jeeva86

I think I've noticed sometimes that when disengaging the clutch, my rpms rise about 200. Google searches show that is common because the load of the clutch is off, but I'm wondering if it could also mean that my clutch is slipping? :S

Noticed this at 3rd-4th at 3K, it would rise slowly to 3.1-3.2 when disengaging the clutch. I think my clutch is good as I can get going off a stop from 1.1-1.2K.

Tehvine

Is your foot still on / coming off the clutch when this happens? You might not be fully engaged and could be causing it to slip.

boosted2000si

iTrader: (1)

My civic does it to assist with synchronizing the gears, says the tech department. Lol. I assumed they were right because it does seem to help some.

TheDingo

Yea the RPMs will stick when shifting.

mY sLOW UA6

Can be the electronic throttle. Don't quote me I'm not quite sure.

jeeva86

Nope, foot is off throttle completely. I've read that it could be a sticky pedal. Wasn't sure. It does happen only sometimes. Does the RPM stick or rise though?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Its a feature of the car.
like one poster said, it helps with the synchros.

is there another reason, why you think your clutch is slipping?

mcmguti

iTrader: (2)

+1 It's supposed to help you shift. I noticed this a while back when I first drove the car. I didn't mind it.

ez12a

it's the fly by wire throttle. there's a certain lag when releasing the gas pedal. If you dont want it to happen release the gas a split second before you disengage the clutch.

Dont worry about clutch disk wear, as long as you disengage the clutch quickly and smoothly little to no wear is occurring. Engaging the clutch is where the wear happens.

jeeva86

Thanks y'all. I'm still trying to get this baby to be smooth 1-2-3. Do you guys shift the second you get off the throttle? I would think so because of the feature you mentioned as the RPMs don't hold for longer than 2 seconds? I *think* my shifts are smoother when I disengage the clutch about .5 sec after letting off the throttle.

Because I bought this car used and it's the only 6MT TL that I drove, I don't have much to compare to in regards to clutch slippage. I can engage the clutch from a stop within 1.2k so wouldn't this mean my clutch is still good?

Can a poor clutch be related to jerky shifts?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^fact is, this is one of the HARDEST cars to learn/drive properly.

my dad gave me a 2010 challenger srt for a month, and I learned that clutch in one day.
the TL took me over 3 weeks to get right, even now i have trouble with jerky shifts.

why didnt the TL use a conventional clutch system.......

ez12a

as long as the clutch does not slip with the pedal fully released it should be ok. no need in continuing to "test" for slip if it doesnt, you'll just create more wear lol. What you can do is try shifting into 4th a little early and basically flooring it. If it doesnt slip there dont worry about it.

in older cars jerky shifts can be caused by the dampening springs in the clutch disk popping out or getting damaged, not so in the TL (no dampening springs). It's probably just a matter of getting used to it.

Some would suggest deleting the master cylinder valve which slows clutch engagement (takes the place of dampening springs in the clutch).

IMO, unless you track your car this is not necessary. I can shift fairly smoothly day to day without the delete.

A tip, the 1-2 shift is extremely slow (take your time moving into 2nd and releasing the pedal, relatively speaking), and the shifts get progressively "quicker" from 2-6. the rpm differential from 5th is not far from 4th, and I find myself sometimes shifting too slow (i take too much time between getting into 5th and engaging it), just missing the sweet spot engagement point.

I hate cars

There's nothing I hate more than cars that are programmed to hang the throttle between gears. Let the bad drivers learn to drive a manual, don't punish the ones that do know how to drive.

jeeva86

Everyone's been saying its one of the hardest mt. Anyone know what's so different with the system?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

dual mass flywheel and hydraulic self adjusting pressure plate

acvega

I've heard it's because the slave cylinder has a check valve in it for the clutch fluid.

ez12a

dont let the difficulty discourage you.. i personally find it to be just like any other car and its just a matter of getting used to it.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I wish it were easier, tho.
picking up and mastering the SRT8 clutch in one day was awesome. No jerky shifts, passengers thought it was an automatic, etc.

with the TL, I have to use a lot of concentration just to get going. not to mention its FWD and I have to be careful of wheel spin and torque steer.

after 2nd gear, its all gravy!! very easy after that!

kirill1221

To answer ops question the car only blips the throttle for you when you are applying adequate amounts of throttle. It does this to burn off excess fuel and vapors that are in the engine already. If you baby the gas pedal, it won't do that. Thats my best answer anyways.

PS worst car to shift in.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

How about skipping 2nd when you don't need it? I shift directly into 3rd much of the time, assuming that I don't need to accelerate quickly. It's probably not a fuel efficient but I take 1st up to about 2500RPM then shift into 3rd. At the same speed, 3rd is probably about 1200-1500RPM? Dunno for sure. But it's certainly well above "lugging" it, again, assuming you're cruising and not trying to get from 0-60 in 7 seconds. When I'm taking off I always use 2nd. But it's when you're accelerating slowly that going from 1st to 2nd is difficult, not so much when you're gunning it.

kirill1221

I hope you atleast double clutch that transition from 1 to 3. Skipping gears takes a toll on your synchros.

SouthernBoy

If this were the case, you'd want them to fall during upshifts... not fall.

SouthernBoy

There are several reasons why a lot of folks have found the manual TL to be difficult in learning to operate things smoothly.

The clutch pedal travel is relatively short with an even shorter takeup. Takeup is the distance the pedal travels from initial engagement to full engagement. IN our manual TL's, this is pretty short. Initial engagement is spec'd to take place approximately 2" from the stop pad. This is rather early in the pedal's travel. Now couple this with a very short amount of travel from the point of initial engagement to the point where sufficient pressure is being applied to the friction disk to move the car and there is not much room for error. And finally, first gear is VERY short with a ratio of 3.93:1 and there is a wide ration spread from first to second (2.48:1) which tends to cause people to jerk and buck the car until they're use to things.

Hope this helps.

SouthernBoy

The manual TL does not "blip" the throttle for you. What it will do is hold engine speed at where it needs to be for the next higher gear during upshifts, if you allow it to do this.

SouthernBoy

You should avoid skip shifting as much as possible for several reasons. You have to wait longer before making the shift to allow engine speed time to fall to the proper RPM for the higher gear. If you don't, you put undue wear on your synchronizers.

"When I'm taking off I always use 2nd."
You should never do this. You have a first gear for this... use it. Never start of in second gear.

SouthernBoy

No, you don't double clutch on upshifts UNLESS you have missed time the shift and allowed engine speed to fall off too much. When skip shifting upshifts, you remove your foot from the throttle while disengaging the clutch, then wait until engine speed falls off to where it needs to be for the higher gear. Then you make the shift and release the clutch.

What most people do during skipped upshifts is to shift just like they do during a normal shift. What they don't realize is that this forces the synchronizers to work much harder to match shaft speeds.