DIY: A-Spec Body Kit Installation 3G Garage #E-002
03-06-2007, 04:10 PM
#41
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I placed the car on jacks in order to drill the necessary holes to install the front lip. The added height made the drilling process very easy.
If you are able to drill the holes without a need to lift the car, then no, you don't need jacks. Otherwise, it is recommended.
If you are able to drill the holes without a need to lift the car, then no, you don't need jacks. Otherwise, it is recommended.
04-11-2007, 03:39 PM
#43
For those of you out there that have the under body kit and even better if you installed it yourself, I have a question. For the pics below, specifically the one of the back quarter panel, I've seen several cars where the add on piece doesn't come flush where the quarter panel and bumper meet. Is this due to installation error when you can see the line where the two panels meet or is this due to quality control with the kits? I'm going to have the dealership install the kit due to some warranty work and they were already warning me that there could be some gaps and based on Dartmans pics I know that this kit can be installed without gaps. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!!
Originally Posted by datmrman
04-12-2007, 01:30 AM
#44
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The rear skirt does not line up perfectly with where the rear bumper meets the quarter panel. From afar you can't tell, but up close, it is noticeable. I think its just like that.
As for minimizing gaps, I added extra double sided tape. See post #1 for details.
As for minimizing gaps, I added extra double sided tape. See post #1 for details.
04-12-2007, 12:53 PM
#45
Thanks for the feedback!! My point in attaching your old pic is I like how your car turned out by the rear panel because I can't see the seam where the quarter panel and bumper meet. I've seen differing results on many cars and I'm trying to determine is it user error or quality control related to the actual underbody kit.
Originally Posted by datmrman
The rear skirt does not line up perfectly with where the rear bumper meets the quarter panel. From afar you can't tell, but up close, it is noticeable. I think its just like that.
As for minimizing gaps, I added extra double sided tape. See post #1 for details.
As for minimizing gaps, I added extra double sided tape. See post #1 for details.
04-16-2007, 11:55 AM
#46
I would appreciate it if someone can provide some input on my question below. Thanks!!
Originally Posted by mpressive
Thanks for the feedback!! My point in attaching your old pic is I like how your car turned out by the rear panel because I can't see the seam where the quarter panel and bumper meet. I've seen differing results on many cars and I'm trying to determine is it user error or quality control related to the actual underbody kit.
04-16-2007, 12:27 PM
#47
wdp skyhawk
I acutally did not use the templates. Me and a friend held the kit up to the car and I drilled the holes. came out great. Just another way to do the install if they don' t send you the templates.
04-24-2007, 04:27 PM
#48
I'm in the DC/MD area and I'm going to have the dealership install my A-Spec kit this week. I would like to know from any DIYers in the DC area where they purchased the 3M Super Strength Molding Tape. I need this info. like yesterday so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
04-24-2007, 07:13 PM
#50
I checked online and I didn't pull anything back. I work in VA so if you know of a particular Home Depot that carries the tape let me know. Thanks!!
Originally Posted by SSMTL04
Do you have a Home DEpot near you ?? You can find it there
04-24-2007, 08:53 PM
#51
Instructor
Originally Posted by mpressive
I checked online and I didn't pull anything back. I work in VA so if you know of a particular Home Depot that carries the tape let me know. Thanks!!
05-03-2007, 07:52 AM
#52
Kaa - Ching !!!
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You can get a nice big roll of the tape from http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/........
I have this coming in soon:
3M Scotch-Mount Double-Coated Automotive Acrylic Foam Tape-4569 - 1/2" x 10 yards, .060" Thickness - 06397
SKU: 4569
Came to about $25.00 with shipping included.
I have this coming in soon:
3M Scotch-Mount Double-Coated Automotive Acrylic Foam Tape-4569 - 1/2" x 10 yards, .060" Thickness - 06397
SKU: 4569
Came to about $25.00 with shipping included.
05-03-2007, 08:49 AM
#53
Thanks for the replies!! I recently had the dealership install my body kit and for the most part I'm extremly pleased. I asked them did I need to pick up some extra tape for my install and they stated that as part of their normal procedures, they add extra tape to the known problem areas.
I had the job done at Pohanka Acura in Chantilly and James was the name of the tech who installed my kit. I believe that he's their best guy for this type of stuff because he laughed when I asked how long it normally takes to install a kit. Evidently, he was warned ahead of time how picky a customer I'd been and so he payed extra attention to detail on my install. He stated that it was the best one that he had done thus far.
I will add pics when I get the chance but I wanted to thank everyone here for their hand-holding throughout the process.
I had the job done at Pohanka Acura in Chantilly and James was the name of the tech who installed my kit. I believe that he's their best guy for this type of stuff because he laughed when I asked how long it normally takes to install a kit. Evidently, he was warned ahead of time how picky a customer I'd been and so he payed extra attention to detail on my install. He stated that it was the best one that he had done thus far.
I will add pics when I get the chance but I wanted to thank everyone here for their hand-holding throughout the process.
09-18-2007, 02:33 AM
#55
Safety Car
Thread Starter
but they will most likely charge you an arm and a leg for something you and a buddy can perform in a few hours.This was my very first body kit install ever. It's very doable.
01-10-2008, 03:39 PM
#57
Racer
hey, i installed my front and rear spoilers already, i was just wondering if when doing the sides you install the whole side at once with the two pieces connected together or the rear and then the front or vice versa.
01-10-2008, 03:42 PM
#58
Racer
Originally Posted by SteveP66
You can get a nice big roll of the tape from http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/........
I have this coming in soon:
3M Scotch-Mount Double-Coated Automotive Acrylic Foam Tape-4569 - 1/2" x 10 yards, .060" Thickness - 06397
SKU: 4569
Came to about $25.00 with shipping included.
I have this coming in soon:
3M Scotch-Mount Double-Coated Automotive Acrylic Foam Tape-4569 - 1/2" x 10 yards, .060" Thickness - 06397
SKU: 4569
Came to about $25.00 with shipping included.
so expensive. i bought mine at autozone for 8 bucks a roll. i bought two and only used like half of 1 and it is the same stuff.
03-14-2008, 01:39 AM
#59
Clueless About Car?!
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datmrman, what would be the closest drill bits measurement for the 12 mm cuz the instruction for the 08 TL-S is asking for 3mm,6mm,and 12mm instead of 10 mm
thank you!
thank you!
03-15-2008, 12:58 AM
#60
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I'm not sure, but here are some readings I get from my drilling kit:
3/8" -> 9.53 mm
1/2" -> 12.70 mm
Ideally you want something in between there... maybe a 7/16" or 13/32". My Skil drill bit kit has the mappings printed for me.
3/8" -> 9.53 mm
1/2" -> 12.70 mm
Ideally you want something in between there... maybe a 7/16" or 13/32". My Skil drill bit kit has the mappings printed for me.
04-21-2008, 10:47 AM
#61
Outta my way!!
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I installed bodykit over the weekend (2004 TL) taking into consideration all suggestions found here, thaks guys for sharing. Now is my time to share my observations.
1) When removing OEM side skirts and trying to release 1 front clip of front part of the skirt and 2 rear clips on rear part of the skirt, I basicaly broke off the clip retaining slots inside the skirts - these m-f-kers would not pop out! The clips stayed in the body of the car. they were also not easy to remove with clips removal tool.
After examining design of clip retainers and seeing that you need to slide the skirt instead of pulling it outward I wonder now if anyone was able to remove the skirts according to the manual which says just pull the skirt away from the car.
On the second side of the car, I simply slid the rear piece toward rear and then the front piece toward rear and I was done in seconds - the clips stayed on the car, but the skirt pieces were removed in tact.
2) The rear underspoiler had gaps after install only in two spots - were the bumper tapers off and goes at 45 degree angle toward the front of the car - directly under the rear lights. I think this happened after I added a little too much of 3M Super strength molding tape in thoese areas. I used double layer of that tape all over the rear underspoiler (except the straight rear portion mountes with screws) IN ADDITION to existing tape. The gaps are minimal in those areas now and uniform on both sides - about 1mm - and I filled them with clear automotive silicon (on silver car) - you can hardly notice them now. I actually caulked all around front and rear underspoilers just to be safe.
3) The front underspoiler just would not stick to the front bumber (it was 70 degrees F these days) - I had to remove all existing tape and add 3 times more tape keeping the same thickness of the tape all around (except the front area which seemed OK and had different tape from factory)
At the end - no gaps except where the front underspoilers meets with wheel well crease - the gap there is about 1.5mm wide and 2cm long - filede with silicon again.
There was nothing I can do about those since the size of rear underspoiler seems larger then my front bumber - design issue.
I simply think if they designe this car here in US then they should have designed/made the bodykit in the US also instead of making it in Japan?
Overall I am pleased with the way my install came out.
One question though - what is the reason for those 2 black plastic parts the are attached to the front bumper with two clips - see post 1 pic 2 in this thread - they do not seem to support or hold anything :dunno
1) When removing OEM side skirts and trying to release 1 front clip of front part of the skirt and 2 rear clips on rear part of the skirt, I basicaly broke off the clip retaining slots inside the skirts - these m-f-kers would not pop out! The clips stayed in the body of the car. they were also not easy to remove with clips removal tool.
After examining design of clip retainers and seeing that you need to slide the skirt instead of pulling it outward I wonder now if anyone was able to remove the skirts according to the manual which says just pull the skirt away from the car.
On the second side of the car, I simply slid the rear piece toward rear and then the front piece toward rear and I was done in seconds - the clips stayed on the car, but the skirt pieces were removed in tact.
2) The rear underspoiler had gaps after install only in two spots - were the bumper tapers off and goes at 45 degree angle toward the front of the car - directly under the rear lights. I think this happened after I added a little too much of 3M Super strength molding tape in thoese areas. I used double layer of that tape all over the rear underspoiler (except the straight rear portion mountes with screws) IN ADDITION to existing tape. The gaps are minimal in those areas now and uniform on both sides - about 1mm - and I filled them with clear automotive silicon (on silver car) - you can hardly notice them now. I actually caulked all around front and rear underspoilers just to be safe.
3) The front underspoiler just would not stick to the front bumber (it was 70 degrees F these days) - I had to remove all existing tape and add 3 times more tape keeping the same thickness of the tape all around (except the front area which seemed OK and had different tape from factory)
At the end - no gaps except where the front underspoilers meets with wheel well crease - the gap there is about 1.5mm wide and 2cm long - filede with silicon again.
There was nothing I can do about those since the size of rear underspoiler seems larger then my front bumber - design issue.
I simply think if they designe this car here in US then they should have designed/made the bodykit in the US also instead of making it in Japan?
Overall I am pleased with the way my install came out.
One question though - what is the reason for those 2 black plastic parts the are attached to the front bumper with two clips - see post 1 pic 2 in this thread - they do not seem to support or hold anything :dunno
05-21-2008, 12:13 AM
#62
Originally Posted by vash68
I installed bodykit over the weekend (2004 TL) taking into consideration all suggestions found here, thaks guys for sharing. Now is my time to share my observations.
1) When removing OEM side skirts and trying to release 1 front clip of front part of the skirt and 2 rear clips on rear part of the skirt, I basicaly broke off the clip retaining slots inside the skirts - these m-f-kers would not pop out! The clips stayed in the body of the car. they were also not easy to remove with clips removal tool.
After examining design of clip retainers and seeing that you need to slide the skirt instead of pulling it outward I wonder now if anyone was able to remove the skirts according to the manual which says just pull the skirt away from the car.
On the second side of the car, I simply slid the rear piece toward rear and then the front piece toward rear and I was done in seconds - the clips stayed on the car, but the skirt pieces were removed in tact.
2) The rear underspoiler had gaps after install only in two spots - were the bumper tapers off and goes at 45 degree angle toward the front of the car - directly under the rear lights. I think this happened after I added a little too much of 3M Super strength molding tape in thoese areas. I used double layer of that tape all over the rear underspoiler (except the straight rear portion mountes with screws) IN ADDITION to existing tape. The gaps are minimal in those areas now and uniform on both sides - about 1mm - and I filled them with clear automotive silicon (on silver car) - you can hardly notice them now. I actually caulked all around front and rear underspoilers just to be safe.
3) The front underspoiler just would not stick to the front bumber (it was 70 degrees F these days) - I had to remove all existing tape and add 3 times more tape keeping the same thickness of the tape all around (except the front area which seemed OK and had different tape from factory)
At the end - no gaps except where the front underspoilers meets with wheel well crease - the gap there is about 1.5mm wide and 2cm long - filede with silicon again.
There was nothing I can do about those since the size of rear underspoiler seems larger then my front bumber - design issue.
I simply think if they designe this car here in US then they should have designed/made the bodykit in the US also instead of making it in Japan?
Overall I am pleased with the way my install came out.
One question though - what is the reason for those 2 black plastic parts the are attached to the front bumper with two clips - see post 1 pic 2 in this thread - they do not seem to support or hold anything :dunno
1) When removing OEM side skirts and trying to release 1 front clip of front part of the skirt and 2 rear clips on rear part of the skirt, I basicaly broke off the clip retaining slots inside the skirts - these m-f-kers would not pop out! The clips stayed in the body of the car. they were also not easy to remove with clips removal tool.
After examining design of clip retainers and seeing that you need to slide the skirt instead of pulling it outward I wonder now if anyone was able to remove the skirts according to the manual which says just pull the skirt away from the car.
On the second side of the car, I simply slid the rear piece toward rear and then the front piece toward rear and I was done in seconds - the clips stayed on the car, but the skirt pieces were removed in tact.
2) The rear underspoiler had gaps after install only in two spots - were the bumper tapers off and goes at 45 degree angle toward the front of the car - directly under the rear lights. I think this happened after I added a little too much of 3M Super strength molding tape in thoese areas. I used double layer of that tape all over the rear underspoiler (except the straight rear portion mountes with screws) IN ADDITION to existing tape. The gaps are minimal in those areas now and uniform on both sides - about 1mm - and I filled them with clear automotive silicon (on silver car) - you can hardly notice them now. I actually caulked all around front and rear underspoilers just to be safe.
3) The front underspoiler just would not stick to the front bumber (it was 70 degrees F these days) - I had to remove all existing tape and add 3 times more tape keeping the same thickness of the tape all around (except the front area which seemed OK and had different tape from factory)
At the end - no gaps except where the front underspoilers meets with wheel well crease - the gap there is about 1.5mm wide and 2cm long - filede with silicon again.
There was nothing I can do about those since the size of rear underspoiler seems larger then my front bumber - design issue.
I simply think if they designe this car here in US then they should have designed/made the bodykit in the US also instead of making it in Japan?
Overall I am pleased with the way my install came out.
One question though - what is the reason for those 2 black plastic parts the are attached to the front bumper with two clips - see post 1 pic 2 in this thread - they do not seem to support or hold anything :dunno
to answer ur question about those black pieces.. i think they are there to protect the stock bumper from the sideskirt.. so in case you ever want to take the skirt off? otherwise i see no reason for it..
.
11-08-2009, 07:10 PM
#73
06 WDP/Ebony MT NAV ASPEC
Hey guys i have installed my front and sides and when i get a chance am going to tackle the rear. Can someone tell me what i am drilling in step 8, It looks like and says the spoiler but i dont see the reason for this hole, unless it is to get at the screw in behind later ? Also if it is in the spoiler why didnt they pre drill it from the factory ?
11-08-2009, 09:56 PM
#74
Hey guys i have installed my front and sides and when i get a chance am going to tackle the rear. Can someone tell me what i am drilling in step 8, It looks like and says the spoiler but i dont see the reason for this hole, unless it is to get at the screw in behind later ? Also if it is in the spoiler why didnt they pre drill it from the factory ?
11-08-2009, 11:46 PM
#75
06 WDP/Ebony MT NAV ASPEC
Thanks for the reply but i dont see a reference to that hole later on in the instructions ? And i dont think it is the bumper thats being drilled because at that point in the instructions the lip is on the bumper and the instructions in step 8 say:
"Start with a 3 mm drill bit and finish with a
10 mm drill bit. Take care not to damage the
bracket and self-tapping screw behind the rear
under spoiler when drilling."
"Start with a 3 mm drill bit and finish with a
10 mm drill bit. Take care not to damage the
bracket and self-tapping screw behind the rear
under spoiler when drilling."
11-09-2009, 05:45 AM
#76
Thanks for the reply but i dont see a reference to that hole later on in the instructions ? And i dont think it is the bumper thats being drilled because at that point in the instructions the lip is on the bumper and the instructions in step 8 say:
"Start with a 3 mm drill bit and finish with a
10 mm drill bit. Take care not to damage the
bracket and self-tapping screw behind the rear
under spoiler when drilling."
"Start with a 3 mm drill bit and finish with a
10 mm drill bit. Take care not to damage the
bracket and self-tapping screw behind the rear
under spoiler when drilling."
11-09-2009, 10:08 AM
#77
06 WDP/Ebony MT NAV ASPEC
Those holes are obvious, the hole i am talking about is around the side near the wheel and is a 10mm hole.
11-09-2009, 10:12 AM
#78
I think when I installed it there was an extra hole on the lip that was never used as a mounting point. I think it was put there so that you could get to the bracket more easily. Other than that it really doesn't serve much of a purpose.
