First time to the race track tonight!advice!
#43
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i have kumho spt's on mine and i can do burnouts all day long VSA or not...
well i'm not the OP and i didn't have just an intake, read. i also had a catback. A fully bolted SC TL running almost a full second faster... that's not that unbelievable of a margin. Sorry to say, but from what i've seen on the SC, not impressed at all. cool addition to the car, but not impressed.
when i raced, i was put next to an STI and yea i got beat, but it wasn't that rediculous. i trapped at 102 and he only trapped at 100. i got spanked off the line but i closed the gap surprisingly well at the end.
well i'm not the OP and i didn't have just an intake, read. i also had a catback. A fully bolted SC TL running almost a full second faster... that's not that unbelievable of a margin. Sorry to say, but from what i've seen on the SC, not impressed at all. cool addition to the car, but not impressed.
when i raced, i was put next to an STI and yea i got beat, but it wasn't that rediculous. i trapped at 102 and he only trapped at 100. i got spanked off the line but i closed the gap surprisingly well at the end.
#44
1st 3g Turbo TL-S
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i have a 6 spd.
my friend has a WDP 5AT that he does burnouts in too.
how long have you had the car? how many miles are on it? have you made sure to keep up with standard maintenance?
hit me up for that pulley... xiomaro@gmail.com
my friend has a WDP 5AT that he does burnouts in too.
how long have you had the car? how many miles are on it? have you made sure to keep up with standard maintenance?
hit me up for that pulley... xiomaro@gmail.com
#45
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i guess i dont know how to do burnouts then.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
#46
Team Owner
i guess i dont know how to do burnouts then.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
#47
Burning Brakes
By brake-torquing, you're loading up the torque converter a bit for some extra torque at launch. It's to similiar to revving the motor to a higher launch rpm like you'd do in a manual car. The key is you don't want brake torque for an extended period of time (more an a 1 second) because many late model automatics will cut power a bit when the ECU sees you pushing the brake and the gas at the same time. With my G, the power cut is approximately 20%, but as you can see from the video, it's not too huge of a deal on the street because tire spin is overly dramatic and makes the launch really slow due to all the spin (so much for the RWD launch advantage). At the strip though, I usually barely chirp a tire assuming I line up in the "groove" (ie that rubber stripe you see in the middle of the lane, the stickest part).
#48
2003 Accord Coupe V6
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Yes, turn off the VDC. A little spin isn't a bad thing as it tends to allow the engine to get into the powerband a little quicker.
By brake-torquing, you're loading up the torque converter a bit for some extra torque at launch. It's to similiar to revving the motor to a higher launch rpm like you'd do in a manual car. The key is you don't want brake torque for an extended period of time (more an a 1 second) because many late model automatics will cut power a bit when the ECU sees you pushing the brake and the gas at the same time. With my G, the power cut is approximately 20%, but as you can see from the video, it's not too huge of a deal on the street because tire spin is overly dramatic and makes the launch really slow due to all the spin (so much for the RWD launch advantage). At the strip though, I usually barely chirp a tire assuming I line up in the "groove" (ie that rubber stripe you see in the middle of the lane, the stickest part).
By brake-torquing, you're loading up the torque converter a bit for some extra torque at launch. It's to similiar to revving the motor to a higher launch rpm like you'd do in a manual car. The key is you don't want brake torque for an extended period of time (more an a 1 second) because many late model automatics will cut power a bit when the ECU sees you pushing the brake and the gas at the same time. With my G, the power cut is approximately 20%, but as you can see from the video, it's not too huge of a deal on the street because tire spin is overly dramatic and makes the launch really slow due to all the spin (so much for the RWD launch advantage). At the strip though, I usually barely chirp a tire assuming I line up in the "groove" (ie that rubber stripe you see in the middle of the lane, the stickest part).
#50
Burning Brakes
#51
1st 3g Turbo TL-S
iTrader: (5)
i guess i dont know how to do burnouts then.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
theres neutrol drop but thats the dumbest thing ever.
then theres the e brake gas it and let it go
and putting in low with the breaks on. idk
doesnt really matter not like i have slicks or anything
and yeah i emailed you man
its an 04. used to be my brothers
and yes oil change whenever needed. he never raced it he just drove it around
i on the other hand like to make it more different then an average granny car because the tls around here are usually the elderly that drive it stock... and theres only 66k miles on it.
#52
Team Owner
That's the same thing I've found. Shocking the convertor is the quickest way off the line unless traction is an issue.
#54
Team Owner
Don't touch the gas pedal, just have your right foot right there ready to go. When the second yellow lights, let off the brake (with your left) and stomp the gas. This will momentarily increase the torque as the convertor flashes.
#55
Hey i've been lurking for awhile....
I love GN'S I had a white 86 back in the day, Ummm you can still see rubber I put down with that car.. Wow,,, my dad was mad as hell,,, Cause I smoked the darn neighborhood up LMAO
sorry to hi-jack
That burn out is legend in my town
I love GN'S I had a white 86 back in the day, Ummm you can still see rubber I put down with that car.. Wow,,, my dad was mad as hell,,, Cause I smoked the darn neighborhood up LMAO
sorry to hi-jack
That burn out is legend in my town
#57
Team Owner
Hey i've been lurking for awhile....
I love GN'S I had a white 86 back in the day, Ummm you can still see rubber I put down with that car.. Wow,,, my dad was mad as hell,,, Cause I smoked the darn neighborhood up LMAO
sorry to hi-jack
That burn out is legend in my town
I love GN'S I had a white 86 back in the day, Ummm you can still see rubber I put down with that car.. Wow,,, my dad was mad as hell,,, Cause I smoked the darn neighborhood up LMAO
sorry to hi-jack
That burn out is legend in my town
#58
Burning Brakes
If you were only 2.6 60' foots doing it that way then you've got to try my method. Even doing the method you described should still land 2.3 60 foots assuming you're not spinning. When you were at the strip, did you have any red lights? I'm almost wondering if you were crawling just enough to trip the red light, momentarily delayed, and then mashed the gas. Just that fraction second delay will absolutely kill your time since the clock starts the second you break the beam.
#59
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If you were only 2.6 60' foots doing it that way then you've got to try my method. Even doing the method you described should still land 2.3 60 foots assuming you're not spinning. When you were at the strip, did you have any red lights? I'm almost wondering if you were crawling just enough to trip the red light, momentarily delayed, and then mashed the gas. Just that fraction second delay will absolutely kill your time since the clock starts the second you break the beam.
i dont believe so.
my first time i didnt have nayone tell me when to go so i didnt know when to and went at the green light which gave me a like second of reaction time hah.
but no i dont think i over crossed it.
i was going to wait until i get my full exhaust combo but i really want to get the basics down or figure out whatim doing wrong before i go with aftermarket parts in my car
#60
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Burning Brakes
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http://www.dragtimes.com/Acura-TL-Timeslip-7284.html
accord to this i should be getting mid high 14s to low 15s
accord to this i should be getting mid high 14s to low 15s
#70
Burning Brakes
Also, what I have found really odd about the 3rd gen TL 5AT is how much slower, on average, it is when compared to the tests done by the mags when the car first came out. Most every mag got 14.8s@94mph out of the 5AT 3g TLs which was very close to the numbers generated by the 2g TLS/CLS 5AT. However, on this site and from what I've witnessed at the strip, the 3g TL 5AT tends to be in the 15.1-15.3@92ish range on average with some going a few tenths faster and some going a few tenths slower. Granted, the mags correct ET/MPH to sea level conditons, but still, I would have expected the TLs to be matching mag numbers fairly consistently. When the 5AT G sedan came out in 02, the mags got 14.7-14.8@95mph out of them, but most everyone that takes their 1g G 5AT to the strip is in the 14.6-14.7 range, with many seeing 14.4-14.5@96mph. Is it possible that Acura gave the mags ringers and wanted to show that the 3g TL 5AT was on par with the outgoing model?
#71
Don't think so, there are lots of factors but the most important thing to look at is what the manuals run in mags and in real life and simply knowing it is not possible when you look at the cars for one to be that much faster with just a 6MT, a FWD launch and 20 more whp. Since Acura's havent changed much in recent years it's pretty much all the same, there is usually around a .5 sec difference in their 5AT vs 6MT product, with almost a full second in trap to go with each tenth, give or take, best vs best.
I know a lot of you guys are track regulars so it shouldn't be hard to understand that you can run a few tenths more or less on any given day and while the car has it's limits what decides how capable it really is within those limits is the driver, not the car.
I know a lot of you guys are track regulars so it shouldn't be hard to understand that you can run a few tenths more or less on any given day and while the car has it's limits what decides how capable it really is within those limits is the driver, not the car.
#72
Burning Brakes
Don't think so, there are lots of factors but the most important thing to look at is what the manuals run in mags and in real life and simply knowing it is not possible when you look at the cars for one to be that much faster with just a 6MT, a FWD launch and 20 more whp. Since Acura's havent changed much in recent years it's pretty much all the same, there is usually around a .5 sec difference in their 5AT vs 6MT product, with almost a full second in trap to go with each tenth, give or take, best vs best.
I know a lot of you guys are track regulars so it shouldn't be hard to understand that you can run a few tenths more or less on any given day and while the car has it's limits what decides how capable it really is within those limits is the driver, not the car.
I know a lot of you guys are track regulars so it shouldn't be hard to understand that you can run a few tenths more or less on any given day and while the car has it's limits what decides how capable it really is within those limits is the driver, not the car.
I didn't realize there is a 20whp difference between the 5AT and 6MT. Jesus. The gearing is bad enough, but the ineffiency isn't doing anyone favors either. I wonder why Honda continues to build such ill-geared and inefficent autos. It's been that way for as long as I can remember. They undergear the crap out of them when it's not needed. Sometimes I think they're a bit too focused on MPG and not class leading acceleration. Obviously the bean counters know most people find the 5AT 3g acceleration plenty strong therefore why change.
#73
Team Owner
#74
Team Owner
The manuals seem to be right in line with the mags, the autos on the otherhand, measureably slower. Yes, conditions play a roll and sometimes the track is just running that day. Regardless, on average, the 3g 5ATs seem to post significantly slower ET/MPH that what the mags have done. I've always used mag numbers as sort of the perfect condition number and that there will always be a very small select few that will exceed those numbers, which almost always attributed to a negative density altitude.
I didn't realize there is a 20whp difference between the 5AT and 6MT. Jesus. The gearing is bad enough, but the ineffiency isn't doing anyone favors either. I wonder why Honda continues to build such ill-geared and inefficent autos. It's been that way for as long as I can remember. They undergear the crap out of them when it's not needed. Sometimes I think they're a bit too focused on MPG and not class leading acceleration. Obviously the bean counters know most people find the 5AT 3g acceleration plenty strong therefore why change.
I didn't realize there is a 20whp difference between the 5AT and 6MT. Jesus. The gearing is bad enough, but the ineffiency isn't doing anyone favors either. I wonder why Honda continues to build such ill-geared and inefficent autos. It's been that way for as long as I can remember. They undergear the crap out of them when it's not needed. Sometimes I think they're a bit too focused on MPG and not class leading acceleration. Obviously the bean counters know most people find the 5AT 3g acceleration plenty strong therefore why change.
I can usually beat the mag times with enough practice. However it's not likely the first time with the car at the track.
I agree with you on the poor gearing of the auto. There's no reason they couldn't have made it a close ratio 4 speed with 5th as the overdrive.
However, the TL is to most people just a way to get from point A to point B in style. It's not exactly the first thing you think of when you think dragstrip terror. This is the crowd, myself included that bought the auto. The crowd that bought the manual most likely had performance in mind so I can kind of see their reasoning but again, it's a matter of "why not" make the auto's gearing a little better.
#75
Team Owner
Also, what I have found really odd about the 3rd gen TL 5AT is how much slower, on average, it is when compared to the tests done by the mags when the car first came out. Most every mag got 14.8s@94mph out of the 5AT 3g TLs which was very close to the numbers generated by the 2g TLS/CLS 5AT. However, on this site and from what I've witnessed at the strip, the 3g TL 5AT tends to be in the 15.1-15.3@92ish range on average with some going a few tenths faster and some going a few tenths slower. Granted, the mags correct ET/MPH to sea level conditons, but still, I would have expected the TLs to be matching mag numbers fairly consistently. When the 5AT G sedan came out in 02, the mags got 14.7-14.8@95mph out of them, but most everyone that takes their 1g G 5AT to the strip is in the 14.6-14.7 range, with many seeing 14.4-14.5@96mph. Is it possible that Acura gave the mags ringers and wanted to show that the 3g TL 5AT was on par with the outgoing model?
For example, look at the one guy that could really drive on this site. He went 13.9@99 in a stock minus CAI 6mt on stock tires. You know as well as I that it takes a lot of practice.
I know I'm repeating myself but if I did not go with the car club with the track rented out for the entire day my first time and blow through a tank and a half of gas, I would've gone home on a normal 2 pass night thinking my stock GN was only capable of low 16s....seriously. With making absolutely no changes to the car, just adjusting my launch, granted there's a lot more to improve upon in a turbo car, and burnout length, staging, etc, I saw timeslips gradually falling into the 14s by the 3rd run, finally that elusive 13.98 pass somewhere around the 6th run, and 3 runs later a 13.8. Same with my first 12.98 pass. I had to fight for it all night. Turned the boost up and put drag radial on and ran a 13.9 my first pass but after about 5 passes ran my first 12.
In other words, TL people, don't just go once, make it a habit and I think we'll see many more lightly modded high 13 second 6mt TLs. The auto however is a lost cause without FI or nitrous. Though I would bet money the auto will be quite a bit quicker than the manual with a turbo due to it's ability to build boost off the line, no lifting during the pass, and the tall gearing that hurt it in NA form will likely be a positive with the massive torque of the turbo.
Am I rambling yet?
#76
Burning Brakes
^ I agree with all your statements including the statement about the hot air intake. It's an absolute 1/4 mile ET/MPH killer unless you've got a turbo (reasons I won't go into).
#77
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okay if i brake and gas to where my car doesnt move it will only go up to 2000 rpm and at 1.5 rpm it shifts to second gear giving me the slowest launch ever
if making a video will show the problems let me know.
if im the problem and not my car give me some other tips because im giving it all i got and am open to any answers and will practice
if making a video will show the problems let me know.
if im the problem and not my car give me some other tips because im giving it all i got and am open to any answers and will practice
#78
Team Owner
I suppose you're talking about pressure ratio in the turbo app.
#79
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Wow... a 2.6 60'. We've all been there before. A good 60' for a fwd vehicle on street tires is a 2.0, a 1.9 is excellent.
If you've ever found yourself in the return lane staring down a timeslip of your inadequacies here are a few pointers:
Relax: Reaction time has nothing to do with your E/T. And if this is your first time at the track it is the last thing you should be thinking about. Take your time and get the steps down. Work on launching consistently, this is the greatest determining factor of achieving a lower E/T.
Lower front tire pressure (FWD only): It will soften the sidewalls of your tires slightly and give you a larger contact patch and naturally better traction off the line. I recommend 20psi for most tires.
Feather the gas and slip the clutch: Your transmission may hate you for it if you do it on a regular basis, but a few passes here and there will not cause any major problems. Find the disengagement point and hold it there. Slowly feather the gas to the desired RPMs and hold it there. Accelerate smoothly as and ease out of the clutch a millisecond AFTER you begin to go full throttle. If you do this correctly you will get a smooth launch. The key is finding the right RPM from which to launch from.
Don't drive through the box: Avoid the water at all costs, and if you do hit it spin your tires quickly to get them dry.
Do NOT attempt to burn out: It is almost pointless when driving on street tires. They are designed to resist temperature change and will not heat up like slicks are designed to.
Keep at it: Your times will likely get better as the night goes on and you start to get the hang of it. Also the more passes you make the more the track compound that will thinly coat your tires giving you a nice sticky set of tires (provided that the track is actually prepped).
Good luck ^_^
If you've ever found yourself in the return lane staring down a timeslip of your inadequacies here are a few pointers:
Relax: Reaction time has nothing to do with your E/T. And if this is your first time at the track it is the last thing you should be thinking about. Take your time and get the steps down. Work on launching consistently, this is the greatest determining factor of achieving a lower E/T.
Lower front tire pressure (FWD only): It will soften the sidewalls of your tires slightly and give you a larger contact patch and naturally better traction off the line. I recommend 20psi for most tires.
Feather the gas and slip the clutch: Your transmission may hate you for it if you do it on a regular basis, but a few passes here and there will not cause any major problems. Find the disengagement point and hold it there. Slowly feather the gas to the desired RPMs and hold it there. Accelerate smoothly as and ease out of the clutch a millisecond AFTER you begin to go full throttle. If you do this correctly you will get a smooth launch. The key is finding the right RPM from which to launch from.
Don't drive through the box: Avoid the water at all costs, and if you do hit it spin your tires quickly to get them dry.
Do NOT attempt to burn out: It is almost pointless when driving on street tires. They are designed to resist temperature change and will not heat up like slicks are designed to.
Keep at it: Your times will likely get better as the night goes on and you start to get the hang of it. Also the more passes you make the more the track compound that will thinly coat your tires giving you a nice sticky set of tires (provided that the track is actually prepped).
Good luck ^_^
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COLD-...Q5fAccessories
do i want this?
my short ram intake obviously is not helping worth a shit but i was told my filter was good and this filter is shit?
do i want this?
my short ram intake obviously is not helping worth a shit but i was told my filter was good and this filter is shit?