film on inside glass
#1
film on inside glass
I have a real problem with a film on the inside windows on my 05 TL. I've tried using "Windex" and "Invisible Glass" and there's still a film on the inside of the glass which when in the direct sun can cause a loss of visability. Anyone have ths same probem..any soulutions??
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shruhm (06-13-2024)
#5
Originally Posted by richard52
I have a real problem with a film on the inside windows on my 05 TL. I've tried using "Windex" and "Invisible Glass" and there's still a film on the inside of the glass which when in the direct sun can cause a loss of visability. Anyone have ths same probem..any soulutions??
I used to be a BIG believer in Windex for cleaning windows. Seemed to work for me. But with the newer cars, it seems that it just doesn't cut the "film". NO idea what it might be, but have started using Glass Plus wipes and a microfiber cloth and I am getting better results with that.
The "wipes" part is the presoaked "cloth" that you use and throw away (don't care much for that). Clean the glass with that and when it comes time to "dry" the glass, switch to the microfiber. I found some that were supposedly made just for glass cleaning. Can't say they work any better/worse than a "generic" microfiber cloth.
Total investment for both items is less than $10 (tub of wipes and 2 microfiber cloths).
Been pretty happy with the results and the windows finally looked clean to me.
As an aside, not sure what happened a few years ago, but it seems that the glass or the "film" changed (plastic oozings?) and it just is harder to clean off the windows. It will look pretty good until you get the sunlight on it just right and then you think how in the world can I see out of this? <g> Glad to say this combination seems to change all of that!
Tom
#6
Safety Car
Could this haze actually be glare from the dash ? Do you have this haze problem at night ? If the glass appears to have no haze at night, then glare from the dash might be your problem. Have you applied anything to the dash to make it glossy or shiney ?
#7
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Originally Posted by richard52
I have a real problem with a film on the inside windows on my 05 TL. I've tried using "Windex" and "Invisible Glass" and there's still a film on the inside of the glass which when in the direct sun can cause a loss of visability. Anyone have ths same probem..any soulutions??
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#8
I have found that 4-5 drops of dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle work great, especially when used with a clean cloth rag (no fabric softener). This works good on glass and on tint films (never use Windex type cleaner on tint films).
#9
Thanks for all you suggestions. I'm sure it's not glare from the dash. It's a real "sludge" on the surface of the glass that streaks every time I clean it. I suspect it could be some sort of discharge for the leather when the interior is hot as that's when it seems to be worse.
#10
I have the same problem in my 04 NBP/ebony. It pisses me off because the haze comes back 3 days after I clean it off. Try B&W newspaper it works, I also use a microfiber cloth and that works too.
#11
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I have the haze too. I think it is some type of a film that forms from the evaporation of the Vinylex dash protectant I use. Everytime I clean the haze it makes it way back to the windshield after a week or two - albeit not as severely.
Nip
Nip
#12
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http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1421377
The product is called Sprayway. It has no ammonia. This the best glass cleaner I have ever used! I use it everywhere.
The product is called Sprayway. It has no ammonia. This the best glass cleaner I have ever used! I use it everywhere.
#14
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The haze is from the leather. More expensive cars (such as the 1st and 2nd gen RL) have treated leather than reduces this problem.
I quote from Acura regarding the 1st generation RL:
To get rid of it, I use a soft white t-shirt on all the interior surfaces.
I quote from Acura regarding the 1st generation RL:
Oils in conventional leather tend to slowly evaporate - especially when the car is parked in the bright summer sun - causing leather to prematurely age and dry out over time or form deposits on the rear window and windshield glass when the interior cools, eventually causing a persistent and hard-to-remove "fogging" effect. The leather used in the RL is specially treated to resist this phenomenon, and reduces window fogging by 90 percent compared to conventional leather.
#16
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Invisible Glass used with newspaper like someone said above is the BEST. You will have crystal clear windows. The first time you see it in direct sunlight you will not believe how clean the windows are.
#18
Suzuka Master
What I use for this is a good quality non-plush M/F towel and Stoners ... spray the window and use the folded ( not bunched M/F) to aggitate the foam on the glass and immediatly use a folded paper towel or another non-plush lint free M/F to "polish" the glass to get it streak free.
Some more suggestions
Any quality automotive glass cleaner will do the job, no matter who labels it.
The key is a couple of things.
One is "misting the glass evenly", not shooting a stream on the glass, and then allowing this misting of the product to "dwell/set" and the chemical, (blend of alcohols) to attack and break down the film.
If necessary and I recommend this, re-mist the area of really bad film build up.
The second and very important, is the towel you use.
Never, NEVER use a towel that has been treated in the wash and drying cycle with a fabric softener!!!
Second, while micro fibers are very good, a lint free surgical or "huck/bar towel", folded into quarters is even better.
Use one folded towel to "agitate" the glass cleaner that you "misted evenly on all the glass surface and allowed to dwell/set", making sure you are agitating all the glass surface.
Then, with a second folded surgical towel, wipe the glass clean.
Why is this important?
Here is why, "even agitation", ever sand a piece of wood?
You don't "crumble up the sandpaper" do you? Don't you fold it and make sure it is stroked on the surface "evenly"?
If one does not, they create "uneveness" in the removal of the surface of the wood and it looks uneven, not good.
By folding and agitating evenly when working the glass cleaner and then with the second removal towel, you evenly remove any contaminates from the glass surface.
And then it gets interesting, for if a bit later, you notice some smearing, or areas that are not perfect, just wipe with the removal towel and they go away.
If not, you never allowed the chemicals in the glass cleaner to do it's job or follow the above instructions.
Some more suggestions
Any quality automotive glass cleaner will do the job, no matter who labels it.
The key is a couple of things.
One is "misting the glass evenly", not shooting a stream on the glass, and then allowing this misting of the product to "dwell/set" and the chemical, (blend of alcohols) to attack and break down the film.
If necessary and I recommend this, re-mist the area of really bad film build up.
The second and very important, is the towel you use.
Never, NEVER use a towel that has been treated in the wash and drying cycle with a fabric softener!!!
Second, while micro fibers are very good, a lint free surgical or "huck/bar towel", folded into quarters is even better.
Use one folded towel to "agitate" the glass cleaner that you "misted evenly on all the glass surface and allowed to dwell/set", making sure you are agitating all the glass surface.
Then, with a second folded surgical towel, wipe the glass clean.
Why is this important?
Here is why, "even agitation", ever sand a piece of wood?
You don't "crumble up the sandpaper" do you? Don't you fold it and make sure it is stroked on the surface "evenly"?
If one does not, they create "uneveness" in the removal of the surface of the wood and it looks uneven, not good.
By folding and agitating evenly when working the glass cleaner and then with the second removal towel, you evenly remove any contaminates from the glass surface.
And then it gets interesting, for if a bit later, you notice some smearing, or areas that are not perfect, just wipe with the removal towel and they go away.
If not, you never allowed the chemicals in the glass cleaner to do it's job or follow the above instructions.
#19
.:KCCO:.
I know that the vinegar works really well. 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water.
My only concern is that it may smell like vinegar for a bit and you have to be careful not to drop it on anything at all. But the acidity cuts through and cleans up a lot.
My only concern is that it may smell like vinegar for a bit and you have to be careful not to drop it on anything at all. But the acidity cuts through and cleans up a lot.
#20
Wow....this thread should be merged into the one about being "Anal". I know the film I see on my glass in bright sunlight, especially when there is a dark background like a line of trees combined with the bright sunlight.....but it will drive you crazy trying to get rid of it. I've actually taken my car out at a specific time of day, driven down the road to an area where there are pine trees....it's got to be in the late afternoon when the sun is setting behind the trees. I've never been able to remove all the streaks and film on the glass. It used to drive me crazy...but I've just learned to live with it now. I'm "cured"...of the dreaded "glass" disease. BTW...when I almost wrecked my car trying to clean the windshield one day while I was driving, was the event that cured me. It's just not worth it. Now, I drive around with streaky dirty windows and don't worry about them. I don't smoke...so my windows even when dirty aren't really that bad...it's just becomes an obsession cleaning glass...or mirrors for that matter.....my mom is still crazy doing that job.
#21
Yes, as someone mentioned before, the sludge that develops on the inside of your windows is a result of material "outgassing". That's where the adhesives and plastics in your car "vaporize" as a result of aging. Those adhesives and plastic molecules collect on the interior of the windows. They generally retain their original properties, too, so it's like trying to remove a layer of superglue. It happens in all cars. There's not much you can do except maybe try a harsher glass cleaner and it may take 3-4 applications before you can fully remove the film.
By the way, windex has ammonia which can dissolve the adhesive used in window tinting. Never use windex on tinted windows (inside or outside).
By the way, windex has ammonia which can dissolve the adhesive used in window tinting. Never use windex on tinted windows (inside or outside).
#22
Well after reading this thread, today I used a plush microfiber towel and glass cleaner w/o ammonia. Cleaned them pretty damn good. Will have to see how long it last.
#23
Originally Posted by Desert_TL
By the way, windex has ammonia which can dissolve the adhesive used in window tinting. Never use windex on tinted windows (inside or outside).
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#24
Originally Posted by ubnpast
I dont think all windex products contain ammonia, only ones that have it on the label
. Ammonia also turns the tint purple ![Why Me](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/whyme.gif)
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#25
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This fog on the windows looks like the car has been smoked in. I've had a lot of cars with leather interiors and I've NEVER seen this problem with them. What kind of crap is Acura using anyway???
#26
Originally Posted by CobraGuy
This fog on the windows looks like the car has been smoked in. I've had a lot of cars with leather interiors and I've NEVER seen this problem with them. What kind of crap is Acura using anyway???
In my industry, it's very important that we use adhesives that are "low outgassing". One of the best low outgassing epoxies is 3M 2216 Scotchweld. Unfortunately, it is $500 a pint. So unless you'd like to literally pay twice as much for your car to avoid the film on the interior of the glass, Acura will continue to use $3/pint epoxy.
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You need to treat the problem. Use a good quality vinyl protectant, like 303 on the dash and other vinyl and leather surfaces and you should dramatically reduce the outgassing.
#28
Here's a simple low-cost, low-tech solution:
What I have found to work best and easiest is to take a regular wash cloth and dampen it. Then spray some glass cleaner (yes, even cheap old Windex) on the rag and wipe about half the windshield. Before the glass dries, wipe it completely dry with a clean bath towel.
As long as the wash cloth is "wet" enough, it will lift the film. The key is to wipe the glass dry, don't let it air dry.
Also, do it in the shade when it is cool. Warm glass will dry by itself and never come clean.
One other thing, does anyone else hate cleaning the rear window besides me?
What I have found to work best and easiest is to take a regular wash cloth and dampen it. Then spray some glass cleaner (yes, even cheap old Windex) on the rag and wipe about half the windshield. Before the glass dries, wipe it completely dry with a clean bath towel.
As long as the wash cloth is "wet" enough, it will lift the film. The key is to wipe the glass dry, don't let it air dry.
Also, do it in the shade when it is cool. Warm glass will dry by itself and never come clean.
One other thing, does anyone else hate cleaning the rear window besides me?
#30
I was told a while ago that its the plastics gassing off. You know that new car smell? It is that gas that hazes the windows with the stuff that is near impossible to remove. The stuff that is easy to remove I call sweat haze that happens when you keep getting into the car and sweating with body odor. I use a natural chamois to remove without any chemicals. I purchased it at walmart and it looks like a donut.
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