Do I need Piston Compressor? For Brakes?
06-30-2005, 11:06 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Do I need Piston Compressor? For Brakes?
I will be installing my Hawk brake pads next weekend. Do I need the recommended Piston Compressor and pin remover? Please help.
Thanks
Thanks
06-30-2005, 12:03 PM
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Yea I have the Brembo';s that is my interest as well. I did some research and there is a Sears item that spreads the pads apart for $9.99.
But what about the Pin Removers Tool?
But what about the Pin Removers Tool?
06-30-2005, 07:07 PM
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For 6MT: Yes, a special tool is called for the the factory service manual and is probably a wise idea. I recommend consulting the factory manual to study the tool pictured before spending money on one that may not work. The tool pries against the pistons, not the pads
In the "don't try this on a car under warranty" category, I used a long screw driver and a piece of sheet metal to accomplish the same thing on an old Porsche 911. Place the sheet metal against the rotor (to protect surface) and pry the pistons (may have to work around the edge) until they are retracted. Keep an eye on the brake fluid to make sure it does't overflow. This procedure is much more complicated and takes longer than if you have the correct retract tool.
The pins can be removed with pin punches available at any tool store. The manual specifically warns against scratching the calipers, so I assume corrosion is an issue if that occurs.
In the "don't try this on a car under warranty" category, I used a long screw driver and a piece of sheet metal to accomplish the same thing on an old Porsche 911. Place the sheet metal against the rotor (to protect surface) and pry the pistons (may have to work around the edge) until they are retracted. Keep an eye on the brake fluid to make sure it does't overflow. This procedure is much more complicated and takes longer than if you have the correct retract tool.
The pins can be removed with pin punches available at any tool store. The manual specifically warns against scratching the calipers, so I assume corrosion is an issue if that occurs.
06-30-2005, 08:26 PM
#6
Piston retraction tools are usualy used on the back brakes, to turn and
push the pistons in.
The back brakes include the hand brake, which usualy has a ratchet
device built in, and you need to screw the pistons in.
For the fronts, you just push them in any old way you can, opening the bleed nipple helps make it easier, and you should not push dirty old fluid back
into the abs system.
I always open the bleed nipples, then after the job, bleed a cup of new brake
fluid through each wheel after the new pads are on.
Brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, which causes all sort of problems.
Most European cars recomend 2 year brake fluid flushes, as they can drive very fast in some places.
When doing brakes, I also clean the disk to hub, and disk to wheel surfaces, and
coat with high temp disk brake grease, to aid in heat transfer and to give a smooth matching surface. it also prevents the parts from rusting together and
needing a sledge hammer to get the disks off.
I also grease the back of the brake pads, and under the caliper piston boots
to prevent rust in there.
The grease has always worked well for me, no brake noise at all, ever.
Works a lot better than that sticky spray on stuff which makes a real mess
of everything.
I then do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one till all are tight, at 80 ft pounds.
I never have warped disks, brake noise, etc.
For most cars, you can get ate or brembo rotors on line for about $30.00, and
the very good PBR deluxe pads for about the same price.
I put them on my Passat and they were very nice, almost no dust, good bite,
long wear.
www.getcoolparts.com was a good place, no sales tax and free shipping.
Rotors and pads all around were about $250.00.
I seem to have a fair amount of front brake dust on the wheels of my
new TL....
Brett
push the pistons in.
The back brakes include the hand brake, which usualy has a ratchet
device built in, and you need to screw the pistons in.
For the fronts, you just push them in any old way you can, opening the bleed nipple helps make it easier, and you should not push dirty old fluid back
into the abs system.
I always open the bleed nipples, then after the job, bleed a cup of new brake
fluid through each wheel after the new pads are on.
Brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, which causes all sort of problems.
Most European cars recomend 2 year brake fluid flushes, as they can drive very fast in some places.
When doing brakes, I also clean the disk to hub, and disk to wheel surfaces, and
coat with high temp disk brake grease, to aid in heat transfer and to give a smooth matching surface. it also prevents the parts from rusting together and
needing a sledge hammer to get the disks off.
I also grease the back of the brake pads, and under the caliper piston boots
to prevent rust in there.
The grease has always worked well for me, no brake noise at all, ever.
Works a lot better than that sticky spray on stuff which makes a real mess
of everything.
I then do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one till all are tight, at 80 ft pounds.
I never have warped disks, brake noise, etc.
For most cars, you can get ate or brembo rotors on line for about $30.00, and
the very good PBR deluxe pads for about the same price.
I put them on my Passat and they were very nice, almost no dust, good bite,
long wear.
www.getcoolparts.com was a good place, no sales tax and free shipping.
Rotors and pads all around were about $250.00.
I seem to have a fair amount of front brake dust on the wheels of my
new TL....
Brett
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07-01-2005, 08:06 AM
#8
AZ Community Team
I've used a simple punch to push out the brake pad pins before when working on my brother's BMW M6 with fron Brembo 4 piston calipers. I also used a "C" clamp to carefully retract each piston.
I'll have to look into that Sear's tool, cause with the "C" clamp technique I had to remove the caliper from the front brake caliper hanger. Kinda awkward since you do not want to hang the caliper from the brake hose.
If that Sears tool works without removing the caliper it sounds like a good deal for $10. Otherwise if you must remove the caliper hang it with some zip-ties (or a old bra from your wife/GF
) from the steering knuckle.
If you're doing a brake job remember to get some good quality brake grease and use it a small amount on where the pads slide in the caliper and the pad pins. But remember to use it sparsely and to not get any on the rotor or pad friction material.
I'll have to look into that Sear's tool, cause with the "C" clamp technique I had to remove the caliper from the front brake caliper hanger. Kinda awkward since you do not want to hang the caliper from the brake hose.
If that Sears tool works without removing the caliper it sounds like a good deal for $10. Otherwise if you must remove the caliper hang it with some zip-ties (or a old bra from your wife/GF
) from the steering knuckle.If you're doing a brake job remember to get some good quality brake grease and use it a small amount on where the pads slide in the caliper and the pad pins. But remember to use it sparsely and to not get any on the rotor or pad friction material.
Originally Posted by coop1018
Yea I have the Brembo';s that is my interest as well. I did some research and there is a Sears item that spreads the pads apart for $9.99.
But what about the Pin Removers Tool?
But what about the Pin Removers Tool?
07-01-2005, 08:27 AM
#9
AZ Community Team
Good writeup but the rear brakes on the 3gen TL have a small brake shoe type parking brake mechanism. So there is no need to screw the caliper piston back in on the rear.
This is unlike the older Acura/Honda's that used the intgerated parking brake rear brake caliper. These were frequenlt prone to locking up with corrosion causing problems to the complicated internal parking brake mechanism. I've replaced 4 pairs of Honda/Acura rear calipers due the parking brake mechanism locking up.
Definitely agree on the brake fluid replacement, keeping moisture out of the brake system is vital to getting many years of trouble-free serive from the brakes esspecially if it has ABS where the control valves are also prone to leaking if corrosion forms on them.
This is unlike the older Acura/Honda's that used the intgerated parking brake rear brake caliper. These were frequenlt prone to locking up with corrosion causing problems to the complicated internal parking brake mechanism. I've replaced 4 pairs of Honda/Acura rear calipers due the parking brake mechanism locking up.
Definitely agree on the brake fluid replacement, keeping moisture out of the brake system is vital to getting many years of trouble-free serive from the brakes esspecially if it has ABS where the control valves are also prone to leaking if corrosion forms on them.
Originally Posted by Brettg
Piston retraction tools are usualy used on the back brakes, to turn and
push the pistons in.
The back brakes include the hand brake, which usualy has a ratchet
device built in, and you need to screw the pistons in.
For the fronts, you just push them in any old way you can, opening the bleed nipple helps make it easier, and you should not push dirty old fluid back
into the abs system.
I always open the bleed nipples, then after the job, bleed a cup of new brake
fluid through each wheel after the new pads are on.
Brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, which causes all sort of problems.
Most European cars recomend 2 year brake fluid flushes, as they can drive very fast in some places.
When doing brakes, I also clean the disk to hub, and disk to wheel surfaces, and
coat with high temp disk brake grease, to aid in heat transfer and to give a smooth matching surface. it also prevents the parts from rusting together and
needing a sledge hammer to get the disks off.
I also grease the back of the brake pads, and under the caliper piston boots
to prevent rust in there.
The grease has always worked well for me, no brake noise at all, ever.
Works a lot better than that sticky spray on stuff which makes a real mess
of everything.
I then do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one till all are tight, at 80 ft pounds.
I never have warped disks, brake noise, etc.
For most cars, you can get ate or brembo rotors on line for about $30.00, and
the very good PBR deluxe pads for about the same price.
I put them on my Passat and they were very nice, almost no dust, good bite,
long wear.
www.getcoolparts.com was a good place, no sales tax and free shipping.
Rotors and pads all around were about $250.00.
I seem to have a fair amount of front brake dust on the wheels of my
new TL....
Brett
push the pistons in.
The back brakes include the hand brake, which usualy has a ratchet
device built in, and you need to screw the pistons in.
For the fronts, you just push them in any old way you can, opening the bleed nipple helps make it easier, and you should not push dirty old fluid back
into the abs system.
I always open the bleed nipples, then after the job, bleed a cup of new brake
fluid through each wheel after the new pads are on.
Brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, which causes all sort of problems.
Most European cars recomend 2 year brake fluid flushes, as they can drive very fast in some places.
When doing brakes, I also clean the disk to hub, and disk to wheel surfaces, and
coat with high temp disk brake grease, to aid in heat transfer and to give a smooth matching surface. it also prevents the parts from rusting together and
needing a sledge hammer to get the disks off.
I also grease the back of the brake pads, and under the caliper piston boots
to prevent rust in there.
The grease has always worked well for me, no brake noise at all, ever.
Works a lot better than that sticky spray on stuff which makes a real mess
of everything.
I then do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one till all are tight, at 80 ft pounds.
I never have warped disks, brake noise, etc.
For most cars, you can get ate or brembo rotors on line for about $30.00, and
the very good PBR deluxe pads for about the same price.
I put them on my Passat and they were very nice, almost no dust, good bite,
long wear.
www.getcoolparts.com was a good place, no sales tax and free shipping.
Rotors and pads all around were about $250.00.
I seem to have a fair amount of front brake dust on the wheels of my
new TL....
Brett
07-04-2005, 07:37 PM
#11
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you dont need the tool. no dealers use the tool. i have been a tech for 7 years with toyota, infiniti and acura. and techs use either c clamps, screwdrivers or what i use a large pair of pliers. only some rear brakes use a special tool to wind them in which i have or you can even use needlenose pliers. there really is no right tool for the job because everyone has there own method.
07-04-2005, 09:19 PM
#12
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When I did the brakes on my RSX-S, I rented a tool from Autozone for $30 that was told I could return or keep for that amount, it comes in case and has many attachments which include the one for the rear brakes, sure you can "rig" a homemade tool to work with but why?...buy it and it will be one more "tool" in your collection, personally I'm waiting to do a brake job on the TL...... 
07-05-2005, 03:39 PM
#13
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I know this is a little late, but I'd thought I would post it anyways. It helped me a bunch when I had my S2000. This post is from s2ki (thanks cthree)
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123081
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123081
07-05-2005, 04:04 PM
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I agree with Brettg. You absoulutely do not want dirty brakefluid travelling back up to the master cylinder or abs system of any car. The constant heating and cooling of the brakes and the fluid results in the breakdown of it due to the fact that brake fluid is hygroscopic or in other words it absorbs water or moisture which is the result of heating and cooling.
When I change pads I clamp off my rubber brake line with a "brake clamp" not locking pliers or similar. This ensures all the fluid leaves the caliper and none goes back up the system.
Long Term effects of not regularly purging the old fluid and filling with new will simply mean corrosion and failure of certain parts in the system.
The same goes for coolant or antifreeze, it is glycol which again is hygroscopic and will degrade to glycolic acid which is highly corrosive. Add that to an engine block and an aluminum head or two and various other metals and you basically have corrosion taking place slowly overt time.
So I flush both systems every 2 years.
Unfortunately I haven't found a shop I trust to do this work on my car as i want it done.
Good luck
When I change pads I clamp off my rubber brake line with a "brake clamp" not locking pliers or similar. This ensures all the fluid leaves the caliper and none goes back up the system.
Long Term effects of not regularly purging the old fluid and filling with new will simply mean corrosion and failure of certain parts in the system.
The same goes for coolant or antifreeze, it is glycol which again is hygroscopic and will degrade to glycolic acid which is highly corrosive. Add that to an engine block and an aluminum head or two and various other metals and you basically have corrosion taking place slowly overt time.
So I flush both systems every 2 years.
Unfortunately I haven't found a shop I trust to do this work on my car as i want it done.
Good luck
07-05-2005, 04:10 PM
#15
special tools... psh, I just pushed it back in with a tire iron. On cars like the Integra, they have a cross pattern on the caliper piston. It needs to be turned/screwed back in. However, on the TLs it's just a hollow piston. It doesn't have to be turned or screwed back in with a special tool. Just push it right back in.
03-10-2006, 11:29 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
special tools... psh, I just pushed it back in with a tire iron. On cars like the Integra, they have a cross pattern on the caliper piston. It needs to be turned/screwed back in. However, on the TLs it's just a hollow piston. It doesn't have to be turned or screwed back in with a special tool. Just push it right back in.
03-10-2006, 12:32 PM
#17
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by nick04tl
you dont need the tool. no dealers use the tool. i have been a tech for 7 years with toyota, infiniti and acura. and techs use either c clamps, screwdrivers or what i use a large pair of pliers. only some rear brakes use a special tool to wind them in which i have or you can even use needlenose pliers. there really is no right tool for the job because everyone has there own method.
ive noticed the exact same thing. the only tech ive ever worked with who used the actual tool for the job was a guy who just wanted to own every possible tool out there. they are helpful for some VW's though...
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