HID fog lights with OEM switch setup
#1
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
HID fog lights with OEM switch setup
I have been trying to find a way to install HID fogs with the oem switch fully functional and can be turned on while high beams, or independently by itself even with parking lights. Only thing i find is that it cannot be done and maybe a few people have done it. And to the people who have done it i never came across a DIY on how to do it either. Anyways, I got the chance to take it on myself today and have successfully installed it today, fully functional using the OEM switch. This is done on a 07 type s. When i get the chance i'll try to come up with a DIY schematic drawing type and those who are interested can attempt it themselves using the diagram.
#7
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
hey guys, sorry been out of town to norcal. drop by in irvine last night, but will be home tonight to try to post up how how to get the fog lights going with the oem switch.
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#8
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
Okay guys,
Finally sorry for lagging if you guys were waiting but here is my diagram that i whipped up. This is to obtain the oem fog light with a hid harness or customer harness. I tried to implement as much stuff as i can on the drawing so hopefully it helps. I had no issues with this, had it running 6 hours straight while i was on vacation this weekend and no problems with the fogs at all!. This will let you use your fog lights when your key is on the "ON" position. So as long as the key is on the "ON" position. Your fog lighst will be able to come on with Parking Lights, Headlights, High beams, etc.
Quick splice connector used to connect pin 5 and line "B" together.
Sample image of a "add a line/fuse/circuit" original 30amp of the windshield fuse goes closes to the metal connector and 10 amp goes to the line part of it.
The molex connector of the combination light switch that connects to the combination control unit. you can see pin 5 hole is a little big because i was trying to remove the pin. I just used a very small flat head to remove the pin.
Sample image of pin 5 (blue/white) wire disconnected.
Heat shrink or tape the metal part and use the quick splice on the wire part of it to save the metal part in case you want to put it back to original.
Before you start all this of course unplug your battery!. I am not responsible for any mistakes, i have describe it as much as i can possible, if you have any questions please ask before you attempt it. I am always willing to answer. But as the picture above, point A and B is the two wires that goes through the fire wall. "A" goes straight to a "add a fuse" line i used a 10 fuse and the original 30 fuse which was for the windshield wiper motor. As for the fog light switch run line "B" up the steering column and then remove the molex plug that connects to the combination control switch unit and then from there remove pin 5 (blue/white) as you see on the picture of how the connector looks like. I decided to remove the pin instead of cutting it is because my car is still under warranty and i don't like destroying oem harnesses, so i heat shrink the metal pin and just used a "quick splice" connector and connected line "B" directly to Line "5" of the connector. After you removed the pin and use the quick spice to connect line "B" and pin "5" together. Plug the molex back into the combination control unit. To be sure that it is working right, use a DMM check to see if pin 5 is grounded when the fog light switch is on verifying it is ground.
This is my first sort of DIY so bare with me, just trying to share fellow members....
Do it at your own risk, i take no responsibilities, please ask questions if need help.
Just fogs on
Fogs and Headlights
Fogs, headlights, highbeam
Finally sorry for lagging if you guys were waiting but here is my diagram that i whipped up. This is to obtain the oem fog light with a hid harness or customer harness. I tried to implement as much stuff as i can on the drawing so hopefully it helps. I had no issues with this, had it running 6 hours straight while i was on vacation this weekend and no problems with the fogs at all!. This will let you use your fog lights when your key is on the "ON" position. So as long as the key is on the "ON" position. Your fog lighst will be able to come on with Parking Lights, Headlights, High beams, etc.
Quick splice connector used to connect pin 5 and line "B" together.
Sample image of a "add a line/fuse/circuit" original 30amp of the windshield fuse goes closes to the metal connector and 10 amp goes to the line part of it.
The molex connector of the combination light switch that connects to the combination control unit. you can see pin 5 hole is a little big because i was trying to remove the pin. I just used a very small flat head to remove the pin.
Sample image of pin 5 (blue/white) wire disconnected.
Heat shrink or tape the metal part and use the quick splice on the wire part of it to save the metal part in case you want to put it back to original.
Before you start all this of course unplug your battery!. I am not responsible for any mistakes, i have describe it as much as i can possible, if you have any questions please ask before you attempt it. I am always willing to answer. But as the picture above, point A and B is the two wires that goes through the fire wall. "A" goes straight to a "add a fuse" line i used a 10 fuse and the original 30 fuse which was for the windshield wiper motor. As for the fog light switch run line "B" up the steering column and then remove the molex plug that connects to the combination control switch unit and then from there remove pin 5 (blue/white) as you see on the picture of how the connector looks like. I decided to remove the pin instead of cutting it is because my car is still under warranty and i don't like destroying oem harnesses, so i heat shrink the metal pin and just used a "quick splice" connector and connected line "B" directly to Line "5" of the connector. After you removed the pin and use the quick spice to connect line "B" and pin "5" together. Plug the molex back into the combination control unit. To be sure that it is working right, use a DMM check to see if pin 5 is grounded when the fog light switch is on verifying it is ground.
This is my first sort of DIY so bare with me, just trying to share fellow members....
Do it at your own risk, i take no responsibilities, please ask questions if need help.
Just fogs on
Fogs and Headlights
Fogs, headlights, highbeam
Last edited by Guidanc3; 10-14-2009 at 12:31 AM. Reason: addition pictures
#11
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
pin "5" of the switch is ground so you can connect that to 86 or 85 of the relay but you would have to find a power source for the "trigger" of the relay which i used 85 for the power source and 86 to ground, they can be switch around. It won't work if you ground 85 and ground 86. by my diagram you can connect 85 to wiper motor, parking lights constant wire, headlights, etc, its just basically i guess you can say gives power to the relay but pin 5 is just completing the circuit connecting it to ground.
#12
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
I used a 07-08 service manual for this, never been in a 04-06. Not sure if the switch is there the same or the connector the same at all? Can anyone confirm if the connection of the combination light switch is the same as the 07-08?
#17
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
Looking at that diagram you posted it looks the same, but not sure if the color of the wires are the same though. The way i tested was with a DMM. Just put one lead on the ground of the car and one lead on the pin your pulling off which would be pin 5. Then by switching the fog switch off and on, it should short out to ground. I didn't cut the end of the pin 5 wire just in case i need to take it back to dealer for some warranty work, so i just taped up the end metal contact and used the the quick spice connector and attached to the wires. hit me up if you have anymore question. glad to help.
#18
Burning Brakes
Ok, so I did the accord fog light switch mod a few years ago. The only problem is that I've pulled the fuse on my DRLs. I would like to set these up on a switch too. Since I already have my fogs set up on an independent wire harness, I just need to re-wire pin 5 to my relay and I'll have your fog light set up.
Is there anyway I can make my accord switch turn on the DRL's? I would also like them to turn off with the parking brake. I hate when I get somewhere and park, they stay on. Any ideas would be helpful. I'm going to ponder this now until I figure it out.
Is there anyway I can make my accord switch turn on the DRL's? I would also like them to turn off with the parking brake. I hate when I get somewhere and park, they stay on. Any ideas would be helpful. I'm going to ponder this now until I figure it out.
#20
OCD
iTrader: (3)
Looking at that diagram you posted it looks the same, but not sure if the color of the wires are the same though. The way i tested was with a DMM. Just put one lead on the ground of the car and one lead on the pin your pulling off which would be pin 5. Then by switching the fog switch off and on, it should short out to ground. I didn't cut the end of the pin 5 wire just in case i need to take it back to dealer for some warranty work, so i just taped up the end metal contact and used the the quick spice connector and attached to the wires. hit me up if you have anymore question. glad to help.
#21
WDP Type S
Thread Starter
555.. the combination switch harness is connected to the right switch(windshield/washer). Removed the steering column cover and you'll be able to follow the combo switch harness to it, unplug it and removed that pin 5. Just the way on the picture i had. I didn't remove the lower dash trim, only the lower steering wheel base trim. Basically that pin is my ground (86) and i got the power from my windshield wiper motor fuse in the kick panel to power up my relay(85). Then relay then triggers the power from my battery to power up both of the HID ballasts. You cannot tap it anywhere else. You'll have to leave that pin 5 wire off its connector and just run it to the relay.
#26
OCD
iTrader: (3)
555.. the combination switch harness is connected to the right switch(windshield/washer). Removed the steering column cover and you'll be able to follow the combo switch harness to it, unplug it and removed that pin 5. Just the way on the picture i had. I didn't remove the lower dash trim, only the lower steering wheel base trim. Basically that pin is my ground (86) and i got the power from my windshield wiper motor fuse in the kick panel to power up my relay(85). Then relay then triggers the power from my battery to power up both of the HID ballasts. You cannot tap it anywhere else. You'll have to leave that pin 5 wire off its connector and just run it to the relay.
Last edited by Roger555; 04-14-2010 at 06:32 PM.
#30
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
A few things to note on this DIY:
1) The Add-A-Fuse is only rated to 10A and you're inserting a 30A fuse in it.
2) Another 30A fuse between battery and relay.
Everyone needs to remember that fuses protect the wiring, not necessarily the devices. If you are going to run 30A of power through a cable, make sure it is beefy enough to handle it so it will be the fuse that blows before the wires burn.
Most quality relays and harnesses should be able to handle a 30A load, but I chose to use 20A fuses on my HIDs and they run fine. I may even try to drop to 15A at some point just to increase my "safe zone".
I would find a source other than one you chose to remove the Add-A-Fuse from that high power circuit. Since all you need is a signal to the relay, use fuse #32 ACC in the underdash box. It has power in the ON position only, independent of the lights and I believe its a 7.5A fuse.
1) The Add-A-Fuse is only rated to 10A and you're inserting a 30A fuse in it.
2) Another 30A fuse between battery and relay.
Everyone needs to remember that fuses protect the wiring, not necessarily the devices. If you are going to run 30A of power through a cable, make sure it is beefy enough to handle it so it will be the fuse that blows before the wires burn.
Most quality relays and harnesses should be able to handle a 30A load, but I chose to use 20A fuses on my HIDs and they run fine. I may even try to drop to 15A at some point just to increase my "safe zone".
I would find a source other than one you chose to remove the Add-A-Fuse from that high power circuit. Since all you need is a signal to the relay, use fuse #32 ACC in the underdash box. It has power in the ON position only, independent of the lights and I believe its a 7.5A fuse.
#32
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
I don't know what year I am looking at, but in my 06 Electrical manual it shows the relay hanging off the underhood fusebox, towards the centerline of the car. Its a small black cover. If you pop it open, there are 2 relays inside---one is the Fan Control (Drivers side) and the other is the Fog Light. The Blue/Yellow wires out of the relay are what you want.
#34
Roger, I am very interested in this and has been reading up on it for a week now..I have an 04 TL..Please let me know if you had success with using the OEM switch to turn on the DRL lights independent of the headlight or the parking lights...
I am SOOO subscribed to this thread right now..
Good luck to you..
I am SOOO subscribed to this thread right now..
Good luck to you..
#37
OCD
iTrader: (3)
Roger, I am very interested in this and has been reading up on it for a week now..I have an 04 TL..Please let me know if you had success with using the OEM switch to turn on the DRL lights independent of the headlight or the parking lights...
I am SOOO subscribed to this thread right now..
Good luck to you..
I am SOOO subscribed to this thread right now..
Good luck to you..
#38
OCD
iTrader: (3)
Ok I was getting all my printout togather and located the foglight relay then I started thinking why even go through the trouble of adding another relay why not just use the fog light relay itself? I drew thing up today I think it makes things ALOT easier all you need to do is run two wires. Anyone see any issues with this?