
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^^ I think he meant the pressure switches/ sensors.
Old 11-04-2010, 06:44 AM
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I have one of each: an '04 manual and an '05 automatic, both with NAV. There is quite a noticeable difference in the suspension and handling of these two platforms. However, the automatic is a good one, for those who like such things, and certainly lets the engine do its thing. Not as quick as the manual of course.

I remember writing maybe around four+ years ago on this site that the manual was going to be in high demand in my area because it was when the 3G TL first came out. They got bought up very quickly at the local Acura dealerships. The day I bought my '04 manual, Pohanka's TL inventory was 27% manual. Now trying to find one in decent condition is really difficult. I suspect when the time comes to sell mine, I will be able to get a decent offer since it has been garage kept, parked under cover at work, never seen snow, and is virtually pristine. And it has never had any of the tranny problems others have reported on this site.

If you good folks can locate a clean 3G manual and are in the market, grab it up. The manual in this car turns it into a different machine.
Old 11-04-2010, 07:50 AM
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oh yes a manual on any car compared to an automatic of the same model would feel completely different. My cousin had a 1999 prelude in auto and when i drove it, it felt like a totally different car.. It's really hard to find a manual TL in southern california and i really need a car now so i cant wait much longer.

thanks for all your input guys.. i think ill buy the car on saturday... post of pictures sometime afterwards.
Old 11-04-2010, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
Automatic transmissions do not have synchronizers. Perhaps you mean some other component here.
sorry! yes its pressure switches/sensors.
Old 11-04-2010, 08:24 AM
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Hope they put a new battery in it. Acura batteries only seem to last 2-3 years.

Check Hands Free Link (HFL) blue tooth unit. You should pair your phone and make a call-if this is a feature you want to use. I have 06 with Navi-and just had mine replaced as it was completely dead. Bad HFl will kill a weak battery-therefore the concern with both. Several threads on issues with pairing/using newer smartphones (i-phone/droids). Increasingly, threads with HFL problems for 06 and older cars.

Checkout the thread in the Electronics/Navi/Bluetooth forum for the link to getting the 2011 Navi update disc for ($99+tax+shipping). This is the best price I have ever seen for a new disc from Acura.
Old 11-04-2010, 08:28 AM
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Also, make sure the car has the owner's manual. There are S-O-O-O many features... you'd go nuts without the manual pack. And there is a thread on this site that lists features people have found out that are either not listed in the manual or are little known items. Well worth doing a search for this thread. Basically, the car is feature-laden.
Old 11-04-2010, 08:36 AM
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If you do buy it this weekend, use this inspection checklist. It's a LIFE SAVER!!!

Additional advice:
1) read it thoroughly ahead of time
2) print it out and take it with you
3) give yourself an hour or more to go through every item on the list. Don't take shortcuts on this - you may regret it.
4) as a courtesy, you should warn the seller (if it's not a dealer) that you need about an hour with the car. That way he/she can plan to spend the hour with you, or decide to give you alone time with his/her car. (As someone who has sold a car or two personally, I would really have appreciated the heads up).
Old 11-04-2010, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wallaceoh
Instructions

So you bought a new car and it's ready for you to pick up and drive off the lot. We know you're excited to get on the road, but it is important not to rush the delivery process. Below you'll find some general guidelines and a checklist for you to print out and use the day you pick up your new baby.

-- Call the salesperson ahead of time and let them know that you plan to perform a delivery check during daylight hours. Make an appointment -- getting through your checklist may take more than an hour.

-- Tell the salesperson that you don't want any dealer nameplates affixed to the vehicle in any way (painted, riveted, or adhesive bonded). The license plate holder is okay. Ask that the vehicle's plates remain the dealer's until after you've taken delivery.


1. Note the mileage. Before you do anything else, look at the odometer. It should be as close to zero as possible. After all, you're paying for a brand-new car. And that's exactly what you should get. But there's more than principle involved. The first few hundred miles on a fresh engine are critical if you want it to have a long, trouble-free life. Most manufacturers specify certain procedures during this break-in period; i.e., "Avoid full-throttle acceleration and excessive engine speeds," says one automaker. Unless you buy one that's just rolled off the delivery truck, most brand-new vehicles will have 10 or 20 miles on the clock - miles accumulated from shuffling the truck around the dealership, or from a few test drives. What you don't want is a car with 100 or 200 miles that's been a demonstrator vehicle to every lead-footed prospective buyer in town.

2. Look over the bodywork. Do it in the daylight. And it helps to have an eagle-eyed friend or relative along; four eyes are better than two. Again, you're buying a new car and you should expect a perfect finish. Take the car for a test drive with the dealership's plates installed on the car. The Uniform Commercial Code allows a reasonable opportunity to inspect goods before accepting delivery.

a. Carefully sight along the sides of the car, from front to rear and vice versa, looking for ripples, dimples and dings. Light scratches can be buffed out easily enough. But you certainly don't want a car that's had any repaired body damage.
b. Look for paint over-spray on door ledges or around the edges of the engine compartment that might indicate repairs. Make sure there are no paint swirls from dealer detailing.
c. Make sure seams and door lines are straight and true. Remember, a careful inspection is critical because after the car leaves the lot, the dealer could reasonably claim that any body damage was caused by you.
d. Are the trim, rubstrips, decals, chrome, hood ornaments, and other exterior features present, in good shape (defect-free), and properly attached?

3. Operate and inspect every item on the car:

a. Doors: Do they all work correctly? Do they seal properly?
b. Cruise control
c. Horn
d. Wipers
e. Do the locks work properly -- are they automatic, can they be operated remotely?
f. Does the hood release lever operate from the inside? Do you know the location? Can you open the hood yourself? Does it stay up on its own?
g. Is the engine compartment in perfect shape?
h. Is every dip stick, plastic cover, and wire harness present and properly secured?
i. All the fluids should be at optimal levels: oil, transmission, power steering, brake, windshield wash, and coolant.
j. There should be very little dirt and grime, and not a single sign of fluid leakage of any kind.
k. None of the engine components should show exterior wear or replacement -- things like one spark plug wire that is a completely different shade of black should draw a red flag and a question. They should replace them all with new items if that means you'll drive the vehicle away.
l. Battery: Is it filled properly? Or is it a "no-service" type? (Check the level or sight dot.) No corrosion should be present on the electrodes. It should be properly connected -- fastened to wire leads and properly secured -- tied down in the vehicle. 0 Ask about how to jump it properly. 0 Does it have a special separate warranty?
m. Is the trunk in perfect shape?
i. Is the carpeting properly fastened?
ii. Do the lights work correctly?
iii. Does the internal opening button work correctly?
iv. How about the outside lock?
v. If it has gas shocks to hold up the lid, are they working properly?
vi. Are the extras, such as cargo nets or trunk tray, present as you ordered?

n. Fuel System:
i. Which side is the filler door on?
ii. Can you open it from inside the vehicle?
iii. Does it lock?
iv. What grade of gasoline does the manufacturer recommend?
v. How big is the tank?
vi. At what level does the fuel gauge on the dash register? (Many dealers’ will buy the first tank, just ask!) Does the dash have a low fuel level warning light?
vii. Is there anything special about filling this vehicle with gas (i.e. some gas caps make a ratcheting sound when properly tightened)?


o. Tires:
i. Where is the spare tire and jack system located?
ii. Is the spare properly inflated?
iii. How far can you go on "the donut"?
iv. Is the jack present, accessible? Have you been given a briefing on the use of the jack? (And where do you install it?)
v. If you have wheel locks, where is the lug key? Are all the tires the same and as ordered? (Some performance tires have several different speed ratings and associated cost levels. Check the specific numbers on each tire.)
vi. What is the proper air pressure?
vii. What is the tire warranty and where is it? The tires should show no signs of wear, and should be properly inflated. Tires should be scuff-free.
viii. Are the hubcaps properly affixed?


p. Interior: Is the interior in perfect shape? Carpet, headliner, seats should have no tears, stains, or damage. Get in the car (both the front and back seats) and keep your eyes peeled for problems. Try out any device that will move, bend, turn, be pushed, or pulled. Do all the seatbelts work? Are the floor mats you ordered in the car?
q. Look in the glove box. Does it open properly? Is the owner's manual included? Does it lock?
r. Lighting and Signals.
i. Know where the light switches are, and how they work.
ii. Where is the fuse box?
iii. Check the operation of all the lighting systems:

1. Headlights (low and high beams),
2. Tail lights,
3. Emergency flashers,
4. Brake lights,
5. Backing lights,
6. Trunk light,
7. Hood light,
8. Interior lights (map lights, dome lights, glove box, reading lights, running board lights).
9. Does the vehicle have automatic shutoff? Is it for the headlights only?
10. How long does the dome light stay on after unlocking and locking the door? Can you dim interior lights. What about the dashboard lights? Is the ignition switch lighted? Daytime running lights?
11. Check left and right turn signals (front and back -- you'll need a helper) proper operation, and switch positions.

s. Windows, Sunroofs and Mirrors:
i. Make sure there are no defects (chips, cracks).
ii. Are the options installed and how they working? (Options may include rear defogger, wiper and tinting.)
iii. Proper open and close operation tested on each window.
iv. Control device operation and location - power window controls, rapid down operation? Wipers, controls, delay systems, rear window?


t. Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning:
i. Do you understand all the controls and features of the climate control operations and control panel? Are there special defoggers?
ii. Special filters?
iii. Multi level systems?
iv. Front and rear controls?
v. Temperature settings and automatic controls? Duct operation? Fan controls?


u. Sound System:
i. Do you understand how everything operates?
ii. Adjust the controls and get sound out of each speaker. Does it sound correct to your ear? Try a cassette and CD (bring one with you).
iii. How do special features, such as equalizers, amplifiers, and trunk mounted CD tower work?


v. Do you understand operations and precautions with the safety features, such as seat belts and air bags? Do you know where each is located? What about cellular phone and navigation systems operation?
w. Seats:
i. Do you know how to work the seat position controls and where they are located?
ii. Does the lumbar work? Note the steering wheel positioning, tilt, telescope, lock, horn, and cruise control.
iii. Examine the dashboard gauges and warning indicators -- turn the key one click and see what warning lights you get. Are these correct?


4. Make sure the car is complete. The spare tire, tire-changing equipment, owner's manual, plus any unusual items that may standard equipment - like a first-aid kit or floor mats - should of course, be on board. Then be sure the car has any optional equipment that you paid for - premium or alloy wheels or a trunk-mounted CD changer, as examples. No reputable dealer would try to cheat you out of these things. But should any be missing, he'll go to more trouble to get them quickly if you refuse to take delivery of an incomplete vehicle.

a. All season floor mats.
b. Mud guards.
c. Wheel locks.
d. Two black keys w/ two key fobs.
e. One grey valet key.
f. Front black-plastic license plate holder; if dealer installed, get the two plastic plugs that were on the front bumper.
g. Front & rear carpeted floor mats.
h. Touch-up paint bottle; varies by dealer.
i. Key chain?

5. Take a final test drive. You may have already test driven the car, but this time be on the lookout for any malfunctions. The dealership still owns the vehicle, so expect the salesperson to accompany you. But ask him or her to can the chatter; you'll need to concentrate - and listen - as you put the truck through its paces. Be sure to take it on the highway, not just around the block.

a. Listen carefully to engine idle. Does it sound okay?
b. Look at the tailpipe. Any abnormal smoke or color? Moisture?
c. Brakes: Do you like the feel of the brake pedal (even and smooth)? How does the parking brake work? Does your foot have to be on the brake to shift out of park?
d. When you put the vehicle into gear, does it sound okay? Do the shift indicators line up with the proper gear that you are in (i.e. the indicator reads R when in reverse)?
e. Noise Check. Turn the radio off and use your senses. Drive over various road conditions and speeds that you know you will be frequenting. Listen for the Buzz Squeaks and Rattles (BSR) -- no tweet, tweet, tweet from the tailgate allowed. Also note NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) -- no loud thuds, or strange shaking between 50-55 MPH allowed.
f. Watch the gauges. Do they move and register properly? (Gauges include the odometer, speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, and coolant temperature.)
g. Run the air conditioning and heating. Do they appear to work properly?
h. Check the vehicles acceleration and braking for proper operation.
i. Accelerate to highway speeds and note any squeaks and rattles, and if the brakes or steering pull to one side.
j. Check the cruise control for proper operation.
k. Check the vehicle's handling: Can it turn a tight U-turn? Does it make any strange noises? Make right and left turns. Does the steering respond properly?

6. Get checked out. Part of the salesperson's job is to acquaint you with your new car's features and how each one operates. It's also an opportunity to be sure that each feature operates properly. Be sure you understand the heating/ventilation system, the audio system and the remote locking/security system; these can be fiendishly complex on many new upscale cars. Again, the salesperson is more likely to give you his or her undivided attention before, rather than after, the sale is final.

a. Demo the jack and explain use of the spare

7. Meet the service department. The service department will be your point of contact with the dealership once you've bought the car. Have the salesperson introduce you to the service manager. Ask about when you're expected to bring the car in for its first inspection, or any technical questions you may have - about fuel requirements, for instance. And ask the manager to show you around the engine bay, and to point out where you check the various fluid and oil levels.

a. Ask the dealer personnel if any repairs or alterations have been made to the vehicle? (Accidents happen, even to new vehicles being delivered. An honest dealership will tell you, but you often have to ask.)

8. Read the paperwork! Don't take anybody's word for anything. Make sure all the blanks in the contract are filled in. Make sure you're paying what you agreed to pay in your earlier negotiations. And make sure you're not paying for anything you didn't agree to buy. Once you're certain both the car and the paperwork are in order, you're ready to sign the contracts and drive away.

a. Does the VIN match what you agreed to purchase?
b. Temporary tags.
c. Loan documents.
d. Bill of sale.
e. Warranty overview
f. Do you have a business card for each of the dealership personnel you've worked with?
g. Does your vehicle have a 24-hour roadside assistance program? What does it entail?
h. The owner's manuals w/ DVD-A demo disc. (Owner, Nav, XM)
i. Navi code and radio codes.
for the lazy...or who skipped over the link
Old 11-04-2010, 08:45 AM
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Damn dude! Why you stealin' my thunder?!?!?
Old 11-04-2010, 08:47 AM
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From a S2k please hold out for a 6MT or a Type S
Old 11-04-2010, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pkarandi
Damn dude! Why you stealin' my thunder?!?!?
LOL cuz i skipped over the link...I was like wtf he had some great info but didnt provide the link!!!!
Old 11-04-2010, 09:16 AM
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Hahaha! Yeah - I hear you. I wish this website software would underline links fulltime, rather than just underline them after you move your mouse over it. Why would you move your mouse over some text unless you already knew it was a link?
Old 11-04-2010, 03:47 PM
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holy cow!! THANK YOU FOR THAT LIST!!!!!

you guys are great!!!!

i cant hold off anymore for a 6spd.. i returned my rental that the insurance paid for yesterday so ive been taking the bus to work.. it sucks!!!
Old 11-04-2010, 07:25 PM
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gotta get the 6spd!!! man u will regret it
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Quick Reply: I might buy one on Saturday.. have a few questions



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