Don't ever complain about the price of a used TL
#41
Cars like a Yaris I would expect to be a piece of crap right off the lot. But to some people, its a warranty, low maintenance, fuel efficient vehicle. Most people don't really think about depreciation. Or the coolness/fun-to-drive factor
#43
I was down to choosing either the TL-S, GS350, and the BMW 535... The answer was easy. The TL had more goodies and was newer/less mileage for the price vs the older GS and the unequipped BMW. I guess the only regret I had was FWD vs RWD but I think I've gotten over it with the fuel savings.
#45
I've had car fever most of my life, always itching for my next ride. My TL has me happy, 2 of my friends recently picked up new civics and paid equal or more to what I paid for my 08. They are both sad to say the least.
#46
Pro
iTrader: (2)
I'll complain.
'06 white 6mt w/ nav
108,000 miles.
$14,995 and this dealer is VERY firm on their prices. I've been there before.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...15326885&Log=0
'06 white 6mt w/ nav
108,000 miles.
$14,995 and this dealer is VERY firm on their prices. I've been there before.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...15326885&Log=0
#47
8th Gear
I just sold my 2006 TL for $7k cash on Craigs List in less than one day. The guy got a great looking car that has been meticulously maintained and will run for another 80-100k with proper care and maintainence. I had no reservations selling it and wish I would have had room to keep it "just because" or to aleviate miles on my X5 or Boxster - both purchased pre-owned with miles.
I'm about to purchase an '04 w/ 150,000 for right around $4k from a family member. AND the private selling on KBB (at fair condition) is $6,905.
I feel I should look around a bit more for an '06 for $7k?!?!?
The following users liked this post:
MLantzyTL3 (04-09-2012)
#50
8th Gear
Also just looking for something to get me from point A to B without any hiccups for a few years.
#53
Three Wheelin'
I drove my 06TL new off the dealer's lot and don't regret it one bit. The price spread at the time between a new one and a used one was about $1000. New I knew the history, and could order the exactly color combo and options I wanted. New isn't such a bad deal if you keep your car a long time. If you're switching every few years, the extra bucks add up.
#54
'07 TL Type-S
I drove my 06TL new off the dealer's lot and don't regret it one bit. The price spread at the time between a new one and a used one was about $1000. New I knew the history, and could order the exactly color combo and options I wanted. New isn't such a bad deal if you keep your car a long time. If you're switching every few years, the extra bucks add up.
But to me the biggest pro is that you get to choose the color combo/options on the car and pretty much fit it to your needs. I it's worth it if you are going to pick that sort of stuff and to me that stuff is a big deal.
And as you said, you get to know the history of your car which is pretty much priceless.
#55
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Weston, Fl 33326
Age: 45
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
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Regarding skip shifting... My 01 eclipse GT was driven for 150k before the wreck and it took any gear like a champ. I would definitely agree with no power shifting or speed shifting while doing it though. Let the flywheel slow down just past the correct rpm then blip the ga back up to the correct rpm and I never had any issues.
Of course I only did this from 0-60 1st then 2nd - after the person was behind me, get into 5th after coasting...
Regarding the mpg... 55 gives me about 38 but I'm a target on the road where 65 is the speed limit. So pulse and glide between 79 And 65 along with a little bit of dwl gives me 34 on the highway. Max pressure on tires is 50 and I set them to 40... Let's you glide for longer. This on a 5AT
I have also started down shifting with the SS to keep it in DFCO. Keeping my city driving around 28. 50 I down shift to 4th... 40 to 3rd... Never into 2nd
Upshift at 2500 rpms... In 5th at 40 or 45 depending the incline.
Of course I only did this from 0-60 1st then 2nd - after the person was behind me, get into 5th after coasting...
Regarding the mpg... 55 gives me about 38 but I'm a target on the road where 65 is the speed limit. So pulse and glide between 79 And 65 along with a little bit of dwl gives me 34 on the highway. Max pressure on tires is 50 and I set them to 40... Let's you glide for longer. This on a 5AT
I have also started down shifting with the SS to keep it in DFCO. Keeping my city driving around 28. 50 I down shift to 4th... 40 to 3rd... Never into 2nd
Upshift at 2500 rpms... In 5th at 40 or 45 depending the incline.
#56
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Weston, Fl 33326
Age: 45
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
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4 Posts
^^^^^
Acceleration is 0-60 in 10 - I dot seem to push it as often as my eclipse.
There are not many cars that I feel are a challenge anymore.
I want to go against my boys 328i coupe.
Regarding the actual topic of the thread lol
I have no regrets with the cost of my TL. 04 with 72k $13k.
I had stay above 200hp and have a better mpg than the eclipse.
With being a four door to put the wife and 2 kids for long trips (instead of the expo) and being a daily driver... It's the best car. After my mom having a legend with 300k miles on it, I knew they were reliable (with maintenance)
Acceleration is 0-60 in 10 - I dot seem to push it as often as my eclipse.
There are not many cars that I feel are a challenge anymore.
I want to go against my boys 328i coupe.
Regarding the actual topic of the thread lol
I have no regrets with the cost of my TL. 04 with 72k $13k.
I had stay above 200hp and have a better mpg than the eclipse.
With being a four door to put the wife and 2 kids for long trips (instead of the expo) and being a daily driver... It's the best car. After my mom having a legend with 300k miles on it, I knew they were reliable (with maintenance)
Last edited by giggity; 04-14-2012 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Accidentally hit post on mobile device
#57
I thought the way you did before I bought my 2006 6MT TL w/navi in 2009 with 77k miles. But after how much I've spent on it and how much I'm going to spend on it (for repairs/maintenance), it's much more difficult to hold that position (still trying though!). And I didn't know about the 3rd gear issue until after I bought it (it didn't act up during the test drive). I think I still love it but I'm in the middle of some struggles with it right now, and here's my story.
Here are a few things that cost a lot (to me), and obviously most are normal maintenance items, but they're still costly and certainly not how much a Yaris would command! =)
New clutch and flywheel @ 104k $2105
Timing belt and water pump @104k $1090
New left & right axles @104k $611 (not dealer)
I've also done a lot of brake work myself (rotors, pads).
Right now it's in the shop getting one of its heads repaired. I accidentally downshifted from 2nd into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd causing piston to valve contact. I know this is operator error, but Honda's engineers should have thought of this and used valve springs with just a little bit more force. This repair will probably end up costing around $2200. I also purchased better valve springs at the cost of $289. Hopefully this will prevent this from happening again if I mis-shift.
So if they're going to do a valve adjustment on the head that's out, I might as well have the other head's valves adjusted. That's another $204.
And while they were in there, they found that my power steering pump is leaking. That's another $180 if the dealer does it, but I'm going to do it myself (parts are just $50).
Now everything would be fine and dandy when fixed, but that clutch they put in doesn't feel right (it feels way too slippery - can barely bark from a 1-2 shift). Could it be the master/slave cylinders? Who knows. The tech said that they've never seen those have problems when they're not leaking. He's going to check it out once he's done with the head.
After I get it back from the dealer, it's going straight to the transmission shop (probably Aamco). Here the thread I started on my transmission.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/difficulty-shifting-into-1st-also-need-advice-mt-transmission-rebuild-837925/#post13345235
It's 12.9 hours of labor plus parts. I guess now would be a good time to get that new 3rd gearset.
The whole reason I didn't get an E39 BMW or Mercedes was because I didn't want to deal with tons of repair bills. If I had known I was going to pour this much cash into my TL, I may not have purchased it. Now I know I'm to blame for some of my problems, but oh well.
I've been browsing Autotrader to see some what ifs.
Check out this nice 2003 Mercedes E500 for $13k.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...18286530&Log=0
Or maybe you want some more luxury? How about a 2004 S500 4-MATIC for $15k?
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...18713341&Log=0
Perhaps you want something a little more late-model. How about a 2005 E320 for $14k?
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...12587816&Log=0
Yes, they're "high-mileage" but still under 100k, and I'll bet that if I had bought cars like those back before I bought my TL, I probably would have spent less repairing/maintaining them, and they look a LOT more luxurious.
Oh, and how on earth are you averaging 30 mpg on your MT TL with "spirited" driving? I average 17.8 MPG over 6892 city/highway miles (I don't have my average speed handy). That's one thing good about the TL. I can only imagine the horrors if I had an E500 with its big V8, but man do I wish my TL had more torque.
When someone buys a new car, they don't have to deal with a lot of these high-mileage repair/maintenance bills. I might not get a Yaris, but a Camry is only a few thousand more, and we have one of those in our household (we paid $100 over invoice and invoice at the time (2005) was $16,645 according to autobuyguide.com, but $17-18k sounds closer if I recall correctly). Not a single out-of-warranty repair yet (we've had it since 2005 and now it's 2012). Only one warranty repair (water pump bearing made noise). Guess how much I have to pay when the timing belt needs to be changed. Zero dollars! It has a timing chain! =) What amazes me is that it's still on its original set of brake pads past 60k miles! My 6MT eats through brake pads like there's no tomorrow. Good thing Autozone offers a lifetime warranty on brake pads!
Don't get me wrong. I really like my TL, but it comes at a cost (to me at least). But there are days that I wonder what it would've been like had a bought that BMW 525/530/540, Mercedes E55/430/320, Lexus LS430 (the dealer let me take it home for one night and man it felt so good!), Infiniti G35x, Infiniti Q45, Honda Accord V6, or Toyota Camry V6. Those were all cars I seriously considered before choosing the TL. I even bought a 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T (it only had 44k miles!) for two months before selling it to buy the TL. I got 23 MPG (vs 17.8 on the TL), and it felt like it had a LOT more torque (loved the turbo torque, but dislike the turbo cool down period after spirited driving). Ultimately got rid of the S80 because I got obsessed with stability control (the Volvo I got didn't have it - the TL does). If my previous car had stability control, it would still be alive (I spun out on the highway because of some water).
Anyway, since I've put so much into my TL, I'm going to stick with it for the long haul. I hate to think that I made a bad choice =) but this has taught me a big lesson. All that research through Edmunds, Consumer Reports, and what-not didn't prepare me for any of this. The next time I buy a car, I will put MUCH less emphasis on perceived reliability. Man that E500 looks nice!
Here are a few things that cost a lot (to me), and obviously most are normal maintenance items, but they're still costly and certainly not how much a Yaris would command! =)
New clutch and flywheel @ 104k $2105
Timing belt and water pump @104k $1090
New left & right axles @104k $611 (not dealer)
I've also done a lot of brake work myself (rotors, pads).
Right now it's in the shop getting one of its heads repaired. I accidentally downshifted from 2nd into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd causing piston to valve contact. I know this is operator error, but Honda's engineers should have thought of this and used valve springs with just a little bit more force. This repair will probably end up costing around $2200. I also purchased better valve springs at the cost of $289. Hopefully this will prevent this from happening again if I mis-shift.
So if they're going to do a valve adjustment on the head that's out, I might as well have the other head's valves adjusted. That's another $204.
And while they were in there, they found that my power steering pump is leaking. That's another $180 if the dealer does it, but I'm going to do it myself (parts are just $50).
Now everything would be fine and dandy when fixed, but that clutch they put in doesn't feel right (it feels way too slippery - can barely bark from a 1-2 shift). Could it be the master/slave cylinders? Who knows. The tech said that they've never seen those have problems when they're not leaking. He's going to check it out once he's done with the head.
After I get it back from the dealer, it's going straight to the transmission shop (probably Aamco). Here the thread I started on my transmission.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/difficulty-shifting-into-1st-also-need-advice-mt-transmission-rebuild-837925/#post13345235
It's 12.9 hours of labor plus parts. I guess now would be a good time to get that new 3rd gearset.
The whole reason I didn't get an E39 BMW or Mercedes was because I didn't want to deal with tons of repair bills. If I had known I was going to pour this much cash into my TL, I may not have purchased it. Now I know I'm to blame for some of my problems, but oh well.
I've been browsing Autotrader to see some what ifs.
Check out this nice 2003 Mercedes E500 for $13k.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...18286530&Log=0
Or maybe you want some more luxury? How about a 2004 S500 4-MATIC for $15k?
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...18713341&Log=0
Perhaps you want something a little more late-model. How about a 2005 E320 for $14k?
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...12587816&Log=0
Yes, they're "high-mileage" but still under 100k, and I'll bet that if I had bought cars like those back before I bought my TL, I probably would have spent less repairing/maintaining them, and they look a LOT more luxurious.
Oh, and how on earth are you averaging 30 mpg on your MT TL with "spirited" driving? I average 17.8 MPG over 6892 city/highway miles (I don't have my average speed handy). That's one thing good about the TL. I can only imagine the horrors if I had an E500 with its big V8, but man do I wish my TL had more torque.
When someone buys a new car, they don't have to deal with a lot of these high-mileage repair/maintenance bills. I might not get a Yaris, but a Camry is only a few thousand more, and we have one of those in our household (we paid $100 over invoice and invoice at the time (2005) was $16,645 according to autobuyguide.com, but $17-18k sounds closer if I recall correctly). Not a single out-of-warranty repair yet (we've had it since 2005 and now it's 2012). Only one warranty repair (water pump bearing made noise). Guess how much I have to pay when the timing belt needs to be changed. Zero dollars! It has a timing chain! =) What amazes me is that it's still on its original set of brake pads past 60k miles! My 6MT eats through brake pads like there's no tomorrow. Good thing Autozone offers a lifetime warranty on brake pads!
Don't get me wrong. I really like my TL, but it comes at a cost (to me at least). But there are days that I wonder what it would've been like had a bought that BMW 525/530/540, Mercedes E55/430/320, Lexus LS430 (the dealer let me take it home for one night and man it felt so good!), Infiniti G35x, Infiniti Q45, Honda Accord V6, or Toyota Camry V6. Those were all cars I seriously considered before choosing the TL. I even bought a 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T (it only had 44k miles!) for two months before selling it to buy the TL. I got 23 MPG (vs 17.8 on the TL), and it felt like it had a LOT more torque (loved the turbo torque, but dislike the turbo cool down period after spirited driving). Ultimately got rid of the S80 because I got obsessed with stability control (the Volvo I got didn't have it - the TL does). If my previous car had stability control, it would still be alive (I spun out on the highway because of some water).
Anyway, since I've put so much into my TL, I'm going to stick with it for the long haul. I hate to think that I made a bad choice =) but this has taught me a big lesson. All that research through Edmunds, Consumer Reports, and what-not didn't prepare me for any of this. The next time I buy a car, I will put MUCH less emphasis on perceived reliability. Man that E500 looks nice!
I thought I'd share a little experience I had yesterday that made me very thankful for my car (and may help everyone else put things into perspective
). This is a semi-rant as well so pardon the novel.
I frequently hear about the high price of used TL's, especially from those shopping around. Statements such as "I just can't see paying $16,000 for a car with 60K miles on it" seem common. And without considering the alternatives you might get for $16k now a days that might be a legitimate point.
Point in case: I had to drive up to the airport yesterday to pick up my brother in law. He flew out to Denver for a job interview. My wife had driven him up using his car, a 2011 Toyota Yaris, so I figured I'd pick him up. I wanted to drive my car, especially since I installed Richie's HFPC's on Friday and was having fun with that. But with the 50 mile trip up and only having a quarter tank of gas I figured I'd take his car instead even though I knew I wouldn't have much fun with it.
That Yaris had just as many rattles as my TL ever did (before I fixed half of them) and had pretty much zero noise reduction. I couldn't hear myself think once I got on the freeway. And when you close the doors it's the sound of two pieces of sheet metal clanging against one another. And power? The less I talk about that the better. I know the Yaris isn't built to be a powerhouse but when I can't go up a hill faster than 60mph I knew something was wrong. Those gerbels we're running as hard as they could. And talk about plasticy. Be grateful for the refined interior of the TL. "But the mileage must be great!" you say?. It's rated at 29/36. My brother in law says he gets an average of 30, though most of his driving is city. Granted my TL is a manual which helps, but I get no less than an average of 30 combined and that's with 'spirited' driving. I'm not saying I'd get the same mileage with both vehicles. I think I know how to drive to maximize mileage but I doubt I'd get better than 35mpg in the Yaris.
I never really agreed with his decision to buy this car since I felt it was a waste of money. I figured he either should have bought a used reliable vehicle for less $$ or a nicer used vehicle for more $$. I'd even consider a nice new vehicle for a lot more $$. But a new economy vehicle? To me that just seems stupid.
He paid $16,500 for the Yaris while I paid $15,850 for my '06 TL with 60K miles. It sure didn't seem apples to apples IMO. I tried to consider the other issues here since he was newly married and going to school. Reliability, mileage, warranty, low maintenance, etc. Those are probably more important than performance when you're in that situation right? I keep telling myself this but it fails to convince me.
The Yaris is what it is: an economy vehichle that is (probably) very reliable and perfect for someone in my brother in law's situation. Heck, I could easily see getting one for my kid when they go to school. But for $16,000? Hell no. H to the L to the no. Maybe a used one that's 4 years old and costs $8K. Maybe.....
I'm not sure what the moral of this story is. Maybe that you don't always get what you pay for? Or maybe that a warranty and peace of mind is very expensive. Or maybe that if you're prepared, and have the ability to handle minor automotive repairs that you can save a helluva lot of $$$. Maybe all of the above.![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
![Tongue](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I frequently hear about the high price of used TL's, especially from those shopping around. Statements such as "I just can't see paying $16,000 for a car with 60K miles on it" seem common. And without considering the alternatives you might get for $16k now a days that might be a legitimate point.
Point in case: I had to drive up to the airport yesterday to pick up my brother in law. He flew out to Denver for a job interview. My wife had driven him up using his car, a 2011 Toyota Yaris, so I figured I'd pick him up. I wanted to drive my car, especially since I installed Richie's HFPC's on Friday and was having fun with that. But with the 50 mile trip up and only having a quarter tank of gas I figured I'd take his car instead even though I knew I wouldn't have much fun with it.
That Yaris had just as many rattles as my TL ever did (before I fixed half of them) and had pretty much zero noise reduction. I couldn't hear myself think once I got on the freeway. And when you close the doors it's the sound of two pieces of sheet metal clanging against one another. And power? The less I talk about that the better. I know the Yaris isn't built to be a powerhouse but when I can't go up a hill faster than 60mph I knew something was wrong. Those gerbels we're running as hard as they could. And talk about plasticy. Be grateful for the refined interior of the TL. "But the mileage must be great!" you say?. It's rated at 29/36. My brother in law says he gets an average of 30, though most of his driving is city. Granted my TL is a manual which helps, but I get no less than an average of 30 combined and that's with 'spirited' driving. I'm not saying I'd get the same mileage with both vehicles. I think I know how to drive to maximize mileage but I doubt I'd get better than 35mpg in the Yaris.
I never really agreed with his decision to buy this car since I felt it was a waste of money. I figured he either should have bought a used reliable vehicle for less $$ or a nicer used vehicle for more $$. I'd even consider a nice new vehicle for a lot more $$. But a new economy vehicle? To me that just seems stupid.
He paid $16,500 for the Yaris while I paid $15,850 for my '06 TL with 60K miles. It sure didn't seem apples to apples IMO. I tried to consider the other issues here since he was newly married and going to school. Reliability, mileage, warranty, low maintenance, etc. Those are probably more important than performance when you're in that situation right? I keep telling myself this but it fails to convince me.
The Yaris is what it is: an economy vehichle that is (probably) very reliable and perfect for someone in my brother in law's situation. Heck, I could easily see getting one for my kid when they go to school. But for $16,000? Hell no. H to the L to the no. Maybe a used one that's 4 years old and costs $8K. Maybe.....
I'm not sure what the moral of this story is. Maybe that you don't always get what you pay for? Or maybe that a warranty and peace of mind is very expensive. Or maybe that if you're prepared, and have the ability to handle minor automotive repairs that you can save a helluva lot of $$$. Maybe all of the above.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Last edited by robocam; 05-04-2012 at 03:07 AM.
#58
Racer
Personally, I'll never drive a Mercedes, as they might as well be garbage, IMO. Sounds like you just got the short end of the stick when you bought your TL. Purchasing a warranty + having a mechanic look at the car prior to buying might have saved money on this one.
As far as the heads are concerned, no sympathy from me there. Good luck with the car from here on out!
#59
I don't think I got the short end. All my repairs/maintenance are typical. I did have my Acura dealer check out the car before I bought it, and it was fine at the time. Besides, I don't believe in paying extra for "aftermarket" warranties. The last time I bought one, the company went bankrupt, (Warranty Gold) and my plan was supposedly double insured (whatever that means).
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
Personally, I'll never drive a Mercedes, as they might as well be garbage, IMO. Sounds like you just got the short end of the stick when you bought your TL. Purchasing a warranty + having a mechanic look at the car prior to buying might have saved money on this one.
As far as the heads are concerned, no sympathy from me there. Good luck with the car from here on out!
As far as the heads are concerned, no sympathy from me there. Good luck with the car from here on out!
#61
Pro
I don't think I got the short end. All my repairs/maintenance are typical. I did have my Acura dealer check out the car before I bought it, and it was fine at the time. Besides, I don't believe in paying extra for "aftermarket" warranties. The last time I bought one, the company went bankrupt, (Warranty Gold) and my plan was supposedly double insured (whatever that means).
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
For me I got an extremely high-miles 07 TL-S for about $8,000 below what a "low miles" ~70,000 version of the same year would have cost. I saw it as a gamble I was likely to win -- no matter how much crap needs done, I'm likely to come out /under/ the $8k difference. So far I needed the 105k maintenance and back break pads = $1200. I won't be freaking out until the running repair bill hits $4,000. I don't see what the big deal is.
#62
I just picked up an 04' for the wifey. I paid $9,500 and it had 104k. It's a used car and has its small issues. I can't complain though, it's a smooth car and runs well. The TL's have really impressed me, minus the infamous dash crack....
#64
Three Wheelin'
Here are a few things that cost a lot (to me), and obviously most are normal maintenance items, but they're still costly and certainly not how much a Yaris would command! =)
New clutch and flywheel @ 104k $2105
Timing belt and water pump @104k $1090
New left & right axles @104k $611 (not dealer)
I've also done a lot of brake work myself (rotors, pads).
Right now it's in the shop getting one of its heads repaired. I accidentally downshifted from 2nd into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd causing piston to valve contact. I know this is operator error, but Honda's engineers should have thought of this and used valve springs with just a little bit more force. This repair will probably end up costing around $2200. I also purchased better valve springs at the cost of $289. Hopefully this will prevent this from happening again if I mis-shift.
So if they're going to do a valve adjustment on the head that's out, I might as well have the other head's valves adjusted. That's another $204.
And while they were in there, they found that my power steering pump is leaking. That's another $180 if the dealer does it, but I'm going to do it myself (parts are just $50).
New clutch and flywheel @ 104k $2105
Timing belt and water pump @104k $1090
New left & right axles @104k $611 (not dealer)
I've also done a lot of brake work myself (rotors, pads).
Right now it's in the shop getting one of its heads repaired. I accidentally downshifted from 2nd into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd causing piston to valve contact. I know this is operator error, but Honda's engineers should have thought of this and used valve springs with just a little bit more force. This repair will probably end up costing around $2200. I also purchased better valve springs at the cost of $289. Hopefully this will prevent this from happening again if I mis-shift.
So if they're going to do a valve adjustment on the head that's out, I might as well have the other head's valves adjusted. That's another $204.
And while they were in there, they found that my power steering pump is leaking. That's another $180 if the dealer does it, but I'm going to do it myself (parts are just $50).
#65
'07 TL Type-S
Most of your issues are either normal maintenance on a car of that mileage or user error. Chances are if you had bought your Mercedes or BMW you'd be look at many of the same maintenance issues and they would be charging more for the work. Any time you buy a car pushing over 60k miles you should start asking yourself when the major services are due, how much they cost, and have they already been done. This is particularly true once you approach 100k miles. Many people who are thinking of selling choose to sell just before these major items are due to avoid the costs.
Sure that '03 Mercedes may look nice, but a car that old is bound to need maintenance, and the risk of something going wrong is increased. Just like the TL. But with a Mercedes you will be paying quite a bit more.
#66
Pretty much this. If you buy a used car with 77k miles on it, you shouldn't be surprised if it needs something done to it. Even the most reliable car require maintenance, and possibly more depending on how well the previous owner took car of it. Which is also a problem when buying a used car...
#67
Racer
I don't think I got the short end. All my repairs/maintenance are typical. I did have my Acura dealer check out the car before I bought it, and it was fine at the time. Besides, I don't believe in paying extra for "aftermarket" warranties. The last time I bought one, the company went bankrupt, (Warranty Gold) and my plan was supposedly double insured (whatever that means).
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
No sympathy? Why's that? You think it'll never happen to you? I just don't think that's a very nice thing to say especially to someone who's hurting.
As far as you damaging your car due to an unfortunate down-shift (regardless of intentional or unintentional): Sorry for your mishap.
Now leave the pity-party and rejoin the fun here at Azine!
#68
Most of your issues are either normal maintenance on a car of that mileage or user error. Chances are if you had bought your Mercedes or BMW you'd be look at many of the same maintenance issues and they would be charging more for the work. Any time you buy a car pushing over 60k miles you should start asking yourself when the major services are due, how much they cost...
I also was not expecting the $400+ valve adjustment (again, what car needs this??? other than the Prelude) and $2000+ clutch/flywheel job. But I know it's my fault for not getting the exact prices beforehand. For some reason I thought a clutch job would only cost around $800, but who knew I also needed a new flywheel. And axles failing at ~100k is ridiculous. At least my new ones from Dobbs has a lifetime warranty.
Another thing is that many of these "issues" are related to the fact that this car has a manual transmission. If I had gotten a Lexus, BMW or Mercedes, I probably would have gone with an automatic, which might be more expensive to repair, but I'm sure it would last a lot longer than ~104k miles. I would also not need valve adjustments or risk damage from over revving the engine. The axles probably will last longer, and same with the power steering pump.
If you spend the time to find the right car, you wont need to spend a penny right off the bat. Finding a good used car in today's market takes time. It took my 3 months to find a suitable used Impreza for my sister. Other than a broken interior door handle, she has not had a single issue.
I've owned a 3G 6MT TL/TL-S (traded in at 3.5 years), for 4-5 years now, without any of your issues. Furthermore, I've always purchased my cars from an Acura dealership, with Acura warranties, through Acura Financial Services. Might I also add that I now have an '07 MDX on top of it, without issues. Countless other members on here have also not experienced the issues you have. With all of your issues and "normal repairs", it naturally seems you received the short straw when you purchased it.
As far as you damaging your car due to an unfortunate down-shift (regardless of intentional or unintentional): Sorry for your mishap.
As far as you damaging your car due to an unfortunate down-shift (regardless of intentional or unintentional): Sorry for your mishap.
An MDX has an automatic transmission, so it wouldn't risk getting over revved.
I'm sure that there are many people that haven't experienced these problems, but the fact is, many have, as evidenced by the numerous posts. Why does a power steering pump with ~100k miles need to be fixed? And it's not like this is an isolated case. It seems like everyone with an Acura that uses this pump will need this repair around this mileage. The power steering pump on our 1985 Chevy is still original, and it has over 200k miles on it! I know this isn't a "big" issue, but I would have thought that a Honda part would be more reliable. And again, I know this is a small issue, and I will be happy if something worse doesn't happen.
The lesson I'm taking from this experience is that ALL cars will fall apart despite how reliable the brand might seem, so the next time I choose one, I will place far less emphasis on brand reliability perception and more on how much I like the car.
And thanks for your comment on my over rev. I'm having stiffer valve springs installed to prevent this from happening again.
And don't worry. I just needed a listening ear. I love my TL, and I will enjoy it for many years to come. I can't wait to get it back from the shop.
#69
![Annoyed](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/annoyed.gif)
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