Guys and Gals,

I've searched with no luck. Is there a thread or place where I can get the exact Do It Yourself instructions for the new TL oil change?

In other words,

"What torque settings for the oil pan?"
"What toos will I need exactly?" (ie. What size wrenches, etc.)

I just want to make sure I have all the parts and tools before I start.

 

Acura is pretty good about standardizing the tools used for assembly/maintenance. If you have the following size open end wrench and sockets you can take apart about 90% of everything on your car:
10, 12, 14, 17 mm

For an oil change.

Loosen lug nuts on Right front wheel
Jack up and support front end of car on jack stands
Remove right front wheel
Loosen Oil Pan drain plug
Position oil collection pan under drain
remove oil drain plug
replace copper sealing washer on drain plug
Once all oil has drained, replace drain plug
position oil collection pan under oil filter
unscrew oil filter
allow oil filter to drain into collection pan
Lubricate rubber gasket on new oil filter base with NEW oil
Wipe clean oil filter sealing surface (on car)
Install oil filter and tighten BY HAND 3/4-1 turn after gasket contacts sealing surface
Open hood
remove oil fill cap
pour in oil
reinstall wheel
lower car to ground
torque lug nuts to 80 lbf-ft
start engine and ensure oil light turns off
inspect underside of vehicle for leaks

*poof* you're done!

 

THANKS Silver!

I have ramps and change my 911's oil all the time. It's fairly complex for an oil change, so I wanted to make sure I was ready for the TL's as well even though I suspected the TL's is very simple.

 

I changed my oil last night. I used a great tip from RoadRage when removing the filter. Use a ZipLock bag over the filter as you unscrew the filter. The bag will catch all the oil instead of dripping all over the suspension.

 

That's a good tip...never really stopped to think about it

 

Here's a link to a previous thread which includes Road Rage's complete oil change instructions. I followed them the first time I changed the oil in my TL and they worked perfectly.

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/i-think-im-getting-blackmailed-smitty-112244/

-phil

 

Use a quality set of ramps or make your own out of 2x10's (I did this because they don't scoot when you try to drive up on them like Rhino ramps tend to do).

Drive the car around the block to warm up the oil (don't get it too hot).

Drive the car up on your ramps. You do NOT need to remove the front right wheel for this job. All components and easily accessable when car in on ramps.

Put a tarp or canvas covering under the front part of the car.

Position your drain pan (use a large one) under the oil pan.

Remove the oil fill cap on the engine.

Remove the drain plug using a 10mm socket or wrench.

Let the oil drain to a slow drip.

Re-install the drain plug with a new washer (te washer is aluminum, not copper) and torque to 29 ft/lbs (or 360 in/lbs).

Spread a thin coat of fresh oil on the new filter's gasket.

Loosen the old filter with a filter wrench just enough so that you can remove it the remainder of the way by hand.

Place your 1-gallon ZipLock bag completely over the old filter and up its contact point with the pickup arm.

Remove the filter and let it fall gently into the ZipLock bag along with the trapped oil.

Remove the bag, drain off the oil into your drain pan and seal up the ZipLock bag for trash.

Wipe the mating surface of the pickup arm with a paper towel.

Thread the new filter onto the nipple and spin it down until it makes contact, then tighten another 3/4's of a turn.

Check your work.. make sure you have the filter in place and the drain plug in the pan.

Using a funnel in the fill hole, pour 4.5 quarts of new oil into the engine.

Re-install the fill cap.

Start the engine, wait 10 seconds, then rev it up to 2500 RPM for 5- 10 seconds.

Turn off the engine, crawl back under the car, and check the drain plug and especially the new filter for any leaks.

Record the date, type of oil and filter, and miles in your log book, drive down off of the ramps and you're done.


I should note that changing the oil on the TL is a VERY simple and quite clean job. Using the 1-gallon ZipLock bag virtually eliminates the oily mess common to many cars when changing their oil. I should also note the torque wrench. I now have three. My first two would not clear the driveway enough to use for proper torquing of the drain plug. They are measured in ft/lbs. So I bought a shorter torque wrench that's measured in in/lbs, and it clears and works beautifully. One other thing. Use a quality oil filter and oil. Don't go cheap here.

 

One other thing. When you remove the old filter, make sure its gasket is with the filter and not seated on the oil pickup. If it is and you don't remove it, your seal will fail and you'll lose oil and oil pressure.

 

I just used a small floor jack to jack one side of the car up, put a
big piece of cardboard under the car, removed the drain plug using an 11/16 wrench I think it was (none of the handy metric ones fit tight), drain the hot oil into the pan,
remove the filter, yes oil pours out all over, no big deal with a bigger pan,
I fill the new filter with oil, then screw it on hand tight.
Replace drain plug, using the same wrench I used to remove it,
wipe everything down with a rag, then remove the jackstand (safety)
lower the car and fill the engine with 4 quarts of havoline 5w20,
then top up till its at the top of the dip stick marks.
I then start the engine and check for leaks.
After the next drive I check for leaks again, and check the oil level.

The entire process took me about 20 minutes for a long oil drain...

Brett

 

Southernboy, are you sure about that? I just changed my oil this last weekend and my drain plug uses a 17mm socket. And to be sure I wasn't mistaken, I just double checked it, definitely 17mm.

 

I did mine last weekend and it is definitely 17 mm

 

Oops.. big mistake on my part. Thanks gentlemen for your catch there. You are so right and I was so wrong.

 

i made a DIY with the oil extractor. which i highly reccomand since you don't have to get under the car

http://users.adelphia.net/~sthung/oil_change.htm