jox51

If I have time I warm my engine in the morning but I wonder if there are any benefits to warming your engine up in the morning.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=warming

01tl4tl

NO- the book says it warms up faster by driving- getting actual temp in the engine and exhaust lets the fuel computer go off the full rich- heavy fuel use on startup- over to full lean mode - low fuel flow system- get on the low emission level system

A minute or 2 to let the oil circulate and if you can rev it to 2000 its ready to go
A/T holds 1-2 longer/higher rpm on cold, M/T trans drivers can hold 2nd a few minutes

As soon as the temp guage is up, its on lean mode, with plenty of heat to share with the heater core

When its really cold it can take 15-30 minutes freeway cruise to recharge the battery from starting and whatever load was there at start- if you left lights on- stereo etc that all comes right out of the battery, and the alternator doesnt put out enough extra amps to recharge the battery till over 1700 rpm..below that its just sustaining the car

RonJonTL757

Perhaps a friendly search is in order before posting.... and WELCOME

dudechewy

welcome....lol i have a remote start :-)

TLType-s12

iTrader: (2)

Remote Auto Start FTW ( I have no idea how it works but im glad I got it)

Ramrodthrusterpuppy

10 - 30 seconds at most even on the coldest Winter days. Just enough to get the oil pressure up to operating levels. Anything longer is a waste of fuel and needless emissions.

CrazyNurse

Yeah, I do it outta habit...

my first car was a '81 firebird--if u didn't let that v8 warmup the carb would sputter and it would just die on u.

back in those days it was pretty common to see everyones cars out in the driveway warming up in the mornings.

carlos9827

iTrader: (2)

yeah i used to warm it up for 30 seconds to 2 minutes but now that its almost 4 years old I usually just get in and go.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

I get in start the car and in about 30 seconds to a minute I'm off. I don't sit there and wait for it. I've done that in all my honda's.

SouthernBoy

Start it up and let it come back down at or close to idle (30-45 seconds), then drive it gently for about 1-2 miles. By that time, your gauge will be showing normal operating temperature and while many of the parts still have a way to go to reach normal, you're fine.

Starting the engine and letting it idle for extended periods will promote more condensation in the crankcase and the exhaust system. This contaminates engine oil and accelerates rust in the exhaust system. You want to get your engine, transmission, and the rest of the parts up to operating temperature quickly, with common sense. In other words, don't start the engine and play local drag racer.

pbcmedia

only if i forgot something in the house and ran back inside... other than that i just cruise until the temp gauge gets to the middle, then......

Babnik

If it's covered with snow, I turn on the engine and the heater, then let it run while I clean off the snow. Otherwise I drive right away, but I don't go over about 2500 rpm until the temp guage points to normal.

I hate cars

I give it enough time so that the temp guage barely registers. I leave the heater in the cold position because it will warm up twice as fast without the extra water circulating. After a minute or so I start my drive which consists of a couple miles of 25mph driving through the neighborhood. Once I hit a main street, the water temp has been stabilized for a long time.

Oil pressure and flow is established in a second or less. My reasoning for letting it warm up for a minute is to get a little heat in the pistons since piston to cylinder clearances change the most from cold to hot. I don't like to put a load on them when dead cold.

I put enough freeway miles that fuel dilution and condensation are not an issue.

Keep in mind, it takes a good 20 minutes for oil to come up to full temperature. So 15-20 minutes is the minimum run time before I do any hard acceleration.

Babnik

My last car had an automatic transmission that would not shift into the highest gear until the temperature in teh transmission reached a certain temperature. So if you went on the highway while the car was cold, you'd be at 3500 rpm. I notice the TL 5AT doesn't have that behavior.

01tl4tl

remember it takes at least 15 minutes of freeway cruise to recharge the battery from starting and extra intial loads imposed while under 1700 rpm

01tl4tl

my bike needs at least 45 minutes cruise to recharge my battery~

I hate cars

Are you sure it's not 1,700 alternator rpm instead of engine rpm?

01tl4tl

iirc engine rpm is always used in this type discussion
Very few would have the conversion to alt rpm~ which is a seperate issue of overrevving the alt when constantly running redlne rpm's (racetrack situations)

01tl4tl

the car cruises at 2000 rpm in most driving so thats putting out all the amps the battery needs
Below 1700 rpm there is enough power being made to sustain the car, above that and its kicking out amps

1iLlaV6

i wait for like 2 minutes lol.

paz840

iTrader: (2)

no, i just get in, start the engine and go

hata_61

+1, i agree with my fellow canadian. All you need is to wait for oil pressure to come up before you put a load on the engine.thats about 20 sec max.

NAiL05

Depending on weather a minute or so. When I dug my car out of snow up north about a minute with the defrost and so on on then drove off. Works pretty well. Usually on warm weather a few seconds then I am off. Texas doesnt really get cold.

erick3

never would've guessed...
good to know though, thanks all

I hate cars

Oil pressure is 1 second max. If it took 20 seconds to get pressure we would see engine failures in 10,000 miles.

JnC

iTrader: (12)

5~10 minutes, remote start FTW, even though my car is usually in the garage but its a habit that I have been accustomed to since I started driving i.e. always warm you car up before driving it.

MMsTSX

^ you run your car in your garage for 5-10 minutes?
enjoy your carbon monoxide poisoning.

we're driving modern fuel-injected cars, you all know that right?

T Ho

I've never bothered to check the TL (or any Honda V6 for that matter), but the older small block Chevy's (Gen 1) and LT1 engines (Gen 2) can take up to 45 seconds to get the top end oiling going- oil coming out of the pushrod holes. Engine age doesn't make a huge difference here, it's just how it is. I bet your 3.8 is the same.

I don't know that cam oiling takes that long on the TL, but I bet it takes longer than 1 sec.

I warm up 30 seconds or so, and off. Gentle at first, just like Southern Boy said.

JnC

iTrader: (12)

Garage door is open while the car warms up and yes we all know that the cars are fuel-injected as I said its a force of habit rather than anything else.

Will Y.

Aaauugh! I can't believe none of you mentioned it yet-- the TL is a ULEV and designed to warm up to operating temps quickly (i.e. complaints about the "rough idle" at startup)!
Start the car, let it idle for a few seconds and drive gently until the car's operating temperature is climbing to normal-- which takes about a third of a mile/less than a kilometer-- per 01tl4tl's post at the beginning of this thread.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

when i remote start in the winter... i BURN thru fuel -- yes, the cost of my warmth and a smoother running engine in the dead of winter comes at a price ... thank God gas got cheaper...

I've been remote starting for over 2 years now .. on the occasion that i DO manually start it on a cold day/night... i give it about 1 minutes, only because it takes that long for me to stop shivering

I hate cars

Nah, the 3.8L is nearly instant to the rocker arms. I've had to fire it with the valvecovers off to diagnose a problem and I wiped the oil off the rocker arms to minimize the mess when it fired up but oil started coming out of the pushrod holes nearly instantly. Some of it could possible have been oil left in the pushrods being flung off but there was no interruption to flow.

Oil pressure to the mains, rods, and cam bearings is always nearly instant in all engines. Oil to the upper end is usually just a second away. I'm sure the anti drainback valve in the filter plays a large role.

Look at most OHC engines and you'll see the cam lobes are usually sitting in a puddle of oil already so lube is instant to the most easily damaged (from lack of lube) component.

There's no way it can take 45 seconds to get oil flow to the rocker arms. There would be tons of wear in that time period. There's very little flow so it may be hard to notice.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

I warm it up about a minute...

SouthernBoy

True.

I used to have one of the original (as in genuine) American supercars of the mid 60's (SS 396/360 Chevelle - was the original owner and order the car to my specs). Whenever I would adjust the valves, I had to install oil deflector clips on my rocker arms in order to keep oil from squirting all over the place. I still have those deflector clips in my garage. And yes, it did have hydraulic lifters but we thought we could gain some RPM by altering their settings (1/4 turn down from zero lash).

Anyway, there was oil flowing just about as soon as the engine was started. As for the rate of flow to the rockers, without those deflectors in place, it would squirt out perhaps 3+ feet at idle.

IBFStyles

Just so you know the amount of CO that actually comes out of the tailpipe in a modern "fuel injected" vehicle is probably not enough to kill someone in 5 - 10 minutes in a garage. But more like upwards of an hour.

Tripnbeats

i wait one minute because thats what the cars manual says...unless its below freezing ill wait 2 mins lol

SouthernBoy

I'm about 45 seconds to one minute from starting the engine in my (open) garage to heading up my street. I take it easy (25 MPH speed limit) while traveling about one mile to an interstate, then it's three miles till I jump off to secondary roads (have to protect my paint and windshield).

Get your engine up to operating temperature quickly but gently. Ideally, you would want about a 20+ minute commute or about 10-12 miles. This is generally enough time to warm everything up, unless this time is spent in stop and go traffic. Better to take out of the way routes to help keep your engine healthy than to sit in heavy traffic for extended periods of time.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

Don't say silly things like this.

CO is measured by co-oximetry off arterial blood sampling and is measured as amount of CO per unit blood volume. If you left a healthy baby in a car seat (much smaller blood volume than an adult) you could kill that child, OR bare minimum, after 10 minutes, cause serious, irreparable neurologic damage. Adults with pre-existing respiratory/pulmonary medical problems (i.e. COPD/emphysema/bronchitis, chronic respiratory issues,etc) have lower oxygenation reserve and are therefore more prone to suffering significantly from 10 "safe" minutes of CO from your modern, fuel injected car. Oxygenation binds preferentially to red blood cells over oxygenation... but you know all this cuz you're a doc, or you googled it. Please don't argue this, as your post somehow rationalized and minimized the concern for 10 minutes of CO exposure... I'm sure you're correct that modern cars vs. older cars have less CO emissions.

I vote that the MODS erase your comment, as we don't need unsustantiated, medically unsafe kitchen-table conjecture like this on our board.

No offense at all,

chairguru22

I don't warm up too long, less than a minute.

If you think about it, the car moves on it's own when you are in Drive without applying gas/throttle. So you might as well just cruise at the low speeds out of your driveway or out of the parking lot. The engine is already moving the car whether you are in Park or Drive. By that time you should be warmed up to temp and ready to go. You will be more efficient this way.