Recently, the temperature has been in the 20s-30s over the past few weeks. I've had a couple of instances in the parking lot at work where my car would not even attempt to start - I mean, just clicking, no dash lights, radio, nothing. I made sure everything was turned off (radio, heat, heated seats, lights) and still nothing. I opend the car door to get out and check the battery, and noticed that the light came on. I tried to start the car again, and the dash lights came back on, but still only clicking. I closed the door, and it went dead again. This time, I opened the door, closed it and it started up. Since then, my car has gone dead on me on three other occasions (garage at home twice, once at work) and after opening the door and closing it, the car fired right up. Unfortunately, it reset my radio, clock, XM presets and trip odometer back to default.

My battery was replaced after less than a day of ownership as the dealer acknowledged having received a bad batch of batteries in some of their new cars. I have had some bad experienced with batteries in Japanese cars in the past and I believe this one is no different. I'm going to try to get into the dealer this week to get this resolved, but it is a little irritating not knowing if your 11 month-old car will start (<15000 miles). Have any of you ever experienced this?? TIA!!

 

sounds like a battery... have the dealer take a peak

 

Kelnshe,

It sounds like a poor battery connection might be your problem. With a weak connection, you can get enough current to run dash lights and so forth, but not enough to operate the starter motor. (The clicking that you hear is probably the starter solenoid moving back and forth.) When you shut the door getting back inside, I'm guessing that you jiggle the connection enough to improve the flow of current.

Possible causes: Battery terminals not tight, engine-to-body ground strap loose, loose battery cable at starter motor end, or battery cable or ground strap with an internal break (rare).

Alternatively, it could be the battery itself but I think that's less likely. Yours isn't old, and batteries generally have enough juice to start the motor or they don't. It's rare that they can switch back and forth, although an internal short can occasionally do that.

Definitely get your dealer to fix this as soon as possible. It's not just that you shouldn't have to deal with it (although that's reason enough!) It's also that it's not safe. If you're running a lot of accessories (e.g., heated seats on high, headlights, heater fan on high, etc.), you're probably pulling more current out of the battery than the alternator is putting in. Add a sudden loose battery connection, and the engine could die as a result of inadequate current to the ignition circuit.

Good luck, and let us know what they find.

Rick

 

I bought my car in June, today the battery is dead! I assume that when I take the key out and lock the doors, there is nothing left on. Any ideas? I live in Western Wisconsin, it's cold but I think a brand new car should be able to get through a few winters (like all of my previous Hondas did).

 

To the contrary, there are lots of things still on after you shut and lock your car. Juice iis still applied to all the memory chips/modules for radio and navi presets, the alarm circuit, door locks, clock, engine management memory, and lots of other little things. Sure, it's not a big drain, but over time it can deplete the battery charge. I have heard some recommend that the car be started and run for a while every two weeks.

 

Find my post with bad battery. I have third battery on my TL.

 

I had just driven 140 miles! This stinks but I'll get Acura to come out and fix it. It's disappointing.

 

Acura did have a run of bad batteries..it's not their fault. Get a new battery and you should be just fine. There are some really good batteries available that should start your car in any reasonable weather conditions. If it's below 0 regularly where you live, consider a block heater or a heated garage. Starting an engine in below 0 temperature conditions regularly is really hard on the engine.

 

I'm with RickF on this one. The fact that the problem is intermittent and can be solved (sometimes) by closing the car door is indicative of a bad connection. That coupled with the fact that you've already had a battery replacement says it's some type of loose or faulty connection.

Good luck, these can be a bugger to find.

 

Crappy batteries...

Do your self a favor and get one of those rechargeable portable batteries with jumper cable and keep it in the trunk.. No need for another car or AAA

 

Yes, it is their fault.

They are responsible for chosing vendors and for quality control.

 

John Doe.....some things are out of their control. Shit happenes.

This is a very simple fix....yes it's a hassle and troublesome, but over all it's not that much of a deal. Just like anything...upgrade to a better battery.

 

here here... The company that sells the sum of the parts is responsible. I do not care how many parts and how many vendors. They are responsible for the quality of all the parts. And I do not need to establish a close-knit relationship with the service department because of bad QA. I already have friends I do not need to know the service writers on a first name basis.

 

Put a DVOM on the battery - if you get 12.65VDC, the battery is fully charged, and you may have a bad connection, shorted wire, bad relay, bad ignition switch, etc. Don't rule out The Immobilizer (sounds like one of the PlayStation dealies).

Here is some useful info for everyone on testing a battery. A cheap hydrometer is worth the investment. Also keep ihn mind that the battery indicator can show "green" r whatever color they use, and the battery can still be shot - the "eye only displays the status charge of one cell.

C ya!

EE.

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq4.htm#charge

 

I just drove 140 miles, tried to start the car less than 2 days later (25 degree day) and the battery was dead. Acura towed the car and got me a Neon (!) to drive. The service center treated me badly (like the dead battery was my fault) and I heard that they have had some battery trouble. No outcome yet, I'll post again. BTW, the car is awesome (as long as it starts) and it started just fine when it was 10 below zero.

 

show to service center all this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/anyone-have-cool-mouse-pointers-share-106481/
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104683
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98854
And if you dig deeper you'll find much more. and kick a dealer aaasss for (The service center treated me badly (like the dead battery was my fault)).

 

UPDATE: I called the dealer, described the problem and they suggested that I bring it in. My appointment is on 2/5, so I will update this after they look at it. I told them that if it is the battery, I didn't want another Acura battery, given the fact that it will have been my third one in less than a year. I'll get a real battery from an AutoZone or Sam's Club.

 

A little too late but I have this problem as well, seems like the battery connection is EXTREMELY LOOSE and I need to periodically put it back on, and tape it down with new tape... I'm thinking about getting the dealer to secure the connection next time I bring it in for an oil change.