I am planning to do my first oil change for my 2007 base TL with 108k miles next week and it's going to me very first oil change. I was wondering what kind of oil and oil filter I should use.

 

You're about to hear what everyone else uses.

You'll pretty much hear every brand of oil and filter. Which, ironically, puts you back in the same spot you are now.

Any 5W20 or 0W20 and filter meant for the car will work fine.

 

cruise the walmart/autozone specials!

 

Your TL does not require synthetic oil. The reason I go synthetic is for longer OCI's ( Oil change intervals), I second Justnspace. I personally don't like Fram or stp filters so I would stay away from those. For your own edification I would just go to Acura and/or a Honda dealer and buy a filter there. I get my oil filters straight from the Acura dealer and buy 3 filters at a cost of 6.18 apiece. They are $6.18 apiece and it doesn't matter whether you buy 3 or 1 at a time there's still 6.18 I just buy three because When it is oil change time I always have a filter on hand and I by a handful of Crush washers at a cost of about .40 a piece. You can choose to use the most expensive K&N, royal purple, mobile one filter's you can find which will run you roughly $12-$15 an oil filter. And while those filters are all good my car does just fine on the Honda filter. I do a lot of driving given it is all freeway, say to the tune of about 26 to 28,000 miles a year. And as far as oil at Walmart justnspace is absolutely correct. Case in point, at the local AutoZone around here mobile1 runs anywhere between 29 and $32 for a 5 quart jug walmartfor that same 5w20 5 quart jug is about 22 to 25 bucks. I don't know about you but I'm not paying 29 when I can pay 25.

 

Oh, thank God that someone finally asked this question....

 

Instead of telling you that I always use synthetic Castrol and K&N oil filters, I'm gonna be the guy that says be prepared with the right tools. Inspect your drain bolt crush washer (These can be picked up at autozone for dirt cheap). If it's not visibly deformed, you should be able to reuse it. Be sure to have at least a 12" 17mm wrench for the drain bolt itself. Factory spec torque of the plug is 29ft/lbs, but you can get away with less. Might need a filter removal tool, but it just depends on how the last person tightened it. I was able to get mine off by hand after some effort, but you never know. Also be sure to lube the seal + not overtighten it, so you don't damage/bunch up the new seal. If you use rhino ramps like me, be sure to have jacks in place as a backup. Good luck!

 

the right tools make all the difference.
"Damnit Justin...use a six point socket and not a 12 point socket"

 

Back when I got my 2001 V6 Accord I experimented with a couple of different oils and found Castrol Edge 0W-20 resulted in virtually zero oil consumption, and that's the oil I still use on my TL. Then there is the issue of the filter; the location for the filter on both my Accord and my TL is, uhhhh, less than optimal. Said another way, they are a pain in the hind parts to remove and replace. Even though I am decidedly not a fan of Fram filters, I use the "FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic Spin-On Oil Filter with Sure Grip" simply because of that "Sure Grip" feature; it makes removing the old filter a snap.

 

I'm taking notes...

 

OP.. I suggest M1EP + M1 filter. I've gotten 5 qts and a filter for as low as $17. Can't beat that.

#protip - Buy the big 5 gal jug.. that way you can put the waste oil into the jug after and just drop it off at any service / parts store without much drama.

 

Any oil filter will due long as is made for your car. Any oil will due long as it meets the viscosity and Standards as listed in your owners manual.

1 oil filter for 2 oil changes is fine. No need to change oil filter with every oil change.

Oil filter is just hand tight during installation... Firm hand tight. Check for drips by running the car. Be sure to coat the whole o ring first before installation.

Most importantly do not over tighten the oil drain plug. Just tight enough so it doesn't back off or fall off. There's no load on the plug so just enough force so it doesn't unscrew from vibration. Again just enough force so the bolt doesn't back out... tight to simi tight. It's better to be too loose than to strip the threads or worse break a chunk of the oil pan off due to over tightening. Just start the car and check for drips... Imediately after and days after. If it's dripping then it's too loose or the washer needs changing. You can always tighten the plug some more but you may not be able to correct stripped threads.

​​​​BTW aluminum is soft like butter.

 

 

But...couldn't you just torque it to spec?

Instead of tightening it to description?

 

Instead?

 

OK, here's my 2¢

I use whichever oil is on sale that month at NAPA, either Mobil1 or their own brand of synthetic which is Valvoline SynPower with NAPA's name on the package, 5W-20, with a WIX 51334 filter. No need to spend $12 to $15 for a filter. From my experience, the WIX filter seems to keep the oil cleanest longest. I prefer the filters for the 2003 TL which fit and have a larger body.
.
.

 

Honestly the factory spec of 29ft/lbs is stupid tight for something like a drain plug. It's a great way to ensure you always have to replace the crush washer, on top of risking stripping the drain bolt itself. Even back when I had my accord, I stuck with a simple hand tighten - never once backed off a bit. I'm honestly not sure why I even mentioned the factory torque rating to begin with.

That's the joke

 

do you buy your oil filters online?
if so, could you mention which vendor?

 

No. I go to my local Acura dealer. I get the Acura loyalty discount. I think it's 10percent off parts

 

OEM filter, Pennzoil high mileage oil

 

OEM filter is a piece of shit.. discuss.

 

I like to use ONE Honda filter it's blue.

as for oil mobile one synthetic.

 

I've done 42 oil changes over 280K miles on my TL, always torqueing to spec. No issues. In addition, I reuse the crush washer at least 4-5 times each. Again, no issues.

Yep, Fram Pro Synthetic (FPS3717) on Ebay. The XtraGuard (XG3717) is the same. Less than $8 shipped if you buy 6. Before you slam Fram, do your research....

 

I hit the thanks button 24 times.

 

Its like an M14 bolt. 29LB isn't tight at all.

Its there so that nobody has issues using the spec for the whole life of the car.

The pan is made from aluminum; not cheese.

In fact, there are millions of 300K mile cars out there that have had their oil pans tightened by some guy who tightens it to "whatever. tight af bro" at a quick lube place. 29LB isn't going to hurt anything.

And you're supposed to use new drain washers. They're crush washers. To be effective...you crush them. They cost 25 cents. There's no manufacturer profiting conspiracy here.

I do not think the "hand tight" recommendation is a good recommendation to give out. Someone is going to get it wrong AF and have MASSIVE problems.

Though, the OP is gone (predictably). We can say anything we want.

I use 60W20. I dont use a filter. I use an old gym sock. Though....maybe those two things are used for something not related to oil changes?

Idk. Doesn't matter.

 

kids

 

you don't even have any

 

Because I can't

 

MAJOFo you state the OEM oil filter is garbage. I would like to know why you feel that way. I mean is there some reason that it is not a good filter. I personally feel that way about Fram and STP. But the reason I feel that way is because of the Materials used to build them. paper and cardboard. I'm not sure if the OEM filter is paper and cardboard. But then again it could be. As stated in my first post, I have no problem with mobile 1 royal purple K&N as I've used them in the past. They are great filters. The way they are built in the materials used to build them are very good. But those filters are definitely boutique filters. I've heard that the Canon filter and capacity is not as good as even something like a Bosch. But they have always serve me well. Just looking for an Paracle information on why Oem filter is not a good choice.

 

OP - Arent you glad you asked the question? Also glad you clarified its YOUR first oil change and not the vehicles.

 

Kind of funny given I've read from numerous sources Fram makes Honda's OEM filters for the North American market.

The above said, I agree with you regarding the lower tier of Fram filters, junk; that said, their higher end filters with the synthetic media are among the best on the market.

 

Am I reading this correctly. It's the first oil change on this TL with 108K miles?

 

For a question that's been asked many times over, it's actually been a great discussion.

 

I did not know that Fram made the filters for the North American Market OEM wow. you learn something new

 

As with virtually all of the oil filter manufacturers, Fram makes different filters for themselves with very-VERY different sets of specs, as well as making filters to external specs for other companies. Said another way, even if you absolutely hate Fram filters (and I am certainly not a fan), some of the products they produce, regardless of whether the Fram name is on it or not, are crap, and some are very high quality.

In my case I opt to use the Fram Ultra Synthetic on my TL because A) the Sure-Grip coating on the end of the filter makes removal of the old filter a snap, and B) because of the very high quality synthetic filtration media inside.

 

The A01 filters are still made by Toki Roki aka Filtech


just find some A01's revisions of the filters and they will be good

the A02 are Fram

 

Both suck.. discuss

 

any1 know the part number on the drain plug crush washer for the OIL PAN?


:edit: looked it up here it is for anyone that needs it!!
94109-14000
Washer, Drain Plug (14MM)

 

Just go into the dealer and ask them for one - that's what I do; they never ask what car I drive. Costs around 50 cents I think.

 

no, i live 30 minutes from dealer. i got it myself anyways edited post above with it

 

Are you ordering it online? It's a 50 cent part
If so hope you ordered a whole bunch of other things lol