Haven't washed my car since fall...wash and wax or detail?
03-16-2011, 06:29 PM
#41
I'm Craig
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Anyone ever had their car "rustproofed"? I've heard of it but am not sure if it works or not.
03-16-2011, 06:32 PM
#42
[x] FWCC [x]
No idea but if anything i wouldn't mind buying like 25 cans of WD40 or 20 whatever that can is just to spray it all over my car's bottom haha
03-16-2011, 06:47 PM
#43
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My 2003 was rustproofed by the previous (original) owner every year. Bought it in Dec. 2008, haven't been back. Engine bay and door jambs are dirty, but not rusty at all *knock on wood*
It's fascinating seeing cars from ~2004-2005 with more rust than most beaters
It's fascinating seeing cars from ~2004-2005 with more rust than most beaters
03-16-2011, 07:44 PM
#44
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Rust can suck on my paint swirls. My car has been through five winters now so trying to prevent rust from forming under the car is my main concern. I personally wouldn't try to get by with just hand washing during winter. Hell the bolts for my rear A-Spec kit seized after just a year of being on. 
03-16-2011, 08:20 PM
#45
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www.autopia.org for all teh detailing info/pictures you could ask for.
www.detailedimage.com for all your supplies
03-18-2011, 03:06 AM
#48
[x] FWCC [x]
shyt i just detailed my car yesterday with some help ofcourse. Waxed the shyt out of it now the paint is extra crispy and all the nasty stains on my paint is gone! 
PS: I did spent a lot of time doing my interior
PS: I did spent a lot of time doing my interior
03-18-2011, 09:00 AM
#56
Racer
I go to a place in mountain lakes, they do a great job, and they also are always detailing this Tax Doctor that resides in my town and he owns 6 ferrari's including the enzo. not like that would have anything to do with the detailing itself but if u figure that a man who owns that many ferrari's would get his car washed done right. its only 110$.
03-19-2011, 10:32 PM
#57
www.colradodetail.com
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/my-first-attempt-detailing-my-car-796700/
here is my DYI i made last year when i did mine. Doing it right is well worth it. check it out. There are a ton of sites that have a lot of info and how to's. it is not an easy task but you really appreciate the people that do this as a real job.
here is my DYI i made last year when i did mine. Doing it right is well worth it. check it out. There are a ton of sites that have a lot of info and how to's. it is not an easy task but you really appreciate the people that do this as a real job.
03-19-2011, 10:34 PM
#58
www.colradodetail.com
Never take your car to a auto car wash...always hand wash!!!
03-21-2011, 04:55 PM
#59
[x] FWCC [x]
That's kinda hard to do when you're living in the city. I was only able to do it twice during the passed summer by grabbing a bucket of water from a hydrant at the park but Police are really phony 
...Anyways i backed up on a metal pole that i did not see in a drive way while i was popping an U-turn, now my paint cracked on 1 side of the bumper. Any ideas to what i should do now guys? I just don't want to pay to have the whole bumper redone just for a small cracked area.
...Anyways i backed up on a metal pole that i did not see in a drive way while i was popping an U-turn, now my paint cracked on 1 side of the bumper. Any ideas to what i should do now guys? I just don't want to pay to have the whole bumper redone just for a small cracked area.
03-22-2011, 07:31 AM
#62
www.colradodetail.com
If you not going to hand wash i would use a brushless carwash. Better to get the mag chloride off asap. If you have a black car like me and hate swirls then yes i would consider them important!!
03-22-2011, 03:19 PM
#64
www.colradodetail.com
Yeah when i bought mine it was bad. The last guy mush of gone through a car wash a hundred times. But with hard work and some elbow grease it looks great now! Its hard to find a tl-s in a 6speed so black is what i had to settle. but it was still worth it.
03-22-2011, 06:02 PM
#67
[x] FWCC [x]
eww no, i had a black accord before my TL and i hated it. The dust sticks so quick to the paint and it's high maintenance. I always had to keep brushing my car off after a good wash to maintain it black.
03-23-2011, 05:55 PM
#69
Detail Cars in Philly in
I detail in philly and its tough finding people who actually appriciate what I can do for their paint. Just did a black lexus es350 on saturday for $200, night and day difference
03-23-2011, 06:19 PM
#70
[x] FWCC [x]
03-26-2011, 10:46 PM
#71
Instructor
Basically, if you want to protect your paint, not damage it further or to just not screw it up in general then all I can recommend is the following.
If you're doing it yourself, RESEARCH! Don't use run of the mill sponges, don't use terry cloth towels - especially on soft/medium Acura paint - and don't wash in the sun. The dirtier your car is, the more careful you need to be, using grit guards in your buckets and one panel at a time with the 2 bucket method is your best bet after a very THOROUGH rinse. This is if you're just washing the car and protecting any wax/protection on it.
I generally agree that with the exception of bird droppings, sap and bugs on your paint, you are better off leaving the vehicle dirty and taking the time to wash it/maintain it properly yourself or with a professional than take it through an automated wash.
There are hundreds of detail shops in any metropolitan area, and the price ranges are all the same and different at the same time. The true professionals which are surprisingly few and far between, wont be cheap but they will be worthwhile.
It's sad and scary to say that almost 60+% of the corrections that I perform are repairing what another "Detailer" did. So it is imperative that you RESEARCH where you're taking your car or who is doing it respectively.
The time isn't always there for everyone to maintain their cars, so it's usually more valuable to spend the money to do it right. Up to 40% of your vehicles value rests in the cosmetic condition, factor that in to the price/value of your car and see if its worth it to you to maintain a big piece of your vehicles worth in the long run.
One last note, 6 hours isn't enough for a full, to the nines detail. I've spent up to 80 hours on a vehicle, overkill? Depends on how you look at it.
If you're doing it yourself, RESEARCH! Don't use run of the mill sponges, don't use terry cloth towels - especially on soft/medium Acura paint - and don't wash in the sun. The dirtier your car is, the more careful you need to be, using grit guards in your buckets and one panel at a time with the 2 bucket method is your best bet after a very THOROUGH rinse. This is if you're just washing the car and protecting any wax/protection on it.
I generally agree that with the exception of bird droppings, sap and bugs on your paint, you are better off leaving the vehicle dirty and taking the time to wash it/maintain it properly yourself or with a professional than take it through an automated wash.
There are hundreds of detail shops in any metropolitan area, and the price ranges are all the same and different at the same time. The true professionals which are surprisingly few and far between, wont be cheap but they will be worthwhile.
It's sad and scary to say that almost 60+% of the corrections that I perform are repairing what another "Detailer" did. So it is imperative that you RESEARCH where you're taking your car or who is doing it respectively.
The time isn't always there for everyone to maintain their cars, so it's usually more valuable to spend the money to do it right. Up to 40% of your vehicles value rests in the cosmetic condition, factor that in to the price/value of your car and see if its worth it to you to maintain a big piece of your vehicles worth in the long run.
One last note, 6 hours isn't enough for a full, to the nines detail. I've spent up to 80 hours on a vehicle, overkill? Depends on how you look at it.
03-28-2011, 07:13 PM
#72
[x] FWCC [x]
Basically, if you want to protect your paint, not damage it further or to just not screw it up in general then all I can recommend is the following.
If you're doing it yourself, RESEARCH! Don't use run of the mill sponges, don't use terry cloth towels - especially on soft/medium Acura paint - and don't wash in the sun. The dirtier your car is, the more careful you need to be, using grit guards in your buckets and one panel at a time with the 2 bucket method is your best bet after a very THOROUGH rinse. This is if you're just washing the car and protecting any wax/protection on it.
I generally agree that with the exception of bird droppings, sap and bugs on your paint, you are better off leaving the vehicle dirty and taking the time to wash it/maintain it properly yourself or with a professional than take it through an automated wash.
There are hundreds of detail shops in any metropolitan area, and the price ranges are all the same and different at the same time. The true professionals which are surprisingly few and far between, wont be cheap but they will be worthwhile.
It's sad and scary to say that almost 60+% of the corrections that I perform are repairing what another "Detailer" did. So it is imperative that you RESEARCH where you're taking your car or who is doing it respectively.
The time isn't always there for everyone to maintain their cars, so it's usually more valuable to spend the money to do it right. Up to 40% of your vehicles value rests in the cosmetic condition, factor that in to the price/value of your car and see if its worth it to you to maintain a big piece of your vehicles worth in the long run.
One last note, 6 hours isn't enough for a full, to the nines detail. I've spent up to 80 hours on a vehicle, overkill? Depends on how you look at it.
If you're doing it yourself, RESEARCH! Don't use run of the mill sponges, don't use terry cloth towels - especially on soft/medium Acura paint - and don't wash in the sun. The dirtier your car is, the more careful you need to be, using grit guards in your buckets and one panel at a time with the 2 bucket method is your best bet after a very THOROUGH rinse. This is if you're just washing the car and protecting any wax/protection on it.
I generally agree that with the exception of bird droppings, sap and bugs on your paint, you are better off leaving the vehicle dirty and taking the time to wash it/maintain it properly yourself or with a professional than take it through an automated wash.
There are hundreds of detail shops in any metropolitan area, and the price ranges are all the same and different at the same time. The true professionals which are surprisingly few and far between, wont be cheap but they will be worthwhile.
It's sad and scary to say that almost 60+% of the corrections that I perform are repairing what another "Detailer" did. So it is imperative that you RESEARCH where you're taking your car or who is doing it respectively.
The time isn't always there for everyone to maintain their cars, so it's usually more valuable to spend the money to do it right. Up to 40% of your vehicles value rests in the cosmetic condition, factor that in to the price/value of your car and see if its worth it to you to maintain a big piece of your vehicles worth in the long run.
One last note, 6 hours isn't enough for a full, to the nines detail. I've spent up to 80 hours on a vehicle, overkill? Depends on how you look at it.
...80hours detailing?? lol wth, you do baby steps or you go through it at least 15 times?
03-28-2011, 10:58 PM
#73
Instructor
Like I said, "UP TO"..
Clearly no vehicle is the same, regardless of being the same manufacturer/options/color/whatever. No two people are the same, so their habits and vehicle ownership will vary.
That particular car was a lacquer repainted 1962 Jaguar 3.8 Mark II...if you have any clue as to what is involved with lacquer paint and restorations, 80 hours is a walk in the park for the most part.
Which also leads to the understanding of "Detailing" which is not going out in the driveway, washing a car, drying it and spray waxing it. That is not a detail, it is a wash. Even a wash and wax is not truly a detail, its simply maintenance.
The real "definition" of detailing is the same, the understanding is horribly skewed. I see it in a lot of customers and people that call asking why my prices are so much higher than the guy down the street who does the same job. It isn't the same job. What I do is detailing, and if you really need any proof, check this link:
* Visual Explanation of What I'm talking about * - Click
With that said, 95% of detail shops, are high volume car washes with a quick, improper polish. I say that because 9 times out of 10, I'm fixing another detail job. Detailing is not cleaning a car, it is enhancing a car. Wash and wax is simply cleaning.
And because no vehicle is the same, the same process does NOT work for every vehicle. That's why a lot of cars get damaged when they go to the inexperienced detailer, and why you end up with swirls and holograms and burnt edges and white rubber.
Detailing is all in the details. Simple as that.
Clearly no vehicle is the same, regardless of being the same manufacturer/options/color/whatever. No two people are the same, so their habits and vehicle ownership will vary.
That particular car was a lacquer repainted 1962 Jaguar 3.8 Mark II...if you have any clue as to what is involved with lacquer paint and restorations, 80 hours is a walk in the park for the most part.
Which also leads to the understanding of "Detailing" which is not going out in the driveway, washing a car, drying it and spray waxing it. That is not a detail, it is a wash. Even a wash and wax is not truly a detail, its simply maintenance.
The real "definition" of detailing is the same, the understanding is horribly skewed. I see it in a lot of customers and people that call asking why my prices are so much higher than the guy down the street who does the same job. It isn't the same job. What I do is detailing, and if you really need any proof, check this link:
* Visual Explanation of What I'm talking about * - Click
With that said, 95% of detail shops, are high volume car washes with a quick, improper polish. I say that because 9 times out of 10, I'm fixing another detail job. Detailing is not cleaning a car, it is enhancing a car. Wash and wax is simply cleaning.
And because no vehicle is the same, the same process does NOT work for every vehicle. That's why a lot of cars get damaged when they go to the inexperienced detailer, and why you end up with swirls and holograms and burnt edges and white rubber.
Detailing is all in the details. Simple as that.
03-28-2011, 11:26 PM
#74
Suzuka Master
Like I said, "UP TO"..
Clearly no vehicle is the same, regardless of being the same manufacturer/options/color/whatever. No two people are the same, so their habits and vehicle ownership will vary.
That particular car was a lacquer repainted 1962 Jaguar 3.8 Mark II...if you have any clue as to what is involved with lacquer paint and restorations, 80 hours is a walk in the park for the most part.
Which also leads to the understanding of "Detailing" which is not going out in the driveway, washing a car, drying it and spray waxing it. That is not a detail, it is a wash. Even a wash and wax is not truly a detail, its simply maintenance.
The real "definition" of detailing is the same, the understanding is horribly skewed. I see it in a lot of customers and people that call asking why my prices are so much higher than the guy down the street who does the same job. It isn't the same job. What I do is detailing, and if you really need any proof, check this link:
* Visual Explanation of What I'm talking about * - Click
With that said, 95% of detail shops, are high volume car washes with a quick, improper polish. I say that because 9 times out of 10, I'm fixing another detail job. Detailing is not cleaning a car, it is enhancing a car. Wash and wax is simply cleaning.
And because no vehicle is the same, the same process does NOT work for every vehicle. That's why a lot of cars get damaged when they go to the inexperienced detailer, and why you end up with swirls and holograms and burnt edges and white rubber.
Detailing is all in the details. Simple as that.
Clearly no vehicle is the same, regardless of being the same manufacturer/options/color/whatever. No two people are the same, so their habits and vehicle ownership will vary.
That particular car was a lacquer repainted 1962 Jaguar 3.8 Mark II...if you have any clue as to what is involved with lacquer paint and restorations, 80 hours is a walk in the park for the most part.
Which also leads to the understanding of "Detailing" which is not going out in the driveway, washing a car, drying it and spray waxing it. That is not a detail, it is a wash. Even a wash and wax is not truly a detail, its simply maintenance.
The real "definition" of detailing is the same, the understanding is horribly skewed. I see it in a lot of customers and people that call asking why my prices are so much higher than the guy down the street who does the same job. It isn't the same job. What I do is detailing, and if you really need any proof, check this link:
* Visual Explanation of What I'm talking about * - Click
With that said, 95% of detail shops, are high volume car washes with a quick, improper polish. I say that because 9 times out of 10, I'm fixing another detail job. Detailing is not cleaning a car, it is enhancing a car. Wash and wax is simply cleaning.
And because no vehicle is the same, the same process does NOT work for every vehicle. That's why a lot of cars get damaged when they go to the inexperienced detailer, and why you end up with swirls and holograms and burnt edges and white rubber.
Detailing is all in the details. Simple as that.
03-28-2011, 11:30 PM
#75
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What he said.
03-28-2011, 11:48 PM
#76
i hope you guys that detail start with the interior first. works best for me 
i use air to blow the interior out after i vacuum it, then do balls to the wall and detail.
$100-200 detail? great price to pay for swirls and burnt paint.
to be a good detailer you really need to have love for the craft, not hobby. anyone can wash a car and dry it. my way of drying the cars is by far the best. i use air to blow the water off of the car. because as many of you may, and should know, that any time you touch the car you are putting scratches in it. doesnt matter what kind of microfiber towel you have, it just happens.
at the shop, my friend has literally, hundreds of different waxes and sealants, specific ones for different color of cars, amount of paint damage, its quite extensive. and for these people/places to charge nickels for a detail really ruins it.
http://www.carwash.com/detailing/art...iling-industry
^if anyone feels like reading a long article about the detailing industry. my friend was part of it
edit: i also think its best to detail a car before and after winter. at the least before.
to me the point of a detail is to protect the paint, not to look good. a simple wax job will make the car look good
i use air to blow the interior out after i vacuum it, then do balls to the wall and detail.$100-200 detail? great price to pay for swirls and burnt paint.
to be a good detailer you really need to have love for the craft, not hobby. anyone can wash a car and dry it. my way of drying the cars is by far the best. i use air to blow the water off of the car. because as many of you may, and should know, that any time you touch the car you are putting scratches in it. doesnt matter what kind of microfiber towel you have, it just happens.
at the shop, my friend has literally, hundreds of different waxes and sealants, specific ones for different color of cars, amount of paint damage, its quite extensive. and for these people/places to charge nickels for a detail really ruins it.
http://www.carwash.com/detailing/art...iling-industry
^if anyone feels like reading a long article about the detailing industry. my friend was part of it
edit: i also think its best to detail a car before and after winter. at the least before.
to me the point of a detail is to protect the paint, not to look good. a simple wax job will make the car look good
Last edited by greco9885; 03-28-2011 at 11:59 PM.
03-29-2011, 02:05 AM
#78
Smart, I haven't been able to detail my car since October. I've been washing it through car washes so no good for me. May be next week i will get a full detail in which it goes for about $165. They're really great at what they do including removing swirls and fine scratches, and it'll probably last me for the whole summer if probably maintained.
03-29-2011, 05:17 AM
#79
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i hope you guys that detail start with the interior first. works best for me i use air to blow the interior out after i vacuum it, then do balls to the wall and detail.
$100-200 detail? great price to pay for swirls and burnt paint.
to be a good detailer you really need to have love for the craft, not hobby. anyone can wash a car and dry it. my way of drying the cars is by far the best. i use air to blow the water off of the car. because as many of you may, and should know, that any time you touch the car you are putting scratches in it. doesnt matter what kind of microfiber towel you have, it just happens.
at the shop, my friend has literally, hundreds of different waxes and sealants, specific ones for different color of cars, amount of paint damage, its quite extensive. and for these people/places to charge nickels for a detail really ruins it.
http://www.carwash.com/detailing/art...iling-industry
^if anyone feels like reading a long article about the detailing industry. my friend was part of it
edit: i also think its best to detail a car before and after winter. at the least before.
to me the point of a detail is to protect the paint, not to look good. a simple wax job will make the car look good
i use air to blow the interior out after i vacuum it, then do balls to the wall and detail.$100-200 detail? great price to pay for swirls and burnt paint.
to be a good detailer you really need to have love for the craft, not hobby. anyone can wash a car and dry it. my way of drying the cars is by far the best. i use air to blow the water off of the car. because as many of you may, and should know, that any time you touch the car you are putting scratches in it. doesnt matter what kind of microfiber towel you have, it just happens.
at the shop, my friend has literally, hundreds of different waxes and sealants, specific ones for different color of cars, amount of paint damage, its quite extensive. and for these people/places to charge nickels for a detail really ruins it.
http://www.carwash.com/detailing/art...iling-industry
^if anyone feels like reading a long article about the detailing industry. my friend was part of it
edit: i also think its best to detail a car before and after winter. at the least before.
to me the point of a detail is to protect the paint, not to look good. a simple wax job will make the car look good
Also, after blow drying your car the majority of the way dry. Spray a little quick detailer on the surface as it adds a little lubricity to the surface and minimizes scratches when drying the rest of the vehicle. Don't do this step if you plan on polishing the paint afterwards, as the quick detailer can cause problems when polishing the paint.
If scratches were put into the paint REGARDLESS of the quality of MF towel you used, MANY MANY professional detailers (autopia.org) would be out of business as many are perfectionists... I think your theory is a little screwy.
OAKES is absolutely right.
The process I take on my soft Acura clear will be FAR different than the approach I take on Corvette or Audi SUPER hard clear... Jet Black BMW = Still gives me nightmares to this day. If you look at that paint wrong, it'll swirl up...
Last edited by stiffdogg06; 03-29-2011 at 05:19 AM.
03-29-2011, 08:06 AM
#80
Instructor
If only drying the car that way wasn't practiced by 98% of all professional detailers.
Also, after blow drying your car the majority of the way dry. Spray a little quick detailer on the surface as it adds a little lubricity to the surface and minimizes scratches when drying the rest of the vehicle. Don't do this step if you plan on polishing the paint afterwards, as the quick detailer can cause problems when polishing the paint.
If scratches were put into the paint REGARDLESS of the quality of MF towel you used, MANY MANY professional detailers (autopia.org) would be out of business as many are perfectionists... I think your theory is a little screwy.
OAKES is absolutely right.
The process I take on my soft Acura clear will be FAR different than the approach I take on Corvette or Audi SUPER hard clear... Jet Black BMW = Still gives me nightmares to this day. If you look at that paint wrong, it'll swirl up...
Also, after blow drying your car the majority of the way dry. Spray a little quick detailer on the surface as it adds a little lubricity to the surface and minimizes scratches when drying the rest of the vehicle. Don't do this step if you plan on polishing the paint afterwards, as the quick detailer can cause problems when polishing the paint.
If scratches were put into the paint REGARDLESS of the quality of MF towel you used, MANY MANY professional detailers (autopia.org) would be out of business as many are perfectionists... I think your theory is a little screwy.
OAKES is absolutely right.
The process I take on my soft Acura clear will be FAR different than the approach I take on Corvette or Audi SUPER hard clear... Jet Black BMW = Still gives me nightmares to this day. If you look at that paint wrong, it'll swirl up...
I agree with this post, also, Jet Black BMW paint gives me shudders. To this day, the most frustrating paint color to work with, I don't know how BMW managed it.